Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread


Hi

Why wait, the roof is stripped!

Testors dull cote applied to the roof and its in the dehydrator drying
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for an hour or so

TomO
 
TomO: I like using oils for streaking and fading since they do not dry as fast as an acrylic paint. Oils may take several days to dry to the touch.

Just a note.

Greg
I have practiced with oils but not a lot. Or should I write, not to my satisfaction. By placing the oil dabs on a piece of corrugated cardboard or a thick paper towel you wick off the linseed oil. By doing that I have read you create a quicker drying time, instead of 2-3 days maybe 24 hours. Still plenty of time to work the oil paint. I can speed that 24 hours up by using the dehydrator but have not played with that. Also, not matter how long oils have dried Mineral Spirits will still make them workable.

TomO
 
Hi. I got home Friday but not to the paint bench until about 8pm Saturday for an hour or so and then a few hours on and off today. Pictures later for each of the cars but here is a group roof weathering picture.
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A CT chest scan and then a Ultra Sound tomorrow. I doubt I will get to the train room as I will be sedated for these 2 formerly very easy procedure for me.

There were a few well wishes for my Thursday surgery. Again thanks guys. I feel pretty good but it will be a process before the strength is back.

I have mentioned boomer diorama before from You Tube. I use his fading method using Tamiya x-21 base.
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Tom
 
TomO: I enjoy the work of Boomer Diorama and his use of Tamiya Base White fading methods.

I have a heavily rusted GP38-2 that I wasn't too real happy with the weathering and it was a a nearly a $295.00 locomotive that I thought was ready for the junk pile. But...I'll use Boomer's method and save the over rusted areas and change them back to being just lightly weathering and fading painted areas.

Another subject, on the way home today from the cabin in Oshkosh Wisconsin we stopped at a grade crossing for a Wisconsin Southern unit train of covered hoppers and I could see first hand the lightly rusted tops and sides of the cars. Wish the camera was ready!!!

I like the roofs on the frieght cars. Nice work.

Good luck on the next round of med scans.

Greg

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TomO: I enjoy the work of Boomer Diorama and his use of Tamiya Base White fading methods.

I have a heavily rusted GP38-2 that I wasn't too real happy with the weathering and it was a a nearly a $295.00 locomotive that I thought was ready for the junk pile. But...I'll use Boomer's method and save the over rusted areas and change them back to being just lightly weathering and fading painted areas.

Another subject, on the way home today from the cabin in Oshkosh Wisconsin we stopped at a grade crossing for a Wisconsin Southern unit train of covered hoppers and I could see first hand the lightly rusted tops and sides of the cars. Wish the camera was ready!!!

I like the roofs on the frieght cars. Nice work.

Good luck on the next round of med scans.

Greg

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Thank you for the comments Greg. We don’t get many trains during the day in the Madison area. Terry and I during a 2020 Summertime Covid drive ended up at the terminal of the WSOR near the old GM plant in Janesville, Wi. No trains in the yard just a few Sd40-2’s. I alway carry my cell phone which of course has the camera in it. It is so hard to catch trains let alone the roofs.

For the WC covered hoppers GUY in the diner posted some roof pictures for me and of course others. I use pictures as a guide but much of the heavier weathering for me is by feel as to what is enough or not. Ihave not gotten the “correct” feel on the roofs of the 6 cars shown on the bench. That’s why you are not seeing addition “these are finished” pictures.

TomO
 
Hi

My last gondola got a bit of a reaction on the Facebook page HO scale shelf modeler. Many thought I had overdone it beyond being realistic. The ends had lots of suggestions, the sides, the floor and the load got great comments. Thankfully Arcylic is very forgiving.

from this
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To this after some rework
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Today I had a Facebook friend send me some reference pictures he took for me today 2/28/2022, in Edson Alberta Canada. Here they are:
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These pictures show exactly the type of help I was asking for on FB and the type of sharing we can do here at modelrailroadforums.com.

I have more gondolas to work on but the prototypes are heavily used but not abused with dings, dents and rust.

TomO
Love the rolling stock, these reference pictures show you need to dull down the kadees, far too clean, loving the thread
 
Hi Tom- read on the forum here someone heated up a screwdriver and used that to make the dents.

Maybe used the same torch they started the fire with 😉
Heated metal tools, a knife for instance I have used to make a flat tyre, same principal, sorry not rolling stock
 

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Over 2 months since my last post here. But, I feel the best I have since before the Covid invasion of 3/2020. After surgery, the blahs and 2 years of being as safe as possible from Covid, Terry and I in June did catch the virus. Not too bad but I have had lingering affects, but good now!

Back at the bench this week. Three main pieces of rolling stock are being worked on:
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The 2 box cars, I will check what brand, but they and the covered hopper by Tangent for Home Shops LLC were faded last week using the Tamiya X-21 base.

Done today were the roofs of the 2 box cars and one side of the Covered hopper. All three done with Vallejo Air, burnt umber applied as a wash. 3 drops of burnt umber to 33 or 35 drops of tap water.(yes, 10-1 but I was adding until it felt right)

I applied clear water to the top of the car applying enough to puddle. Then I dab the burnt umber wash onto the roof. The car roofs shown had this done 4 times and in the picture they are still wet but drying! The roof with be showing the rusting effect started but it will not be one of my rustbucket type roofs. The picture is 1 hour, (I use timers, remember) after the last application. So I will check after dinner.

