Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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I have always thought sharing methods seeing another do their take on ones work tweaking your idea adds dimension and gives you option to try something new yourself finding people with similar skill sets is a god send as ideas bounce between
You mention you had a cooling off period with health and less work life is never constant the positive thing is your still rumbling along just in a different gear glad you and the wife feel better now
Thank you
 


To see some of JazA’s modeling visit her thread

00 gauge, British railway, Goathland Station aka Hogwarts Station a real preservation station in England​


It’s an experience. I couldn’t post the link, sorry!
 
C&Omtman gave some great pointers.

There are no secrets and I’ve mentioned that a few times over these pages. I started out writing my formulas down for each car so I could repeat it. You know what, every model is different and may react differently than the results you got using the exact formula on the previous car.

Frustration reigns surpreme. Don’t let a fade you don’t like get to you.

I always start out washing down the car. Most of the time with a drop or 2 of Dawn dishwashing soap but only because I think that is all my wife has ever purchased! Probably any brand will work. Clean and rinse in lukewarm water. I have found that the cleaning releases the mold lubricants that CAN affect the fading process.

If you go back to the early pages of this thread I give my process. But here is my latest version:

I use Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol about 10 to 20% flat white paint to the thinner. I spray below 20psi and I will spray, wait a minute or 5 and spray again doing as many as needed. I have over the years had many models coming out looking frosty, flour looking, hazy or splotchy white. I walk away…

But come back another day. I’ll remove the fade with either a high pressure (45+ PSI) air brush filled only with Isopropyl Alcohol or I’ll spritz it on, let it sit a minute and remove with an Isopropyl Alcohol wet mop brush.

Let everything dry, take my fade mixture and add a similar but lighter color than the model and add 1 maybe 2 drops and start the process again. Mix throughly!

Another way for the yellow car is find a yellow color similar to the model. Mix a drop or 2 of white to lighten the yellow in your bottle then add the thinner and spray.

I think if you ask 50 folks how they fade their models you’ll get 30 different answers. Most though are just differences in formulas.

I know nothing about Createx paints.

Light passes are required but you know that already.

For your yellow Centerbeam, yes I agree with you, too much white but I’d leave it. Spray the car next with your grime color. Treat it like adding the fade, 10 to 20% grime color to your thinner. Spray thinly, let it dry than decide on the results or spray again.

Ok, I went and looked up Createx paints. They are water colors. I don’t think my process would change but I’d make sure you use the thinner that Createx suggests for their paints.

For my paints I have:

Tamiya Arcylics that I thin with Isopropyl Alcohol. But I do have the Tamiya thinner

Vallejo paint. I use Air, Model Color and Panzer Aces I mostly thin with tap water. BUT I rarely spray Vallejo but use it for hand brushing. When I do spray Vallejo Air even though it says it’s not needed I thin it with Vallejo’s thinner.

Ammo by Mig. I have only use the thinner from Ammo

Craft paints, mainly thinned with water

Badger, Tru Color and others I use Mr Hobby thinner

I love yellow to weather. I dislike brown or dark green.


Moonlighting…

Just keep asking questions. Adjust your PSI, play with thinning the paints, write it down. You’ll find what works for you.

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I like all 3 but the first to me is gorgeous
 
I am up to my neck in an additional 200 intermodal 40’ containers. I have a client that I truly have done hundreds of containers for him over each of the past 5 years. He built a a backdrop walls that was made up of 200 old Walther 20’ containers that I cut in half and glued to the backdrop. He’s been promised an article about his intermodal HO scale yard including the backdrop walls. So no pictures from me have been allowed but today I have a couple of containers he wants the roof to be dirtied. Normally for his container 20% of the roofs are heavily faded and the rest light to medium but rarely dirtied. I have 6 total to do this way.

After a cleaning with warm water and dish soap I sprayed just the roofs with Isopropyl Alcohol. When not quite dried I added Pan Pastel # 820.2 Neutral Grey Extra Dark across the middle of the roof and brushed it end to end, NOT side to side. I then hit it with the hair dryer. I then spritzed some IPA lightly over the entire roof and then dabbed lightly Pan Pastel #380.1 Red Iron Oxide Ex. Dark across the center of the roof. I then brushed this side to side blending it with the previous color
View attachment 218328View attachment 218329
Any rust seen on the roofs and corner posts are done by AK Weathering Pencils. The colored tip was dipped into a spot of water to activate the colors
View attachment 218326

The container doors are done with Vallejo Air burnt umber #71.040 brushed on and while still damp I brushed the Neutral Grey pan pastel from above and then hit it with the hairdryer
View attachment 218327

The 3 pictures used for ideas from the Alamy siteView attachment 218330


View attachment 218331View attachment 218332
These 2 have been approved but the next 4 containers will be similar but not as dark on the roof and doors. These will be hit with a clear coat and will dry until Tuesday. I have op sessions the next 2 days (Sunday and Monday) and doubt I’ll even want to look at my bench either day when I get home.

