Geek.Terry- What language was that in post 521?
On a little truck I had once, I drove over some white powder that had been spilled on the roadway. Most went over it's underside but only a bit on the paint. When I got home I gave the paint a quick rinse off and it wasn't till a few days later I washed underneath. I have never seen metal so devoid of dirt and grease, especially the back axle.View attachment 114548
Over weathered?
Louis, I shot my own photo of that F-unit at Riverside in August of 1972. According to Bob Withers in his book C&O/B&O in Color, it was scrapped later that year. B&O never had any intention of repainting any of their F units in the Chessie scheme and only ran them when they were short on newer power.View attachment 114548
Over weathered?
Use the oven cleaner!'Evening Shop Dwellers. Cool and humid where I'm at, but the rain predicted by the NWS never materialized. Tree frogs are croaking a symphony.
Thanks everyone for all the "likes" and replies to my previous post.
Louis, I shot my own photo of that F-unit at Riverside in August of 1972. According to Bob Withers in his book C&O/B&O in Color, it was scrapped later that year. B&O never had any intention of repainting any of their F units in the Chessie scheme and only ran them when they were short on newer power.
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An update on the body shell soaking experiment: The shells didn't dissolve after being submerged in denatured alcohol for 24 hrs, which is good; but neither did the paint, though I did manage to scrub a lot more of it off with the toothbrush. I'm thinking this is like an inverse of the concept of applying slow-drying paint in multiple coats; I'll need to soak the shells overnight once again and hopefully the paint will continue to soften enough so that I can scrub more of it off.
I'm beginning to suspect that these units weren't painted at the Atlas factory, but by a third party affiliated with fans of the Louisville and Indiana shortline who may have sold these models as a fundraising effort. They were advertised on eBay as a "special run" and the paint scheme is not listed in the online Atlas catalog; at least that's my theory about why the paint seems to have been applied thicker than normal.
Greetings, Shop Dwellers! Looks like my area is in for several days of rain and t-storms. If the forecast actually comes to pass, I'll have an automatic excuse to avoid mowing the lawn - what an excellent Fathers Day gift from Ma Nature
Thanks, everybody who "liked" my long-winded post from Monday even without photos!
Joe, best of luck with all the prep for the knee surgery.
B.Bob, glad to see your finally able to retrieve the rest of your Illinois stuff.
Garry, enjoyed seeing the pics you shot when you were a kid! I have a box full of slides I shot using a hand-me-down Voigtlander 35mm camera that my father gave me; someday I'll have to get them all "digitized" like I did with some of my B&O motive power pics, so I can share them here.
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Looks like I'm moving on to Plan C of getting the factory paint off my two recently-acquired Atlas geeps; the guy who was gonna do the sandblasting won't be available to do that until sometime next week, and this project has already been delayed far too long. So I've decided to try once again to soak the shells in denatured alcohol (DNA), but for a significantly longer period this time, 24 hours [as opposed to 2 hours which I did for the original soak]. Does anybody here know how long the plastic of an Atlas "Master" or "Silver" series shell can survive in DNA before getting brittle or deformed? All the google searches I've done on this topic seem to give conflicting advice.
So far I've learned that soaking for only a few hours makes the paint a little bit "mushy" on the surface, where the only way to get it off is to scrub it really hard with a shortened-bristle toothbrush. Only the the stuff directly under the toothbrush comes off - this makes it difficult to remove paint from areas where two perpendicular surfaces are joined [like around the radiator fans]. My hope is that letting the paint soak for a much longer time will soften ALL of the paint more thoroughly so I won't have to press down as hard with the toothbrush to get it all off. I've already broken off a few lift rings as a result of brushing too vigorously.
No it wasn't a waste, I needed to know what that one looked like for future reference. If nothing else, it was an extra primer coat. It will work for newer concrete, just not there.Sorry, Willie ... you wasted your time with the sidewalk paint - ouch! That's one needs a do-over.