Weekend Photo Fun 22, 23, 24


Vato out of curiousity what is the size of that layout and is it ho or n?

Jeff, who makes that KCS hopper?
 
NYSW F45 said:
Jeff, who makes that KCS hopper?
Click to expand...


I'm not Jeffrey, but I do believe it's a Athearn rtr series like this one here:
http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH95994
And they have the following road#'s avail: 286003, 286025, 286113, 286130, 286139, *286137, *286342, *286259, *286468, *286525, *286674, and *286731. * Due March 2009

ATH95994-450.jpg
 
Jim, The layout that I built before this one was nice too! I didn't sell it, in stead I tossed it thought nobody would want it........big mistake! about three weeks after I tossed it, a friend offer me some cash for it! some cash is better than no cash! As for why I'm getting rid of it, I live in a very small house and have no way to store it. It has to go, I would love to see some one finish it. It was built so it could be loaded in to a fulls size pickup truck and taken to train shows.

Steve, Look in the FS/Wanted section, full info and ton's of pic's!
 
As Thoroughbred said, it's an Athearn rtr offering. It has the exact same coupler pocket as the Athearn Trinity covered hopper so upgrading to Kadee's is a pain.
 
Chris, all good reasons to try and sell it. I hope you can make a few bucks off it.

Jeffrey, someone stole the rear handrails from your SD-7. :)
 
UP2CSX said:
Chris, all good reasons to try and sell it. I hope you can make a few bucks off it.

Jeffrey, someone stole the rear handrails from your SD-7. :)
Click to expand...
Yeah, literally! It was an incomplete kit. It was just the chassis and body shell. No handrails, couplers, window glass or number boards. Not even horns. I've been piecing it together with parts from old locos that I pick up here and there. The LHS let it go for $10 because of all the missing pieces.
 
I'm at it again with another RMV (Railroad Music Video) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQU00rMJras Please comment/rate if you wish. The BN F45 has a LokSound Decoder, the F40PH has a SoundTraxx decoder, both sound excellent, I'm hoping tonight I'll get down to the club to reprogram the F40 for Manual notching, so I can control the HEP. The reason its not on HEP mode is because the P-S Bi-Level has a generator built on the bottom.
 
I've been doing some light layout work today. The evil 'S' curve at the front of the layout is fixing to go away. As the photo below shows I've already got the deck that'll hold the new track section in place.

P1010135.jpg


After I've marked off the areas where the ends of the new section will marry into the existing track I'll cut out the offending section, trim the ends, put a piece of half inch foam down on the new deck and install the new track section. Here's a photo showing the new section set in to show what I'm going to do.

Any lovers of 'S' curves speak now or forever hold your peace.

P1010136.jpg
 
The new track section is in place. Now for the ticklish part. The areas where the rails were cut is fairly difficult to get at to cut under the rail ends. So I'm having a spot of bother getting rail joiners in there. What I'm going to do is simply this. I'll clamp the rail ends in place so they line up precisely with each other and solder a piece of iron wire across each rail joint on the outside edge of the rail. After the area is ballasted it'll hardly be noticeable. Have I done this before? Yes. How many times? Twice, and that was many years ago.

P1010139.jpg
 
I now have the rail ends soldered together and I just ran a test train made up of my pickiest loco and cars over the area and they worked flawlessly. I label this project a success.
 
Much better than that old "S"curve, Jeffrey. As far as rail joiners, you really never need them. Since it looks like you're using ez-track on both ends, why not clamp the sections together and then use some strip styrene glued under the ties at each end section with plastic cement? You can then solder some copper wire across the joints for electrical connectivity. Once you get it ballasted, it should be steady as a rock.
 
UP2CSX said:
Much better than that old "S"curve, Jeffrey. As far as rail joiners, you really never need them. Since it looks like you're using ez-track on both ends, why not clamp the sections together and then use some strip styrene glued under the ties at each end section with plastic cement? You can then solder some copper wire across the joints for electrical connectivity. Once you get it ballasted, it should be steady as a rock.
Click to expand...
I soldered pieces of iron wire across the rail joints. It won't bend like copper can.
 
Jeffrey, beat up doesn't even begin to describe that beauty. :) Not only that, I think the rear truck is on the ground.
 
Nope. The rear truck is on the rails. The rails are almost even with ground level at that point.
P1010148.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top