Jerome's Switcher Roster


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I would take Jerome's switchers or other diesels any day of the week before I took a RTR....lol believe me I know....I have 6 of them from him with Mark's elect work too...
 
This has to be the most Athearn SW's I've seen in one place, Jerome! Always loved the old SW1500s. :D

I've had 3 (2 SW1500 powered and a 1000 dummy) since I can remember. At one time the 1500's had Ernst gears, but I took them out for some reason.

A few years back, I bought an undecorated SW1500 shell and started work on it to resemble North Shore RR #2317. It's an old Southern unit that has the air filter box in front of the cab, so I did some cutting and scratch building on it. I'll take some pics of it in the next couple of days and post them here, if you don't mind.
 
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Alcomotive said:
I would take Jerome's switchers or other diesels any day of the week before I took a RTR....lol believe me I know....I have 6 of them from him with Mark's elect work too...
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James, thank you for the kind words. I do enjoy making my little critters. ;)
 
GlassTrain said:
This has to be the most Athearn SW's I've seen in one place, Jerome! Always loved the old SW1500s. :D

I've had 3 (2 SW1500 powered and a 1000 dummy) since I can remember. At one time the 1500's had Ernst gears, but I took them out for some reason.

A few years back, I bought an undecorated SW1500 shell and started work on it to resemble North Shore RR #2317. It's an old Southern unit that has the air filter box in front of the cab, so I did some cutting and scratch building on it. I'll take some pics of it in the next couple of days and post them here, if you don't mind.
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Ron, I'm trying to get the worlds record for switchers!!!! LOL Where about's in Illinois are you from?? I grew up in Aurora until I joined the Air Force back in 82'. Post any pictures you'd like. I love seeing what other people do with there critters as I call them.
 
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diburning said:
I meant a custom painted RTR model. I like the details on them better.
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I'm on the fence about the RTR SW1500's. I still can't get any type of paint to stick to the handrails when I do a custom paint job. Kinda detracts from the over-all look when you have chipped paint all down the handrails. But as far as detail, the radiator and interior is the only real difference that I can't duplicate with an old BB unit.
 
wheeler1963 said:
Ron, I'm trying to get the worlds record for switchers!!!! LOL Where about's in Illinois are you from?? I grew up in Aurora until I joined the Air Force back in 82'. Post any pictures you'd like. I love seeing what other people do with there critters as I call them.
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You're probably pretty close to the record! ;)

I'm living in East Peoria. Grew up for the most part in Galesburg, however.
 
wheeler1963 said:
Brad, you can go 2 ways on this one. If you want the entire walkways and steps done, use the Cannon kit you had listed. If you only want to do the steps, use this A-Line kit.

http://www.1stplacehobbies.com/cgi-bin/p_116-29255_n.asp

I did Carl's CP SW1500 before Cannon released that new walkway kit so I just did the steps on his RTR unit.

101_0423.jpg


101_0435.jpg


101_0502.jpg


What Rail Road are you going to do them in???
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I am going to go with the Norfolk and Western that we talked about before. I just can't get this model out of my head so I figured I would give it a try. Those Canon details are nice, and I assume that on the one you did you had to cut the old steps out first and then glue in the detailed ones right?

As far as the diamond plating in the Canon kit, I am confused. Would you just glue these down on the existing surface? I would think that this would leave you with a visible edge?

View attachment 22066
 
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NWCanuck said:
I am going to go with the Norfolk and Western that we talked about before. I just can't get this model out of my head so I figured I would give it a try. Those Canon details are nice, and I assume that on the one you did you had to cut the old steps out first and then glue in the detailed ones right?

As far as the diamond plating in the Canon kit, I am confused. Would you just glue these down on the existing surface? I would think that this would leave you with a visible edge?

View attachment 22066
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Brad, cut the old steps out but leave a 1/16" edge for them to rest on. Then glue them on after bending them to the correct shape. There are 2 sizes of front and back. The front steps are a hair wider, follow the instructions to the letter. I goofed up once or twice before I realized there is a difference in the sizes.

As for the diamond plating, lightly sand the back surfaces of all of the Cannon kit "before" you cut them off of the spur. Then lightly sand your walkways on the shell before any paint goes on. The edge you are thinking would show is so small, it's hardly noticeable (see pic. below).

