Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

[GGNInNScale]

I use a set of yellow to orange to brown to black chalks. I use a Q-tip to smudge the chalk onto the car surfaces. The good thing is it can be reversed or color changed if you want. The bad thing is too much handling takes it off...

 

[TLOC]

I use a set of yellow to orange to brown to black chalks. I use a Q-tip to smudge the chalk onto the car surfaces. The good thing is it can be reversed or color changed if you want. The bad thing is too much handling takes it off...

I have some chalks and tons of Pan Pastels. If I weathered cars just for myself and they stayed on my layout I’d use PP on everything. Since I do weathering commissions I seal chalks and PP the rare times I use them on commission projects.

Most of the structures on the layout are weathered with Pan Pastels and unsealed

 

[Marlin39]

I have some chalks and tons of Pan Pastels. If I weathered cars just for myself and they stayed on my layout I’d use PP on everything. Since I do weathering commissions I seal chalks and PP the rare times I use them on commission projects.

Most of the structures on the layout are weathered with Pan Pastels and unsealed

I use PP for about 90% of my structure weathering. I did use them on this scratchbuilt On30 critter project. I sealed it with Testors Dull Coat and it toned down the colors nicely.

 

[TLOC]

I use PP for about 90% of my structure weathering. I did use them on this scratchbuilt On30 critter project. I sealed it with Testors Dull Coat and it toned down the colors nicely.

Nicely done

 

[GGNInNScale]

I forgot about the sealing part... My dad used some type of fixative when he did this for us back in the 60's and 70's. It was a spray-on material. Memory is not what it used to be...

 

[Marlin39]

Tom,
Here's a couple of the cars you did in action.

I'm still pondering sending you that GP20. I model the early 1960's and SP put the GP20 into service 1959/1960, so it wouldn't be that road beaten yet. We can discuss it later.

 

[TLOC]

Tom,
Here's a couple of the cars you did in action.

I'm still pondering sending you that GP20. I model the early 1960's and SP put the GP20 into service 1959/1960, so it wouldn't be that road beaten yet. We can discuss it later.

Those 3 look good in a great scene

 

[RC Perspective]

I did finish a car, 18 months in the doing!
View attachment 202554View attachment 202555View attachment 202556

I have shown the car a couple times but I like it now. This will be the test bed for adding the ginger spice to imitate grain spillage. But who knows when…

This is that one you weren't happy with initially, yes?

This looks fantastic now!

-RC

 

[RC Perspective]

Alrighty, back for a little post on some Tamiya Weathering powder. This is my process.

Using only the Snow/Soot/Rust kit on this car, after painting the base with Vallejo Black.

I start by dulling the whole car with some of the Soot powder, to slightly fade the decals and remove the shine from the car. The last two panels to the right haven't been hit yet, so you can spot the difference.

Followed by rust highlights with the Rust powder.

Followed by some running white paint, using the Snow powder. I use a toothpick, roll and cake the white powder to the tip of the toothpick. Lay it down flat against the car over the decals. You can roll it side to side, or pull down while applying pressure, or both. Follow it with light down-strokes with the brush.

Final pic in next post.

-RC

 

[RC Perspective]

Finished car, still needing the bogies and wheels done, and some more rust powder on the couplers.

Using the same weathering powder kit to add a little more weathering to this CSX boxcar. I already did a light fade with the Snow powder awhile back; Comparison pic with only the fade,

I only added some extra Soot and Rust powder, highlighting small details and some weathering on the roof. Forgot to take a pic of the end with some wheel splatter on it.

Still need to re-stencil the 82 on top of the graffiti. Car is like many others on the layout; stuck in a perpetual loop of weathering.

-RC

 

[TLOC]

This is that one you weren't happy with initially, yes?

This looks fantastic now!

-RC

Yes that’s one of the unhappy but now happy cars

 

[TLOC]

Alrighty, back for a little post on some Tamiya Weathering powder. This is my process.

