Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread


Ok, the 70% to 99% IPA line just triggered a new thought: One goal among the 3D resin printing crowd is to save money when possible (duh), and one of the ways that can be done is to reuse/recycle IPA, which is used as a dip to remove uncured resin from the printed parts. I have the idea IPA is the most widely used rinse among the resin printing crowd, but at least one guy (and now a few more), have experimented with alternatives.

It's been a year or more, and I'm not sure where or who authored the video where I first saw it, but it could be this one:

Jessy thinks pretty well of "MeanGreen." It's available at Lowes here in the US.


Might or might be good for cleaning airbrushes. If you try it, let us know.

FWIW, I think the "orange-or-other-citric-acid" stuff is not dissimilar to products sold for other purposes. Some are sold as "goo" label stickum removers--GOO GONE is one:

Duck brand Adhesive remover is another:

or as gripping activator solution, which is applied to the double-stick tape over which club grips are then slid into position:
www.golfworks.com

The Golfworks Grip Solvent

This economical solvent activates all solvent-activated tapes.
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com

There are other solutions which might work too, and Golfworks also sells one of those (Naptha, rather than citrus based):

The GolfWorks Pro-Blend Grip Solvents | The GolfWorks

The GolfWorks Pro-Blend Grip Solvents
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com

-----

The triggered thought has now run it's course, and so "we return control of your television set (or computer) to you. Until the next time we take you to...

...The...Outer...Limits...".
 
Yeah... IPA was in short supply, as was Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA's big brother) during the pandemic's early days. So, 3D Resin Printing was scrambling for a subsitute.

I decided against the sonic cleaner. A simple wash station (vat with cleaner - I use 91% IPA) with a mixing motor in the bottom and a "french fry basket" are good enough for cleaning prints. BUT, I do a two stage. First stage is a dip in IPA via a pickle jug... basically a basket in a tupperwear style quart jug. Get the worst of the ipa off. Then into the 2nd bath with the spinning fan in the bottom.
 
This morning I did a gray wash on the sides to fade and dull it down some more. On top painted the lock bars and hinges to highlight that detail. Next is the Artisan paint for the rust detail. Some light, dark and a mix of the two for a 3d look.
IMG_5614.jpg
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Snowman said:
Ok, the 70% to 99% IPA line just triggered a new thought: One goal among the 3D resin printing crowd is to save money when possible (duh), and one of the ways that can be done is to reuse/recycle IPA, which is used as a dip to remove uncured resin from the printed parts. I have the idea IPA is the most widely used rinse among the resin printing crowd, but at least one guy (and now a few more), have experimented with alternatives.

It's been a year or more, and I'm not sure where or who authored the video where I first saw it, but it could be this one:

Jessy thinks pretty well of "MeanGreen." It's available at Lowes here in the US.


Might or might be good for cleaning airbrushes. If you try it, let us know.

FWIW, I think the "orange-or-other-citric-acid" stuff is not dissimilar to products sold for other purposes. Some are sold as "goo" label stickum removers--GOO GONE is one:

Duck brand Adhesive remover is another:

or as gripping activator solution, which is applied to the double-stick tape over which club grips are then slid into position:
www.golfworks.com

The Golfworks Grip Solvent

This economical solvent activates all solvent-activated tapes.
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com

There are other solutions which might work too, and Golfworks also sells one of those (Naptha, rather than citrus based):

The GolfWorks Pro-Blend Grip Solvents | The GolfWorks

The GolfWorks Pro-Blend Grip Solvents
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com

-----

The triggered thought has now run it's course, and so "we return control of your television set (or computer) to you. Until the next time we take you to...

...The...Outer...Limits...".
Click to expand...
I use the Isopropyl Alcohol for thinning the Tamia Arcylic paints I use besides cleaning the airbrush. I have read about the MeanGreen. Not ready to start experimenting again. To me the IPS was a great solution to having too much stuff around for painting.

Re-gripping golf clubs. One of my duties as the Bag Room guy at the Country Club I worked through high school and college was re-gripping clubs. Double stick tape wrapped to the specs from the Golf Pros, put a tee in the hole in the grip, add some gasoline, swish it around and push the grip over the grip. Pull the tee out and avoiding being in the way of the spray.

TomO
 
troyphoto said:
Yeah... IPA was in short supply, as was Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA's big brother) during the pandemic's early days. So, 3D Resin Printing was scrambling for a subsitute.

I decided against the sonic cleaner. A simple wash station (vat with cleaner - I use 91% IPA) with a mixing motor in the bottom and a "french fry basket" are good enough for cleaning prints. BUT, I do a two stage. First stage is a dip in IPA via a pickle jug... basically a basket in a tupperwear style quart jug. Get the worst of the ipa off. Then into the 2nd bath with the spinning fan in the bottom.
Click to expand...
I have a buddy who owns a decal company but also does 3D printing. I remember a couple months into the pandemic he was asking for Isopropyl Alcohol either 91 or 99%. Seems folks were making it into hand sanitizer. He came and got 6 bottles of 91% from me, he didn’t want the 70%. That is when I moved to using 99% when I could get it. I was using the 91% for stripping paint or removing decals. The 99% works better and quicker but I have to use more care for those reasons.
 
The sides were dusted with medium earth (closest to surface rust I can duplicate) The oils were not quite dry and this happen before, but gives a nice effect with the wide soft brush I use to blend the powders. The rust spot is done with raw umber for the dark look and the raw sienna for the lighter rust outside the spot.
IMG_5623.jpg
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CambriaArea51 said:
The sides were dusted with medium earth (closest to surface rust I can duplicate) The oils were not quite dry and this happen before, but gives a nice effect with the wide soft brush I use to blend the powders. The rust spot is done with raw umber for the dark look and the raw sienna for the lighter rust outside the spot.View attachment 153961View attachment 153962
Click to expand...
Do you apply the dark umber 1st for the rust spot or the raw sienna first?
 
To my weathering bench!

I tried using a leaded pencil on 4 ribs on the CB floor to simulate bare metal. Looked good IMO.
5814A0DC-280B-4874-9D53-99FED246ED87.jpeg
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then using the clear Krylon last night washed them away. I am experimenting right now on a practice car if the VMS matte clear washes them away. If not since the client liked the picture before I coated it I may need an alternative
38C2172F-39CB-483F-9CFA-A52CA3FF2E09.jpeg
895A37B6-A38B-49F1-90DD-74242DF29BB5.jpeg
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streaking next
 
TLOC said:
I have tried it both ways with the Arcylics and not real happy with either method. I am closer to breaking out the oils for real not the practicing I have been doing with the oils so far.

In practicing with the oils I am finding the streak effects are easier then with Arcyli paints.

The car looks great
Click to expand...
Are you using water mixable oils like I posted above. It's much thicker than acrylics.
As for the streaking effects I use powders.
For your bare metal effect use like a gray or flat aluminum. They will dull when you weather and dull coat.
 
Tom

I have been practicing with Abeitlung 502 Oils. I have been practicing the dot rusting effect. I have gotten some great practice results creating oil washes. I will after these 5 cars do a couple reefers with the oils.

I will try the gray for the bare metal as I do not have a flat aluminum. I have an aluminum from Model Master I will check that out. I use it for machinery cylinder arms as it’s very shiny

This customer does not want powders or in my case Pan Pastels.

Thank you
 
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