Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread


The day has finally come:

My old school box cars are finished.

Airbrushed Dullcote on the outside braced cars, and attached trucks:

IMG_4469.jpeg

IMG_4474.jpeg


Attached trucks to these other cars that have been waiting, all posted in these pages previously:

IMG_4471.jpeg

IMG_4479.jpeg


I did identical treatment for the trucks and wheels for all of them, but I did something entirely new for the process:

In the past, I used pastel chalks, dipped a paint brush in 70% isopropyl alcohol, , then into the ground chalk dust, and swabbed it on the wheels. I generally did the same with the trucks, maybe mixing a different color of pastels.

This time, I decided to go a more involved painting route. First, the trucks:

I mixed 2 parts Vallejo Dirt, 2 Parts Vallejo Burnt Umber, 1part Mission Models sStandard Rust, and one part Vallejo White, and painted the trucks. I then gave them a wash made from Vallejo Black, and then dry-brushed the above mix back in some spots, then applied Dullcote over the trucks via hand brushing. For my wheels, I still wanted the texture offered by the pastel chalks. So, ground up some brown pastel chalk dust, and poured it into my above mix, stirred it up vigorously, and brushed it on the wheels faces.

I was pleased with the results, especially for something I can’t really see while I’m doing it. It looks a bit rough zoomed in close, but I’m trying to push the bounds of what I can do in N scale:

IMG_4473.jpeg
IMG_4478.jpeg


That last one is a truck from the C&O 1899 box car, an Athearn. The shape of the metal wheels Athearn uses really shows the wheel face work the best.

Here are the colors I used for the trucks and wheels:

IMG_4483.jpeg
 
Today must be the say for the dropsies… I lost a truck screw for one of my cars earlier this afternoon. N scale. Couldn’t find it. Called the Rescue Team in: My 20-year-old daughter. When she came in the room, I “read her in” on Special Ops” for finding N scale parts. She found it, and saved the day and much anguish.
That’s great you had help.

The wife while I am gone today is going to wash my denim painting apron ( no idea why but twice a year) and has my hand held vacuum cleaner she will use inside the pockets. I believe the tip is in there. The area around the spray booth is clear and finding lost parts should be easy. But…

At my weathering bench the space I live in is 8’ x 8’ with a work top 18” deep in a L shape. Lots of places to hide with carts underneath. In the last shop I had the floor painted white and it really did not help when looking for things on the floor. This space is just a concrete floor color. It has 4 carts on wheels but I unfortunately I wasn’t in this space.

The new tips and assorted goodies per FedX should be here Wednesday!
 
The day has finally come:

My old school box cars are finished.

Airbrushed Dullcote on the outside braced cars, and attached trucks:

View attachment 203573
View attachment 203575

Attached trucks to these other cars that have been waiting, all posted in these pages previously:

View attachment 203577
View attachment 203578

I did identical treatment for the trucks and wheels for all of them, but I did something entirely new for the process:

In the past, I used pastel chalks, dipped a paint brush in 70% isopropyl alcohol, , then into the ground chalk dust, and swabbed it on the wheels. I generally did the same with the trucks, maybe mixing a different color of pastels.

This time, I decided to go a more involved painting route. First, the trucks:

I mixed 2 parts Vallejo Dirt, 2 Parts Vallejo Burnt Umber, 1part Mission Models sStandard Rust, and one part Vallejo White, and painted the trucks. I then gave them a wash made from Vallejo Black, and then dry-brushed the above mix back in some spots, then applied Dullcote over the trucks via hand brushing. For my wheels, I still wanted the texture offered by the pastel chalks. So, ground up some brown pastel chalk dust, and poured it into my above mix, stirred it up vigorously, and brushed it on the wheels faces.

I was pleased with the results, especially for something I can’t really see while I’m doing it. It looks a bit rough zoomed in close, but I’m trying to push the bounds of what I can do in N scale:

View attachment 203585View attachment 203586

That last one is a truck from the C&O 1899 box car, an Athearn. The shape of the metal wheels Athearn uses really shows the wheel face work the best.

Here are the colors I used for the trucks and wheels:

View attachment 203589
They look great. While your trucks are an involved process they look worth the effort. Congrats
 
That’s great you had help.



Yeah, it was kind of demoralizing; it was from the Borden wood reefer. Those pieces sat in their jewel boxes for months, and then on D-Day that happened. I reached in the wrong box for an axle, and the screw stuck to my finger long enough to get flung; it was a good bit further away than I thought possible, and behind a box of flex track.

In the last shop I had the floor painted white and it really did not help when looking for things on the floor. This space is just a concrete floor color. It has 4 carts on wheels but I unfortunately I wasn’t in this space.

My floor is a dark reddish-brown laminate. Hard to find black parts ln it, great for stainless steel/chrome. Nozzles would be easy to find, but as you know, you shoot weathering colors through it, and becomes a dirty gray-brown. Hides great on my floor.

“Relating the experience of a friend.”

That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it.
 
The lost air brush tip is still missing. I figured when the replacement tip showed up I would find the missing one. I still might.

I grabbed the parts manual when I decided to order the replacement. Found it on Dick Blick and ordered it. At noon today it was here and after fiddling with it for a few minutes, I pulled out the manual. I had the correct replacement tips for my Paasche VL series airbrush but they didn’t fit!

The reason? You cannot orfer tips for a Paasche airbrush when the tip you lost is for a Badger Renegade Krome air brush. I can’t believe I did that!

So with a check enclosed for return shipping I took the brush, noted on a sticky the issue and sent it and 2 other Badger units for warranty work and a new tip.

I am using a single action Badger 350(??) for clear coats and my Paasche VL unit for weathering
 
The last pictures of gon #2

The original intent was to make one of the covers more weathered than the other. I know I did that by basically leaving 1 cover faded with some rust but not much. The second cover has more rusting and streaking

The gondolas were to be weathered similarly but with difference without graffiti and tags. I went with basic rust oil washes and while I think I achieved that we’ll see what the client says.

The inside of the gondolas were not changed from previous postings

IMG_8521.jpeg
IMG_8520.jpeg


These are Atlas gondolas and they roll very nicely. The couplers were switched out by the client and work except they don’t return to center. I cannot figure out what brand they are.

There are 2 tank cars to show later that he added shelf couplers to but while they work when rolling they also don’t return to center position.
 
What differetiates an airbrush that makes it superior for specialized purposes? Is it performance, or something else, like ease of cleaning, etc.?
I currently use 2 airbrushes when doing weathering. I AB is for more detailed applications like narrow streaking of rust colors. Another is for more broad uses like overall fading of a model. I do use a separate AirBrush for clear coat applications. That’s just my preferences now as for yrears I just used 1 airbrush and mixed everything in the AB cup

On my cellphone from a hockey rink in Appleton Wi home of Harry Houdini
 
What differetiates an airbrush that makes it superior for specialized purposes? Is it performance, or something else, like ease of cleaning, etc.?
It has a wide range of usage. Not only weathering but painting cars, buildings, and bridges for example. Weathering landscape like track,roads, and soot on tunnel portals. I also use it to blend powders and hand painted rust streaks. The bottom of this car was done in powders and blended with AB paint.
IMG_4001.jpg
IMG_4002.jpg
IMG_4009.jpg
 



Back
Top