TLOC
Well-Known Member
I do agree, thank you
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
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The best thing I can tell you about graffiti is decals are great and custom graffiti is fun. But very slow for me. I just purchased some fine point calligraphy pens for sharper lines when I do custom work
I watch on YouTube content provider TheyMakeitLikeThat. He does N scale graffiti mainly but has many videos on doing HO. He has some good content but has been producing more shorts that I don’t care for, but…
Boomer Diorama and Dansrailroad2011. If Panzermeister36 has a train weathering video I’ll always watch that from the beginning. I breeze through his military videos but often go back and watch those in full. He is very good, very straight forward in his presentations.
I have a 79’ reefer and a 86’ autoracks started with custom graffiti. I am going to try the calligraphy pens when we get back in June to see how that works for me. I usually add custom or decal graffiti first before weathering. I always do tagging after weathering.
I’ll clean the car and then spray the graffiti side with a gloss finish and even in the dehydrator I let it cure for 3 days. That’s for either decals or custom. Custom on a gloss finish for me works better than a matte finish.
I’m interested in those Playmarkers from AK. The thinner the tip for graffiti for me is best. The AK Playmarkers look thick tipped. The Sharpie fine point markers are great but go through 3 or 4 on a 60’ box car. Thats too wasteful. Looking forward to how it works for you
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
I am up to my neck in an additional 200 intermodal 40’ containers. I have a client that I truly have done hundreds of containers for him over each of the past 5 years. He built a a backdrop walls that was made up of 200 old Walther 20’ containers that I cut in half and glued to the backdrop. He’s been promised an article about his intermodal HO scale yard including the backdrop walls. So no pictures from me have been allowed but today I have a couple of containers he wants the roof to be dirtied. Normally for his container 20% of the roofs are heavily faded and the rest light to medium but rarely dirtied. I have 6 total to do this way.
After a cleaning with warm water and dish soap I sprayed just the roofs with Isopropyl Alcohol. When not quite dried I added Pan Pastel # 820.2 Neutral Grey Extra Dark across the middle of the roof and brushed it end to end, NOT side to side. I then hit it with the hair dryer. I then spritzed some IPA lightly over the entire roof and then dabbed lightly Pan Pastel #380.1 Red Iron Oxide Ex. Dark across the center of the roof. I then brushed this side to side blending it with the previous color
Any rust seen on the roofs and corner posts are done by AK Weathering Pencils. The colored tip was dipped into a spot of water to activate the colors
The container doors are done with Vallejo Air burnt umber #71.040 brushed on and while still damp I brushed the Neutral Grey pan pastel from above and then hit it with the hairdryer
The 3 pictures used for ideas from the Alamy site
These 2 have been approved but the next 4 containers will be similar but not as dark on the roof and doors. These will be hit with a clear coat and will dry until Tuesday. I have op sessions the next 2 days (Sunday and Monday) and doubt I’ll even want to look at my bench either day when I get home.
What about the sides and the front panels, you ask? As I write this I’m not sure. The client wants a few scratched rust spots and maybe a dirty fade but even he’s not sure. Hey, he thought about all this he said at 4am this morning and called me at 10am and delivered 5 minutes later as he called from a few blocks away to see if I was even home…
After a cleaning with warm water and dish soap I sprayed just the roofs with Isopropyl Alcohol. When not quite dried I added Pan Pastel # 820.2 Neutral Grey Extra Dark across the middle of the roof and brushed it end to end, NOT side to side. I then hit it with the hair dryer. I then spritzed some IPA lightly over the entire roof and then dabbed lightly Pan Pastel #380.1 Red Iron Oxide Ex. Dark across the center of the roof. I then brushed this side to side blending it with the previous color
Any rust seen on the roofs and corner posts are done by AK Weathering Pencils. The colored tip was dipped into a spot of water to activate the colors
The container doors are done with Vallejo Air burnt umber #71.040 brushed on and while still damp I brushed the Neutral Grey pan pastel from above and then hit it with the hairdryer
The 3 pictures used for ideas from the Alamy site
These 2 have been approved but the next 4 containers will be similar but not as dark on the roof and doors. These will be hit with a clear coat and will dry until Tuesday. I have op sessions the next 2 days (Sunday and Monday) and doubt I’ll even want to look at my bench either day when I get home.
