Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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Ok, did some looking into Createx, and it seems to be a well-regarded brand by those who use it. In what I saw in reviews and photos, it appears to be geared toward painting vivid things, vivid colors and effects. I don’t know if their color palette is focused entirely toward that.

It looks like they make an opaque flat white; that and a flat yellow should get you a good fade on that center rib car.
 
What do y'all do for fades? I've tried a few different whites, and most recently Createx Transparent White, and still ending up with really blotchy/frosty/speckled looking coverage on dark cars. I dilute. I make light passes. I thought this car came out ok (and the well behind it too), the pic makes it look worse than it does in person, but then when I sprayed the darker car behind it, it looked like I dusted it with flour. I have a few darker containers I did a week ago that I'm similarly unhappy with. I'm really frustrated and its killed my motivation lately. Tell me your secrets. View attachment 222432
C&Omtman gave some great pointers.

There are no secrets and I’ve mentioned that a few times over these pages. I started out writing my formulas down for each car so I could repeat it. You know what, every model is different and may react differently than the results you got using the exact formula on the previous car.

Frustration reigns surpreme. Don’t let a fade you don’t like get to you.

I always start out washing down the car. Most of the time with a drop or 2 of Dawn dishwashing soap but only because I think that is all my wife has ever purchased! Probably any brand will work. Clean and rinse in lukewarm water. I have found that the cleaning releases the mold lubricants that CAN affect the fading process.

If you go back to the early pages of this thread I give my process. But here is my latest version:

I use Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol about 10 to 20% flat white paint to the thinner. I spray below 20psi and I will spray, wait a minute or 5 and spray again doing as many as needed. I have over the years had many models coming out looking frosty, flour looking, hazy or splotchy white. I walk away…

But come back another day. I’ll remove the fade with either a high pressure (45+ PSI) air brush filled only with Isopropyl Alcohol or I’ll spritz it on, let it sit a minute and remove with an Isopropyl Alcohol wet mop brush.

Let everything dry, take my fade mixture and add a similar but lighter color than the model and add 1 maybe 2 drops and start the process again. Mix throughly!

Another way for the yellow car is find a yellow color similar to the model. Mix a drop or 2 of white to lighten the yellow in your bottle then add the thinner and spray.

I think if you ask 50 folks how they fade their models you’ll get 30 different answers. Most though are just differences in formulas.

I know nothing about Createx paints.

Light passes are required but you know that already.

For your yellow Centerbeam, yes I agree with you, too much white but I’d leave it. Spray the car next with your grime color. Treat it like adding the fade, 10 to 20% grime color to your thinner. Spray thinly, let it dry than decide on the results or spray again.

Ok, I went and looked up Createx paints. They are water colors. I don’t think my process would change but I’d make sure you use the thinner that Createx suggests for their paints.

For my paints I have:

Tamiya Arcylics that I thin with Isopropyl Alcohol. But I do have the Tamiya thinner

Vallejo paint. I use Air, Model Color and Panzer Aces I mostly thin with tap water. BUT I rarely spray Vallejo but use it for hand brushing. When I do spray Vallejo Air even though it says it’s not needed I thin it with Vallejo’s thinner.

Ammo by Mig. I have only use the thinner from Ammo

Craft paints, mainly thinned with water

Badger, Tru Color and others I use Mr Hobby thinner

I love yellow to weather. I dislike brown or dark green.


Moonlighting…

Just keep asking questions. Adjust your PSI, play with thinning the paints, write it down. You’ll find what works for you.

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I shipped out yesterday before 5pm and the post office closed 36 Intermodal containers and chassis. Not much to see but these were done in early May and late April for the JPHunt units for delivery the last week in June. Just a light dusting of grime and touches of rust streaking. The fade was basically via the cleaning of the containers with isopropyl Alcohol.
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The JB Hunt photos are a third batch of 10 all done in April and shipped to 4 clients. All done at the same time and very similar in appearance. So I reused the photos. I do not take individual photos of containers, just batch pictures
Next
 


What do I use for pigments, do I use enamels, what paint brands do you use besides Tamiya and Vallejo Aryclic paints? I received these questions this week.

Paints are Tamiya for airbrushing. Vallejo for hand brushing and occasionally I will spray Vallejo Air. I have others including Abeitlung502 oils.

I have been experimenting with Ammo by MiG for maybe 16 months. I’m not consistent enough even after using them on my own equipment to use them on a client commission. These seem more like a thin ink than a pigment paint. A decision on those is still not final but is trending negative

I do have some craft paints I used to use for structures, backdrops and scenery but I have not used them in a few years.