100_5163.jpg
 
wheeler1963 said:
Brad, cut the old steps out but leave a 1/16" edge for them to rest on. Then glue them on after bending them to the correct shape. There are 2 sizes of front and back. The front steps are a hair wider, follow the instructions to the letter. I goofed up once or twice before I realized there is a difference in the sizes.

As for the diamond plating, lightly sand the back surfaces of all of the Cannon kit "before" you cut them off of the spur. Then lightly sand your walkways on the shell before any paint goes on. The edge you are thinking would show is so small, it's hardly noticeable (see pic. below).
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That looks great Jerome, and the Canon Details are worth the extra effort judging by the photo. I have never work with and Athearn model before and before I get started I have one question about which type of glue you use. Obviously CA for the brass to plastic, but what brand are you using for plastic to plastic.

I have been using Testors liquid cement for almost everything I do, but find it reacts differently between plastic of different brand models. Some it really softens and others like Atlas plastic, it hardy reacts. Thanks again for all your help.
 
NWCanuck said:
That looks great Jerome, and the Canon Details are worth the extra effort judging by the photo. I have never work with and Athearn model before and before I get started I have one question about which type of glue you use. Obviously CA for the brass to plastic, but what brand are you using for plastic to plastic.

I have been using Testors liquid cement for almost everything I do, but find it reacts differently between plastic of different brand models. Some it really softens and others like Atlas plastic, it hardy reacts. Thanks again for all your help.
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Brad, I use "Gorilla" super glue (Wal-Mart) for almost everything I do. If it's a very difficult piece or wood, then I use Walthers "GOO". The walkway you see on my slug was all made using there walkway stock. I had to cut all of the pieces to make the ends.
 
Here it is. It needs detailed, painted, and decals right now.

The chassis under it runs really well for such an old locomotive. Nice slow speed. Something I haven't figured out is the best way to keep the side frames on the trucks. They seem to fall off every now and then.
 
Ron, I like it. It has the large box in front of the cab. You don't see too many SW1500's with that detail, mainly MP15's. Very good start. Do you have a prototype your building it after?

The more those sideframes get taken on and off, the loser they get. What I do it cut a notch on each side of the pin (don't remove any plastic) let the plastic curl outwards. That usually dose the trick. If not, and your ready for final assembly, use a bit of Walthers GOO glue. But it'll not come out very easy after that!!
 
GlassTrain said:
Here it is. It needs detailed, painted, and decals right now.

The chassis under it runs really well for such an old locomotive. Nice slow speed. Something I haven't figured out is the best way to keep the side frames on the trucks. They seem to fall off every now and then.
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Ron this looks great,

View attachment 22146

and you are 3/4 of the way to where I am trying to get:

View attachment 22145

What do you think... Every roster needs a little N&W in the mix?
 
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NWCanuck said:
Ron this looks great,

View attachment 22146

and you are 3/4 of the way to where I am trying to get:

View attachment 22145

What do you think... Every roster needs a little N&W in the mix?
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Brad, you want me to knock one out? Take about a week. ;)

GlassTrain said:
Jerome,

Here is a pic of the prototype North Shore 2317 that I'm going for.

http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=105319&nseq=22

Originally it was Southern 2317R, then Norfolk Southern 2317:

Ron, you'll have to describe how you made the box. I'd be interested in that.

http://www.nslocos.com/ns2317.html

Thanks for the idea about notching the pins! I see the idea. Cutting into the pin with a blade makes it bigger by spreading out the plastic. :D
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Works on any BB Athearn plastic side frame, especially the used ones off ebay. LOL

Alcomotive said:
Jerome...how is it going with the SW10s for UP? Any progress? or still accumulating parts?
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James, oh it's on the back burner with the IC SW14, the UP TR5's, and about 100 others. :rolleyes:
 
GlassTrain said:
Here it is. It needs detailed, painted, and decals right now.

The chassis under it runs really well for such an old locomotive. Nice slow speed. Something I haven't figured out is the best way to keep the side frames on the trucks. They seem to fall off every now and then.
Click to expand...

I like that unit as it would be perfect for a CSOR unit I want to model someday. Jerome are you up to the task? LOL

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=380724
 
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