All is well in the world!
SRIRACHA chili sauce is back on the grocery shelves!
Love my Sriracha .....
SRIRACHA chili sauce is back on the grocery shelves!
Love my Sriracha .....
I've used the Iwata brand compressors for years. Their tankless Smart Jet is a great unit and does not have any issues with pulsing. It seems they licked that issue somehow. The drawback is they aren't cheap, at the $250 US range. The good news is they are lightweight and quiet, and the Smart feature turns it off when you aren't spraying. I would still have mine but at a show we ran out of them, and my partner sold mine as used when I was out of the booth. I get a better unit out of that deal, so I wasn't PO'd but that goes to show the demand we had for them.Unfortunately I have, but I don't have the space for a tank compressor, even a small 2.5Ltr one.
Or reading their obits! Makes you a little paranoid!Many condolences to your family. She is joining Mom. Personally I always hated going to funerals of people younger than me.
Sorry for your loss Louis! I think the hardest part of getting old isn't the aches, the pains, the lack of youthful energy, or even the serious diseases some of us have to deal with. It's watching friends and loved ones fall away one by one. Been dealing with that myself this past year, much more frequently than I'd like.Thank you Everybody for your kind words.
My wonderful sister passed away peacefully at 3:15pm.
Glad they enjoyed Maui. Terry, my sister and a few of their friends are on Maui till Saturday. They are at Wailea-Makena on the southwest side of the Island. The whole island is gorgeous but as I have written before, for me there is not enough to do. I no longer want to play golf everyday or ride horses a few days a week.WELL, looks as if the rainey will hold off long enough for the ROSE PARADE and maybe the ROSE BOWL today.
We are 100 miles from the festivities and the weather there can be much different from locally.
Speaking of weather, we had a few more "drizzles" and even a few brief periods of bright sunshine; expecting 58f high with partly sunny today. More chances of rain Wed and Thur is in the forecast.
The Newport family returned from their week on Maui and the two G-sons (age 15 and 13) were ecstatic.
It was their first time to the Islands and both of them have been in the life-guard program for a couple of years in Newport -- they had a blast surfing -- too bad they did not visit the North Shore of Oahu where the really big waves come in. I have a feeling that they may want to go back?
OK .. I've jabbered long enough about much of nothing.
Have a great start to the New Year!
As Troy would say, wording the words.Good Morning All!
34F @93% - no snow yet.
Survived the weekend - suspected that I would as it has been *years* since we have been out on New Years; 4th of July also for that matter. I did get out yesterday to watch the Sea game. I kinda thought that it would have been a better game as both were 7 n 8. Guess that the Jets just didn't come to play.
Soldering: I have been doing that since I was 12Yo - 58 years. It is an art. The 3 most important things for a good solder connection are:
1. Clean
2. Clean
3. Clean
Soldering iron tip, and material to be connected; wire, brass, copper ... etc need to be shiny and free of debris. For anything electronic - rosin core solder; period. The smaller the item is to solder the less heat you need. In other words, you would not use a 1000W honker iron for soldering 23Ga wire onto something. Soldering silver is more art to the art. Gold is a whole new ball game. they both need way less heat than electronic stuff and a specialized solder that is usually 96%/4% tin/silver for silver, Gold has a pretty unique way - Google it.
For electronic stuff: Do not use anything abrasive on your tip. Do not use a wet sponge to clean the tip. Stick the tip into your small bucket of rosin flux for an instant, pull it out and it will be shiny shiny shiny. If needed, anchor the receiving material to be soldered somehow. In the case of a rail joiner, slide it on a piece of rail, turn it over so you have access to the bottom. Now touch the joiner with the iron to start the heat process, then after a second or two, touch the solder on the wire AND the joiner at the same time and watch the solder flow into the joint. Only takes another second or two to complete the process. If ya did it right, the joint will be shiny with both the wire and joiner mechanically connected with no gap. If the solder has a dull look, won't work. You did not clean stuff good enough. If the solder has bumps or divots, not enough heat or time. Besides shiny solder, the next important thing is that mechanical connection. You do not want a blob of solder between the two materials as solder is not very strong by itself. Once bonded good mechanically, you should not have any problems with it for years.
Oh, and if you have access to a solder pot, use it. I got one about 5 years ago and when ima doing wiring, I dip the wire in about 1/4"; after the insulation is removed; of course. Makes the bonding process faster.
Note that the temp controller irons are pretty much eye candy. If you have to 'turn the temp up' more than 5 to 10 degrees; get smaller solder. If turning it down more than 5 to 10 degrees, get bigger solder and possibly a smaller tip. Temp depends on the solder mix and if your temp is too high, you will blast the pcb pads off if soldering that type - then where will you be?
