Woody & Son Railroad (WSR)

[Iron Horseman]

Also, when installing cork, is it best to cork the whole track? I was thinking of not corking under the yard areas. What's best to make the height transition between the 2 areas?

cedar shingles cut to width or the triangular shims used for squaring up door frames.

Yard's don't have the noise issue that the main lines do. And yards also don't usually have the vertical drainage "grade" that main line tracks do. So both these would say it is fine not to have cork under the yard.

You could also use different heights of cork. Like use N-scale cork under the yard to give it a lower profile.

 

[kjchronister]

Bought a pack of those shims at home Depot years ago and still have some left... work great.

 

[Resqnu]

Thanks guys, I will pick some up.

 

[kjchronister]

Make sure you have a good box cutter at hand too, xacto type "hobby knife" won't do. To cut them, score deeply in each side, snap off, and trim. To use on a curve, cut into 1" segments...

(The thick end will frequently be too thick. I usually have to find the right height along their plane and cut there)

 

[Resqnu]

I've decided on keeping my track layout like it currently is. It works great for me and my son. I'm keeping his 4x8 layout as is with grass mat and movable roads so he can move things around if he chooses.

Now, my 4x8 layout is going to see some changes. I'm going to start adding realistic landscaping by adding a tunnel with a waterfall over top, then flowing into a lake, to a river flowing under the track and off the board. I'm also adding a few hills and a hill cutout on one corner the tracks go through Not getting a hurry, but this is the plan.

Since my sons layout is going to be left as is and mine going through changes, I need to make a few decisions now. With the work in progress on my side, I'm still planning on keeping the track running and work in small stages. I think the way I am planning the changes will work. The priority for us is running trains about everyday. I'm not making a show piece, but something fun for us. My son wants the "rocks" (ballast). I need help with the following:

1. Would you recommend putting cork roadbed under the track then add ballast, or maybe he would be happy with just cork.

2. Leave the track, like it is currently, on top of the 2" foam and add ballast, maybe not glueing the ballast completely.

3. Also, when installing cork, is it best to cork the whole track? I was thinking of not corking under the yard areas. What's best to make the height transition between the 2 areas?

I feel I need to decide on this before moving forward. Any suggestions is appreciated.


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Anyone else have input? Making a decision today to add cork or leave as is on the grass mat. FYI, grass mat is mounted on 2" foam.


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[tootnkumin]

If you are going to leave the grass mat on your side of the layout and the track is firm (fixed down in some way) then the mat I would think will give enough sound insulation. Might be hard to ballast the track on the mat, bits of ballast will stray. If you want to do your side without the mat, then yes, cork underlay. Probably find the levels between cork and mat pretty even.

 

[Resqnu]

If you are going to leave the grass mat on your side of the layout and the track is firm (fixed down in some way) then the mat I would think will give enough sound insulation. Might be hard to ballast the track on the mat, bits of ballast will stray. If you want to do your side without the mat, then yes, cork underlay. Probably find the levels between cork and mat pretty even.

I plan on leaving the grass matt on my son's side and mine while I begin the landscaping on my side. The thickness of the matt is very thin, nowhere near as thick as cork roadbed. I already have 2" of the green foam under the grass matt, so I'm not worried about sound. We don't run the trains fast and sound level is good now. The plan on my side, is to cut the grass matt away as needed while I'm building the landscaping, so it will look better during the process, and eventually it will all be removed from my side.

I realize I am making this a harder decision than it probably should be, but that is me. Guess I'm being a little indecisive (it would be easier if someone would say you should do this or that...lol) I have already laid the track, made adjustments for it to run well and have it tacked down with a million track nails into the foam. So putting a cork roadbed down now would involve removing the track and down time.....ugh. Unless there is an way to lay the roadbed without removing the whole track, maybe in sections? Can the roadbed be put in place in sections with glue or tacks to hold it and replace the track at the same time? Marking for the roadbed would be tough as well since the roadbed is wider than the track. Has anyone used N scale roadbed on HO mainline?
With that said, I really like the look of either cork board roadbed or ballast or both.. Guess I've done this process backwards..lol.
I know MR is ALWAYS a work in progress and never really complete.
Sorry to beat this dead horse.

