Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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I can see the difference. I take pictures usually using my IPadPro instead of my IPhone.

I’m glad to know it’s not just my perception.

Now, I’ve done something interesting here. (Ok, I guess that’s not for me to decide; you folks might find it drop-dead boring, but anyway…) I uploaded this photo three different ways:

Top: by the “attach file” option. Size: 722.4 kb
Middle: by the “upload photo option. Size: 422.4 kb (same filesize as when this photo was uploaded for an above post)
Bottom: by “attach file” option of the photo converted into .PNG file size 3.4 MB
Original photo file size 1.4 MB (in original JPEG format), 16.7 MB (as converted to PNG)


IMG_5078.jpeg

IMG_5078.jpeg


IMG_5086.png


It is evident (to me) that the middle one has duller colors than the other two. It’s a harder call between top & bottom, but I think the bottom has the better color.

Beyond the color issue, it is puzzling to me how an “attach file” option produces a different filesize than the file attached.
 
I’m glad to know it’s not just my perception.

Now, I’ve done something interesting here. (Ok, I guess that’s not for me to decide; you folks might find it drop-dead boring, but anyway…) I uploaded this photo three different ways:

Top: by the “attach file” option. Size: 722.4 kb
Middle: by the “upload photo option. Size: 422.4 kb (same filesize as when this photo was uploaded for an above post)
Bottom: by “attach file” option of the photo converted into .PNG file size 3.4 MB
Original photo file size 1.4 MB (in original JPEG format), 16.7 MB (as converted to PNG)


View attachment 233852
View attachment 233853

View attachment 233855

It is evident (to me) that the middle one has duller colors than the other two. It’s a harder call between top & bottom, but I think the bottom has the better color.

Beyond the color issue, it is puzzling to me how an “attach file” option produces a different filesize than the file attached.
I had a ton of problems with jpg vs png vs gif ( AVIF and WebP are different animals ). If the original image is jpg, keep in mind that it is a 'lossy' image. In other words, when the jpg is 'taken' via camera it is compressed and some of the image data is missing due to that. In my case, my Pentax allows me to set the image quality. The higher the quality, the less the compression is; which makes for more pixel data and a bigger image size. Still some compression no matter what you do. Then when converted to png, the algorithm to do so tries to recreate the lossy image as best it can filling in information that is not present placing where it thinks it should be. Don't go over quality of 95 as you can not see a difference between that and 100.

There is no way to know what the user is gonna use/upload. I suspect that a somewhat specific Height x Width is used for a target to keep things pretty much the same. Basically, if PHP is used for the conversion, a new PHP blank image is created using ImageCreate or ImageCreateTrueColor at the target HxW, then the original image is transfered into the new image. Because of the possible size differences and pixel ratio between the original and new, it is not a bit to bit transfer; something could be added or removed. It used to be a real PITA as ImageCreateTrueColor did not work as advertised until PHP v8, then things got better. No clue to what this site uses. In my case, if an image is less than a certain HxW, I do nothing with it and use it as uploaded as I have found that making something bigger is not the thing to do as the resulting image is terrible.

For the difference between insert as file vs image upload, could be that different algorithm's are used to do so, and you could see differences in the resulting image; either/both quality and size. ImageMagick convert, PHP friends and JavaScript js-image ( probably others ) could be used to size any image. I have not played with js-image so no idea of that.

If you can, take any pix in the 'RAW' format. I do when I know the image is something that may need further processing. Then some aftermarket pix fiddler - I use DarkTable for sizing and conversion to png ( or jpg ) which also allows me to remove some unwanted stuff. I don't use gif for images, only for graphics, YMMV.

Talk about 'drop-dead' boring!

L8r
 
I should care more about the photos I take but I use only an IPhone13 or the IPadPro. I do not edit them. I signed up before Covid at an extension course locally on photography with a smart phone. Before the class started Covid hit. Took almost a year to get my money back. I wish I knew why my photos are not always satisfactory but I’m ok with it.
 


I managed to squeeze in a modicum of weathering time on my reefers today: mud splash ladder/grab iron grime, and roof runoff streaks:

IMG_5087.jpeg


A little end view thrown in:

IMG_5088.jpeg


IMG_5089.jpeg


IMG_5093.jpeg


IMG_5092.jpeg


The first three are the Atlases, the Baby Ruth is Microtrains. The Atlases have deeper plank lines, which makes them easier for me to get the effects I want with the hand-brushed work.

