metal wheels. which is better?

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rustam

Member
rustam & All
FYI: The pre-roller bearing trucks being lubed w/ grease would get coated w/ the grease including the wheel faces. So they wouldn't look "rusty". Learned this from a very "old head" modeler.
Thanks for the tip! Yes, I know that part of the wheel bearing looks more dark and oily. I just wanted to try the 88 code. I had the paint in cans brown and black.

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Y3a

Stuck in the 1930's
So my non-standard $.02.

I don't put those metal weights in ANY of my cars except cabooses, since I push against those with big Y6b 2-8-8-2's.
To make the illusion of a single engine hauling 60+ loaded* hoppers up a 3% grade and around a 28" super-elevated curve I HAVE CHEATED!
The tool that helps me do this is the pocket reamer device for deepening the axle pockets on plastic truck frames.

I use Jay-Bee wheels which are heavy and have a stiff metal axle.
They come pre-blackened.
I further buff graphite into the pockets with a piece of soft balsa wood.
All my cars roll very easily.
The 'full' cars have thin plastic sheet vacuformed into the shape of coal loads,
and painted gloss black and real coal sprinkled on top while the black is still wet.
They weigh nothing.

I use the 36" Kay-Dee's on my hideous Athearn fleet of heavyweights. They have lit interiors and correct details(because I'm hardcore) so they are still a little heavy.
 

NH Mike

CEO & Wheel Cleaner
They look much better Rustam. The Rail Link car looks best because the edge of the wheels is not shiney.
 

rustam

Member
Yes, Mike! I agree with you - the edge of the wheel shines a lot.
Now look - I tried again. I think what happened to keep the rust on the rim)))
When the cleaning wheel flange after the paint, it turns over again;-)


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MGWSY

Active Member
They look much better Rustam. The Rail Link car looks best because the edge of the wheels is not shiney.
Ya but if you look at a lot of real cars the edge of the wheel rim gets shiny when going through Self Guarding Switch frogs as used in yards and hump yards so thats prototypical as well.
 

rustam

Member
Ya but if you look at a lot of real cars the edge of the wheel rim gets shiny when going through Self Guarding Switch frogs as used in yards and hump yards so thats prototypical as well.
Here I also agree! When the car goes "downhill brake / hump", the edge of the wheel braking, while still clean.

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cajon

Active Member
That's why my preference is for Intermountains & Reboxxs vs "painted" metal wheels. Love those shiny flanges & treads on freight car wheels!
 

Sirfoldalot

Product Tester ACME INC.
Staff member
VS .... Abbreviation of versus.
Versus ... Used to link two or more opposing or contrasting elements.
 
G'day , I've replaced almost all my metal wheels now and have been using Bachmann 12 pack wheelsets ..They might not have the reputation of the more expensive ones but unlike some they fit virtually everything.. I've found that some have a habit of having too drastic a bevel and won't run smoothly in certain trucks...but the Bachmann ones have never failed yet if that's any help...Cost me $14.99 for a 12 pack last time...not too bad.. Cheers Rod..
 

rustam

Member
Reboxx makes wheelsets like Intermountain. You can find "vs" in a dictionary.
I now understood the translation! )))
to the wheels reboks I have not gotten ...... or rather have not bought)))

I have only cleaned the cone of reboks ... good thing!
 

rustam

Member
G'day , I've replaced almost all my metal wheels now and have been using Bachmann 12 pack wheelsets ..They might not have the reputation of the more expensive ones but unlike some they fit virtually everything.. I've found that some have a habit of having too drastic a bevel and won't run smoothly in certain trucks...but the Bachmann ones have never failed yet if that's any help...Cost me $14.99 for a 12 pack last time...not too bad.. Cheers Rod..
I have a special relationship to the firm Bachman. I love it. Makes a strong game models. Love the open hopper 3 bye. I've got a few. And I plan to buy several more.

As far as the metallic wheels, I today I prefer - intermountain 88 code.

Well, about others, too, do not forget. I'll show that I have ... maybe tomorrow or the day after. Will show the total picture.
 

PaulB

Member
I have a special relationship to the firm Bachman. I love it. Makes a strong game models. Love the open hopper 3 bye. I've got a few. And I plan to buy several more.

As far as the metallic wheels, I today I prefer - intermountain 88 code.

Well, about others, too, do not forget. I'll show that I have ... maybe tomorrow or the day after. Will show the total picture.

Wheels are so important. After all they are half of what trains are about.

The other half is track. We must have wheels that match our track standards. It isn't just how well the wheels roll, it is how well they stay on the track, especially going through turnouts.


NMRA is well on the way to becoming the world standard. So it is easy to get wheels and track that matches. But it is helpful to have an NMRA wheel and track gauge (never leave home without it) so to be able to check wheels and track are in gauge. This is particularly so if we want to use European track work, which often follows NEM standards. Also it is helpful for finding wheels that are damaged and thus out of gauge.


One very important standard is the back to back distance for wheels and 'check rails' ('guard rails' in the US) on 'turnouts' (US prototype is called a switch, English call them points). The check rail is the thing that stops wheels jumping off the track when they cross the turnout frog.


Is that all Dutch? No problem, check out the NMRA site for diagrams and explanations:

Homepage: http://www.nmra.org/

Standards (note there is a diagram of the wheel and track gauge): http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/consist.html
 

rustam

Member
Wheels are so important.
PaulB! Yeah, thanks for the link! Good Stuff videos!

To adjust the height of the hitch I use Kadee # 205. A very good thing!
In the choice of wheels for trucks I like to "Itnermountain". There are 100 and 88 of the Code. Code 88 is certainly more realistic!
Although I have a lot of different metal wheels from different manufacturers. I think sometimes you have to choose the car under its wheels. As they say - what do I go? ;-)
Rail material I PECO code 100. With a rail shooter and nothing flies!Kadee_205_01.jpgKadee_205_02.jpgKadee_205_03.jpgKadee_205_04.jpg
 

rustam

Member
By the way! To adjust the height I use these screws and washers that I bought at different stores "home handyman."
Although I explain to you the friends you already know how to do it. I'm just looking for these debts washers)))))2237.jpg
 




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