Kitbashed Passenger Diesel: GP40PH-2B


NYSW F45

NYSW F45

Active Member
Ok this has been a loco i've wanted to try and build since i got back into modeling about 6 years ago. But it was also something I didn't want to tackle due to its complexity of different parts needed. From the looks of it, it would like just a SD45 with 4 axle trucks, single DB fan an additional fan on the long hood. But its not that easy. The model im doing, the prototypes started out as regular GP40's, had there frame stretched, smaller fuel tanks added, Cat generator for HEP (4 cooling fan) and a longer long hood built.

So its now 2012 and i've started this build. From some modelers i know they've said to use a SD40 frame, not a dash 2 frame, SD45 shell, GP40 shell and a SD40T-2 shell and if you want to go crazy, lots of cannon and company parts, details west parts and other stuff.

So I acquired what I needed to start. Cutting the shells down and removing what I needed and didn't need. I wanted to do this as with my newborn coming home I didn't want to use the dremel once home.

So here are the prototype pics of what im building.
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And here's some progress shots. I've hacked up the SD45 shell, the GP40 shell and the tiny piece from the tunnel motor. Plugged the radiator fan holes from the SD45. Cause I need to move them forward and closer together to add the 4th fan.
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I'll be taking a few days from this to finish up my NYSW tunnel motor now that my cannon & co. parts arrived. I want to try and finish up as much stuf as possible so when it comes to primering, i have it all lined up like an assembly line, same goes for paint.
 
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few more pics
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The athearn rtr sd45 fuel tank i've hacked up to shorten to a 2500 gallon tank. I gotta take about another 3/4 of an inch off to get it close enough in length.
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This is going to be an interesting build. I still want to model one or two of the Amtrak GP40TC that they got from Go Transit.

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Im going to try and see if I can build the 88'' nose and maybe the cab base tonight. The baby is sleeping right now so i may get a start on it.

But the frame is going to need some milling for the shell to sit perfect. I had to dremel and sand some area's to get the kitbashed walkway sections to sit flush. They're not perfect so a mill would definitely flaten and smooth it all out.
 
oh and this is definitely getting sound down the road. And with Athearn and Soundtraxx now coming out with those refrigerator cars with sound the thought of having a seperate sound decoder for the generator/HEP might be a possibility.
 
Put together most of the 88'' Cannon and co. nose. Gotta get the sand filler cover and air vents and brake put on.
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And with the bug eyes marker lights.
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I thought I bought the dash 2 cab kit but looks like I didn't. So I'll have to beg the wife to let me pick that up to build. I destroyed the athearn sd45 cab after stripping the paint thinking i did buy the C&C cab. lol whooops.

I also used my rail snippers to snip down more of the previous athearn battery box's so they are flush with the rest of the walkways. Cannon and co. sub base will be put together tomorrow and test fit.
 
Well I had emailed NJT on the 20th asking if there was any way to obtain the builders blueprints for the model im building or even possibly going to take measurements in person. They emailed me back today saying that they can accommodate me and have someone escort me around a prototype to get accurate measurements of the doors i need to build. This will also help me get all the underframe and minute detail shots i need for this build.

But here's some minor progress shots.
Cannon sub base for dash 2.
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Cannon 88'' nose with bug eye marker lights
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The store I ordered the Dash 2 cab and plano products called today to tell me they accidentally shipped it to someone in VA and now I gotta hope that person sends it to me. Not to happy about this as now i got to wait even longer for my parts.

Also, the model im building is 62'5 coupler to coupler. The frame that im using is an Athearn SD40, which is 65'8 on the prototype. The Athearn frame measures 59'10 or so when converted. Is the missing 6 feet or so, the difference with couplers on the proto?
 
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A few years back I ran across an undec Athearn SDP-40, and just bought it. Still sitting in the box. Whether I turn it into a CNJ GP40P, don't know or not, but at least I have it, when I need it.

