Kato Unitrack Turnout - Electrical Issue or Mechanical Blockage?

[GuilfordRailman]

So….two months ago I ballasted my track, including the turnouts. I was EXTREMELY careful and all seemed well until now. I haven’t run trains since then but wanted to test my electrical connections again as I was planning on running trains soon. Upon testing one of the DIY DPDT toggle switches I use to control them, to my surprise the connection was very weak and couldn’t throw the switch. According to some diagnostic tests, I have found that:

1) I can throw the switches manually using the provided mechanism mounted on the side of each turnout.

2) The turnout seems be receiving SOME electricity but not enough.

3) When the manual switch control is halfway thrown, the DPDT switch can do the rest.

So, my question is…could this be an electrical issue due to some glue getting into the turnout, or is there in fact a mechanical blockage that is affecting only electrical control, not manual control?

 

[J.Albert]

What are you using to provide power to the switch motors?

I believe they require about 12-14v dc.

 

[Smudge617]

Sounds electrical, possible you have a bad connection between the DPTD switch and the turnout, are you using a CDU to throw your turnouts?

 

[GuilfordRailman]

What are you using to provide power to the switch motors?

I believe they require about 12-14v dc.

I’m using a 12 V wall adapter.

There is only one other turnout on the layout and it works great! This one worked fine until ballasting. I tested it after ballasting, worked fine and then didn’t use it again until now. Maybe some glue had a chance to dry more after testing affecting the electrical power?

 

[GuilfordRailman]

Sounds electrical, possible you have a bad connection between the DPTD switch and the turnout, are you using a CDU to throw your turnouts?

I’m not using a CDU. I have the 12 V wall adapter feed directly into the two DPDT toggles.

Here’s photos from when I put it together:

 

[santafewillie]

I believe that it is mechanical. Manual control is much more positive and can overcome any slight issues as you have verified in #1. #2 is questionable, have you actually tested with a voltmeter or continuity tester? #3 seems to verify that electrical is not your problem. Glue in the turnout itself would not affect electrical discharges. Glue on or in the turnout could be providing mechanical resistance. Or maybe a stray piece of ballast has gotten into the mechanism. Study the situation carefully and slowly, and see if there really is some initial resistance when you throw the turnout manually.
Good luck.

 

[GuilfordRailman]

I believe that it is mechanical. Manual control is much more positive and can overcome any slight issues as you have verified in #1. #2 is questionable, have you actually tested with a voltmeter or continuity tester? #3 seems to verify that electrical is not your problem. Glue in the turnout itself would not affect electrical discharges. Glue on or in the turnout could be providing mechanical resistance. Or maybe a stray piece of ballast has gotten into the mechanism. Study the situation carefully and slowly, and see if there really is some initial resistance when you throw the turnout manually.
Good luck.

I haven’t tested the issue yet with my voltmeter but I’ll try to get to it today.

I’m thinking glue or ballast is in the mechanism. If that’s the case, I have no idea how to clean it out.

I’ll study the situation a little more closely later on today and see what I come up with.

Thanks!

 

[GuilfordRailman]

Glue on or in the turnout could be providing mechanical resistance. Or maybe a stray piece of ballast has gotten into the mechanism.

Any recommendations on how to clean the inside of the turnout without removing it? Could I use a can of compressed air for cleaning computers to try and remove debris? What about using a small narrow bristle brush with isopropyl alcohol to clean any glue that’s present inside the mechanism?

I spent some time looking at the turnout. I recorded a short video demonstrating the problem. As you’ll observe in the video, when the manual control is set to the left (path not deviating), and I flick the DPDT toggle, it doesn’t budge. Once the manual control is slid to a certain point, the DPDT toggle is able to complete the switch. At the end of the video when I go to flick the manual control the other way with the DPDT toggle, there is no resistance at all.

 

[santafewillie]

Definitely a mechanical issue. Using the compressed air might work. make sure that you use safety glasses. Use the air in conjunction with a dry stiff bristle brush. Make sure there are no bent closure rails. If it's glue, water might work better than alcohol. For me, having the advantage of over 35 years experience, I might be able to "feel" where the bind is with my fingertips as it is operated. Try it and get a little experience with "hands on" repair!

 

[GuilfordRailman]

Definitely a mechanical issue

I have determined based on more tests that the glue is most likely the culprit. I used compressed air and no loose ballast came out or moved around. (As far as I know…)

I tried using a long bristle brush to work into the turnout but it proved difficult. I’m curious as to whether or not you think adding some drops of water into the mechanism from the outside would work? It sounds risky but it’s the only way I can see being able to dilute any glue obstructing the mechanism.

It also seems the more I manually throw the switch, the easier it is becoming for the DPDT toggle to assist. Although…it could just be me seeing things haha.

 

[J.Albert]

Methinks you're gonna have to take that switch out, and either clean it out or replace it.
And next time, use less ballast, particularly around the manual throw switch.

 

[GuilfordRailman]

Methinks you're gonna have to take that switch out, and either clean it out or replace it.
And next time, use less ballast, particularly around the manual throw switch.

Since my layout only has two turnouts and they are both right next to one another and within easy reach, I’ll just leave the turnout as is. It seems to be improving the more I use the manual control so whatever is blocking the mechanism seems to loosen up as time goes on.

I had put tape over the manual throw switch when I ballasted the track and didn’t have any ballast fall into the turnouts which makes me think it’s diluted glue that worked its way in. I’ll definitely have to improve my ballasting technique next time tho for sure.