What about the sides and the front panels, you ask? As I write this I’m not sure. The client wants a few scratched rust spots and maybe a dirty fade but even he’s not sure. Hey, he thought about all this he said at 4am this morning and called me at 10am and delivered 5 minutes later as he called from a few blocks away to see if I was even home…
Very nice
I would have one small criticism, unless these were not finished then just slap me,
but considering the amount of weathering on the roof I would expect a bit more on the sides especially at the bottom where water and rust fall down from roof in wet conditions would in my opinion result in some build up
The roofs are superb btw
 
Some things I am working on
View attachment 216209
6 cars above for a friend
View attachment 216210
1st 3 cars from the right were done basically the same. The friend just wanted some fading no rustView attachment 216211
The 4th car from the right he wanted clean but wanted the new car sheen gone. After a matter of clear cote I just did a very light fading
View attachment 216212Cars 5 and 6 from the right are medium faded but then a dark earth color was added. Both roofs have the start of streaking rust but no pockets of noticeable rust

Tonight these should get a final matte clear finish sprayed on

View attachment 216213View attachment 216214

Last week I showed a Coil car for the Eagle River and Kankakee Railroad. Client liked the pictures and approved. Yesterday he returned 1 of the. 2 coil covers and said rust it.

I have a few car photos I will be sending to Marlin39 this evening after dinner.
Gorgeous, colour and texture,
 
It’s Sunday! I am prepared for the travels starting 5/21 Wednesday. I have all the May freight cars shipped. I have no other freight cars other than my own for when we return in June or July. All diesels for the end of May, June and some of July are finished, approved, packaged and labeled.

So being bored today as the grandson has no local soccer games today, I grabbed 24 intermodal container chassis! The chassis go 2 ways, lots of grime or hardly any. I sprayed a mix of 20% Tamiya Hull Red and 30% JN Grey thinned 50% with IPA. Nothing too heavy on 12 chassis. The other 12 got a mix Flat Earth and Flat Yellow and thinned as above. I sprayed this mix on the JB Hunt chassis.

I let it dry for a couple hours this morning. I took a cotton tip /q-tip dipped into IPA and across the sides of the chassis where the company name and chassis numbers couldn’t be read I wiped off some of the grime.

About 15 minutes I took a small mop brush loaded it with a mix of Vallejo Air green brown and black mixed 40% green brown to 10% black and 50% water and dabbed the wheels


View attachment 219655View attachment 219656
What is not to like about these excellent weather
 
24 chassis are done as are 17 containers. Not bad for a few hours at the bench
View attachment 219680View attachment 219681View attachment 219682
11 containers have been clear coated and should be ready for some light weathering yet this afternoon. If the containers look familar they are different containers from previous pictures. I have another 36 containers 40’, 42 containers 45’ and 12 containers 52’ that I may just add a matte clear coat today. I have enough yogurt containers
View attachment 219688

Meanwhile I’m going to run a train and take pictures for the next few Front End Fridays as I contemplate the matte clear coat

View attachment 219683
Ok I have a complaint
A serious complaint
Especially as you now do less commission work and your health is improved…
Where is my whip…..
Some of your buildings are screaming out for you to give them some love and attention..by which I mean turn them into grotty weathered realistic

Should you have time, and energy, can you address the odd building especially when you already are dipping into appropriate paint…..or I will crack that whip!
 


Another wash, wick up any accumulated wash and let dry. I am cheating here, I am using the trusty old cheap hair dryer that probably has helped dry 30% of the cars I have weathered since 2015. I’m saving about 15 minutes!
View attachment 214871View attachment 214872

If I was using an airbrush all 4 sides plus the top would be already completedView attachment 214873ok 5 wash applications and I’m happy. I will do the rest of the car and be back later
Airbrushes have their place they do and do a nice job, but they don’t always get that been raining heavily and drenched look that leaves realist marks when it dries out this way it does, mix and match for best results, air brush is faster and considered more professional but I think a person who takes time and effort to actual emulate reality gets a better look long term, and often your work reflects reality far better than a ‘professional’ airbrush artist.
As you know I prefer a heavier hand myself, but if I am honest that is because subtly is an art in itself. One you in my opinion You have a firm grasp of.

