BigGRacing
Aka. Gary Russell
Both car jobs look awesome, any tips on doing the patina roof in my thread using basic paints ?
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
- Thread starter TLOC
- Start date
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Tom those lumber cars came out nice.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Gary,
For my Centerbeams, I used Tamiya Arcylic paints. Hull red 7 drops and 3 drops basic black and mixed. Then I added 40 drops (give or take a few) and mixed. I sprayed with an airbrush from about 12” away at 35psi as I wanted a light covering.
I would think a mix of any deep red color (not bright) and black mixed with your thinner of choice would come up the same or close. TomO
CambriaArea51 Tom, I am sure will chime in with his formula.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thank you, the client though wants a bit less grime on the Centerbeam blue walls for this car. So this morning is clean it up with odorless thinner time. Easy if I can keep the brush strokes steady and straight. Wants more dirt on the underside.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
While I watched this yesterday, this morning I watched it again but with intent. Tom thanks for sharing. I am in a no man’s land for So. Central Wisconsin has few trains and fewer spots you can see the tops of the cars. I moved this video into my saved folder. What really got me though is the chute weathering on these cars. They are all over the map. I have around 12 of my own grain cars and 12 phosphate cars to do eventually and while the top views are extremely helpful the chutes have changed my thinking. Both regarding how much weathering and the coloring.
GUYS, if you have a video you think will help us in our weathering endeavors for rolling stock, (not locomotives) go ahead and post them.
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
Nothing done after my shut it down posting yesterday afternoon. Had a dinner date and a musical to attend last night.
Based on the feed back from the client overnight, today I will clean up the blue car. He thought the grime on the blue center beam partition was too much and not streaky enough. I will take a flat brush loaded with orderless spirits and brush it on. I will let it sit 20 seconds or so and with another flat brush and slightly damp I will pull the grime color down to the floor.
The 2 TTZX yellow cars shown only in 1 picture, ( I added it again here) he doesn’t feel there is enough grime on either underside frame.
What I will do here is on each rib where the yellow shows on the floor I will overcoat with a blacker mix of my hull red/black that I used. On previous cars I have done for him he loved the effect above but that’s why I send the clients pictures.
Hopefully by lunch today these corrections will be done and posted to the client.
See the tree just to the right of the picture? I couldn’t help myself while things were drying yesterday!
Based on the feed back from the client overnight, today I will clean up the blue car. He thought the grime on the blue center beam partition was too much and not streaky enough. I will take a flat brush loaded with orderless spirits and brush it on. I will let it sit 20 seconds or so and with another flat brush and slightly damp I will pull the grime color down to the floor.
The 2 TTZX yellow cars shown only in 1 picture, ( I added it again here) he doesn’t feel there is enough grime on either underside frame.
What I will do here is on each rib where the yellow shows on the floor I will overcoat with a blacker mix of my hull red/black that I used. On previous cars I have done for him he loved the effect above but that’s why I send the clients pictures.
Hopefully by lunch today these corrections will be done and posted to the client.
See the tree just to the right of the picture? I couldn’t help myself while things were drying yesterday!
Alcomotive
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
Here are some great options. I have Alkem chains. They need to be painted though.
Heavy Duty Chain Tie Downs — Alkem Scale Models
HO scale detail part for heavy duty ratchet style chain tie-downs with compression units used on military and heavy-duty civilian loads.
alkemscalemodels.biz
SPRING MILLS DEPOT - DODX Heavy Duty Flat Car - Tie Down Chains
Model Train Storage Boxes. Custom Cars.
www.springmillsdepot.com
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
James thanks. I have briefly thought of using Alkem’s chains. I figure if his chain link fence is as great as it is I should try the chains. Thing is I don’t need the chain just the hooks and turnbuckles that I see look like separate pieces.Here are some great options. I have Alkem chains. They need to be painted though.
Heavy Duty Chain Tie Downs — Alkem Scale Models
HO scale detail part for heavy duty ratchet style chain tie-downs with compression units used on military and heavy-duty civilian loads.