The mud splash was Vallejo Air Earth two parts paint to one part thinner. My biggest problem doing mud splash is getting it equal height along the car’s length.

The roof runoff and ladder grime were both the same mixture: 1 part Mission Models Brown, two parts Mission Models’ British Slate Grey. No thinner. I applied it with a small brush up under the roof edge, then dipped a mini-Q-tip into the Vallejo airbrush thinner, and dragged the paint down the car sides. Control of the effect was achieved by dragging the mini-Q-Tip (dowsed in thinner) back up to remove excess paint. Sometimes a paper towel wetted with a bit of thinner was used to wipe down the excess. No thinner was put into the paint mix itself.

The mud splash really helped the turnbuckle braces on the Baby Ruth car to show. I had painted them with Vallejo Burnt Umber, but you could hardly tell it.

After some roof soot/grime, some at the ends and a final flat coat, these shells will be done.

Then there is the weathering of the trucks and undersides to get them completely done.

With my first reefer, I was extremely pleased with the results, but in the end , thought the weathering colors were a bit bright or vivid, and I wanted to have more subdued shades this time, have colors that were more authentic, but still have cars that were pleasing to look at.

I think I’m on the way to that goal with these; I just need to maintain it all the way to the end.
 
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I managed to squeeze in a modicum of weathering time on my reefers today: mud splash ladder/grab iron grime, and roof runoff streaks:

View attachment 234302

A little end view thrown in:

View attachment 234303

View attachment 234304

View attachment 234307

View attachment 234306

The first three are the Atlases, the Baby Ruth is Microtrains. The Atlases have deeper plank lines, which makes them easier for me to get the effects I want with the hand-brushed work.

The mud splash was Vallejo Air Earth two parts paint to one part thinner. My biggest problem doing mud splash is getting it equal height along the car’s length.

The roof runoff and ladder grime were both the same mixture: 1 part Mission Models Brown, two parts Mission Models’ British Slate Grey. No thinner. I applied it with a small brush up under the roof edge, then dipped a mini-Q-tip into the Vallejo airbrush thinner, and dragged the paint down the car sides. Control of the effect was achieved by dragging the mini-Q-Tip (dowsed in thinner) back up to remove excess paint. Sometimes a paper towel wetted with a bit of thinner was used to wipe down the excess. No thinner was put into the paint mix itself.

The mud splash really helped the turnbuckle braces on the Baby Ruth car to show. I had painted them with Vallejo Burnt Umber, but you could hardly tell it.

After some roof soot/grime, some at the ends and a final flat coat, these shells will be done.

Then there is the weathering of the trucks and undersides to get them completely done.

With my first reefer, I was extremely pleased with the results, but in the end , thought the weathering colors were a bit bright or vivid, and I wanted to have more subdued shades this time, have colors that were more authentic, but still have cars that were pleasing to look at.

I think I’m on the way to that goal with these; I just need to maintain it all the way to the end.

I know I’ve written it here before, we all have read or been told by others that we are our own best and worst critics. Nothing wrong with that but most of the time we the people that weather are, overthinking.

My feeling on the reefers is: I’d gladly put them on my layout. I’m going to grab that technique from you!

GREAT EXPLANATION

The roof runoff and ladder grime were both the same mixture: 1 part Mission Models Brown, two parts Mission Models’ British Slate Grey. No thinner. I applied it with a small brush up under the roof edge, then dipped a mini-Q-tip into the Vallejo airbrush thinner, and dragged the paint down the car sides. Control of the effect was achieved by dragging the mini-Q-Tip (dowsed in thinner) back up to remove excess paint. Sometimes a paper towel wetted with a bit of thinner was used to wipe down the excess. No thinner was put into the paint mix itself




TOMO
 
I know I’ve written it here before, we all have read or been told by others that we are our own best and worst critics. Nothing wrong with that but most of the time we the people that weather are, overthinking.

My feeling on the reefers is: I’d gladly put them on my layout. I’m going to grab that technique from you!