Using only the Snow/Soot/Rust kit on this car, after painting the base with Vallejo Black.
View attachment 204791
View attachment 204793
I start by dulling the whole car with some of the Soot powder, to slightly fade the decals and remove the shine from the car. The last two panels to the right haven't been hit yet, so you can spot the difference.
View attachment 204792
Followed by rust highlights with the Rust powder.
View attachment 204794
View attachment 204795
View attachment 204796
Followed by some running white paint, using the Snow powder. I use a toothpick, roll and cake the white powder to the tip of the toothpick. Lay it down flat against the car over the decals. You can roll it side to side, or pull down while applying pressure, or both. Follow it with light down-strokes with the brush.
View attachment 204799
View attachment 204800
View attachment 204797
View attachment 204798

Final pic in next post.

-RC

That is a good looking car! Interesting technique and thanks for sharing it.

I’m going to gave to try this

 

[TLOC]

Finished car, still needing the bogies and wheels done, and some more rust powder on the couplers.
View attachment 204811

Using the same weathering powder kit to add a little more weathering to this CSX boxcar. I already did a light fade with the Snow powder awhile back; Comparison pic with only the fade,
View attachment 204815
View attachment 204814
I only added some extra Soot and Rust powder, highlighting small details and some weathering on the roof. Forgot to take a pic of the end with some wheel splatter on it.
View attachment 204812
View attachment 204813
Still need to re-stencil the 82 on top of the graffiti. Car is like many others on the layout; stuck in a perpetual loop of weathering.

-RC

Excellent. So many folks think you need an air brush and lots of paints to do weathering. Glad you showed this.

Did you do the graffiti?

 

[RC Perspective]

That is a good looking car! Interesting technique and thanks for sharing it.

I’m going to gave to try this

Thanks! I have quite a few cars that I've only used the weathering powder on.

Excellent. So many folks think you need an air brush and lots of paints to do weathering. Glad you showed this.

Did you do the graffiti?

Ever since I first used them, I was hooked. It's real easy to go right to the heavier end of the spectrum, so experiment with it a little; you can always layer and add more. I started with the brush/sponge applicator that comes with it. Easy to go heavy with the sponge part. I've since started using Tamiya brushes for it and like the coverage better. both application methods have their place.

That's Blair Line waterslide graffiti; I have a stack of em cause I love them so much, but just recently started doing it by hand as well.

-RC

 

[TLOC]

Thanks! I have quite a few cars that I've only used the weathering powder on.

Ever since I first used them, I was hooked. It's real easy to go right to the heavier end of the spectrum, so experiment with it a little; you can always layer and add more. I started with the brush/sponge applicator that comes with it. Easy to go heavy with the sponge part. I've since started using Tamiya brushes for it and like the coverage better. both application methods have their place.

That's Blair Line waterslide graffiti; I have a stack of em cause I love them so much, but just recently started doing it by hand as well.

-RC

I’ve gone the other way. I now use graffiti decals on most of my commission work. It’s because of pricing. I’ll do 3 pieces per side of a car for $6.00. Custom graffiti is $50 per side. I still do the custom tags but decals for graffiti are so much easier.

I also use Blair but I’d say 80% are decals from CircusCitydecals.com

 

[migalyto]

I’ll do 3 pieces per side of a car for $6.00.

That is very reasonable, I would of guessed a little more.

 

[TLOC]

That is very reasonable, I would have guessed a little more.

Decals are inexpensive. About $.50 to $.75 each depending on how many are on the sheet and where I buy from. The time to add a decal to a car side is less than a minute and then to settle it in is just waiting time and adding a bit of solvent.

 

[TLOC]

Feeling better I decided I need to ease back into the weathering. 1st up is my own Covered Hopper. Added some rust using Abteilung502 Raw Umber, Raw Umber oils and odorless White spirits.

No additional matte clear coats have been added yet. The oil sheen will be gone when I do that in a few days

The roof needs to be done, the hatches need to be dinged up, the white hatches will get a gray color and the end panels grimed up with track spray. Build date on the car is 1995 and I model 2015 so at 20 years it’s should be dirty and rust streaked. There will be no graffiti on this car even though era calls for it

Thoughts?

 

[TLOC]

Next up was 2 SP cars that will get no additional weathering. 2 sprays of a matte clear coat to kill the sheen on cars being on the rails for the 1st time. The ATSF box car is there to demonstrate the 2 SP cars have have matte clear coated.

 

[CambriaArea51]

Thoughts?

You could keep one hatch clean/ whiter to make it look like a replacement. I've even seen them a different color like green (old BN hatch) so anything is possible to make it your own.