What about the sides and the front panels, you ask? As I write this I’m not sure. The client wants a few scratched rust spots and maybe a dirty fade but even he’s not sure. Hey, he thought about all this he said at 4am this morning and called me at 10am and delivered 5 minutes later as he called from a few blocks away to see if I was even home…
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Back at the bench today. I am awaiting approval even though I was pre-approved to do it “your way” by the client on what turned out to be 20 chassis and 32 containers.
I finished up the 6 special request containers for a good client and buddy.
Now to some of my stuff. I as a pretty constant buyer and seller of equipment. From 2018 to probably June of 2024 I’d buy a car, weather it and put it on my layout or immediately sell in it on Facebook. I call it churning the roster. I like boxcars especially Hi Cubes. 86’, 60’ or the baby hicube 40’ cars just open my eyes a touch wider. 3-4 years ago 2021-22 I couldn’t do the 60’ plate F hi cubes from Walthers Mainline fast enough and then one day boom, it stopped. Ethanol tank cars, reefers and now coil cars have had “HOTTER than HOT right now” spins. I stopped guessing around then about trends because like the stock market the more you know the bigger the chances to be wrong on the guess!
I have about 12 to 20 too many 60’ high cubes. Based on post it sticky’s these 4 have not seen the tracks for over 1 year ( 2/21/2024). So I pulled them out and will do some touch up work on them, mainly the roof and end panels. These cars were built by the real guys in 2009. My layout era is 2015, so 6 years. When I weathered these in 2023 I did light fades, a few have graffiti decals and not much else. They need some work and then I will post them here on the sales page and Facebook sites
Here are a few pictures after more grime was added to the roofs. I will add at least 1 more earth color to the roof and blend it
If you are looking for some modern 60’ plate F high cubes these will be selling for about $40 to $48 each plus shipping. All have their boxes. I have lots of pictures! You can contact me via the forum DM system. That is the envelope located located left of the bell in the header
I finished up the 6 special request containers for a good client and buddy.
Now to some of my stuff. I as a pretty constant buyer and seller of equipment. From 2018 to probably June of 2024 I’d buy a car, weather it and put it on my layout or immediately sell in it on Facebook. I call it churning the roster. I like boxcars especially Hi Cubes. 86’, 60’ or the baby hicube 40’ cars just open my eyes a touch wider. 3-4 years ago 2021-22 I couldn’t do the 60’ plate F hi cubes from Walthers Mainline fast enough and then one day boom, it stopped. Ethanol tank cars, reefers and now coil cars have had “HOTTER than HOT right now” spins. I stopped guessing around then about trends because like the stock market the more you know the bigger the chances to be wrong on the guess!
I have about 12 to 20 too many 60’ high cubes. Based on post it sticky’s these 4 have not seen the tracks for over 1 year ( 2/21/2024). So I pulled them out and will do some touch up work on them, mainly the roof and end panels. These cars were built by the real guys in 2009. My layout era is 2015, so 6 years. When I weathered these in 2023 I did light fades, a few have graffiti decals and not much else. They need some work and then I will post them here on the sales page and Facebook sites
Here are a few pictures after more grime was added to the roofs. I will add at least 1 more earth color to the roof and blend it
If you are looking for some modern 60’ plate F high cubes these will be selling for about $40 to $48 each plus shipping. All have their boxes. I have lots of pictures! You can contact me via the forum DM system. That is the envelope located located left of the bell in the header
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
The roofs need a matte clear finish but I’m done with these 3
The roof was done with a light fade which probably was a 20% white to 80% thinner mix a few years ago.
