Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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What differetiates an airbrush that makes it superior for specialized purposes? Is it performance, or something else, like ease of cleaning, etc.?
I currently use 2 airbrushes when doing weathering. I AB is for more detailed applications like narrow streaking of rust colors. Another is for more broad uses like overall fading of a model. I do use a separate AirBrush for clear coat applications. That’s just my preferences now as for yrears I just used 1 airbrush and mixed everything in the AB cup

On my cellphone from a hockey rink in Appleton Wi home of Harry Houdini
 
What differetiates an airbrush that makes it superior for specialized purposes? Is it performance, or something else, like ease of cleaning, etc.?
It has a wide range of usage. Not only weathering but painting cars, buildings, and bridges for example. Weathering landscape like track,roads, and soot on tunnel portals. I also use it to blend powders and hand painted rust streaks. The bottom of this car was done in powders and blended with AB paint.
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I agree with CambriaArea51 that the air brush is a great tool as a blender for colors. As I mentioned I use 2 ABs, with one being used for streaking. I can add rust dots, paint grills and metal grids and other effects but you need a steady hand.
 
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A new project! 11 pieces of rolling stock. A couple cars are going to be left pretty clean with just a very light dusting on the trucks, rusted wheel faces, a spray of matte clear to kill the new model sheen look as these cars were built close to the operating date and when we get that far decide with the client if he wants any track spray. But basically the new cars in transit to the home yard or 1st assignment look. Very light!

9 others to be medium weathered similar to previous photos of the weathering done for forum member Marlin39. There are 2 diesels that will be shown in the locomotive Continuous Thread that CambriaArea51 runs

These will ship 12/15 or before to make it by Christmas. So follow along. The box has been unpacked and will be inspected, trucks and wheels removed, everything cleaned and fading begun. The wheels and trucks will be the 2nd items to be weathered after the fading.





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One of the tank cars I am finishing. Client wants rust but not destroy. What I found about the prototype car from a 2014 photo is the lack of rust streaking. Lots of rust though

Thoughts?

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Edit: Client loves it and approved before dinner. Final clear maybe tonight but for sure Wednesday!
 
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Nice job, needs sandblasting and repainted. 🙃
Its something how the product condenses and causes the rust.
Thanks. One of my buddies who worked for various railroads in Wisconsin told me the prototype car I show is not rusted but that is actually primer. I relayed that to the client but he likes its as it is, rusted and ready to be stripped and repainted.

He explained giving the same explaination you wrote that the constant condensation on the car leads to the rusting.
 
Back to this car! The blue tank car on the turntable…

The streaks and grime I had on this car have been removed. I did leave some coming off of the dome/hatch area
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🚙 Using these as inspiration as the dirtiest car from the number series I could find online
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The picture credits are in the frame of the picture

I’m at a loss as the client wants grime not rust except at joining spots. There is no rusting on this car that is obvious and my imagination of course runs to heavy handed grime and rust.

I mixed up a few oil paints as a wash to create a slightly dirty upper body but with lots of kick up spray underneath the car and end panels. Streaking I’m going to avoid in lieu of a slight dirty build up at the body panel seams that the model shows as welded seams. I’ve got the car in the dehydrator until noon tomorrow. Then if I like it I will add the dirt build up at the welded seams with a AK Interactive weathering pencil. I’m basically on my own with this one as the prototype photos are not grimey enough for the client’s tastes. But once he sees where I’ve gone with it he will offer some good suggestions
 
@TLOC It looks like the furnished model differs from the prototype, in that the prototype photos look like cylinders of the same diameter butt-welded together, whereas the model looks like alternating large and small diameters, wherein the smaller slips into the larger, and is fillet-welded.

Given that the joints are the customer’s area of interest, it might be a chore to make him happy.

Good luck!
 
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@TLOC It looks like the furnished model differs from the prototype, in that the prototype photos look like cylinders of the same diameter butt-welded together, whereas the model looks like alternating large and small diameters, whereas the smaller slips into the larger, and is fillet-welded.

Given that the joints are the customer’s area of interest, it might be a chore to make him happy.

Good luck!
We are in discussions! He’s a return client and once we are on the same page finishing this unit will be fast.
 
Guess what I just found about 1 hour ago. The lost tip that I thought fell to the floor. It didn’t as I found it in a paint palette on my bench. Put it in some Isopropyl Alcohol to clean it. I then put in it the spray brush and my favorite paint tool is 100% again! Yahoo…

I do have 2 Badger other brushes going to Badger Air customer service for warranty work. Tomorrow the replacement tip should be here per USPS tracking!
 
I have 2 Tangent box cars from a client. These have been inspected and cleaned in my normal manner. Warm soapy water, rinsed in warm tap water and dried over night. Client says these cars are basically being delivered right in the era he models, so clean from the manufacturer to the rail yard.

This was discussed before he sent the cars. Going just with a matte clear coat to knock off the Tangent new car sheen
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Took the picture and decided, need a reference. Grabbed a Tangent tank car which has the normal new Tangent car sheen on it for comparison
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I did text the pictures to the client prior to posting the pictures here

I used Tamiya XF 86 flat clear thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol 70% flat clear to 30% IPA sprayed at 18psi
 
These 2 cars were received yesterday
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These are for me and they are very shiny out of the box. I had them in a train testing the cars and track. I decided not to wait till February before I weathered these. So onto the fill-in schedule they went.
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I had to matte clear spray 2 SP boxcars to indicate the cars are coming straight from the builder to a rail yard. Get rid of the sheen! Well I decided to rid the sheen of these 2 cars. Sometimes damn the schedule, the air brush was out, I ran a dust cloth over the cars and sprayed them…

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Tamiya flat clear thinned with IPA
 


My favorite critic has checked these cars out. Seems instead of my PayPal account money these cars were paid accidentally with the credit card. She came down to tell me to transfer the money, yes dear and it’s done!

While downstairs she was inspecting my purchases and she checked in on the credit card payment cars!
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Not flat enough like those 2 Southern Pacific cars also need to be flatter! All 4 were on the same siding

After she went upstairs the client agreed with her that another spray of matte clear is needed.

Explained these 2 are fine as is because the cars get faded next where the 2 SP cars will not be faded

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