joem5127 said:
My main consern is how the points fit up to the stock rails. Looks like it will take a bit of work to make them reliable. So, what is everyone using and why? Also what are you using for turn out control? Thanks for the imput.
Joe;
This is my experience, both personal and in clubs, and if it helps great! If you are concerned about the points fitting into the stock rail, take a "knife" file, (slightly tapered), and champfer the end of the points on the running side of the points to ensure a smoothe transtion from the stock rails to the points. Here is an example;
Atlas code 100:
PROS; High quality, super reliable, relatively inexpensive. Mainstay of hobby for years and years. Easy to curve
CONS; Limited choice of turnouts,crossings. Appearance. No "special" trackwork. (single-double slip switches, curved turnouts,etc). Electrical conductivity can become an issue.
Shinohara code 100/83/70:
PROS; Well detailed, "prototype" sized spike heads on ties, great variety in trackwork choices. Reliable
CONS; Expensive, fragile, hard to adjust, ie because of its fragility spikeheads breakoff easy and can ruin the turnout. Not as easy to curve as Atlas
Peco Code 100/70:
PROS; High quality, well detailed, rugged. Good choice in trackwork. Has a built in mechanism to allow for a "no machine use".
CONS; Expensive, Has European appearance, Designation is not to "American" standards. Internal contacts eventually wear and electrical conductivity becomes an issue.
I have no comments on their code 83. I haven't had experience with it.
Model Power Code 100 Flex:
PROS; High quality, cheap, well detailed, cheap, comparable to Atlas Code 100 in reliablity. Did I say it was cheap?
CONS; On every piece I've ever used, there are burrs on the end of the rails that either have to be removed in some fashion. Not always available. Doesn't curve as easy as Atlas. No turnouts made above a "snap switch" variety.
Handlaid Code 100/83/70/55/40:
PROS; Easy to lay, Not limited to any trackwork available commercially. You can build to fit the situation. Track is attached to roadbed the way the prototype is with spikes or by soldering to PCB ties. If done well looks most realistic of all types. Electrical wiring is easy, reliable. Jigs are available to ease construction.
CONS; Can be very time intensive, depending on what trackwork you want. Quality depends on experience. STEEP learning curve. Materials, (ties, spikes, rail) not available at times. As code gets smaller, PCB ties, or gluing rail to ties becomes necessary.
Specific brands of rail are not mentioned due to virtually no difference between them. Plus I believe that ME is now the only maker,I could be wrong on this.
Tracklaying jigs are now available to make turnout building easier. I have just been given a complete set of jigs and laser cut ties from Fasttraks to review. I'll let everyone know what I think after the review.
My personal choice is to handlay. I do use MP flex on lowest level of my layout that except for 12" or so is completely hidden staging yards. The turnouts are Atlas code 100 #6's.
The hidden turnouts are activated by SPDT slide switches/rods to edges of layout for electrical reliablity. All visible turnouts will be thrown with Caboose Ind. ground throws.