Originally CSO Started with Ex Conrail B23-7's then they had a High Nose B23-7 and some B30-7's and a slug from the ISRR. Now they have 6 B40-8's, 1 SW1500 , and 2 Ex UP CEFX SD40-2's. The CSOR Switcher usually spends most of its time on the NECR in Palmer, MA and in return the CSOR has the NECR GP38 #3869 which is the only High Hood Railamerica painted unit on the NECR roster. I plan to have the entire CSO roster eventually as I am getting custom decals made for the Current CSOR units, switcher, and caboose.
Jerome's Switcher Roster
- Thread starter wheeler1963
- Start date
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Originally CSO Started with Ex Conrail B23-7's then they had a High Nose B23-7 and some B30-7's and a slug from the ISRR. Now they have 6 B40-8's, 1 SW1500 , and 2 Ex UP CEFX SD40-2's. The CSOR Switcher usually spends most of its time on the NECR in Palmer, MA and in return the CSOR has the NECR GP38 #3869 which is the only High Hood Railamerica painted unit on the NECR roster. I plan to have the entire CSO roster eventually as I am getting custom decals made for the Current CSOR units, switcher, and caboose.
NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
Brad, you want me to knock one out? Take about a week.
Well I already have two undecorated versions in RTR ready for the paint after I get the rest of the details on. And I would hate to waste your skills and time on such a small task.
I would however like to be the first and only kid on my block with one of these...
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Are you into the sctach building at all? If so name your price!
wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Ready when you get the decals my friend!! OK Mark, to help get you motivated. The first 2 are started. One for me, one for you.
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wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Well I already have two undecorated versions in RTR ready for the paint after I get the rest of the details on. And I would hate to waste your skills and time on such a small task.
I would however like to be the first and only kid on my block with one of these...
View attachment 22153
Are you into the sctach building at all? If so name your price!
Brad, looks like an ALCO S-something. What is it?
NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
It is the HO Scale hobby elusive Alco T6. There were only eight railroads that owned them with Norfolk and Western owning the most at 40 units. I can't see this ever being produced by a major manufacturer due to the obscure road names and railroads. I don’t think there is a Norfolk and Western modeler around that would not like to at least own one of these units.
There was a modeler who scratch built one and there is a picture of it in Kalambach’s "Coal Railroading" book. One of the very few I have ever seen. Here is the link to Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ALCO_T-6
And a few more side shots. A definite scratch build for sure. I am sure if there was a guy that could turn these things out on a limited basis, they could make a small fortune.
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And one more useful link:
http://dieseldetailer.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=acsw&action=display&thread=1256
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wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Brad, I can see why that would be a scratch built engine. It has the cab of an S unit, and the body of an RS unit. You'd have to sacrifice 2 engines to get one out of it.
NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
And that seems to be the wall that everyone that has even thought about it, hits. You would need and S2 Atlas chassis and cab, which is still available as an individual part (the cab I mean). But even then the S2 cab has right angles in the widows and the T6 has rounded corners and some of the windows are filled in or non-existent. There would be allot of modification required.
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But as for the RS11 body you would need to buy a locomotive because the shell, undecorated does not seem to be available on its own. So using the S2 chassis which is what the T6 is based on, you would need to cut down the RS11 hood to match the hood height of the T6. Then you have to find an after market mfg for the shorter doors and vents to match the details of the T6. Good luck finding Alco detail parts of the correct height and fit.
And that is the end of the T6 in HO scale. Sure would be nice if Atlas would modify the S2/RS11 molds and make a T6 for the fans, but that would cost $$$. The last HO Scale S2 was released in 2007, by Atlas so maybe they will run them again soon, which will at least give the basics for the rolling frame minus the details. Time will tell... without the basic S2 rolling chassis the cause is lost. This is a harder build, then one might think.
wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Brad, what is this one?? I am not real familiar with the ALCO models. I know it's an S-something. It's an Atlas I got way back, heavy beast too.
NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
That is an Alco S2 in Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac livery and was released by Atlas in 2004. That would be a good starting point for the T6. How does it run?
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The RS 11 is a good donor for the hood but it would need to be cut down about mid way between the doors. They would need to be sanded off and replaced with half doors. Maybe Canon and Co doors cut in half and spliced back together?
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The RS 11 is a good donor for the hood but it would need to be cut down about mid way between the doors. They would need to be sanded off and replaced with half doors. Maybe Canon and Co doors cut in half and spliced back together?
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NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
Hey Jerome just wonering if you know of anyone that makes this horn for the SW1500?
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I am also wondering what size bit you used to drill out the hand rails on the RTR version of the SW1500?
