Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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I have a couple of them, added a couple of workers, one was holding a shovel that I cut out to make it look like he's holding a coffee. The other talking on the radioView attachment 143223View attachment 143224.
Tom. Before seeing Willie’s use of figures on his layout that he shows in the diner, I was not a fan of figures on the layout. I have since changed my mind and have started purchasing and placing a few in my paper mill complex. One thing WILLIE does is he places his figures into the scene. That is what you have done on a very nice transfer caboose. Those 2 guys look like they belong there, well done.
TomO
 
Tom. Before seeing Willie’s use of figures on his layout that he shows in the diner, I was not a fan of figures on the layout. I have since changed my mind and have started purchasing and placing a few in my paper mill complex. One thing WILLIE does is he places his figures into the scene. That is what you have done on a very nice transfer caboose. Those 2 guys look like they belong there, well done.
TomO
Thank you. I've done a few scenes with figures, but it's very hard to find workers with safety vest and hard hats that would fit into today's (or minus 15-20 year time frame) type of modeling. A lot of company's still put out figures that fit 50's to 70's time frame.
 
Thank you. I've done a few scenes with figures, but it's very hard to find workers with safety vest and hard hats that would fit into today's (or minus 15-20 year time frame) type of modeling. A lot of company's still put out figures that fit 50's to 70's time frame.
Tom

I agree about the figures still seemingly in the 70’s. Safety vests are another issue and my RR workers have them because I had to paint them on to fit the 2000’s. This is my first completely painted LP on the layout. Meet Maynard!
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A large package with pulp cars and a new Gp38-2 in CN arrived today. The locomotive is my payment to weather the 10 pulp cars.
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I took the trucks and wheelsets off to clean and get them ready to paint. The white stuff on the trucks is the Tamiya base X21 paint I use after cleaning with Isopropyl Alcohol. The base does fade the parts and also gives a bit of bite to the Derlin for the next weathering paints to be applied.

I have applied 1 coat of rust on the wheels, brushed and cleaned the trucks and have applied the 1st of 2 coats. A light color followed with a darker rust stippled on.

The trucks r next

TomO
 
Today I will clean out the wheel threads with Isopropyl Alcohol and a Q-tip. Put the wheelsets back together, apply a light application of Pan Pastels to the trucks and spray with Testors dull cote. I have 1.5 cans of dull cote left. The price has exploded and locally no one seems to carry it. I have been searching online for homemade flat mat finishes. Any suggestions?

Then more underbody paint. I had applied late yesterday a black/brown mix lightly underneath and today I will be adding the “road” actually rail grime. The last 3 cars I did for him I used a rust mix of Tamiya Hull Red and a touch of black. He loved it. But, he’s got me on the road grime! I have to make up a couple samples, let it dry and messenger some pictures over for his approval. While waiting for that I will start the rust process on the decking.

TomO
 
Tom: I like how you organize your work area. I need to try the method you use of a coat of Tamiya on the trucks to give the balance of the weathering coats some "Bite".

That GP-38 is a nice looking locomotive.

Greg
 
Tom: I like how you organize your work area. I need to try the method you use of a coat of Tamiya on the trucks to give the balance of the weathering coats some "Bite".

That GP-38 is a nice looking locomotive.

Greg
Greg, I am glad it looks organized. It works for me. The new paint booth should be installed while we are gone in April but 90% of the weathering I do is by brush anyway.

I am looking forward to putting sound into the gp38-2. I added the Scale Sound Systems speaker this morning while waiting for paint to dry. I will order a decoder while we are gone to arrive when I get home. I am debating between the ESU I have used and the Econami2 from Soundtraxx I have been thinking about trying

TomO
 


Tom you have a plate full my friend. Which one is first.
I am working on the pulp cars 1st. Last second decision by the client as he is broke but has tons of rolling stock and locomotives. We made a trade, gp38-2 for the weathering. I plan to send out 3 cars on Thursday late for his in person approval. I won’t start the final 7 as he is one of those guys who makes last second changes. So he can look at the first 3 and know ho the others should look.

I had told him I was leaving and they wouldn’t be all done in less then a week, I had asked for 3 weeks to complete the job when we 1st talked about it. Those 7 will be completed after the trip is done in April. I will feel good when the 1st 3 go out though

Tom
 
Thanks Lee, it’s not a job yet! I enjoy it and definitely have the experience weathering pulp cars. These will be pulp cars 64 to 73.

I will put my duplicates or the cars not needed up for sale but I’m not advertising any weathering services. I am still not sure how I got into doing his 1st 3 pulp cars and now 10 more. But, I am making out on the trades and he had to pay for the 1st 3 units. His club was ecstatic with the pulp cars I just sent off Saturday and they received on Tuesday.

My system starts with:

all trucks and wheels off 1st.
Tune the trucks, clean all with Isopropyl Alcohol
then fade the trucks and paint the wheels both front and back.
Weather the trucks,
hit with Testors dull cote and re-assemble when dry.

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Those look great Tom. They should be ecstatic about them they’re beautiful. I’m getting ready to make some Great Northern Log/ pole cars. I think they may be fictional but I don’t care I really don’t lean on prototypical anymore I get burned out and lose interest so I quit doing that and trying to please everyone besides me. Any way could you sheld some light on the debris left from the wood. I’ve seen guys do this and have some ideas but yours is more convincing. If you don’t want to share your technique I understand I’ll post some pictures of my project later.
Lee, I have no secrets for modeling.

The debris on the pulp car deck is called slash. I use canopy glue and sprinkle/pour it on. I use a stick and tap it down into the glue. The picture shows that Pile. I do come back, (Thursday morning for these) and brush off whatever didn’t stick. Back into the jar it goes

I use a few materials to make the slash:

Branch material too small to be convincing model pulp wood. I shave off the bark with an xacto knife and then run the remaining through an electric pencil sharpener. (the bark goes to the pulp yard ground cover after going once through a hand cranked coffee grinder)

I take bamboo skewers and run them through the electric pencil sharpener

I take scrap balsa wood, shaved down to fit the electric pencil sharpener

Put all three materials in an empty clean peanut butter jar and shake it up, mixing well. I take pinches of the material and sprinkle it on the deck as I first noted.

It takes maybe 30 minutes to make enough slash for 30 cars. Today, I made my third big batch. I had done some experiments before settling on this method. DO NOT MAKE SLASH USING PENCIL SHAVINGS, that load still smells like pencil lead

The pulp yard crew generally could care less about slash on the car deck, it will blow off during the next car movement which puts it on the ground in the pulp yard

pictured below are a few old pictures of slash in the pulp yard and a prototype picture of a car with slash on the deck.



TomO
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Lee, very nicely done. Dirty but not destroyed!

I see the decal edges! I read where no matter how long the decals are on one of the micro-sol products will blend it in. Waiting for uber but when at the son’s place Tuesday I will dig that info up.

TomO
 


So being home and with nothing on the paint bench, that had to change. I picked these up in Independence, Mo. Opened the boxes
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Time to weather them up.

Fade 1st
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Tamiya X-21 flat base is used to help fade the cars. Brushed on full strength, let dry overnight and brushed off the following day.

Prototype photos for reference only, they are not a road map. The photos give me an idea!
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Vallejo Air hand brushed

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The above weathered car was photographed in the morning yesterday.

I forgot to take a picture as it looks now.

Before I start hopefully later today I will snap a current picture. The rust on the dump chutes will get fixed. It started off as over runs from the washes used on the side panels. I tried to wick it up with a brush (should have used a paper towel) then tried to brush it out. It kept getting worst until I walked away.

Happy Easter

TomO
 




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