New Layout, Suggestions Needed


Topherisme said:
I have decided to use single pole light switches for power to tracks on/off. Can buy a cheap 15 amp switch for $1.40, can’t find a toggle switch for much less than $3, good or bad option? I want each block with its own power to trace a short easier, make sense?

Just found light switches for under a buck, be a sizable savings if you guys think they will work…
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They will work just take up more room then a toggle sw How many are you going to need ?
One other thing no on off light so you can tell which ones on or off
I had a bunch of the older type toggles somewhere Just the basement is such a mess right now I know I have some smaller ones in the workshop room

Also are you still thinking about the caboose ind for your switches how many
 
MikeGTW said:
They will work just take up more room then a toggle sw How many are you going to need ?
One other thing no on off light so you can tell which ones on or off
I had a bunch of the older type toggles somewhere Just the basement is such a mess right now I know I have some smaller ones in the workshop room

Also are you still thinking about the caboose ind for your switches how many
Click to expand...
Thought about the space they might take, only need to expose the switch itself so nothing dramatic to look at, inner layout I will cover with vinyl. If I keep them low on the fascia think it will work out all right. On is always up, as long as I label correctly no biggie. Not totally sure about amount of turnout switches yet, did order a dozen this morning…. Oh, and my cork roadbed arrived this afternoon. Busy soldering power feeds now, fun fun
 
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MikeGTW said:
They will work just take up more room then a toggle sw How many are you going to need ?
One other thing no on off light so you can tell which ones on or off
I had a bunch of the older type toggles somewhere Just the basement is such a mess right now I know I have some smaller ones in the workshop room

Also are you still thinking about the caboose ind for your switches how many
Click to expand...
True, however there is a lighted switch which is illuminated when on and not when off.

I went with toggle switches mainly because of the small size. Up is off and down is on, that is how they are all wired so easy peasy which one is on.

Dave LASM
 
Dave I was going to mention those but more money I think And same for me used toggles and some rotary switches
I probably will never use them again no more layout So much will just go in the trash
 

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Not sure without close up visual. The big mistake with 'cookie cutter" elevations is the angle of the slope is never figured in, so the only remedy in the long run is vertical retaining walls. Wad up some newspapers and stuff them between the elevations. Dress and fluff the newspaper mock up to your desired grassy slope or rocky cliff faces and get a feel for how far that scenery will encroach into your track work. It's scary how much geography gets taken up "real looking scenery."
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Just caught up with this thread, and yes, Rico posted exactly what I have done over the years. I drill a hole, I think .042" in the end of the cut-off throw bar and just insert the post on the Caboose Industries ground throw through it. And yes also, I use the track nails to limit the distance that the lever can go, but more because it is hard to operate when it is all of the way down.
This is early in construction. I paint the nails either red or green so I can see which way the switch is thrown on the upper eye level deck. I also paint the levers as well, which works better on the lower level besides the nails.
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santafewillie said:
Just caught up with this thread, and yes, Rico posted exactly what I have done over the years. I drill a hole, I think .042" in the end of the cut-off throw bar and just insert the post on the Caboose Industries ground throw through it. And yes also, I use the track nails to limit the distance that the lever can go, but more because it is hard to operate when it is all of the way down.
This is early in construction. I paint the nails either red or green so I can see which way the switch is thrown on the upper eye level deck. I also paint the levers as well, which works better on the lower level besides the nails.
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Mr. Willie, need you to pay better attention bud, gotta stop me before I really screw up!!! lol jk Appreciate the reply, put it to use 😉
 
Topherisme said:
Thought about the space they might take, only need to expose the switch itself so nothing dramatic to look at, inner layout I will cover with vinyl. If I keep them low on the fascia think it will work out all right. On is always up, as long as I label correctly no biggie. Not totally sure about amount of switches yet, did order a dozen this morning…. Oh, and my cork roadbed arrived this afternoon. Busy soldering power feeds now, fun fun
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Topherisme said:
The helix looks good, trains have any trouble with the ascent? What is the radius?
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Never had a problem with them had two about the same size I think the radius was about 30 in maybe more Both have been taken down so I can't really check now
 
Willie
I used finger nail polish on my caboose ind It's a little bit brighter got mine at the dollar store girl that helped me pick them asked if she could put them on ummm no maybe and yes the nails for a stop
 
My dilemma: double track bridge is 2 1/4” center track spacing, I have 4 plate girder bridges I want on either end, but would be 2 5/8 track spacing. What’s my best method to cut one side of each bridge off to make one double track plate girder bridge? Would give me the 2 1/4” I need. Or is there another approach I should be considering?
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I cut the centers out, glue the outsides together, then flip them over for a deck bridge.
N scale ones just flip over to make a shorter version for the ends.
I have a pic here somewhere…
 
Honestly that is what I was thinking since I would prefer deck bridges, just not sure I can make that happen with my limited talent. If you happen to come across that pic be happy to see it, will do a little pic hunting myself…
 
Well how about I just dig it out and get some fresh pictures?
This is an HO in the middle with N on the ends. There is a styrene strip glued to the edges so the track just nestles between. You can’t really see where the bridge was cut in the photos, you’d have to measure I guess.
The styrene on the bottom is added to stiffen things up.
I hope these help!

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