I have not caught up yet, but a couple of pages at a time is a joy to study :)
 
Here are a couple cars I did recently. Mostly just craft paint washes over dullcoat.

rbox_mdw.jpg
 
Very nice
I would have one small criticism, unless these were not finished then just slap me,
but considering the amount of weathering on the roof I would expect a bit more on the sides especially at the bottom where water and rust fall down from roof in wet conditions would in my opinion result in some build up
The roofs are superb btw
I can’t disagree with anything you wrote.

I loved the roofs but not so much the sides. When I do commissioned weathering I have to divorce myself from any personal feelings. Thats hard, easier if the client sends a picture along because in reality I can copy anything. The fact is this client has always relied on my judgment so I went with that. What or how I thought the containers should look. For most but not all my commission clients get pictures as I go through the process. In this case he got pictures of the roofs before I had finished the container. He said that is how he sees containers near him but he said he had no clue how the roofs looked as he never can see them from the ground. So I added some matte clear coat and called it a day.
 
Ok I have a complaint
A serious complaint
Especially as you now do less commission work and your health is improved…
Where is my whip…..
Some of your buildings are screaming out for you to give them some love and attention..by which I mean turn them into grotty weathered realistic

Should you have time, and energy, can you address the odd building especially when you already are dipping into appropriate paint…..or I will crack that whip!
It’s a good question. My layout has been a rather big stationary diorama for quite some time now. I just get seem to get in the train room and do anything on the layout. When I do I have a 24-48 hour spurt of happiness and it disappears! I don’t know why as when I run it it operates very well. The diner is aware of my continuing frustration butvI also don’t want to tear it down partly because I’m afraid I’d never re-build.

My paper mill is a prime example of buildings that need weathering. Here in Wisconsin most of the Paper Mills still remaining are in clean if not pristine condition. I call my layout the Wisconsin River Valley and Terminal Railroad. When we moved here in the 1970’s along a 100 mile stretch between Rhinelander, Wi and Necedah, Wi were 17 paper mills. The mill is Wisconsin Rapids per industry sources was at 1 time privately owned and supposedly the most efficient and profitable in the Midwest. That mill is gone alone with 9 others leaving only 7 mills along the a Wisconsin River.

I compressed those 17 mills by taking ideas from each into my modeled Papers of Wisconsin, Inc. paper mill. They are clean buildings

When I go down to the train room tonight when I get home I have 1 building at the mill that is lightly weathered, the Chipper Building. I’ll get that posted for your critique tomorrow and after that I can break out the paints, thinners and brushes before I get whipped
 
Airbrushes have their place they do and do a nice job, but they don’t always get that been raining heavily and drenched look that leaves realist marks when it dries out this way it does, mix and match for best results, air brush is faster and considered more professional but I think a person who takes time and effort to actual emulate reality gets a better look long term, and often your work reflects reality far better than a ‘professional’ airbrush artist.
As you know I prefer a heavier hand myself, but if I am honest that is because subtly is an art in itself. One you in my opinion You have a firm grasp of.

I have not caught up yet, but a couple of pages at a time is a joy to study :)
Well! The airbrush for me is an effective efficient tool but not the tool to end tools. As recently as 2 years ago I was weathering well over 100 cars a month from regular commission clients, plus friends equipment, models being sent to me and sometimes my own stuff. I had to use the air brush even though personally give me a bunch of brushes, paints, thinners and a cotton tip. I have time now as most of my current commissions are HO scale diesels from 3 still regular clients. I’m fine with that. Even though this isn’t a locomotive weathering thread I will say my diesel weathering is probably 80% hand brushing with the other 20% being the matte clear being sprayed between applications or color changes.

I love my Abteilung502 oils and my fleet of 11 diesels 9 are still virgins and need some dirt.

I work mostly from photos because I have a heavy weathering hand and not every unit is heavily weathered in real life or a rust bucket.

Thank your Jaz for your posts. You may spur me on to the bench
 
Here are a couple cars I did recently. Mostly just craft paint washes over dullcoat.