Galvanized metal ( think Suydam kits ) requires acid core solder and acid flux. Usually this takes a little longer as you probably are having to heat a bigger area - which takes a higher wattage iron. Same process as above - clean first, solder later. Again the bond can not have a blob of solder between the two materials. If so, try, try again.
Tip geometry makes a difference. A round sharp point is good for that really tiny stuff, a little bigger for the example above with the joiner as the round tip will contact BOTH the wire and material, where a chisel tip is good if you need to get under a device and hit that ground plain that is almost impossible to solder. The bigger your material, the bigger the chisel area can be and the more time to heat.
Irons: my go to favorite is still a Weller pencil iron. They are worth the cost. The latest and greatest from China will work for awhile, but pretty much like anything else from China ... expect something to go sideways sooner or later. I do have a cheapie from China and have given it a go. Works as advertised; although Ima waiting for the other shoe to drop.
Last is hot air. For y'all that are dealing with surface mount chips you will find this is the way to go.
If you are populating a new pcb, you will be using solder paste which contains flux and solder powder ( 60/40 solder ). Once you get the idea, pretty easy. You paint the solder paste across the PCB pads that are clean and shiny for the device, place the device trying to align the pads with the feet, then put in a 130 - 150 degree oven. This does not take long - 20 to 30 seconds and you can see the device align perfectly with the pads. Done deal. If you have had too much coffee and are slightly shaking - put this off for later. It does not take much for those devices sitting on solder paste to move about. If you bump ( or drop ) the pcb in the over, clean it all off and start over.
If you don't have access to the board to put it in an oven, hot air time. Hot air machines have nozzles that are sized to the device you wish to do. If removing a device that lost it's smoke, aim the air gun at the device as close as you can get it because you do not want to spill that heat over into the device's neighbor. You will see change in the color of the solder and can pull it off the board. When replacing: paint paste on the CLEAN pads, then align the device as close as you can, then heat it with the air gun. Be careful here as if there is too high a volume of air, you will be searching for the device. Again, you can see the solder change color and flow proper.
You can also use a Butane torch in a pinch - just remember that it is way hotter than your iron and you can destroy stuff pretty fast.
Whew - wrote a book!
Later
Last is hot air. For y'all that are dealing with surface mount chips you will find this is the way to go.
If you are populating a new pcb, you will be using solder paste which contains flux and solder powder ( 60/40 solder ). Once you get the idea, pretty easy. You paint the solder paste across the PCB pads that are clean and shiny for the device, place the device trying to align the pads with the feet, then put in a 130 - 150 degree oven. This does not take long - 20 to 30 seconds and you can see the device align perfectly with the pads. Done deal. If you have had too much coffee and are slightly shaking - put this off for later. It does not take much for those devices sitting on solder paste to move about. If you bump ( or drop ) the pcb in the over, clean it all off and start over.
If you don't have access to the board to put it in an oven, hot air time. Hot air machines have nozzles that are sized to the device you wish to do. If removing a device that lost it's smoke, aim the air gun at the device as close as you can get it because you do not want to spill that heat over into the device's neighbor. You will see change in the color of the solder and can pull it off the board. When replacing: paint paste on the CLEAN pads, then align the device as close as you can, then heat it with the air gun. Be careful here as if there is too high a volume of air, you will be searching for the device. Again, you can see the solder change color and flow proper.
And I forgot a couple of things - ima old and allowed to forget sh.t right?Good Morning All!
34F @93% - no snow yet.
Survived the weekend - suspected that I would as it has been *years* since we have been out on New Years; 4th of July also for that matter. I did get out yesterday to watch the Sea game. I kinda thought that it would have been a better game as both were 7 n 8. Guess that the Jets just didn't come to play.
Soldering: I have been doing that since I was 12Yo - 58 years. It is an art. The 3 most important things for a good solder connection are:
1. Clean
2. Clean
3. Clean
Soldering iron tip, and material to be connected; wire, brass, copper ... etc need to be shiny and free of debris. For anything electronic - rosin core solder; period. The smaller the item is to solder the less heat you need. In other words, you would not use a 1000W honker iron for soldering 23Ga wire onto something. Soldering silver is more art to the art. Gold is a whole new ball game. they both need way less heat than electronic stuff and a specialized solder that is usually 96%/4% tin/silver for silver, Gold has a pretty unique way - Google it.
