Ho Scale CP Layout Build, A Continuous Thread

[HO Scale MILW]

Hi all, this is a continuous thread that I hope to keep going for the next year and a half, pertaining my building of a Wisconsin based layout, going from Milwaukee to Hartland. Currently I am in the planning phase, crunching numbers, making sketches. Over the next year and a half, I'll post periodic updates showing my progress in the building stages. I hope to have the building stage started in June. Hope anyone following this thread gets some good info on what does/doesn't work for me and gets some good enjoyment out of watching me struggle over building a big layout!

 

[TLOC]

Always great to follow along another Wisconsin based railroad layout build. Any specifics?

 

[HO Scale MILW]

Always great to follow along another Wisconsin based railroad layout build. Any specifics?

Well, it is going to be based in the early 2000s, new enough to have modern power, but yet still ok to have 4 axel road units. In real life from Pewaukee to Hartland, it's only single track, however for operating purposes I can't do that. Due to space reasons I am not able to add in some streets and some buildings. Probably the most disappointing part of building in a small-ish space is that in Brookfeild, (near Pewaukee) the tracks separate for a bit and the Brookfeild station is in between the two mainlines. Due to the yard being only a few feet down the tracks, I don't think it would be wise to separate the mainlines. Where is your layout based off of?

 

[HO Scale MILW]

Here is a quick layout plan I made in Google Draw. I'll make a more detailed one in some software closer to when I get started to building.
The door to enter the layout room is in the bottom left and there is like a 3 ft entrance-way before getting to the layout so it'll be a duck under.

 

[kleiner]

Looks promising! I would suggest getting a package like 3rd PlanIt for designing your layout once you progress beyond the high-level sketches. I created at least a couple dozen designs before settling on a final track plan

 

[HO Scale MILW]

Hi all, just an update on the layout. So, due to costs of building a larger layout, I have decided that it is not going to be based off the area that it was originally going to. Instead, I came up with a fictional town in Northeast Wisconsin, called Northern Valley. The layout will include a small town, a 2 track yard, a small pine forest, an old farmhouse, a marsh, and abandoned railroad scene.

 

[BigGRacing]

Looking forward to watching the build for sure, have fun is most important!

 

[HO Scale MILW]

Here is the updated track plan

 

[HO Scale MILW]

Looking forward to watching the build for sure, have fun is most important!

Agreed! Layout build will start next summer. In the planning phase currently. This thread will follow my entire layout building process from start to end.

 

[HO Scale MILW]

A Question of Trees
Does anyone have experience with Bachmann's Scene Scapes Trees? If so, on a scale of 1 to 10, how good are they? I know they are kinda expensive so I want to know how good they are before I buy them!

 

[TLOC]

Well, it is going to be based in the early 2000s, new enough to have modern power, but yet still ok to have 4 axel road units. In real life from Pewaukee to Hartland, it's only single track, however for operating purposes I can't do that. Due to space reasons I am not able to add in some streets and some buildings. Probably the most disappointing part of building in a small-ish space is that in Brookfeild, (near Pewaukee) the tracks separate for a bit and the Brookfeild station is in between the two mainlines. Due to the yard being only a few feet down the tracks, I don't think it would be wise to separate the mainlines. Where is your layout based off of?

Thanks for the information. You’ll need to include the open air mall where Hiawatha Hobbies is located in Pewaukee.

I was modeling Central Wisconsin in the year 2015. Specifically from Junction City north to Wausau on the CN Valley Sub. My major paper mill was modeled as a composite of Mills in Wi. Rapids, Mosinee, Rothschild and Brokaw.

There are IMO many tree makers better then Bachman. I have only seen a few Bachman trees and they had imitation terrible looking snow on them. But $42 for 24 trees 2-4” tall on today on Amazon is too much IMO for such a small tree.

But, how many trees do you think you need? Are you looking for a good tree that is taller and a better shape. Make you own…

As the guys in the Diner will tell you I prefer to make my own wire armature trees. But, I am retired and have time. I look forward to following

along. I am located in Verona outside of Madison

 

[HO Scale MILW]

I do need a good filling of trees, so I was thinking about the 24 pack.... I do agree, the snow trees look terrible! I have been to Hiawatha in the past on a trip and they have great customer service!

 

[HO Scale MILW]

The armature trees look real good as well, I have tried that in the past but they turned out pretty bad.

