Switch stand
- Thread starter zoegraf
- Start date
Well, here in Arcadia it's 2012 & they are still using them on the RR. I saw some in Bartow & Plant City about 3 months ago.
So I'm guessing these have been around for some time.
Trussrod
Well-Known Member
Hi Zoe,
Yes, the stand has been around a long time and as Larry said still in use.
Alexander Scales Models makes one almost Identical to that one as well as NJ but I'm not sure if either are still in business? Both were functional too but a bit of a pain to get positioned properly.
Caboose Industries makes one that I use the 204S High Level Switch Stand. The 'S' stands for sprung as the throw bar has springs in it which holds tension on the points so they connect with the Stock rails fairly firmly.
It's fully functional too and rotates the targets for a visual during operation so you know which way the points are thrown. It also comes with various style of targets and connectors. I just bend my throw rod at a 90* angle and insert it in the hole in the throw bar on the machine.
I also added a small bit of white Teflon grease to the mechanism that works the throw bar.
I just ordered eight for myself from my supplier
Here's Cabooses site, the High Level 204S is just like the one shown on the main page.
http://www.cabooseind.com
Yes, the stand has been around a long time and as Larry said still in use.
Alexander Scales Models makes one almost Identical to that one as well as NJ but I'm not sure if either are still in business? Both were functional too but a bit of a pain to get positioned properly.
Caboose Industries makes one that I use the 204S High Level Switch Stand. The 'S' stands for sprung as the throw bar has springs in it which holds tension on the points so they connect with the Stock rails fairly firmly.
It's fully functional too and rotates the targets for a visual during operation so you know which way the points are thrown. It also comes with various style of targets and connectors. I just bend my throw rod at a 90* angle and insert it in the hole in the throw bar on the machine.
I also added a small bit of white Teflon grease to the mechanism that works the throw bar.
I just ordered eight for myself from my supplier
Here's Cabooses site, the High Level 204S is just like the one shown on the main page.
http://www.cabooseind.com
Thanks for the info!
Trussrod
Well-Known Member
Your welcome Zoe,
I've used the Caboose Industries High Level Switch Stands HSS the past with very good results.
The problem I had, was my heavy hand in attempting to force the little throw arm when the points were stuck for one one reason or another?
This always seemed to happen when track crew weren't around to correct the problem. I guess the little folk think they are just supposed to stand there and look busy.
In actuality my heavy hand trying to force a stuck or hard to move set of points, on my home made switches, with the sturdy but somewhat delicate shaft the throw is connected to caused the damage to the shaft and rendered the HSS disabled.
I still have one of the old Caboose HSS in use from years back so let me compare the control arm shaft diameter no to see if it's still the same? They do look the same and if used with care should last a long time!
I've used the Caboose Industries High Level Switch Stands HSS the past with very good results.
The problem I had, was my heavy hand in attempting to force the little throw arm when the points were stuck for one one reason or another?
This always seemed to happen when track crew weren't around to correct the problem. I guess the little folk think they are just supposed to stand there and look busy.
In actuality my heavy hand trying to force a stuck or hard to move set of points, on my home made switches, with the sturdy but somewhat delicate shaft the throw is connected to caused the damage to the shaft and rendered the HSS disabled.
I still have one of the old Caboose HSS in use from years back so let me compare the control arm shaft diameter no to see if it's still the same? They do look the same and if used with care should last a long time!
Thanks again.
Where can I view pics of your layout especially your hand laid switches/turnouts?
Thanks. I checked out their site and found the switch stand, but no price. Will have to e-mail them.
I'm guessing this stand would be prototypical for the fifties also.
I put a lot of work into my hand made turnouts and would really like to finish them off with nice stands.
Also need some spikes and plates to detail them since I only glued and soldered the rails on.
Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
Thanks.!
Quite the site. I especially like the joint bars and the Nickel Silver tieplates with mixed holes and dummy spike heads. I'm guessing this means you don't spike every tie and the ties in-between get the dummy spike heads.
A bit pricey to do the turnouts with plates, but maybe worth it for a turnout close to the edge of the layout or on a diorama project where the detail can be seen.
Haven't figured out if the turnout plates are suitable for 1950's period; I think what they have maybe too modern. Anyhow, decisions. decisions, decisions. Phew!
Trussrod
Well-Known Member
Hi Zoe,
I think I have some in my photos on the site under 'Trussrod's pictures'.
In relation to a prior post of yours, which I just got the jist of from reading Carey's post above, you mentioned something about tie plates on some other turnout that I guess was built to specs- [I didn't read it.] Central Valley had a line of flexable ties for both Branch line and main line as well flexable switch ties
made in a single unit and all of these had prototypical and in scale tie plates molded on top of each tie that of course positioned the rail weather hand laying your own as I am or building the switches. They don't have any holes
predrilled for small spikes like Micro Engineering sells but the highly detailed ties and plates drill easily with a High Speed Steel drill bit. Whoever made the molds for Central is a master machinist as the detail is phenominal.
