Under Construction - Birmingham UK
- Thread starter jim smith-wright
- Start date
Nice work. I like the late afternoon PS look too.
jim smith-wright
Member
Hi All
This time last year I was here,
This building is now done
I have also built my roads for the Wolves end as per
Finished the signal box complex and built the trackwork for the London end
All in all, a productive year I think!
Merry Christmas to all on Model Railroad forum!
Cheers
Jim
This time last year I was here,
This building is now done
I have also built my roads for the Wolves end as per
Finished the signal box complex and built the trackwork for the London end
All in all, a productive year I think!
Merry Christmas to all on Model Railroad forum!
Cheers
Jim
jim smith-wright
Member
Hi All
I thought a quick explanation of how I paint wheels might be helpful so
Before we start it's important to understand you must only do one side at a time and that the wheel must be kept horizontal while it dries. As wheels rotate it doesn't look right if they end up with vertical streaks!
1 - start point. Rim colour and black tyre.
2 - paint the wheel with neat thinners. Then use a dark grey to paint round the center of the tyre (not the inside of the tyre). I use Humbrol 67
3 - paint the wheel hub a sludgy brown. (I use Revell 84). I also paint the inside of the tyre with the same colour. By working wet in wet and being sparing with the paint it will all blend together as it dries.
4 - up until now I have been thinking of a normal tyre on a normal road. However it pays to think about what the vehicle does and the effect that will have on the tyres. For my tippler I assumed it spends a fair amount of time in a muddy environment so i have painted a thin ring of pale brown (humbrol 110) around the outside of the wheel. The mud will normally wear off around the outer edge so running a cotton bud around the outside of the tyre will help give this effect. You might want to consider doing the same with white if your layout is set in winter to represent the salt build up you can get.
5 - finally the tyre and wheel may look a bit glossy. A quick spray of matt varnish and you are done.
HTH
Jim
I thought a quick explanation of how I paint wheels might be helpful so
Before we start it's important to understand you must only do one side at a time and that the wheel must be kept horizontal while it dries. As wheels rotate it doesn't look right if they end up with vertical streaks!
1 - start point. Rim colour and black tyre.
2 - paint the wheel with neat thinners. Then use a dark grey to paint round the center of the tyre (not the inside of the tyre). I use Humbrol 67
3 - paint the wheel hub a sludgy brown. (I use Revell 84). I also paint the inside of the tyre with the same colour. By working wet in wet and being sparing with the paint it will all blend together as it dries.
4 - up until now I have been thinking of a normal tyre on a normal road. However it pays to think about what the vehicle does and the effect that will have on the tyres. For my tippler I assumed it spends a fair amount of time in a muddy environment so i have painted a thin ring of pale brown (humbrol 110) around the outside of the wheel. The mud will normally wear off around the outer edge so running a cotton bud around the outside of the tyre will help give this effect. You might want to consider doing the same with white if your layout is set in winter to represent the salt build up you can get.
5 - finally the tyre and wheel may look a bit glossy. A quick spray of matt varnish and you are done.
HTH
Jim
jim smith-wright
Member
Hi All
A few more road vehicles for your perusal!
Left to right - ABC volvo Ailsa - top and bottom half glued together, filled and sanded smooth - I repainted the middle and re-branded it to WMT livery. Weathered and then the windows were masked before a quick coat of matt varnish. Although the ABC model includes rear view mirrors I substituted them with my own etched ones.
Leyland Constructor in ARC colours. Base toys cab on a modified Knightwing tippler chassis
Dodge commer from EFSI. I filed off the rear wheel arches and redid them lover down. I also modified the radiator and bonnet to represent a diesel engined version. The transfers on all 3 were DIY.
Regards
Jim
A few more road vehicles for your perusal!
Left to right - ABC volvo Ailsa - top and bottom half glued together, filled and sanded smooth - I repainted the middle and re-branded it to WMT livery. Weathered and then the windows were masked before a quick coat of matt varnish. Although the ABC model includes rear view mirrors I substituted them with my own etched ones.
Leyland Constructor in ARC colours. Base toys cab on a modified Knightwing tippler chassis
Dodge commer from EFSI. I filed off the rear wheel arches and redid them lover down. I also modified the radiator and bonnet to represent a diesel engined version. The transfers on all 3 were DIY.
Regards
Jim
jim smith-wright
Member
Hi All
When I first did my platforms i used card for the surface (we throw loads of it away at work). However it wasn't really the exact thickness I needed and it doesn't score well. So having brought a (very) large quantity of 60 thou plasticard I have started again!
The above shows the platform surface (pre weathering). The initial paint is Plasticote suede which gives a good representation of tarmac/concrete texture in 4mm scale. Being tan though it doesn't look like tarmac so I used a base spray of Halfords grey primer which is then oversprayed with a light dusting of black (as per Chris Nevard's method). Once that's all dry I picked out the flagstones with a thinned wash of grey.
HTH
Jim
When I first did my platforms i used card for the surface (we throw loads of it away at work). However it wasn't really the exact thickness I needed and it doesn't score well. So having brought a (very) large quantity of 60 thou plasticard I have started again!
The above shows the platform surface (pre weathering). The initial paint is Plasticote suede which gives a good representation of tarmac/concrete texture in 4mm scale. Being tan though it doesn't look like tarmac so I used a base spray of Halfords grey primer which is then oversprayed with a light dusting of black (as per Chris Nevard's method). Once that's all dry I picked out the flagstones with a thinned wash of grey.