The covered hopper is as I mentioned a Tangent car done in the Michigan Interstate free lance theme of my friend Greg McComas of Fort Worth, Texas. Check out the free lance cars at Home Shops LLC. They can be found at

HomeShops.net
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Working with the same Vallejo Air burnt umber wash I did much the same to the sides of the covered hopper as to the roofs of the box cars but with a lighter touch and only 2 applications. Water 1st and while still wet apply the wash. I applied the wash letting it run down the sides but wicking the puddles at the bottom sill. The car in the picture is slightly damp.The build date on this car is 1994 and I model roughly 2005 to 2015 so this will be a light to light medium weathering. Rust on the roof edges with some rust streaking but again a light rust along the car ribs

Glad to be back. Please hop in with constructive criticism, helpful tips and absolutely show some of your work.
 
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Well it’s not after dinner as I am being told our company I was unaware were coming for dinner will be here at 7. So pictures now.

The box cars are Walthers Mainline and are nice cars purchased back in 2/2022 at the MadCity Train show in Madison, Wi. Still a touch damp and won’t be looked at until 10pm or tomorrow.
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I am not unhappy with the effect but the center of the roof needs some additional action.
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I am almost happy with the side of the covered hopper. The center panel to the left of the logo needs to be cleaned up as it is too much streaking for the light effects I am looking for.

Touch up is easy. A just barely damp brush, of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol, almost dry brush style, will clean the sides off. Same for the roof but I may leave the roof as is and add some pan pastels to blend the roof together.
 
Lol, it was sarcasm (too early in the morning…..lol) I meant there was nothing to critique on your excellent work…..lol
Thanks. It was early!

Grandson has a hockey game in 19 minutes so no weathering tonight.

TomO

Edit: 2 hours later, grandson had a goal and 2 assists, the last assist on the tying goal with 4 seconds left. No overtime in summer league hockey
 
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I have practiced with oils but not a lot. Or should I write, not to my satisfaction. By placing the oil dabs on a piece of corrugated cardboard or a thick paper towel you wick off the linseed oil. By doing that I have read you create a quicker drying time, instead of 2-3 days maybe 24 hours. Still plenty of time to work the oil paint. I can speed that 24 hours up by using the dehydrator but have not played with that. Also, not matter how long oils have dried Mineral Spirits will still make them workable.

TomO
Hi Tom,
I use Winsor + Newton oils thinned with blue lable Turpenoid to weather..
I started wicking off the oils with cardboard..but after a few cars I forgot/skipped this step and I don’t find it makes much difference in drying time..
Keep in mind these are very thin layers of oil paint…

I use Rustoleum clear flat as a sealer within an hour or so of applying the oils…again it’s summertime and I’m working outside with the sun heating everything up…Rustoleum is almost like a instant fixer making the underlying oils permanent…the point of no return..

All my work now, I still classify as practice as I don’t believe I am happy with this technique yet…even yesterday I was watching YouTube vids trying to get pointers..

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Hi Tom,
I use Winsor + Newton oils thinned with blue lable Turpenoid to weather..
I started wicking off the oils with cardboard..but after a few cars I forgot/skipped this step and I don’t find it makes much difference in drying time..
Keep in mind these are very thin layers of oil paint…

I use Rustoleum clear flat as a sealer within an hour or so of applying the oils…again it’s summertime and I’m working outside with the sun heating everything up…Rustoleum is almost like a instant fixer making the underlying oils permanent…the point of no return..

All my work now, I still classify as practice as I don’t believe I am happy with this technique yet…even yesterday I was watching YouTube vids trying to get pointers..

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Excellent work and thanks for showing it.

I used the last of my Testors DullCote #1260 spray cans and will not pay almost $10 per can when the LHS can get it. I have a spray booth and have started testing out the Vallejo matte varnish and I have some VMS matte and gloss I got within the month but have not even opened. The Kylon I have but even after warming the can up in water I get a splotchy spray pattern. Hopefully the airbrush will work out ok.

I am working with Abteiilung 502 oils from scalehobbyist.com on a couple older baby hi-cubes from Athearn in the 70’s. Not ready to use on my good stuff yet but getting closer.

you tube: I believe I have an Addiction to scale model weather videos. I don’t watch much TV but I do watch a few weathering videos almost every evening. There are some excellent content providers out there.

I like both your excellent pictures but that CP car is primo. Don’t be a stranger make sure you come back. I like gondolas:
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Tom.. very nice work..

I would use Testors Dullcoat but yes the spray cans are expensive…and often not available at the LHS…
I have the bottled Dullcoat but sometimes the airbrushed result is not what I wanted..
Krylon clear flat is better than Rustoleum clear flat, but harder to find…
Tamiya XF-86 Clear Flat is pretty good…
I have some ModelMaster, Vallejo, and PollyS kicking around here as well but it’s just easier with Rustoleum, Krylon or Tamiya
Price vs Result…I am ok with Rustoleum…pretty durable matte finish
 



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