For electronic stuff: Do not use anything abrasive on your tip. Do not use a wet sponge to clean the tip. Stick the tip into your small bucket of rosin flux for an instant, pull it out and it will be shiny shiny shiny. If needed, anchor the receiving material to be soldered somehow. In the case of a rail joiner, slide it on a piece of rail, turn it over so you have access to the bottom. Now touch the joiner with the iron to start the heat process, then after a second or two, touch the solder on the wire AND the joiner at the same time and watch the solder flow into the joint. Only takes another second or two to complete the process. If ya did it right, the joint will be shiny with both the wire and joiner mechanically connected with no gap. If the solder has a dull look, won't work. You did not clean stuff good enough. If the solder has bumps or divots, not enough heat or time. Besides shiny solder, the next important thing is that mechanical connection. You do not want a blob of solder between the two materials as solder is not very strong by itself. Once bonded good mechanically, you should not have any problems with it for years.
Oh, and if you have access to a solder pot, use it. I got one about 5 years ago and when ima doing wiring, I dip the wire in about 1/4"; after the insulation is removed; of course. Makes the bonding process faster.
Note that the temp controller irons are pretty much eye candy. If you have to 'turn the temp up' more than 5 to 10 degrees; get smaller solder. If turning it down more than 5 to 10 degrees, get bigger solder and possibly a smaller tip. Temp depends on the solder mix and if your temp is too high, you will blast the pcb pads off if soldering that type - then where will you be?
Galvanized metal ( think Suydam kits ) requires acid core solder and acid flux. Usually this takes a little longer as you probably are having to heat a bigger area - which takes a higher wattage iron. Same process as above - clean first, solder later. Again the bond can not have a blob of solder between the two materials. If so, try, try again.
Tip geometry makes a difference. A round sharp point is good for that really tiny stuff, a little bigger for the example above with the joiner as the round tip will contact BOTH the wire and material, where a chisel tip is good if you need to get under a device and hit that ground plain that is almost impossible to solder. The bigger your material, the bigger the chisel area can be and the more time to heat.
Irons: my go to favorite is still a Weller pencil iron. They are worth the cost. The latest and greatest from China will work for awhile, but pretty much like anything else from China ... expect something to go sideways sooner or later. I do have a cheapie from China and have given it a go. Works as advertised; although Ima waiting for the other shoe to drop.
Last is hot air. For y'all that are dealing with surface mount chips you will find this is the way to go.
If you are populating a new pcb, you will be using solder paste which contains flux and solder powder ( 60/40 solder ). Once you get the idea, pretty easy. You paint the solder paste across the PCB pads that are clean and shiny for the device, place the device trying to align the pads with the feet, then put in a 130 - 150 degree oven. This does not take long - 20 to 30 seconds and you can see the device align perfectly with the pads. Done deal. If you have had too much coffee and are slightly shaking - put this off for later. It does not take much for those devices sitting on solder paste to move about. If you bump ( or drop ) the pcb in the over, clean it all off and start over.
If you don't have access to the board to put it in an oven, hot air time. Hot air machines have nozzles that are sized to the device you wish to do. If removing a device that lost it's smoke, aim the air gun at the device as close as you can get it because you do not want to spill that heat over into the device's neighbor. You will see change in the color of the solder and can pull it off the board. When replacing: paint paste on the CLEAN pads, then align the device as close as you can, then heat it with the air gun. Be careful here as if there is too high a volume of air, you will be searching for the device. Again, you can see the solder change color and flow proper.
You can also use a Butane torch in a pinch - just remember that it is way hotter than your iron and you can destroy stuff pretty fast.
Whew - wrote a book!
Later
Hello Happy Members !
because I will never be able to build a large H0 scale layout (mostly for the lack of space), I'm thinking about going to N scale. But I know absolutely nothing about N scale. So, is a good or a bad idea? All your comments and advice will be greatly appreciated.
I think I'm a bit old for this scale. I will surely need XXL glasses.Christian - interesting thoughts on the N scale, just last night I thought about putting a N scale layout under my HO layout, since that one is high and I have lots of room down there.
I like that philosophy, hope that you don't mind if I repeat it.No resolutions for me to break. I am just going to try to be better then the day before. Some days I succeed, some days I fail but I move on…
It's the Texas way of doing things. Texas Chain Saw Massacre as Curt pointed out.Willie: Are you really going to kill that poor bird with a chainsaw ?
I do HO and still need XXL glasses - well, an Optivisor at least. Splurged and bought 4 of the things so I don't have to search for them. No way I could deal with N nowadays.I think I'm a bit old for this scale. I will surely need XXL glasses.
It's the Texas way of doing things. Texas Chain Saw Massacre as Curt pointed out.