Steve's SOCAL BNSF layout

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Steve,

Depending on which turnouts you are using, removing the "insulated rail joiners" will help a lot. I was using Peco Insulfrog turnouts with "insulated rail joiners" and had noting but problems. As soon as I removed all of the insulated joiners, 95% of my "power problems" disappeared as well.
 
If you are running all sound locos, 3 would be about it for capacity, non-sound, you'll get more. Sound takes a good voltage kick, just to get that feature going, once settled back down to normal, it's not so much.

Good to know info tootn, only one of the three in the consist has sound. I'm going to try breaking up that consist and see if changing up the locos makes a difference. The sound one has to go through the startup cycle again everytime it momentarily loses power, meanwhile the other two locos are still trying to push fwd while this one is trying to start back up.

Steve,

Depending on which turnouts you are using, removing the "insulated rail joiners" will help a lot. I was using Peco Insulfrog turnouts with "insulated rail joiners" and had noting but problems. As soon as I removed all of the insulated joiners, 95% of my "power problems" disappeared as well.

Tony, I'm using all atlas code 80 number 4 and 6 turnouts, I also have three atlas code 55 curved turnouts soldered into the layout.

Steve


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Good to know info tootn, only one of the three in the consist has sound. I'm going to try breaking up that consist and see if changing up the locos makes a difference. The sound one has to go through the startup cycle again everytime it momentarily loses power, meanwhile the other two locos are still trying to push fwd while this one is trying to start back up.

Steve


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Ah, yes that's why in DC, although most (all now I think) DCC silent or sound equipped locos will run on DC from the factory, the silent ones (whether they have a DCC decoder or not) will do that. As I mentioned it takes 5-7 volts, depending on brand, to get just the sound going, and if the engine's on a DC track, then the silent ones are already rolling (or trying to), whereas the sound equipped won't normally move until the sound has gone through the motor start-up sequence, consequently dragging it's feet. As you've noticed, dead spots have the same effect. So, not really possible to consist on DC.

Using DCC it's a different matter (just don't ever put a DC only loco on a DCC track), there you can consist both DCC/sound and DCC silent decodered engines. Generally speaking most sound locos will go into motor sound start-up on contact with a live track, or if on the track, as soon as the power is switched on. The silent decoders also, even though they're silent, are "fired up" and ready to roll. Some sound brands require the pressing of a function button to start the sound on, but they all recommend waiting till the motor has settled back to idle, before moving off. The actual point of starting to move, because power is at maximum on the rails all the time, is determined in the settings of each locos decoder, so it will apply electricity to the motor at (normally), speed step 1 on your cab's display. This is the realm of speed matching.
 


Ah, yes that's why in DC, although most (all now I think) DCC silent or sound equipped locos will run on DC from the factory, the silent ones (whether they have a DCC decoder or not) will do that. As I mentioned it takes 5-7 volts, depending on brand, to get just the sound going, and if the engine's on a DC track, then the silent ones are already rolling (or trying to), whereas the sound equipped won't normally move until the sound has gone through the motor start-up sequence, consequently dragging it's feet. As you've noticed, dead spots have the same effect. So, not really possible to consist on DC.

Using DCC it's a different matter (just don't ever put a DC only loco on a DCC track), there you can consist both DCC/sound and DCC silent decodered engines. Generally speaking most sound locos will go into motor sound start-up on contact with a live track, or if on the track, as soon as the power is switched on. The silent decoders also, even though they're silent, are "fired up" and ready to roll. Some sound brands require the pressing of a function button to start the sound on, but they all recommend waiting till the motor has settled back to idle, before moving off. The actual point of starting to move, because power is at maximum on the rails all the time, is determined in the settings of each locos decoder, so it will apply electricity to the motor at (normally), speed step 1 on your cab's display. This is the realm of speed matching.

Very useful information and thank you for sharing, I've definitely got a lot of learning to do when it comes to DCC. For now I've removed the sound ones out of any consists just until I can finish working out the remaining track bugs. I have already looked at adding a booster since I'm already planning on adding some additional plug in points for the DCC controller(s). I'm also looking at maybe making a long term upgrade/investment to a digitrax DCC wireless system with booster.

Thanks again,
Steve
 
Almost forgot to add this.... upgraded another locomotive on the layout to DCC. My Atlas Burlington Northern U25B #5427 is now upgraded with a digitrax decoder.

Short clip of the new locomotive in operation and some other operations on the layout.

https://youtu.be/sNOirtr9F64

Thanks and enjoy!
Steve
 
Been working on a few areas of the layout over the holidays....

Working on the grain elevator area and part behind where the layout wraps around and hugs the wall. Still need to install some back drops in the areas....

Track painted and prepped for ballasting in sidings and elevator..

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Built up a hill on the backside so the line looks like it disappears behind it....

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Scenery added and mainline awaiting ballasting...

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The local BNSF 2800 switching out hoppers at the grain elevator while checking operation and cleaning up the track with a cleaning car (boxcar)....

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Parking lot and driveway paved for local convenient store/gas station....

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Steve


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Also finally painted that last part of my mountains awaiting paint. Next comes scenery and details.....

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Also starting detailing the area adjacent to this siding.....

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Driveway for one of the industries paved and almost ready for sanding/painting. I prefer to use the spackling compound that goes on pink and dries white once set....

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That's it for now, more to come.

Thanks for looking.
Steve





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Couple shots of some new "Christmas arrivals" on the layout (a pair of AC4400's 5694 and 5615)...

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I've slowly started retiring some of my older DC locomotive fleet that I don't plan to upgrade, the others are slowly getting upgraded to DCC.

Steve


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Really hard to believe that this is N scale. Had to look numerous times. The only give away were the oversize hand rails. That is some excellent work. Well done.
 
Thank you all for the comments and feedback. I was very fortunate to get those AC4400's from another model railroader, they are very nice additions.

Got a bit of the ballasting done around the grain elevators, still need to ballast the second mainline and around the switches and then weather.....

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Got the mainline done behind the grain elevator too, still need to add a background and relocate that ugly PVC pipe....

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And of course a few train shots (not the best/sorry).....

BNSF 9839 out with a cut of track cleaners polishing and cleaning rails (need to black out the inside of the shell, so much light comes through the orange since this loco was converted to DCC....

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Adding the ballast really finishes the scenes. I especially like the way your view block hill turned out. The backdrop will really complete that section. Nicely done.
 
Adding the ballast really finishes the scenes. I especially like the way your view block hill turned out. The backdrop will really complete that section. Nicely done.

Thanks roofin, I'm going to move that PVC pipe and then install a backdrop. I think the hill needs some more trees too.


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Looks like you may have left the light shield off that loco after converting it to DCC. It will keep the light from the LED for the headlight from shining into the cab.
 






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