The Weathering Thread

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
dthurman said:
The only problem I had with Dullcote on the car first is when I used oils and thinner, I got that cloud effect like you do with rubbing alcohol. I was a little perturbed when that happened, so I just covered the hopper with more chalk. You are right though, it does give a better bite for chalk. I think I need to pre-game each car I am weathering and decide if it's a chalk job and acrylics or an oil and thinner job. Just something I had happen, it could be the type of thinner I used.
I've heard that another layer of Dullcote will clear that up. I've never had the problem, so I don't know from personal experience.
 
D

dthurman

Guest
I just finished this CNW GP50, side A came out better then side B :mad:

I did it with PollyScale paints. Talk about a pain trying to get a brush to put paint where you want to have it go.
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
David, that isn't half bad. I've actually seen a locomotive with a burnt section right near your black/brown rusty area. And that roof looks just plain faded. Looks like that GP38-2 that's working the yard...Blue with white faded areas.(CSX). It looks like a locomotive that's done its share of work, and that's a good thing. But the trucks are fantastic. One more item of interest: You have a rust streak on the nose on one side...dunno which though. That seems to be a common thing on all 4-axle EMD hood units. Don't know why, but it's interesting to model. The noses are always rusted out for some reason...
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
A mere $1.77...

Well, the WC bummed out on me. A mere $1.77 on eBay. Although, I look back and see why some people were critical about it. But then again, I haven't seen some of them weathering anything and trying to sell it on eBay.:mad: In fact, some of them haven't ever weathered anything. Oh well, the Railbox is looking good. I'll hopefully kick rear-end with it on eBay:p:D. I think I'll go post a pic of that Railbox over on Rich Divizio's forum, and see what they have to say.
 
D

dthurman

Guest
Matt

I worked from some GP50 CNW pictures. They all seemed to be pretty rusty at the engineers side by the battery box. One photo had some major filth near the from filters (not sure if that's where the turbo is or not, I thought I read somewhere that CNW didn't do turbos for a time. I did drybrush, plus some reg paint, then did a wash with water and paper towel to suck it up. Your right, the trucks came out far better then I expected. It is dedicated as a siding sitter ;) for when the coal trains pull threw and need some additional power, but not sure why 2 SD80 Macs would ever need any help, when an SD40-2 is running DPU on the rear :)

I wanted to try a dry brush and paint weathering job on an engine, I normally use chalks for them, which I think I get better results. Now the next attempt will be both, and try and duplicate the truck effect. I have some scale chains I need to start mounting on the engines. I just need a N scale hand and welder now.
 
D

dthurman

Guest
Per Matt's request here is the latest weathering job I did. It's a Kato SD40-2 Union Pacific N scale engine.

I first went and scoured the railroad photos here and at Railpictures.net to get a good sampling of UP SD's and the various states of dirt and grung they all seemed to have accumulated. I also wanted som close ups of the trucks to see if I could duplicate the oil and grease in them.

I had the night before used my airbrush and sprayed it with PollyScale Flat Finish. After using it the other day I really like it better then Dullcote, 1. no fumes, 2. it dries a lot faster and 3. I don't think I will get that clouding I would get if I use an achohol was with india ink someday.

I left the engine apart from the shell, and used dry brushing of Pollyscale Dirt/Mud/Dust for the dirty areas. I then used Pollyscale Tarnished Black and Grimy Black for the fans and filter areas (I need to add some more to the back air intakes I noticed) and first used the tarnish on the tip of my smaller brush, and then dipped it in water, and dabbed it on a paper towel t get some of the paint off, and then painted the fans and filters. I then did the same with the grimy black. I also used some ModelMaster Flat White to paint the handrails, and used the PS mud on the walkway, I dabbed the mud on a paper towel also, and then just straight down and just poked the walkway to get a walked on effect. Not easy to see in the pictures, but it added a nice effect. I also dry brushed down from the sides with mud and dirt for that unwashed effect that UP is good at ;) and then took some grimy black and diluted that and washed the from low hood and the top of the cab and behind it. I thne made sure the brush was dry-drier and went back over the grimy black again to sontrol the effect on the low hood and cab. I also dry brushed dirt and mud along the side sills of the walkway.

I let everything dry on the separated shell and worked on the trucks, I used Tarnish Black as the base and then dry brushed the trucks with Grimy Black, Dirt and Mud. After those dried, I took oily black and hit the truck journals to get that grease look.

After everything was dry, I took black, yellow, and brown chalks and just added them according to the grouping of pictures I had, I also hit the "newly painted" handrails with black lightly to get that dirt look on them. I next used black on the low hood and the cab and cab sides starting at the top and going down, I took the brown chalk and went up on the cab sides. I next dusted the fans and filters to get a soot effect. I used the yellow to add a fade effect to the UP yellow.

Then I just put it all together and added another unit to the coal drags that serve the West Presence Power Gas & Light Company :)
 
D

dthurman

Guest
Thanks Eric, you did a great job on your units with the chalk, I need to get the effect better. I think I need to find a couple of "super" small stiff brushes. I found one the other day at Michaels that was soft and pointed, which also worked well but still too wide. I am thinking about weathering the dog ;)
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
Thanks for posting that, David. That really does look good!

I experimented with the clear parts cement tonight. I'm finally getting that down pat.

I hope to have the Railbox finished by Saturday. Dunno if it will be or not, though.
 
D

dthurman

Guest
The beauty of Normal Scale, I can knock a car or engine out in a day :)
 

AGGRO

I, Aggro...
Speaking of Normal scale, I've got some Micro-Trains and MDC cars left over from when I tried to go into N a few years ago. l was just going to sell them straight on eBay, but I think I'll weather them with the likeness of my HO projects. I get more money that way. Weathered vs non-weathered.
 




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)


ModelRailroadForums.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com

RailroadBookstore.com - An online railroad bookstore featuring a curated selection of new and used railroad books. Railroad pictorials, railroad history, steam locomotives, passenger trains, modern railroading. Hundreds of titles available, most at discount prices! We also have a video and children's book section.

ModelRailroadBookstore.com - An online model railroad bookstore featuring a curated selection of new and used books. Layout design, track plans, scenery and structure building, wiring, DCC, Tinplate, Toy Trains, Price Guides and more.

Top