I have practiced with oils but not a lot. Or should I write, not to my satisfaction. By placing the oil dabs on a piece of corrugated cardboard or a thick paper towel you wick off the linseed oil. By doing that I have read you create a quicker drying time, instead of 2-3 days maybe 24 hours. Still plenty of time to work the oil paint. I can speed that 24 hours up by using the dehydrator but have not played with that. Also, not matter how long oils have dried Mineral Spirits will still make them workable.TomO: I like using oils for streaking and fading since they do not dry as fast as an acrylic paint. Oils may take several days to dry to the touch.
Just a note.
Greg
Thank you for the comments Greg. We don’t get many trains during the day in the Madison area. Terry and I during a 2020 Summertime Covid drive ended up at the terminal of the WSOR near the old GM plant in Janesville, Wi. No trains in the yard just a few Sd40-2’s. I alway carry my cell phone which of course has the camera in it. It is so hard to catch trains let alone the roofs.TomO: I enjoy the work of Boomer Diorama and his use of Tamiya Base White fading methods.
I have a heavily rusted GP38-2 that I wasn't too real happy with the weathering and it was a a nearly a $295.00 locomotive that I thought was ready for the junk pile. But...I'll use Boomer's method and save the over rusted areas and change them back to being just lightly weathering and fading painted areas.
Another subject, on the way home today from the cabin in Oshkosh Wisconsin we stopped at a grade crossing for a Wisconsin Southern unit train of covered hoppers and I could see first hand the lightly rusted tops and sides of the cars. Wish the camera was ready!!!
I like the roofs on the frieght cars. Nice work.
Good luck on the next round of med scans.
Greg
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Love the rolling stock, these reference pictures show you need to dull down the kadees, far too clean, loving the threadHi
My last gondola got a bit of a reaction on the Facebook page HO scale shelf modeler. Many thought I had overdone it beyond being realistic. The ends had lots of suggestions, the sides, the floor and the load got great comments. Thankfully Arcylic is very forgiving.
from this
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To this after some rework
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Today I had a Facebook friend send me some reference pictures he took for me today 2/28/2022, in Edson Alberta Canada. Here they are:
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These pictures show exactly the type of help I was asking for on FB and the type of sharing we can do here at modelrailroadforums.com.
I have more gondolas to work on but the prototypes are heavily used but not abused with dings, dents and rust.
TomO
I have that trouble all the time, you can change the titleWell, I looked at the thread title. Locomotives don’t fit.
I will move this locomotive project to its own thread
TomO
Heated metal tools, a knife for instance I have used to make a flat tyre, same principal, sorry not rolling stockHi Tom- read on the forum here someone heated up a screwdriver and used that to make the dents.
Maybe used the same torch they started the fire with
Nope, when the time comes, I will start a locomotive thread on weatheringI have that trouble all the time, you can change the title
Jaz A thanks for checking in. Missed you. Yes, I have been accused of not rusting up the couplers enough. Sometime before we start operations again the Fall I will hit up each couplerLove the rolling stock, these reference pictures show you need to dull down the kadees, far too clean, loving the thread
Don’t be sorry. Good ideas are always relished and we need ideas. Like most of my modeling, the weathering has taken a back seat to life.Heated metal tools, a knife for instance I have used to make a flat tyre, same principal, sorry not rolling stock
How do I do this ?constructive criticism,
Do what? Constructive criticism or weathering?How do I do this ?
Lol, it was sarcasm (too early in the morning…..lol) I meant there was nothing to critique on your excellent work…..lolDo what? Constructive criticism or weathering?
It’s early in the morning and it’s too cold on the deck at 60f/15.5c this morning, my brain is mush.
Glad to read you are doing wel. Getting sick sucks
Thanks. It was early!Lol, it was sarcasm (too early in the morning…..lol) I meant there was nothing to critique on your excellent work…..lol
Hi Tom,I have practiced with oils but not a lot. Or should I write, not to my satisfaction. By placing the oil dabs on a piece of corrugated cardboard or a thick paper towel you wick off the linseed oil. By doing that I have read you create a quicker drying time, instead of 2-3 days maybe 24 hours. Still plenty of time to work the oil paint. I can speed that 24 hours up by using the dehydrator but have not played with that. Also, not matter how long oils have dried Mineral Spirits will still make them workable.
TomO
Excellent work and thanks for showing it.Hi Tom,
I use Winsor + Newton oils thinned with blue lable Turpenoid to weather..
I started wicking off the oils with cardboard..but after a few cars I forgot/skipped this step and I don’t find it makes much difference in drying time..
Keep in mind these are very thin layers of oil paint…
I use Rustoleum clear flat as a sealer within an hour or so of applying the oils…again it’s summertime and I’m working outside with the sun heating everything up…Rustoleum is almost like a instant fixer making the underlying oils permanent…the point of no return..
All my work now, I still classify as practice as I don’t believe I am happy with this technique yet…even yesterday I was watching YouTube vids trying to get pointers..
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