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Ok I counted the drops out of the dropper bottle. Vallejo Air, tan earth # 71.079, 5 drops of paint 20 drops of tap water. After drying with a hairdryer there is some background but looking more like a fade!
Applied wet on wet. I brush water onto the car and while still wet I apply the wash mix
Next
i wick up with a dry brush any accumulated wash
Car after the hair dryer. I will try a 50/50 mix paint to water for the next wash
Another wash, wick up any accumulated wash and let dry. I am cheating here, I am using the trusty old cheap hair dryer that probably has helped dry 30% of the cars I have weathered since 2015. I’m saving about 15 minutes!
If I was using an airbrush all 4 sides plus the top would be already completed
ok 5 wash applications and I’m happy. I will do the rest of the car and be back later
Tom I have the same colors and then some. Different railroads and different areas weather and dirty engines in various tones. I noticed that many CSX engines have a light brown to a grimy brown tone. I've found these two colors that I'm going to try. It seems the more I study videos and look at engines and cars there are a few different tones dirt as there are different tones of rust. The engine pictured starts off light and gets darker as you get to the trucks. I've used on average 3 different colors on engines and that doesn't count powders.
Tom I have the same colors and then some. Different railroads and different areas weather and dirty engines in various tones. I noticed that many CSX engines have a light brown to a grimy brown tone. I've found these two colors that I'm going to try. It seems the more I study videos and look at engines and cars there are a few different tones dirt as there are different tones of rust. The engine pictured starts off light and gets darker as you get to the trucks. I've used on average 3 different colors on engines and that doesn't count powders.View attachment 214879View attachment 214880View attachment 214881
I didn’t realize how many browns in Vallejo Air I have. I sometimes add grays and green to them to get different shades. It’s not unusual to have 5-8 Vallejo bottles out when I weather. Sometimes it’s just 1 drop to get something I like.
CSX 3132 looks super! Well done
On the covered hopper for ADM. pause in the action.
The other night my wife poured the corn beef grease and fat down the disposal. Today it clogged everything up RIGHT ABOVE my weathering bench. When I got hit with water while sitting at the bench I knew we had a problem. The plumber talked me through shutting down the reverse osmosis system at 4:50 pm. That’s were the leaking was coming from. The travel charge to come out after 5 was $250 on Monday it will be zero but still $75 per hour. It’s always something
These are 3 units after a light fade +. Still be worked on
A light red/black grime applied to the side panels only. Anything on the top of the car is just over spray. Next up is a darker grime applied to the inside edges of the ribs. The client has not seen these yet
The Continental car was white and I was hoping for a more gray grime looking color than the reddish dirt color that dried. This car though is similar to the color I showed on the Gulf & Ship Island.
TLDX was orange and I like it with the fade and the grime. Kick up spray will be a dark earth color
The CMA car just has the fade and will next get a sandy color kick up grime
I posted this in a reply to CambriaArea51 the other day
the covered hopper for ADM. A pause in the action.
The other night ( st paddy day) my wife poured the corn beef grease and fat down the disposal. Senior moment! Today it clogged everything up RIGHT ABOVE my weathering bench. When I got hit with water while sitting at the bench I knew we had a problem. The plumber talked me through shutting down the reverse osmosis system at 4:50 pm. That’s were the leaking was coming from. The travel charge to come out after 5 was $250 on Monday it will be zero but still $75 per hour. It’s always something
ANYWAY, turns out the water didn’t just drop onto my neck as aI was working at the bench. By time I got back to the bench my bench top was flooded with the ADM car right in the middle of a puddle. Thankfully I had just recently cleaned up the bench top.
The car is fine but the weathering portion was a mess. The fade is fine as it was sealed. I will get back and document this car eventually. Meanwhile there are 5 covered hoppers to weather
David, as I said in the email last night I was a bit unsure on the Continental car. I like white cars but no matter how old they are I still want viewers to know this was a white car at one time. I’ll be working on that this afternoon. No rust!
I have quite a few intermodal wells cars coming up on the schedule. Including 3 just received yesterday. I opened those for inspection before lunch about 90 minutes ago. 3 very nice Walthers 53’ well cars the client has been searching for this number DTTX #620630 with TTX logos. One of the cars without the numbers has the logo. It’s a 3 car set even though they are individual cars, no drawbars! So I guess that’s fine…
Checking that out is not in my purview but inspecting the car is. All 6 ladders are broken above the body of the car. The ladder pieces were in the box! But these cars are supposed to be on 33” steel wheels and Walthers sold them that way. These cars have plastic 36” wheels, which means someone exchanged them. I can for $$$ fix the ladders but I do not have any 32” steel wheels. I’ll replace but I’m not searching for 32” wheels. I messaged the client to see if he wants to search and send me the wheels, my LHS 4 miles away has none in stock.
These are packaged back into the container they shipped in. I’ll wait for a response before proceeding and these go to the back of the queue
The rust on the seems don't look right. I think if you use powders it would be a better blend. Ribs usually catch the dirt grim as they go down the line. I think a dirty/rust blend of powders (put one on at a time) I put on with a micro brush to keep the line thin then blend with a bigger soft brush as I did with this grain car.
The rust on the seems don't look right. I think if you use powders it would be a better blend. Ribs usually catch the dirt grim as they go down the line. I think a dirty/rust blend of powders (put one on at a time) I put on with a micro brush to keep the line thin then blend with a bigger soft brush as I did with this grain car.View attachment 215408
Thanks, great minds think alike. I did strip that cover for the reasons you stated on Wednesday night. I just have not shown it. I cleaned it off but have not have had any interest to work on it again.
My general method would be to airbrush a line and blend it with colors but my hands have been shakier than normal this week. I do have powders, pigments and pan pastels I could try. My brain wasn’t thinking that but that should work.
It’s not a commission. It was given to me as a failed project from a client. It’s missing 1 tire and 1 lifting arm. The arm is easy to scratch make, that tire not so much. Just a poorly done effort before it was gifted. I started pulling it apart to start over yesterday, Friday. I had to soak parts of it in a bag of Isopropyl Alcohol. Lots of glue smears with the joints failing!
I should have the arm crafted next week. I’m not sure about the time line on making a new tire. Then I will paint and weather it. There is no room on the layout for a model this big. It’s one of those, let’s see what happens projects. It’s why my layout is more of a diorama than an operating railroad
I have a few things going on! 5 covered hoppers for Marlin39. 5 GN box cars for a friend, 3 well cars with one of them getting custom graffiti and 3 diesels for CamriaArea52’s thread on locomotive weathering.While I prefer decals for graffiti I can and do custom drawn graffiti.
I am not going to do a step by step because I always forget to get enough pictures for each step. But as I go through this unit you will get the idea! The victim, a sloppy but good enough masking job, done on both sides of the car. I use Tamiya masking tape and the Blue painters tape from the HD.
1st I sketch out the graffiti piece on paper sized for the space I have. 2nd I apply a background color to both sides. That’s a bit different but everyone needs a technique and this works for me. Not neatly done but good enough
This needs to dry a few hours. I will then do a gloss clear coat. Because I also want this cured it’s going into the dehydrator for at least 36 hours, probably more. I use lots of different applicators for graffiti.
I will use mechanical pencils to sketch out the piece on the car sides.
Then a fine Sharpie to outline some of it. Then I’ll grab a paint pen to fill it in.