SPRING MILLS DEPOT - DODX Heavy Duty Flat Car - Tie Down Chains
Model Train Storage Boxes. Custom Cars.www.springmillsdepot.com
More food for thought
I was unaware of SpringMillsdepot even though I have looked at the website.
Bernie at Alkem‘s hooks and turn buckles with Ken’s (d&j railroad) method of the wire for cabling should work.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Why yes, thanks for asking. I do have the next cars and a picture
the white stuff is the Tamiya x-21 base that I use for fading cars.
Once dried it forms a chalk and needs to be brushed off. All 4 remaining cars are in this process. This afternoon I will just brush them off and picjk the next one
the white stuff is the Tamiya x-21 base that I use for fading cars.
Once dried it forms a chalk and needs to be brushed off. All 4 remaining cars are in this process. This afternoon I will just brush them off and picjk the next one
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
Tom
The first video would have been perfect for the undersides in better light but still it will be very helpful. Lots of graffiti on that train.
The second video is definitely helpful especially when I can slow it down.
Thanks for sharing those
if I can get into the train room today it will be much later
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Good evening. SMUDGE617 started a thread about cleaning airbrushes, check it out and contribute if possible. Lots of different ways to clean an AirBrush
airbrush warning, I do use the airbrush when I weather. I use it mainly to give a base coat of grime to the underside of the car. For coloring, that’s it, just the underside. I also use the airbrush for applying either matte clear or for gloss clear coatings. That happens often during the process when there is a color change
Meanwhile back at the bench! The 4 remaining Centerbeams are heavily faded (Tamiya x-21 base) When I hit the bench this morning it was to plot out the weathering for one of the yellow TTZX and the BCIT green cars. The other 2 cars I already had a good idea and have the sample pictures to go off of.
So I sent a bunch of pictures of medium type weathered cars off the Railcarphotos.com website to the client. He replied let’s do this yellow car similar to the blue one he approved Friday. Medium it will be. Ok!
Then on the green BCIT car he now wants it destroyed enough that it needs to go to the shop for a rebuild and new paint. I was not expecting that and Centerbeams generally don’t get that bad and still be used. Basically, he wants a car similar to some Pulp cars I have done for him. Pulp cars get really banged up and still are used. So…
Next
the car on the holder is a yellow TTZX that will be medium weathered but with rust starting.
The color is Panzer Aces #301 by Vallejo Light Rust. By first brushing on with lots of clear water and then dabbing on a wash of the 301 thinned again with water it will flow to the edges of just about everything. I will do this a few times, let dry and apply more until I feel good about it.
The bottom car below the holder is the green BCIT car. Using the same #301 light rust wash as above. I dabbed the wash on, then dipped the damp brush into a pot of light rust pigments by AV but there is no label to give a number or the actual name. When dried there will be adhered thin layer of rust.
Both cars are in the dehydrator for the night.
Next up for both cars will be using Vallejo Air burnt umber as the heavy rust spot coloring
enjoy the night
airbrush warning, I do use the airbrush when I weather. I use it mainly to give a base coat of grime to the underside of the car. For coloring, that’s it, just the underside. I also use the airbrush for applying either matte clear or for gloss clear coatings. That happens often during the process when there is a color change
Meanwhile back at the bench! The 4 remaining Centerbeams are heavily faded (Tamiya x-21 base) When I hit the bench this morning it was to plot out the weathering for one of the yellow TTZX and the BCIT green cars. The other 2 cars I already had a good idea and have the sample pictures to go off of.
So I sent a bunch of pictures of medium type weathered cars off the Railcarphotos.com website to the client. He replied let’s do this yellow car similar to the blue one he approved Friday. Medium it will be. Ok!