Today, I took burnt umber from Vallejo Air and water and dabbed it on the roof. Did that in the previous post
On these three I then did a 30% burnt umber, 10% black and the balance tap water and mixed it.
Then I took a mop brush and dabbed water on the top of a car. Then I took another mop brush and dabbed the black and burnt umber mix on.
While still wet I took yet another mop brush and dipped it into AK dark steel pigment #233550 and dabbed that on the roof.
Then I dabbed more water on the roof and took another mop brush dabbing on AK dark rust #233561.
To blend it all I took another clean brush dipped into water and dabbed the roofs again. What happens happens. After 30 minutes I took a hair dryer blowing the roofs. Same materials and the 3 roofs each are unique
Now to strip the end panels after the grandson’s soccer game in 30 minutes
The roof was done with a light fade which probably was a 20% white to 80% thinner mix a few years ago.
Today, I took burnt umber from Vallejo Air and water and dabbed it on the roof. Did that in the previous post
On these three I then did a 30% burnt umber, 10% black and the balance tap water and mixed it.
Then I took a mop brush and dabbed water on the top of a car. Then I took another mop brush and dabbed the black and burnt umber mix on.
While still wet I took yet another mop brush and dipped it into AK dark steel pigment #233550 and dabbed that on the roof.
Then I dabbed more water on the roof and took another mop brush dabbing on AK dark rust #233561.
To blend it all I took another clean brush dipped into water and dabbed the roofs again. What happens happens. After 30 minutes I took a hair dryer blowing the roofs. Same materials and the 3 roofs each are unique
traiNscale
Well-Known Member
i really need to start, painting graffitis on my box cars.
maybe i will start with another try tonight, i feel ready for it.
your boxcars looking so nice and "clean". Great work.
maybe i will start with another try tonight, i feel ready for it.
your boxcars looking so nice and "clean". Great work.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
These 4 shown were mainly faded about 2022. Tomorrow I will work on the end panels. More grime towards the bottom and less at the top but still some. I will splatter some track kick up spray on each end about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom.
The best thing I can tell you about graffiti is decals are great and custom graffiti is fun. But very slow for me. I just purchased some fine point calligraphy pens for sharper lines when I do custom work
traiNscale
Well-Known Member
so far i did two graffitis.
one on a old box car just to try it out, with some sharpis i think they are called.
then the graffiti on my bridge diorama. this one i did with the REAL COLOR MARKERS from AK, they are really awesome to paint with.
now i also got the PLAYMARKERs they i still have to test, but i think they will work great. will show some pictures when i got them.
for decals i often think, they are not in the correct size, they look like the chewing gum tattos from back in the 90ies. but maybe thats just me
one on a old box car just to try it out, with some sharpis i think they are called.
then the graffiti on my bridge diorama. this one i did with the REAL COLOR MARKERS from AK, they are really awesome to paint with.
now i also got the PLAYMARKERs they i still have to test, but i think they will work great. will show some pictures when i got them.
for decals i often think, they are not in the correct size, they look like the chewing gum tattos from back in the 90ies. but maybe thats just me
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Some decal graffiti does seem small to me. I buy 90% of all my decals from Circuscitydecals.com. I buy HO and S graffiti decals. I use the S on autoracks and 60’ cars but will mix the 2 on the same carsso far i did two graffitis.
one on a old box car just to try it out, with some sharpis i think they are called.
then the graffiti on my bridge diorama. this one i did with the REAL COLOR MARKERS from AK, they are really awesome to paint with.
now i also got the PLAYMARKERs they i still have to test, but i think they will work great. will show some pictures when i got them.