Pigments are AK Interactive and Vallejo. I do have a bottle of light rust pigment from Abteilung but I cannot tell the difference from the Vallejo new rust pigment

Enamel weathering products are from AK Interactive. I have some old Testor enamels that while still good in the bottles I have not used them this century

The final question was when do you use them and how do you decide? Sometimes on commissions the clients asks me to use certain colors or an effect. Then I’ll pick what has worked for me before. Bumpy rust will make me pull out the bottle from Vallejo pigments. For most rust streaking using Vallejo Air burnt umber works well for me. But AK Interactive’s rust streaking has worked really well for me on covered hoppers.

YMMV

Hope this helps
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ha Tom

I almost have the same setup but no tamiya colors. Maybe one day i get some of those. i also airbrush all my Vallejo air colors. maybe i should also try to hand brush them. i mean i really have to start trying to weather some cars. its so cool to make something looking plastic, looking realistic. but i would say weathering is "easy to understand, hard to master!" but somewhere you have to start.

Well i do have some old cheap boxcars, i could maybe try out my abt502 oils. or all my enamels from AK :D

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Now that i look at this picture, iam asking myself, why do i have so much earth tone colors xD
 
ha Tom

I almost have the same setup but no tamiya colors. Maybe one day i get some of those. i also airbrush all my Vallejo air colors. maybe i should also try to hand brush them. i mean i really have to start trying to weather some cars. its so cool to make something looking plastic, looking realistic. but i would say weathering is "easy to understand, hard to master!" but somewhere you have to start.

Well i do have some old cheap boxcars, i could maybe try out my abt502 oils. or all my enamels from AK :D

View attachment 223202

Now that i look at this picture, iam asking myself, why do i have so much earth tone colors xD
You have so many earth tone colors because in the real world that’s what we see all day.

I don’t advocate a particular line of paints as I believe that all of them have benefits. For some its price, availability in their area, consistency of the pigment, the fine nature of the pigment and for some its color choices. I also have Mission, Badger, Army Painter and Tru-color paints, maybe a couple or 3 bottles of each and especially with Mission I fine little difference from Vallejo. I find Vallejo to be extremely versatile.

I have found for me that Tamiya gives me great control, has very good pigment, is very mixable and sprays well. Vallejo is very similar except it doesn’t always spray well for ME (ymmv) even after I thin it. I have never found that perfect formula that allows me to spray Vallejo Air without tip dry. I can’t remember a dry tip with Tamiya.

If I had to pick one choice of paints though I would go with the oils. I really like for weathering the Abteilung502 line. The Windsor Newton artist line also is exceptional but Abteilung502 is what I am sticking with. As I move towards getting out of commission weathering on a big scale ( I will still weather for current clients and friends) I will be doing more work in the oils. Right now for commission work oils are just too slow. Most of my own fleet is weathered with oils.
 
I’ve been missing in action because of a few things. I have cut back on my weathering commissions and since my return from out travels in May and June there have been no freight cars to weather and show. That will change as I have received some tanks cars to lightly weathered from a client who has no issue with me posting pictures of his cars.

As you know most of my commissions are weathered using Arcylics from Tamiya and Vallejo. I am a huge fan of Boomer Diorama and his techniques he uses. While my techniques have changed over the few years this thread has been alive they are still basically the same that I have been using since I started weathering commissions prior to COVID. I have updated occasionally how I currently am doing things. Well Boomer did a video on his techniques. I think it’s worth viewing as it gives his ways of using Arcylics.



I hope you get something from it
 
Good afternoon

Here’s something different for me lately. Weathering a few box cars or actually re-doing the previous weathering

These are a work in progress

Roofs being re-done as these 3 never sat right with me. They were previously weathered but they just were missing something

First up I used a mop brush to water down the roof

Used a 50/50 mix of water with #71.069 Model Air Rust. Dabbed the color on let dry

2nd I used that mop brush as I added some water to roof to basically just dampen it

Using a 50/50 mix of water to Panzer Aces #302 dark rust I dabbed the paint mix on the roof and let it dry about 30 minutes

Finally I used a 50/50 mix of water to Panzer Aces #301 Light Rust to the roof. No I did not dampen the roof this time. Instead of dabbing I used light brush strokes.

All products so far are from the Vallejo paint lines

These are drying and I will come back to them later as I move onto some ethanol tank car tags!

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This is a perfect example of no car or in this case 3 cars weather the same. Same products, same technique and a very different result. When this has dried a couple hours I will grab a color and add it to the roof

Be well
 
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I posted the previous pictures only a few minutes ago but it’s actually 4:30pm now. Those cars have dried for almost 3 hours and were plenty dried. So let’s add Brush applied clear matte coat to just the roofs


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I guess I have forgotten basics like DO NOT USE ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL based products on Vallejo paints. I thinned 50/50 Tamiya xf86 flat clear with 91% IPA. DON’T do it. Clearly marked it’s thinned with IPA. I just wasn’t thinking…

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Fixable, absolutely but boy I’m ticked off…
 


…I guess I have forgotten basics like DO NOT USE ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL based products on Vallejo paints. I thinned 50/50 Tamiya xf86 flat clear with 91% IPA. DON’T do it. Clearly marked it’s thinned with IPA. I just wasn’t thinking…



Fixable, absolutely but boy I’m ticked off…

Ironically, your last post before this weekend’s posts presented Boomer Diorama’s approach on this very subject.