 

[tootnkumin]

I think the only way to do it successfully will be to remove all the track on your side in order to lay the cork road bed, otherwise it would be too difficult and become a marathon effort. BUT, before you lift the track I would run an ink marker pen along the mat either side of the ties to give you guidelines to cut out mat strips for the cork. You would have to cut wider on each side to allow for the cork's extra width, but at least you should be able to retain the original layout form that way. It's never easy to retrofit anything, but you aren't the first to wish they'd "done it differently the first time".

"N" scale cork is also narrower as well as thinner which will add to the difficulty, so I would stay with HO cork and transition the differences where it meets the mat on your Son's side.

 

[Iron Horseman]

Unless there is an way to lay the roadbed without removing the whole track, maybe in sections?

Could a section just be out of service for a time while trains run by on the parallel track.

Can the roadbed be put in place in sections with glue or tacks to hold it and replace the track at the same time? Marking for the roadbed would be tough as well since the roadbed is wider than the track.

Maybe that is possible on a foam base with long pins/nails. Never tried that one. Especially since the cork is usually installed from the centerline of the track. Maybe mark the outside of the track with a fat marker so that the cork could be installed from the outside edge of the mark?

Has anyone used N scale roadbed on HO mainline?

No and would not recommend. That would loose the proper look for the roadbed. Earlier when I mentioned N-scale cork I was speaking for yards.

 

[tootnkumin]

I like the idea of the fat marker to get your cutout width for the cork.

 

[Resqnu]

I think the only way to do it successfully will be to remove all the track on your side in order to lay the cork road bed, otherwise it would be too difficult and become a marathon effort. BUT, before you lift the track I would run an ink marker pen along the mat either side of the ties to give you guidelines to cut out mat strips for the cork. You would have to cut wider on each side to allow for the cork's extra width, but at least you should be able to retain the original layout form that way. It's never easy to retrofit anything, but you aren't the first to wish they'd "done it differently the first time".

"N" scale cork is also narrower as well as thinner which will add to the difficulty, so I would stay with HO cork and transition the differences where it meets the mat on your Son's side.

Thanks for the help

 

[Resqnu]

Could a section just be out of service for a time while trains run by on the parallel track.

I didn't think of that, but could work for us. Say I lay the roadbed under the outside track first and run the train on the inside track, what should I do with roadbed under the crossovers? Install same time as the outside track or when I do the inner? I guess another option would be to just do 1 side (4x8) first an then the other, using shims where they meet?

Maybe that is possible on a foam base with long pins/nails. Never tried that one. Especially since the cork is usually installed from the centerline of the track. Maybe mark the outside of the track with a fat marker so that the cork could be installed from the outside edge of the mark?

think I could make that work. Guess I could also put small marks between the ties and connect the dots?

No and would not recommend. That would loose the proper look for the roadbed. Earlier when I mentioned N-scale cork I was speaking for yards.

Figured it was not the best idea, but had to ask...lol

 

[Johne230]

If it were me I would prepare everything I could ahead of time while running trains over a period of a couple of nights, Mark all your track move any scenic stuff out of the way score your mat if you are going to remove it from under the road bed shim the track were the transition will be. After all the prep work is done at the end of that session remove the inner track start laying your roadbed reinstall the track test everything and secure track when satisfied all is good. all this can be done while still running some trains. Continue until done and enjoy I think construction is as much fun as running trains anyway. Just my 2 cents.

 

[tootnkumin]

I think you will find it nigh impossible to fit cork underlay (glue it down, glue the track back down onto it) with the track hung up somehow above it, bit by bit, especially where you have crossovers joining the other track as well. I think you'll just end up with a hell of a mess. If you mark each side of the mat outside the ties as suggested (the cork underlay strips aren't that much wider than the ties, probably only 1/8" or so either side), so a 3/16" wide marker would give enough clearance to allow the fitting of the cork with a high degree of accuracy, And do your cutting of the mat while the track is holding it down securely. Have a good supply of sharp blades to slice the mat. Just make sure that the remaining grass mat is well secured to the foam as well before cutting with pins etc so it stays in it's place. Then you've got your track plan still in it's original form to guide you in laying your cork in one go and then replacing the track, also in one go.