I used to have them available through my prior supplier but when the owner passed away that all went by the Wayside! Damn!
Keep in touch as I see if I can't go direct if Central Valley is still in business?
I have a box of CVR branch line ties put away because I couldn't decide on how to lay the rails on them. Someone suggested I only had to glue them on, but I like my rail a little more sturdier than that. As for the drilling, I wonder what size bit is required and would it break easy.
bennyboots
Noob model railroader
http://www.osbornmodelkits.com/httpdocs/HO_scale_railroad.htm
This guy makes laser cut ones, some assembly required. Nice if you take your time and paint them. He said they can be made operational but you have to be careful.
$10 for a pack of 6
This guy makes laser cut ones, some assembly required. Nice if you take your time and paint them. He said they can be made operational but you have to be careful.
$10 for a pack of 6
Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
Walthers Goo, when used as a contact cement, or heated by a soldering iron after placing the rails on the ties, will hold the rail securely forever.
I used this method to hold rails down on some bridges on some of my earlier layouts. I applied the Goo to the rails, placed them on the bridges, (held in place with 3-point gauges), and heated the rails with a soldering iron. Some of these bridges lasted over 20 years with no problems.
Much appreciated info. I'll order some Goo and give it a go on a diorama I want to build.
Trussrod
Well-Known Member
Those are the tie strips I'm starting to use myself for my upper level, especially where I have to lean over the table on a step stool/lader do to it being further back and these should go down much easier. The only thing about them I find objectionable is that they are black in color so I spray mine with light acrylic tan
as I want them to look weathered and will go over them with some Driftwood and maybe some thinned rail brown on a few?
I just looked at their product listing in the booklet that was included and they list a number of detailing parts including 4 different switch stands. They are here in California over on the Coast I believe so I'll have to give them a call to find out if I can offer their line of items for sale?
As far fastening the track to the tie strips, which I've already tacked in place in a few spots, with a spike on each side of the flex strip between the ties, I'm then drilling a small .019" hole in-between their two existing simulated spikes to allow my .021/22 Railcraft/Micro-Engineering tiny spikes which have a total length of .314" to snugly fit right along the edge of the rail base and extend down into the sound board. This will hold the rail and ties in place till I get a bit of ballast/earth down with some diluted White glue.
As long as your half steady using a cordless Dremel tool such as their model 83001 available from Amazon at a very good price, you shouldn't have too much of a problem. If you have a pair of Vernier Calipers handy measure the diameter of your spikes shaft to determine the size of drill bit to use, about .002 smaller for a good snug fit to hold the rail firmly in place.
Also due to the fact the spacing in the tie plates may exceed the width of the rail base it might also be wise to get some rail gauges to ensure proper spacing between the rails but I would imagine if using lighter weight rail such as code 55 if the rail was laid so it was pushed against inward edge of the of the seating area on each side the spacing should turn out fine? I haven't actually laid any rail yet, yes I did on a short deserted spur section some HoBo have claimed so I can check that as I used code 55 for that. I'll get a picture a little later.
Trussrod
Well-Known Member
Say Zoe,
In relation to what Carey mentioned above, no offense meant Carey, but I would strongly advise against 'it' if it's that permanent because should decide you want to or need to move the track slightly if it's glued down that solidly your going to be in a world of hurt.
I say to use something like Woodland Scenics Hob-E-Tac, every 5th tie or so, which gives a removable/repositionable but firm hold and if your going to spike the rail to make it look more realistic ever six ties or so with pre drilled holes to fit your spikes that should be plenty of hold till your sure everything is operating properly and start putting some ballast down. Always allow for corrections till you've operated your trains awhile to ensure everything runs the way you want it too.
Also be sure that the ends of the rail don't have any burrs to them especially on the inside edges especially when the rail has been cut.
Hth
In relation to what Carey mentioned above, no offense meant Carey, but I would strongly advise against 'it' if it's that permanent because should decide you want to or need to move the track slightly if it's glued down that solidly your going to be in a world of hurt.
I say to use something like Woodland Scenics Hob-E-Tac, every 5th tie or so, which gives a removable/repositionable but firm hold and if your going to spike the rail to make it look more realistic ever six ties or so with pre drilled holes to fit your spikes that should be plenty of hold till your sure everything is operating properly and start putting some ballast down. Always allow for corrections till you've operated your trains awhile to ensure everything runs the way you want it too.
Also be sure that the ends of the rail don't have any burrs to them especially on the inside edges especially when the rail has been cut.
Hth
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Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
Not really in any hurt at all. Just reheat said rail with the soldering iron again and reposition. This is the recommended method for using Goo in laying rail.
Thanks. I bought some of these from him and really like them.