 

[TLOC]

I do need a good filling of trees, so I was thinking about the 24 pack.... I do agree, the snow trees look terrible! I have been to Hiawatha in the past on a trip and they have great customer service!

I consider Hiawatha Hobbies a LHS but 70 miles away. The Madison Hobby Stop is 4 miles away. Lombard Hobbies is 110 miles away outside of Chicago. Agree on Hiawatha customer service.

My last tree suggestion. Do not buy any trees until the track is in, tested and you are happy with it. Oncevthe track is laided there are lots of landscaping change

 

[HO Scale MILW]

Quick question, what does LHS mean other than Left Hand Side?

 

[santafewillie]

Quick question, what does LHS mean other than Left Hand Side?

Local Hobby Store

 

[HO Scale MILW]

ooooohhhhhh

 

[HO Scale MILW]

Layout Lighting Process
It's that time of year again! Modeling Season! With the dead of winter coming, and a new layout being built, I think it's time for an update! A few days ago I purchased online some Woodland Senics Just Plug Lighting kits. I'm sure many folks reading this who have layout lighting, have experienced light bleeding through the walls of your buildings. I figured this would happen with my buildings, so here is my very simple, very cheap, way to overcome this. The things you'll need is a soft paintbrush, thick black paint, parchment paper, and zero painting experience (Un-necessary to have zero experience. Any amount will do fine). The first thing you're going to need to do is remove the roof of the building that you are doing this on. Put large paint drops in varying places on the walls of your building, be sure to keep clear of the windows. Also do this on the roof, and make sure you get all the edges. It would be best to do this before painting the exterior of the building but if you have already done that you could make touch-ups afterwards. After letting the paint dry, cut out pieces of the parchment paper that are slightly bigger than the windows, and put small drops of super-glue on the edges of said piece of paper, then put the parchment paper over the window. Do this for all windows in the building. After doing this reassemble the roof of the building and make sure there are no cracks in the roof joints.

This should be the final product, you can see on the left a building without the painted interior, and with on on the right.
I highly recommend the just plug system. A starter kit will cost you about $18 depending on where you get it, and the power plug will be about $20.
The just plug system is a great way to get into lighting and adding life to your model railway. On my upcoming layout build I plan to use this system!

 

[Smudge617]

Layout Lighting Process
It's that time of year again! Modeling Season! With the dead of winter coming, and a new layout being built, I think it's time for an update! A few days ago I purchased online some Woodland Senics Just Plug Lighting kits. I'm sure many folks reading this who have layout lighting, have experienced light bleeding through the walls of your buildings. I figured this would happen with my buildings, so here is my very simple, very cheap, way to overcome this. The things you'll need is a soft paintbrush, thick black paint, parchment paper, and zero painting experience (Un-necessary to have zero experience. Any amount will do fine). The first thing you're going to need to do is remove the roof of the building that you are doing this on. Put large paint drops in varying places on the walls of your building, be sure to keep clear of the windows. Also do this on the roof, and make sure you get all the edges. It would be best to do this before painting the exterior of the building but if you have already done that you could make touch-ups afterwards. After letting the paint dry, cut out pieces of the parchment paper that are slightly bigger than the windows, and put small drops of super-glue on the edges of said piece of paper, then put the parchment paper over the window. Do this for all windows in the building. After doing this reassemble the roof of the building and make sure there are no cracks in the roof joints.

View attachment 159998
This should be the final product, you can see on the left a building without the painted interior, and with on on the right.
I highly recommend the just plug system. A starter kit will cost you about $18 depending on where you get it, and the power plug will be about $20.
The just plug system is a great way to get into lighting and adding life to your model railway. On my upcoming layout build I plan to use this system!

Nicely done, I don't use lighting kits myself, but there's certainly nothing wrong with them if that's the route you prefer.

 

[HO Scale MILW]

Back on the topic of trees, I have found a company called JTT Senics. They make somewhat expensive trees but I haven't been even closely disappointed with them. I am not super fond of their 'value' pine trees, but their 'Super Senic' Juniper Pines look great. I know that my layout building process isn't until maybe July, but I am very much thinking about what I want it to look like.

Here are some Inspiration photos of Northern Wisconsin, where the layout is based off of.

Here is also what the JTT trees look like. They are 7.5-8 Inches and are O scale models. Because the trees in this area are very tall, these should be perfect. What are everyone else's thoughts?