 

[Resqnu]

If it were me I would prepare everything I could ahead of time while running trains over a period of a couple of nights, Mark all your track move any scenic stuff out of the way score your mat if you are going to remove it from under the road bed shim the track were the transition will be. After all the prep work is done at the end of that session remove the inner track start laying your roadbed reinstall the track test everything and secure track when satisfied all is good. all this can be done while still running some trains. Continue until done and enjoy I think construction is as much fun as running trains anyway. Just my 2 cents.

I think you will find it nigh impossible to fit cork underlay (glue it down, glue the track back down onto it) with the track hung up somehow above it, bit by bit, especially where you have crossovers joining the other track as well. I think you'll just end up with a hell of a mess. If you mark each side of the mat outside the ties as suggested (the cork underlay strips aren't that much wider than the ties, probably only 1/8" or so either side), so a 3/16" wide marker would give enough clearance to allow the fitting of the cork with a high degree of accuracy, And do your cutting of the mat while the track is holding it down securely. Have a good supply of sharp blades to slice the mat. Just make sure that the remaining grass mat is well secured to the foam as well before cutting with pins etc so it stays in it's place. Then you've got your track plan still in it's original form to guide you in laying your cork in one go and then replacing the track, also in one go.

Solid info guys. Sounds like a good plan. I agree with the construction being fun and continuing with updates, just didn't want running trains to be down longer. The 5 year old wouldn't like that...lol. He is good with working on the other projects.

 

[Resqnu]

What is recommended for securing the cork roadbed to the foam? I've seen hot glue, latex silicon and all types of glue. Watching a few videos, the hot glue seems to dry fast and looks quicker. But I see it wouldn't let you make any adjustments if needed once you put the track down.

And do you recommend the cork precut turnouts or just cut your own from the strips?

 

[Johne230]

Plain old latex caulk works well holds well yet you can remove it if you have to. The caulk gives you some time to make adjustments just keep it pinned for a day till it sets.

 

[kjchronister]

2nd for plain latex caulk (not silicone). I use it to hold cork, track, tortoises, the works. I bought a tiny 1/16th inch notch trowel which I find is the perfect amount. "T" pins (staples has them) are great hold-downs while it dries.

 

[Iron Horseman]

What is recommended for securing the cork roadbed to the foam? I've seen hot glue, latex silicon and all types of glue. Watching a few videos, the hot glue seems to dry fast and looks quicker. But I see it wouldn't let you make any adjustments if needed once you put the track down.

I am in the Matt-Medium camp. Dries transparent dull. Elmer's glue & the various wood glues can dry white or yellow and they will eventually turn brittle and break apart. ModPodge takes forever to dry and the stuff I had dried transparent but it was glossy. I avoid the caulk because my first experience with it was not good. The club used it to put in a crossover. About a year later I had the job of replacing it with a double crossover. It took me forever to get the old caulk removed and cleaned up so I could put in the new.

And do you recommend the cork precut turnouts or just cut your own from the strips?

I have never used one. Just cutting the cork to fit has always been so straight forward and easy I've never once though to even try the pre-cut ones.

 

[kjchronister]

I am in the Matt-Medium camp. Dries transparent dull. Elmer's glue & the various wood glues can dry white or yellow and they will eventually turn brittle and break apart. ModPodge takes forever to dry and the stuff I had dried transparent but it was glossy. I avoid the caulk because my first experience with it was not good. The club used it to put in a crossover. About a year later I had the job of replacing it with a double crossover. It took me forever to get the old caulk removed and cleaned up so I could put in the new.

I have never used one. Just cutting the cork to fit has always been so straight forward and easy I've never once though to even try the pre-cut ones.

I definitely go with matte medium for ballasting. The "finish" of the caulk for roadbed and track doesn't concern me... cuz it's covered with ballast...