Bascule Bridge Project


NYC_George

Well-Known Member
I've been thinking about a project that will keep me busy a few months this winter and a bascule bridge project just may do the trick.
I plan on adding it to my upper deck. I did a little research and found this interesting video on how the real one in Port Huron, Michigan works.
This video has outstanding animation on how the bridge is raised and lowered.

George

Pere Marquette Railroad Bridge, Port Huron, Michigan - YouTube
 
So my Bascule Bridge came today and I can see you can be easily overwhelmed at all the gluing that's going to be taking place in the next few days. It's not easy gluing either. So I'll go slow and see what happens. Glue #2 to #4 and that was hard enough. The pieces don't lock in.
George

Bascule_Bridge_Project_01.jpg
 
And I am talking the real MEK, not the stuff sold at big box stores as 'MEK substitute' . It is toxic if you look it up,...avoid breathing it in general. I had to go to a boat supply store to find a quart size can. Paint store only had gallon size,...way TOO MUCH.
 
At 1am last night I unknowingly installed the header latticework beams in backwards. I when to bed and realized it when I woke up.
I thought now what? They have to be removed and I know they'll be ruined. So I thought maybe the bridge designer decided to use straight steel support beams rather the latticework ones. Stronger with all the lifting. I made the new beams out of styrene and when their painted no one will know any better.

George

Bascule_Bridge_Project_08.jpg
Bascule_Bridge_Project_09.jpg
 
I 2nd the thought on using a solvent cement for this instead of super glue. I also use MEK (not MEK substitute) for gluing plastic . It less toxic than Weld On, Same Stuff or Tenax and works almost as well. Unless the surfaces are very well prepared, I find super glue doesn't hold as well on plastic and a big bridge isn't the place I'd want it to let go.

It doesn't take much MEK, just run a wet brush along a tight fitting (clamped) joint and it will hold. Sometimes wetting the surfaces first will cause a little bead of styrene to squish out when pressure is applied. The bead can be sanded off and no filler is needed to get a nice joint.
 
I'm now thinking about skipping the motorized portion of the bridge. I have so many other things to get done with the other bridges that should be here Monday. I don't want to waste the time. You can't come back to installing the motor at a later date right?

George
 
I decided to try and install the bridge motor today but I'm stuck on how the gears in the instruction photo mesh together.
I guess at some point I'll catch on but right now I got nothing in mind.

George

Bascule_bridge_insturctions_motor_A3.jpg
Bascule_Bridge_Project_11.jpg
 
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Geez it’s been awhile, sorry I don’t remember George!
I do recall having to make two pins for the gear arms however.
Ill take a picture of mine when I get home tonight!
 
I'm very close to being done with the project expect for installing it on the layout. I finally figured out how all the gears mesh together. They all seem to work properly but I haven't raised the bridge yet. That's tomorrow. It's to late to do any testing tonight. Below are a few photos of the gear assembly to give future bascule builders something to go by.


Bascule_Bridge_Project_15.jpg

Bascule_Bridge_Project_16.jpg

Bascule_Bridge_Project_17.jpg
Bascule_Bridge_Project_18.jpg
 



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