Have you got a layout at this point? Between your CNJ wide cab, and a few other of your projects, I'd be interested to see where you run your efforts. At some point, I may do a E60CF in the last Reading scheme.

Keep up the good work!
 
No layout, just ez track to run around the apartment. i havent had time to go over to the nysme in carlstadt cuz of pregnant wife. hopefully next weekend.
 
Now you need to make the operating brake lights on the side of the cab, lol.

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From what I read the Blue light means the Handbrake is on, the White light means cab signals on and operational, and the Green light which is off means the brakes are released.
 
The MBTA has something similar on their coaches. Blue = handbrake on, Red = air brakes applied, Green = brakes released. Whether the indicator lights are working..... is a different story ;)
 
diburning said:
The MBTA has something similar on their coaches. Blue = handbrake on, Red = air brakes applied, Green = brakes released. Whether the indicator lights are working..... is a different story ;)
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I would say most if not all passenger equipment from Amtrak and Commuter RR's has these but this is the first time I have seen it on a loco! Now I have to figure out how to make operating ones, at least I recently figured how to make operating APU lights on locos but these would be neat! LOL
 
MGWSY said:
I would say most if not all passenger equipment from Amtrak and Commuter RR's has these but this is the first time I have seen it on a loco! Now I have to figure out how to make operating ones, at least I recently figured how to make operating APU lights on locos but these would be neat! LOL
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I've seriously thought about doing it. I think using fiber optic stands would be best way. The housing would have to be custom made, have 3 holes drilled on both sides like above in the pics, then have 3 individual holes on the mounting side. Now I would take 3 small strands of fiber optic insert in each hole then take 3 seperate strands and put them in the hole on the mounting side, kinda like forming a T. Those 3 stands would be worked into the long hood and have micro leds for them. If I do any sound for this its going to need 2 decoders, one for the 645 prime mover/heads f&r/ditch lights. Second decoder would be for the strobes front and rear, HEP generator if there is one that sounds close enough and then for the brake indicator lights.

But this is all down the road. I still haven't received any more of my cannon parts like the cab, all the side doors i'll need for the HEP compartment, plano radiator hatch's. I did get a bluebox gp40 and gp38 off ebay that someone had already started to detail. Its a shame they are getting hacked :( lol
 
NYSW F45 said:
I've seriously thought about doing it. I think using fiber optic stands would be best way. The housing would have to be custom made, have 3 holes drilled on both sides like above in the pics, then have 3 individual holes on the mounting side. Now I would take 3 small strands of fiber optic insert in each hole then take 3 seperate strands and put them in the hole on the mounting side, kinda like forming a T. Those 3 stands would be worked into the long hood and have micro leds for them. If I do any sound for this its going to need 2 decoders, one for the 645 prime mover/heads f&r/ditch lights. Second decoder would be for the strobes front and rear, HEP generator if there is one that sounds close enough and then for the brake indicator lights.

But this is all down the road. I still haven't received any more of my cannon parts like the cab, all the side doors i'll need for the HEP compartment, plano radiator hatch's. I did get a bluebox gp40 and gp38 off ebay that someone had already started to detail. Its a shame they are getting hacked :( lol
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I have tried the T thing with fiber optic and it didnt work, I was going to install operating lights on Walthers Superliner cars. Even with super bright LEDs you couldnt tell the lights were on. I will come up with something eventually but I have a lot of other things to finish first, LOL. I have an idea but havent tested it yet.
 
MGWSY said:
I have tried the T thing with fiber optic and it didnt work, I was going to install operating lights on Walthers Superliner cars. Even with super bright LEDs you couldnt tell the lights were on. I will come up with something eventually but I have a lot of other things to finish first, LOL. I have an idea but havent tested it yet.
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well there goes that idea. LOL. Are there even leds that tiny to install in something like this?
 
no way to use that in the brake lite indicator housing as that looks like what the ho scale size would be.

If and whenever njt gets back to me about getting measurements i'll try and get the size of the indicator and see what it would end up being in ho.
 
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