GREAT EXPLANATION

The roof runoff and ladder grime were both the same mixture: 1 part Mission Models Brown, two parts Mission Models’ British Slate Grey. No thinner. I applied it with a small brush up under the roof edge, then dipped a mini-Q-tip into the Vallejo airbrush thinner, and dragged the paint down the car sides. Control of the effect was achieved by dragging the mini-Q-Tip (dowsed in thinner) back up to remove excess paint. Sometimes a paper towel wetted with a bit of thinner was used to wipe down the excess. No thinner was put into the paint mix itself




TOMO

Those thing go by the name of “Micro Applicator Brush” on Amazon. Six bucks for five hundred of ‘em.

IMG_5123.png


Many brands, many colors. This is the tip size/form I use:

IMG_5124.png
 
Those thing go by the name of “Micro Applicator Brush” on Amazon. Six bucks for five hundred of ‘em.

View attachment 235479

Many brands, many colors. This is the tip size/form I use:

View attachment 235480


Thanks for the micro brush info. I do have the yellow, green and white handled ones and a fourth color but can’t remember which sitting on the bench at home. Very handy tools of the trade
 
Finally, finished cars.

IMG_5156.jpeg

IMG_5161.jpeg

IMG_5165.jpeg

IMG_5168.jpeg


These cars definitely had a “good side” and a “bad side,” mainly in the mud splash I had a hard time getting the height even end-to-end along the length of the cars. I was able to get it close on only one side of each car. Fortunately, my technique of using airbrush thinner on a micro applicator did great at wiping away excess, and I was able to redeem the “bad side” of each.

Sealed them all with Tamiya XF-86 thinned 1:1 with Tamiya’s acrylic thinner.

I did something a bit out-of-the box for the trucks: I mixed two drops of Mission Model Red Primer, two drops of their Anthracite, one drop of their brown, a drop of Vallejo medium gray, and a drop of Mission Models’ standard rust. Hand-brushed it on. Airbrushed on the thinned Tamiya XF-86 at the same time I did the shells. I think they’re the best looking trucks I’ve yet done.

IMG_5159.jpeg


I painted the undersides of the three Atlas cars. Floorboards were Vallejo Burnt Umber. Transverse braces were 1:1 burnt umber and Mission Models standard rust. The braking hardware was Vallejo standard gray. I left the center rib in its natural blackened state.

IMG_5154.jpeg


As I mentioned in my last progress post, I didn’t paint the underbody of the Baby Ruth MicroTrains car, I did paint the turnbuckles with burnt umber, but airbrushing them with Vallejo Earth set them apart.

The final touch before sealing the shells was to put some pastel chalk on the roofs. I had dry-brushed them earlier and they were too dark, so I went for a look to lighten them a bit, and still convey the impression of steam soot.

IMG_5169.jpeg


These cars were the first where I set out consciously using “layer management” from the start - alternating protective layers (alcohol-based acrylics like XF-86) and decorative layers (water-based acrylics). That is something I picked up from a Boomer Diorama video.

Overall, I think this batch is the best I’ve done for far.
 
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Finally, finished cars.

View attachment 236654
View attachment 236655
View attachment 236656

These cars definitely had a “good side” and a “bad side,” mainly in the mud splash I had a hard time getting the height even end-to-end along the length of the cars. I was able to get it close on only one side of each car. Fortunately, my technique of using airbrush thinner on a micro applicator did great at wiping away excess, and I was able to redeem the “bad side” of each.

Sealed them all with Tamiya XF-86 thinned 1:1 with Tamiya’s acrylic thinner.

I did something a bit out-of-the box for the trucks: I mixed two drops of Mission Model Red Primer, two drops of their Anthracite, one drop of their brown, a drop of Vallejo medium gray, and a drop of Mission Models’ standard rust. Hand-brushed it on. Airbrushed on the thinned Tamiya XF-86 at the same time I did the shells. I think they’re the best looking trucks I’ve yet done.

View attachment 236657

I painted the undersides of the three Atlas cars. Floorboards were Vallejo Burnt Umber. Trabsverse braces were 1:1 burnt umber and Mission Models standard rust. The braking hardware was Vallejo standard gray. I left the center rib in its natural blackened state.

View attachment 236658

As I mentioned in my last progress post, I dudn’t paint the underbody of the Baby Ruth MicroTrains car, I did paint the turnbuckles with burnt umber, but airbrushing them with Vallejo Earth set them apart.