Well, rather, he covered the flip side of it, that water-based acrylics can go on top of alcohol-based acrylics without harm.

I’ve started in on my wood reefers project, and am going to have to step carefully to avoid a similar outcome.
 
Ironically, your last post before this weekend’s posts presented Boomer Diorama’s approach on this very subject.

Well, rather, he covered the flip side of it, that water-based acrylics can go on top of alcohol-based acrylics without harm.

I’ve started in on my wood reefers project, and am going to have to step carefully to avoid a similar outcome.

Yes I saw his You Tube.
 
Yes I saw his You Tube.

It was actually that video of his that has allowed me to take on more complex weathering efforts:

I’ve heretofore had difficulty building layered weathering schemes - it’s possible to do some, with the airbrush; airbrushed paint treads lightly enough that it’s possible to airbrush an alcohol or a laquer over a water acrylic, etc. - but I have difficulty hand-brushing even a water-based acrylic over another water-based acrylic, let alone brushing an alcohol-based on top.

So, after digesting Boomer Diorama’s video, I’ve taken to airbrushing Tamiya XF-86 over my work with Vallejo/Mission Models if more hand-brushing is slated to be done over the first layer. It provides a barrier between two layers of Vallejo, or other paints that that I don’t expect to work and play well together. Testors’ Dullcote serves much the same purpose. (I’m out of Dullcote, so I’m learning to work with the XF-86.)

I’m doing this on my wood reefers. Progress report forthcoming.
 
So, over the weekend and a rare day off today, I finally got around to my wood reefers (1920s-1930s) that gad been patiently waiting for a number of months.

I have four. Here they are in the as-received condition:
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Schlitz Beer (Atlas), Borden/Eagle Brand milk (Atlas), Narragansett Ale, and Baby Ruth/Butterfinger candies (Micro-Trains)

As I mentioned in my foregoing post, these will be alternating alcohol/water/alcohol layers.

But first, a closer look:

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Like my first wood box cars/reefers, these will have a fair amount of hand-brushed work.

But to start, I knocked off the gloss with an airbrushed coat of Tamiya XF-86. (Thinned to about a 60:40 ratio of clear coat to thinner) The various body yellows were already nice and flat, but the decaling was rather glossy; but it can be seen in the photos only on the Narragansett Ale car in the first photo.

Here is a group photo post-flatcoating:

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Notice I took out the bottom of only the three Atlas cars; the Micro-Trains Baby Ruth has the turnbuckle structure, and I wasn’t confident that I could get it out intact. So in it stays

The only car I decided to give an overall fade to was the Schlitz Beer car; it was too dark for me. My fade mixture was 24 drops of Vallejo Air white to one drop of Badger Erie Lackawanna yellow:

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I’m going to stop right here for this post. I have to apologize for the photo quality in this post; on my phone, the colors are rich and vibrant, but that didn’t carry over to the uploads. I found out that I had the iPhone “Live” setting on when taking the photos, and that makes the pictures essentially very brief videos, and the first frame always has washed out colors.
 
Ok, moving along: my previous batch of wood reefers/boxes were weathered with thin washes, the purpose was to achieve their effect largely by accumulating in the molded-in plank lines.

I used three washes then: faded yellow, green for mild wood deterioration, and brown for grime. This time, I am going with just the yellow and the green. The Atlas cars gave brown in the plank lines, and I decided that was sufficient.

For the yellow, I just thinned the remaining yellow body fade. For the green, I used Vallejo Gunship Green (same as last time), but this time mixed 1:1 with white, to achieve a more subtle effect.

I took photos this time without the iPhone Live feature:

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And these already have had the XF-86 airbrushed over the hand-brushed work.

I have to admit to still being disappointed in the way the photos appear after upload.

I notice tgat the uploaded file size is 30% of the original - that used to not happen. I tested a photo I uploaded in the past, and it still uploads at full file size.

Can anyone offer some insight there?
 
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Ok, moving along: my previous batch of wood reefers/boxes were weathered with thin washes, the purpose was to achieve their effect largely by accumulating in the molded-in plank lines.

I used three washes then: faded yellow, green for mild wood deterioration, and brown for grime. This time, I am going with just the yellow and the green. The Atlas cars gave brown in the plank lines, and I decided that was sufficient.