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I am also wondering what size bit you used to drill out the hand rails on the RTR version of the SW1500?
wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Brad, Looks like a Details West #175. I use it on most of my SW's. You shouldn't have to drill out the RTR holes. Just press them to fit with your thumbnail.
kbkchooch
"retired" conductor
How does like a ball bearing on glass sound?
I've got a few, 1st run (Yugoslavia) and 2nd run (China) All run so well! It's kinda amazing, cuz they run well together too. Made half a world away from each other, and they are perfect matches!
NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
Weird, because all of the other holes are pre drilled for the grab irons, but the side railings the holes do not go all the way throught the chassis to the top. I wish I could find my camera right now. There seems to be a thin layer of plastic on the top deck because the holes are visible when looking at the shell from the bottom. I just figured these were pilot holes. Either way I am going to have to make the holes go all the way through. There are also two holes that hold the interior to the shell along with the two shell weights. These holes also do not go all the way through the shell?
wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Weird, because all of the other holes are pre drilled for the grab irons, but the side railings the holes do not go all the way throught the chassis to the top. I wish I could find my camera right now. There seems to be a thin layer of plastic on the top deck because the holes are visible when looking at the shell from the bottom. I just figured these were pilot holes. Either way I am going to have to make the holes go all the way through. There are also two holes that hold the interior to the shell along with the two shell weights. These holes also do not go all the way through the shell?
Brad, I just pulled this one off of the shelf. It's an Athearn RTR SW1500. A #73 drill bit fits both the end railing hole and the stanchion holes.
wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Well I just finished up on these 5 critters. The newest edition to the Aurora & Portland's switcher fleet. #1201, 1202, 1204, 1205 and 1208. This version came with the SW1500R package and front and rear weed-cutter snow plows for cleaning the smaller industrial sidings.
And this is the A&P's entire "blue" switcher fleet. All updated with painted cab roofs and GPS domes now. #1200, 1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, 1205, 1206, 1207, 1208 and slug S-01.
And this is the A&P's entire "blue" switcher fleet. All updated with painted cab roofs and GPS domes now. #1200, 1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, 1205, 1206, 1207, 1208 and slug S-01.
NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
Jerome, do you have a close-up photo of a RTR 1500 with a top down view of the tread plates installed? I ask because I am a little confused on the spacing of the side plates in relation to the front plate. It seems the RTR version has deck mounted railings and the older version has side mounted railings (like the one in your picture) which are two different sets from Cannon.
I ask because if I put the side plates on and align them over the railing holes which I need to drill out still (need to pickup a new bit) there is a gap between the side plate and the front plate that wraps around the nose?
View attachment 22289
In the next photo you can see where I drilled out a small hole on the fourth notch in from left to right for test alignment. The front plate and the instructions say to mount it flush with the edge of the pilot and I assume to butt it up tight against the small piece over the pilot. It then says to butt the side pieces up to the front plate, but if I do that then the side pieces are over the holes?
View attachment 22290
I ask because if I put the side plates on and align them over the railing holes which I need to drill out still (need to pickup a new bit) there is a gap between the side plate and the front plate that wraps around the nose?
View attachment 22289
In the next photo you can see where I drilled out a small hole on the fourth notch in from left to right for test alignment. The front plate and the instructions say to mount it flush with the edge of the pilot and I assume to butt it up tight against the small piece over the pilot. It then says to butt the side pieces up to the front plate, but if I do that then the side pieces are over the holes?
View attachment 22290
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wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Brad, no I don't. I've never installed the walkway on a RTR yet. Have you tried swapping the side walkways around to the other side??
NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
Code:
I did try swapping them around but one is actually shorter then the other because of the steps into the cab. The spacing just seems to be off, but according to Cannon these are the treads for this model.
Do you have any idea what these two grey plastic pieces are for in this picture? They almost look like pilots but are too narrow when help up to the model. One is marked "F" and one is marked "R", but neither parts appear in the exploded view of the model?
View attachment 22295
According to instructions from Cannon, the side treads are suppose to have a space between the hood and the edge of the walkway, but they say to butt them upto the front piece which is suppose to be the reference. It sure would be nice if they included a diagram with the treads.
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NWCanuck
Tip&Ring
I was kind of surprised myself when I got the models which is why I got the detail parts from Canon and Co. You would think they could at least update the mold with tread plate impressions like the Atlas MP15's on the deck and walkways. But I guess that is the difference in the cost of the Athearn SW1500 vs the Atlas MP15. The Atlas models just have more details in the RTR line than Athearn does, but the prices reflect this fact.
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