The final touch before sealing the shells was to put some pastel chalk on the roofs. I had dry-brushed them earlier and they were too dark, so I went for a look to lighten them a bit, and still convey the impression of steam soot.

View attachment 236659

These cars were the first where I set out consciously using “layer management” from the start - alternating protective layers (alcohol-based acrylics like XF-86) and decorative layers (water-based acrylics). That is something I picked up from a Boomer Diorama video.

Overall, I think this batch is the best I’ve done for far.
It really looks great
 


Oh boy! JazA has returned from her hiatus. Need to clean up the weathering bench and for me to start posting again. For those that don’t know JazA is a superb weathering artist from England. Look back through the tread and you’ll see she was a regular here and in the Diner daily until a year or so ago. She popped in the Diner this morning

IMG_7430.jpeg


I took this in Royal Oaks, California while traveling a couple weeks ago. We were on the Amtrak Coast Daylight. I took the picture for the weathering of the track but the graffiti on the black/blue gondola caught my eye this morning.

I do a sketch between the grandson’s soccer matches this afternoon and evening
 
I took this in Royal Oaks, California while traveling a couple weeks ago. We were on the Amtrak Coast Daylight. I took the picture for the weathering of the track but the graffiti on the black/blue gondola caught my eye this morning.
Kind of lost track of this thread. Looks like early July from the unread posts.

The spine car is a nice reference as well.
 
Oh boy! JazA has returned from her hiatus. Need to clean up the weathering bench and for me to start posting again. For those that don’t know JazA is a superb weathering artist from England. Look back through the tread and you’ll see she was a regular here and in the Diner daily until a year or so ago. She popped in the Diner this morning

View attachment 237239

I took this in Royal Oaks, California while traveling a couple weeks ago. We were on the Amtrak Coast Daylight. I took the picture for the weathering of the track but the graffiti on the black/blue gondola caught my eye this morning.

I do a sketch between the grandson’s soccer matches this afternoon and evening
Yes totally screaming I need to be modelled :)
 
I know I’ve written it here before, we all have read or been told by others that we are our own best and worst critics. Nothing wrong with that but most of the time we the people that weather are, overthinking.

My feeling on the reefers is: I’d gladly put them on my layout. I’m going to grab that technique from you!

GREAT EXPLANATION

The roof runoff and ladder grime were both the same mixture: 1 part Mission Models Brown, two parts Mission Models’ British Slate Grey. No thinner. I applied it with a small brush up under the roof edge, then dipped a mini-Q-tip into the Vallejo airbrush thinner, and dragged the paint down the car sides. Control of the effect was achieved by dragging the mini-Q-Tip (dowsed in thinner) back up to remove excess paint. Sometimes a paper towel wetted with a bit of thinner was used to wipe down the excess. No thinner was put into the paint mix itself




TOMO
I have always thought sharing methods seeing another do their take on ones work tweaking your idea adds dimension and gives you option to try something new yourself finding people with similar skill sets is a god send as ideas bounce between
You mention you had a cooling off period with health and less work life is never constant the positive thing is your still rumbling along just in a different gear glad you and the wife feel better now
 
I should care more about the photos I take but I use only an IPhone13 or the IPadPro. I do not edit them. I signed up before Covid at an extension course locally on photography with a smart phone. Before the class started Covid hit. Took almost a year to get my money back. I wish I knew why my photos are not always satisfactory but I’m ok with it.
I take pride in the fact that I do not mess with my pictures my work is my art work not my editing skills and your work is so relatable because I can clearly see techniques at play and can find nuances at play glad you got your money back glad still you do not have the skills to mess with your raw talent :p
 
Omg I have not even left page 134 and I am already taking over your thread I’ll go elsewhere for a while but I’ll be back grins
 
Kind of lost track of this thread. Looks like early July from the unread posts.

The spine car is a nice reference as well.
Mike, I couldn’t believe all the spine cars and reefers in that yard. I took reefer pictures for reference to post another day. From Seattle to LA the most common car I saw was the yellow TBOX boxcar and intermodal well cars both sitting and moving. The graffiti though was everywhere. Much more out West than I see here in the Midwest
 


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