HTH
Jim
jim smith-wright
Member
Hi All
Nearly finished the ballasting on this board. Heres an overview of progress so far.
Cheers
Jim
Nearly finished the ballasting on this board. Heres an overview of progress so far.
Cheers
Jim
this has got to be the best way to ballast new track
Hi Steve
Oh I dunno. The Class 350 EMU's are very nice to look at.
I have got the unit section of my site started. To see more have a look at
http://jsmithwright.demonweb.co.uk/stock/units/units.html
I have also uploaded a few pictures of a small diorama I did at
http://jsmithwright.demonweb.co.uk/other/other/otherb.html
One of the images is reproduced below
Jim
davidpen
Long Haired David
How about this one then.
This is the latest Class 70 which is now occasionally passing over the rail bridge right next to my model shop in Ipswich, UK, on its way to Felixstowe with up to 30 container wagons.
These are made by GE in the US and planned to replace the current Class 66 over time.
This is the latest Class 70 which is now occasionally passing over the rail bridge right next to my model shop in Ipswich, UK, on its way to Felixstowe with up to 30 container wagons.
These are made by GE in the US and planned to replace the current Class 66 over time.
MilesWestern
Member
Wow, I didn't think British Diesels could get any uglier, but they managed to do so! Yikes! That is by far the most unusual looking nose I've ever seen on a diesel. Other than regional "norms" is there some reason like specific BR railway standards that prevents them from importing Dash-9's and GEVO's with American Safety Cabs into the UK? Clearance Issues?
Of course it's all a moot point on your spectacular layout! I always come to check it when you update something, and it's REALLY coming together. I'm continually impressed with your adherence to realism and prototype fidelity on a level VERY few people achieve.
Of course it's all a moot point on your spectacular layout! I always come to check it when you update something, and it's REALLY coming together. I'm continually impressed with your adherence to realism and prototype fidelity on a level VERY few people achieve.
tankist
Active Member
that's a matter of personal taste. i actually like those. verity.
while US locos are no doubt working horses, they look almost the same (gp40x vs GP50?). Europeans make locomotives that stand out.
MilesWestern
Member
Haha, so true. I suppose since the last twin-cab diesels in the US were Baldwin Baby-Faced 6 axle diesels http://baldwindiesels.railfan.net/guide/drx-6-4-2000/index.html The Europeans have had time to modify, and tailor the dual cab units to their needs.
vato loco
Just a Foolish Saint!
MW, we almost went the way of the UK. If you look at our earliest locomotives we were headed that way! Take a look at this site:
http://home.att.net/~Berliner-Ultrasonics/boxcabs.html
Lot of electric locomotives were and still are twin cab!
jim smith-wright
Member
There is indeed this picture shows just how small UK loading gauge is compared to the US. - the Uk locos (class 66) are under the blue tarps.
HTH
Jim
http://www.trainnet.org/Libraries/Lib006/UWRAPS1.JPG
jim smith-wright
Member
Hi All
A good day today! I have for a long time been looking for a tube to make one of Birmingham's most distinctive buildings. I have approached loads of acrylic manufacturers and they have all come back with quotes over the £500 mark! Then my good friend Tim suggested fish tanks (I had already looked but never hurts to have another go) and eventually I found a company called Reef One who make them. Spoke to a very helpful chap called Rob who was able to donate 2 reject tanks. (I say donate as he only charged me a tenner for 2 including shipping!). They are a bit smaller than the real thing scales out to but its that or pay hundred of pounds for a few extra cm's on the diameter. - No brainer! The 2 together are also a tag shorter (a whole 6cm) than scale but compared to a 4mm scale class 47 its not exactly noticable is it?
More info on the real building can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotunda_(Birmingham)
I wont be starting this for a fair while yet but its nice when a long search comes to an end! Thanks Rob!
Cheers
A good day today! I have for a long time been looking for a tube to make one of Birmingham's most distinctive buildings. I have approached loads of acrylic manufacturers and they have all come back with quotes over the £500 mark! Then my good friend Tim suggested fish tanks (I had already looked but never hurts to have another go) and eventually I found a company called Reef One who make them. Spoke to a very helpful chap called Rob who was able to donate 2 reject tanks. (I say donate as he only charged me a tenner for 2 including shipping!). They are a bit smaller than the real thing scales out to but its that or pay hundred of pounds for a few extra cm's on the diameter. - No brainer! The 2 together are also a tag shorter (a whole 6cm) than scale but compared to a 4mm scale class 47 its not exactly noticable is it?
More info on the real building can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotunda_(Birmingham)
I wont be starting this for a fair while yet but its nice when a long search comes to an end! Thanks Rob!
Cheers
MilesWestern
Member
Wow! I can't wait to see this take shape, literally!
jim smith-wright
Member
Hi All
Something that has been on my 'nearly finished' list for a LONG time is my 07-16 tamper. Built from the Roger Murray etched brass bits with a lot of scratchbuilding here she rests in the siding outside of my signal box.
Cheers
Jim
Something that has been on my 'nearly finished' list for a LONG time is my 07-16 tamper. Built from the Roger Murray etched brass bits with a lot of scratchbuilding here she rests in the siding outside of my signal box.
Cheers
Jim