View attachment 239070
Paul, those are awesome. In the right setting and you have that yellow cars need IMO heavy dirty weathering without becoming a rust bucket.

The saying less is more isn’t always necessarily true. You could have gone crazy with these but your restraint tells volumes about your talent. Post, post and keep posting, please

Let us know if you have techniques or tips you want to share. Are these weathered from a prototype picture, from memory or a combo? Airbrushed, brush or a combo?

Thanks for sharing
 
Paul, those are awesome. In the right setting and you have that yellow cars need IMO heavy dirty weathering without becoming a rust bucket.

The saying less is more isn’t always necessarily true. You could have gone crazy with these but your restraint tells volumes about your talent. Post, post and keep posting, please

Let us know if you have techniques or tips you want to share. Are these weathered from a prototype picture, from memory or a combo? Airbrushed, brush or a combo?

Thanks for sharing
Thanks, Tom, I've been enjoying the models posted in this thread.

Once I watched one of Kevin Packard's, kpack on YouTube, videos of weathering a BNSF FMC 4400 cuft hopper and copied some of the easier steps.

The MDR/Valdosta car was mostly from a photo. I put a different number on it because I think it's fun when the digits of the number add up to 21, in this case MDR 8382. I first dullcoated the car then applied thin washes of a yellow that was lighter than the original yellow. If the car is wet with plain water, the washes flow and you don't get the runs and drips or hard edges of the color. When it was the lighter yellow I wanted, I added the rusted dents and scratches with small brushes, one of the favorites being a 20/0 round with half the bristles cut off. I use a dark brown for the rust and give that a light wash of orange, I think it makes a convincing rust spot.

The Railbox got a coat of dullcoat and then some orangish/yellow pastel chalk to fade it. I used the craft paints and mixed up a faded blue and red for the arrows and repainted them with my 20/0 brush. Then washes and rust spots/scratches like before. The roof is mostly brush painted brown with some orange wash followed by a dark orange brown chalk. The process is far from precise and a good exercise for my spreadsheet/AutoCad brain to relax a little.

centerbeam.jpg


For the above centerbeam, I tried airbrushing a coat of very thin craft paint. It was a very light yellow to mute the brilliant yellow Walthers gave it. After that, washes of various shades of brown with more brown and orange for rust spots. The top is also weathered but it doesn't show well in this photo. The inspiration was from a photo. Coupled to the right is the 'before'. All together, it is probably about 4 hours of trying to create "happy accidents". Eventually, I'll do something besides a yellow car but I still have a few more Railbox...
 
Thanks, Tom, I've been enjoying the models posted in this thread.

Once I watched one of Kevin Packard's, kpack on YouTube, videos of weathering a BNSF FMC 4400 cuft hopper and copied some of the easier steps.

The MDR/Valdosta car was mostly from a photo. I put a different number on it because I think it's fun when the digits of the number add up to 21, in this case MDR 8382. I first dullcoated the car then applied thin washes of a yellow that was lighter than the original yellow. If the car is wet with plain water, the washes flow and you don't get the runs and drips or hard edges of the color. When it was the lighter yellow I wanted, I added the rusted dents and scratches with small brushes, one of the favorites being a 20/0 round with half the bristles cut off. I use a dark brown for the rust and give that a light wash of orange, I think it makes a convincing rust spot.

The Railbox got a coat of dullcoat and then some orangish/yellow pastel chalk to fade it. I used the craft paints and mixed up a faded blue and red for the arrows and repainted them with my 20/0 brush. Then washes and rust spots/scratches like before. The roof is mostly brush painted brown with some orange wash followed by a dark orange brown chalk. The process is far from precise and a good exercise for my spreadsheet/AutoCad brain to relax a little.

View attachment 239124

For the above centerbeam, I tried airbrushing a coat of very thin craft paint. It was a very light yellow to mute the brilliant yellow Walthers gave it. After that, washes of various shades of brown with more brown and orange for rust spots. The top is also weathered but it doesn't show well in this photo. The inspiration was from a photo. Coupled to the right is the 'before'. All together, it is probably about 4 hours of trying to create "happy accidents". Eventually, I'll do something besides a yellow car but I still have a few more Railbox...
Thank you for your process. I love yellow cars as they are such a great canvas to work on. They are so versatile to work with. 4 hours sounds about right for me when I use a brush. Your restraint on the Centerbeam is admirable
IMG_1426.jpeg


I get heavy handed without a picture to follow
 


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