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The wire coils we used to get had a heavy oil film on them. While there was occasional rust spots on the wire it basically was a surface rust and came off during the straightening and cutoff process. If any was left it definitely came off during the dip tank cleaning before the plating process.
Obviously not!
Have a lot of yard work to do, but little desire to do so. Right now, I'm waiting on a notification that my Rx is ready for pick-up. Have a few groceries to buy, and don't want to make two trips...
If it was the large steel rolls say 5-24 ton, used directly in something like car production then yes, they have to be covered. Coils that have still to go through some sort of manufacturing process that requires either extruding, heating or rolling don't.
It's a really long story. Initially in 1980, the original homeowner made a serious mistake. My acreage is 14.59 acres, but he had to split it so that there was one acre free and clear to build the home on. He intended for that acre to be 104' x 416', but a misunderstanding between him and the seller resulted in a square acre of 208' x 208' being sold and the deed approved by the county. Before the builder pointed it out to him, he had the septic tanks, 2-500 gallon tanks, installed downhill from where he intended the home to be. Builder couldn't build without some time consuming legal processes, which would have delayed the builder, and the home buyer was against a deadline to move from his former home. As a result, the septic tanks are 150' from the actual toilet location, and the sewer line was flat with a small rise at the end. He got very frustrated with that and some other situations that he got himself into (not related to the house), and moved out nine months later. I wasn't aware of the sewer problem until about 3 months later. By then, I had paid off his part of the equity and he disappeared without a forwarding address. Moving the tanks was cost prohibitive at the time (which he already had known), so I redid the entire sewer line with more drop, and also lowering the point of entry into the tank by 7". Fortunately I had only partially installed the lateral lines at the time, so I left them in place and made a new exit 7" lower and went from there. Well, 150' is still too much; it worked for over 35 years and raising a family, but then we remodeled both bathrooms with "low-volume toilets". Gone went the "whoosh" when they were flushed and stuff began to settle in place. Despite using my "hydro-jet" about every two months, it just succeeded in jamming everything in the far end where there is an elbow going to the tanks. Water mostly seeped through so we didn't notice, but eventually that stopped. From the clean-out to the tank is still 115', but even Roto-Rooter only has a 100' snake. The solution was to dig up part of the line and install another clean-out about halfway between the original one and the tank. Lots of peanut butter-colored material is now spread out and fertilizing a nearby tree and the yard. The end result is that the line can be accessed more readily and should make maintenance much easier.
Washed and Varnished when last in the shop?
Sorry about the truck, but the train pic looks great !
George, how did you attach them to the walls ?
Thanks to Sirfordalot, Santafewillie, James, PRR Modeler and Gary for you comments. Gary and Santafewille asked how I attached the framing to the shed wall. I didn't. I was going to but then after seeing how strong it was on it's own I didn't have to. Sirfordalot commented he did about the same amount of work on a roof 40 years ago. So did I but I'm 76 now. Be prepared to lay down a lot of trapping. Cotton trapping so you don't slip and fall off the roof. When you use a chipping gun to remove the old brick work the old mortar fly's everywhere. It has to be cleaned up otherwise it will stain the roof when it rains. I formed out a drip edge under the cap. It should help keep the rainwater from the top edge of the brickwork. That's why the old brick work started cracking rainwater getting under the cap. I did most of the work myself except for the mason. If I had a chimney company come in with their fork lift's it would have cost me $5,000.00 I paid $300,00 for the mason $200.00 for the brick and mortar. I posted a photo of chimney cap and shed below. George
As with so many things, I forgot about the electrical contact.
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