For the yellow, I just thinned the remaining yellow body fade. For the green, I used Vallejo Gunship Green (same as last time), but this time mixed 1:1 with white, to achieve a more subtle effect.

I took photos this time without the iPhone Live feature:

View attachment 233778
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And these already have had the XF-86 airbrushed over the hand-brushed work.

I have to admit to still being disappointed in the way the photos appear after upload.

I notice tgat the uploaded file size is 30% of the original - that used to not happen. I tested a photo I uploaded in the past, and it still uploads at full file size.

Can anyone offer some insight there?
In my experience, it is all about the lighting.

Also, consider the device you (we) are viewing on.

Even the light in my train shed varies depending on the natural light coming through two small windows. And the proximity to my ceiling lights.
 
In my experience, it is all about the lighting.

Also, consider the device you (we) are viewing on.

Even the light in my train shed varies depending on the natural light coming through two small windows. And the proximity to my ceiling lights.

Yeah, but that’s not it. I take the photos, view them in my photos app, upload them to the forum and view them in the forum on the same device.

And there is a distinct loss of color fidelity between the forum and what is on my phone.

Here: I took a screenshot. This is a side-by side comparison via screen grab of my photograph (right side) vs how it looks when displayed from this forum:

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It is easiest to see with the three top cars (all Atlas colors)

Since both come from the same photograph, it should go without saying that lighting doesn’t enter into it.

Here is another side-by side:
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Again, two looks at the same photo from a screenshot: direct screenshot on the right, as viewed via forum on the left. The difference should be a little bit easier to see on this one. The disappointing thing is that in both of these side-by-side comparisons, despite being able to see the differences, none are as bright as the original photo from whence it came, because the uploaded screenshot is undergoing the same compression that is afflicting the other photos I have uploaded. The reason you can see difference between left & right is that the right side has undergone this compression once, but the left side has undergone it a second time.
 

I fixed it, will post something Tuesday
So, over the weekend and a rare day off today, I finally got around to my wood reefers (1920s-1930s) that gad been patiently waiting for a number of months.

I have four. Here they are in the as-received condition:
View attachment 233766

Schlitz Beer (Atlas), Borden/Eagle Brand milk (Atlas), Narragansett Ale, and Baby Ruth/Butterfinger candies (Micro-Trains)

As I mentioned in my foregoing post, these will be alternating alcohol/water/alcohol layers.

But first, a closer look:

View attachment 233767

View attachment 233768

Like my first wood box cars/reefers, these will have a fair amount of hand-brushed work.

But to start, I knocked off the gloss with an airbrushed coat of Tamiya XF-86. (Thinned to about a 60:40 ratio of clear coat to thinner) The various body yellows were already nice and flat, but the decaling was rather glossy; but it can be seen in the photos only on the Narragansett Ale car in the first photo.

Here is a group photo post-flatcoating:

View attachment 233769

Notice I took out the bottom of only the three Atlas cars; the Micro-Trains Baby Ruth has the turnbuckle structure, and I wasn’t confident that I could get it out intact. So in it stays

The only car I decided to give an overall fade to was the Schlitz Beer car; it was too dark for me. My fade mixture was 24 drops of Vallejo Air white to one drop of Badger Erie Lackawanna yellow:

View attachment 233770

I’m going to stop right here for this post. I have to apologize for the photo quality in this post; on my phone, the colors are rich and vibrant, but that didn’t carry over to the uploads. I found out that I had the iPhone “Live” setting on when taking the photos, and that makes the pictures essentially very brief videos, and the first frame always has washed out colors.


They look good to me
 
Yeah, but that’s not it. I take the photos, view them in my photos app, upload them to the forum and view them in the forum on the same device.

And there is a distinct loss of color fidelity between the forum and what is on my phone.

Here: I took a screenshot. This is a side-by side comparison via screen grab of my photograph (right side) vs how it looks when displayed from this forum:

View attachment 233841

It is easiest to see with the three top cars (all Atlas colors)

Since both come from the same photograph, it should go without saying that lighting doesn’t enter into it.

Here is another side-by side:View attachment 233849

Again, two looks at the same photo from a screenshot: direct screenshot on the right, as viewed via forum on the left. The difference should be a little bit easier to see on this one. The disappointing thing is that in both of these side-by-side comparisons, despite being able to see the differences, none are as bright as the original photo from whence it came, because the uploaded screenshot is undergoing the same compression that is afflicting the other photos I have uploaded. The reason you can see difference between left & right is that the right side has undergone this compression once, but the left side has undergone it a second time.


I can see the difference. I take pictures usually using my IPadPro instead of my IPhone.
 


I fixed it, will post something Tuesday


They look good to me

Thanks, I appreciate that.

Worked on being more subtle with the applied effects.

I’m not finished with them yet - I still have mud splash, roof soot/grime, and ladder grime/rust to go.
 
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