Bascule Bridge Project


George
Glad you figured it out!
Building the bridge wont be the whole project, you’ll need to make abutments to mount it on, I used thick styrene and bricksheet.
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So Rico I tested the bridge this morning and it works. I'm amazed by that? Now whether or not the close track alignment tolerance needed will work on the layout? I doubt it. My lift out works because the tracks are aligned perfectly when the left out is in place. I'm not so sure about this plastic bridge doing the same. We'll see what happens?
 
I made some piers and started the installation today. The code 83 track I ordered 3 weeks ago is still not here so there's only so much I can do until that arrives.
George

Bascule_Bridge_Project_31.jpg
 
Nice job. Wish I had been able to find a way to utilize my kitbash dbl-track version.

I am likely going to be selling my 2 since I have decided to use a double-tracked swing bridge
 
Thanks everyone for your comments.
So I guess if the bridge is actually going to work I'll need to power the portion of track that's going to be raised. On a simple test run some cars seem to go over the break in track fine. I can't think of any other place to solder the feeder wires. I still have my doubts about it working when installed but we'll see what happens?

George

Bascule_Bridge_Project_33.jpg
 
So my bascule bridge project is 98% done. I'm amazed that it all works. I only have a 3 foot section of track after the bridge for now because other bridges have to be built and installed. I've tested some engine power crossing the bridge and everything works fine, I had to add 2 very small guides on the far end to align the bridge as it drops into place. There are 2 micro switches that cut that power for the up and down motion. 1 in the motor house the other imbedded in the far abutment. I have one DPDT switch to control the up & down direction and 1 SP to cut the power in case of an emergence. If you plan on building the bridge I would tell you not to solder the diode's to the micro switches. Run the 3 wires form the switches under the layout somewhere and then add the diodes there. It's very easy to install theses backwards and very hard to change if there soldered to the embedded switches. I added a strobe light but it's hardly visible in the video.

George

 
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Thanks everyone. I forgot to mention I had to add a weight to the counter weight. The counter weight had to be cut because it hit the track when the bridge was in the open position. I'm not sure why this happens but it does. After I cut it down some I cut a 1 X 3 down to fit snuggly in the counter weight's chamber. Then I took 1/2 of a old engine weight and fastened it to the wood with a screw. I tired a few different weights but that seem to work the best. The bridge did not run smoothly with out this added weight. When I'm done with the connecting bridges I'll do a video with a full train crossing the bridge.
George
 
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