Then on the green BCIT car he now wants it destroyed enough that it needs to go to the shop for a rebuild and new paint. I was not expecting that and Centerbeams generally don’t get that bad and still be used. Basically, he wants a car similar to some Pulp cars I have done for him. Pulp cars get really banged up and still are used. So…
Next
The color is Panzer Aces #301 by Vallejo Light Rust. By first brushing on with lots of clear water and then dabbing on a wash of the 301 thinned again with water it will flow to the edges of just about everything. I will do this a few times, let dry and apply more until I feel good about it.
The bottom car below the holder is the green BCIT car. Using the same #301 light rust wash as above. I dabbed the wash on, then dipped the damp brush into a pot of light rust pigments by AV but there is no label to give a number or the actual name. When dried there will be adhered thin layer of rust.
Both cars are in the dehydrator for the night.
Next up for both cars will be using Vallejo Air burnt umber as the heavy rust spot coloring
enjoy the night
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I found these some time ago when someone else (I forget who, maybe D&J? ) wanted to make a flat load using a loco.
Ratchet Tie Downs 20 Pack 1-64 Scale by custommodelcreations on Shapeways
Check out Ratchet Tie Downs 20 Pack 1-64 Scale by custommodelcreations on Shapeways and discover more 3D printed products in Scenery.
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Alcomotive
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
I follow this guy's YouTube videos and he does impressive and meticulous work. He is a private airline pilot by trade. He doesn't post often but when he does it's awesome.
Snowman
Well-Known Member
That's exactly the way I gripped clubs too for more than thirty years. Gasoline, golf tee in the grip hole.... It's been only in the last two years that I've even tried actual "gripping solution," and they DO have the advantage of not being (so) flammable. Or smelly. Or oily.
Disadvantage to using the actual approved solution, which I only just discovered the hard way, is that the working time with gasoline is a LOT longer. For someone like me who tweaks alignments looking down the shaft to the head, back up to the grip, over and over again....the longer working time gasoline offers is a definite plus.
On the other hand, gasoline as a grip tape glue solvent DOES leave the smell, and even a week later, it can still be annoying. Even a month later.
Heck...I can smell it on some grips a full year later. To avoid or reduce that, I washed the grips thoroughly using a heavy application of Dawn dishsoap, after a full day first of letting them sit in the sun, so that I wouldn't twist or ruin the alignment simply by cleaning them of the gasoline.
It's also true that...wait for it...wait......wait....
..............even in THIS economy, the "gasoline gripping solution" is still a lot cheaper. Probably cheaper even if you grip your clubs with 100LL (aka AVGAS).
----------------
None of which really pertains to cleaning airbrushes...(oh Flo....more...decaf...please). But at the same time, gasoline to clean airbrushes is a solvent I hadn't considered at all.
And, all that said, if there is a cleanout problem which can (seemingly) be narrowed down to the needle area, it's also possible there is a mechanical problem which appears to be a cleanout problem, but isn't. Something might be bent, and might be snagging or rubbing on a nearby part. It might break loose, but then snag up again...which can mimic a paint/varnish buildup, but which actually isn't.
A magnifying glass might be a big help there.
Just a thought.
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Snowman
Well-Known Member
When you said he's an airline pilot, I automatically assumed you were referring to Luke Towan.*[*YouTube, if you--or anyone else--haven't seen his work]
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I check out the HO scale guys a couple times a month at Shapeways, thanks for sharing the ratchetsI found these some time ago when someone else (I forget who, maybe D&J? ) wanted to make a flat load using a loco.
Ratchet Tie Downs 20 Pack 1-64 Scale by custommodelcreations on Shapeways
Check out Ratchet Tie Downs 20 Pack 1-64 Scale by custommodelcreations on Shapeways and discover more 3D printed products in Scenery.www.shapeways.com
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing. I agree very nice work. I have a few of the same cars he is weathering in the video from BLMA. They are extremely fragile.
He is excellent with the decals. I have been playing around with decals of graffiti from circuscitydecal.com and they are very nice and easy to work with.
Alcomotive
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
He really has a lot of talent. Watching all of his videos is worth the time. Very humble and modest. Good guy.