for decals i often think, they are not in the correct size, they look like the chewing gum tattos from back in the 90ies. but maybe thats just me
I watch on YouTube content provider TheyMakeitLikeThat. He does N scale graffiti mainly but has many videos on doing HO. He has some good content but has been producing more shorts that I don’t care for, but…
traiNscale
Well-Known Member
TheyMakeitLikeThat i know him, or watch him from time to time. but i have to say, i dont like his style of video and his voice . but yes he has some great tipps. also ProScaleModels has some nice graffitis, he has same fire styles. the idea with S Scale for autoracks is damn good. i still need one of those cars. why? because they look cool. But i have now my 86 feet box car, thats also a monster. but iam not shure if i will paint this one
. but yes he has some great tipps. also ProScaleModels has some nice graffitis, he has same fire styles. the idea with S Scale for autoracks is damn good. i still need one of those cars. why? because they look cool. But i have now my 86 feet box car, thats also a monster. but iam not shure if i will paint this one
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I agree about his video style but I look for tips 1st. If he has something I go back and start the video over. Basically there are 2.5 guys I watch the full video when one shows up on YouTube.TheyMakeitLikeThat i know him, or watch him from time to time. but i have to say, i dont like his style of video and his voice
Boomer Diorama and Dansrailroad2011. If Panzermeister36 has a train weathering video I’ll always watch that from the beginning. I breeze through his military videos but often go back and watch those in full. He is very good, very straight forward in his presentations.
I have a 79’ reefer and a 86’ autoracks started with custom graffiti. I am going to try the calligraphy pens when we get back in June to see how that works for me. I usually add custom or decal graffiti first before weathering. I always do tagging after weathering.
I’ll clean the car and then spray the graffiti side with a gloss finish and even in the dehydrator I let it cure for 3 days. That’s for either decals or custom. Custom on a gloss finish for me works better than a matte finish.
I’m interested in those Playmarkers from AK. The thinner the tip for graffiti for me is best. The AK Playmarkers look thick tipped. The Sharpie fine point markers are great but go through 3 or 4 on a 60’ box car. Thats too wasteful. Looking forward to how it works for you
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traiNscale
Well-Known Member
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I am re-doing the weathering on 3 60’ high cubes for myself.
These were originally faded in 2022 and have mostly been in their boxes. I showed how I redid the roofs and now it’s onto the side panels.
What I am showing here is just the rusty of the hinge, brackets and hangers. Just Burnt Umber by Vallejo Air as identified in the above postings. Straight out of the bottle after a good mixing using the Vortex mixer. The streaking will occur later and will blend the rust spots better. In this picture the rust spots are still fresh and a little damp
The AK rust streaking fluid I am going to use on the side panels. I don’t often use it preferring to mix my own blends but what the heck it’s in the drawer, use it! The streaking is applied by a brush
Those pictures later
These were originally faded in 2022 and have mostly been in their boxes. I showed how I redid the roofs and now it’s onto the side panels.
What I am showing here is just the rusty of the hinge, brackets and hangers. Just Burnt Umber by Vallejo Air as identified in the above postings. Straight out of the bottle after a good mixing using the Vortex mixer. The streaking will occur later and will blend the rust spots better. In this picture the rust spots are still fresh and a little damp
The AK rust streaking fluid I am going to use on the side panels. I don’t often use it preferring to mix my own blends but what the heck it’s in the drawer, use it! The streaking is applied by a brush
Those pictures later
AirbrushNo5
Well-Known Member
Boomer Diorama, Dansrailroad2011 and Panzermeister36 are all great…
When I was a working stiff, I used to watch Dan on the train to and from work…
Now I take pics of his vids for reference…
When I was a working stiff, I used to watch Dan on the train to and from work…
Now I take pics of his vids for reference…
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Dan was just a teenager when he started his YouTube videos. I watched him long before I found Boomer. But Dan could describe his process and didn’t have an attitude of do it this way. Actually I believe Panzermiester36 was a teenager when I started watching him, also before Boomer.
AirbrushNo5
Well-Known Member
Dan really has matured in techniques and use of different products for achieving a finished product…
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