Starting the new layout!
- Thread starter Myowngod
- Start date
Nothing major. I've been working on some structures for the layout, but I haven't been down to the layout in a while. I guess I should post some pix of my builds. It looks like I'm working on the infrastructure of the layout world. The past 2 builds have been a propane storage globe for the refinery scene, and an electrical substation and high tension towers. You know all those 1/87 people roaming my world need power and light, too.
DJ Orion NS5426
NS & Conrail
Can't wait to see more. I just joined and last night I spent about an hour or more following the progress of your layout haha. Awesome, awesome work!!
DJ, Welcome to the forum. This is a great place to share your modeling ideas and questions.
Thanks for the positive feedback. That makes me feel fantastic to hear such words. I hope some of my babble has helped you with your layout. I hope to get some new post up soon. I plan on heading down to the layout in about 2-3 weeks.
Thanks for the positive feedback. That makes me feel fantastic to hear such words. I hope some of my babble has helped you with your layout. I hope to get some new post up soon. I plan on heading down to the layout in about 2-3 weeks.
Like the title says,"It's been a LONG time" since my last progress post.
I just haven't had the time to get down to the layout lately. I have been working on a few structures and got a couple trips down there. Another reason I haven't post much is my old computer was just making it not enjoyable to post pictures and videos. It served better as a paper weight. Now I have a NEW LAPTOP!!! (Yeah... with great fanfare.)
Now, onto the the progress post...
One project that I worked on was in the refinery/industrial area of the layout. I haven't done anything to this area before because I just wasn't sure what I wanted there. Originally I was thinking of a mine/quarry site that is found in the general area of Manayunk, Pa. But that really never felt right to me. I think it was my Dad that suggested the refinery idea. I always liked the look of the large Sunco, Sun Oil Company that is along the Schuylkill river, between rt 76 and Pasayunk Ave in Philly. So I found some really good deals on eBAY for the Walthers refinery kit, a Vollmer tank kit, a liquid propane LP sphere storage tank, and an old tyco tank plan on painting and weathering.
I always new there was going to be an access hatch in this spot, but not sure of how to hide it or the structures and scenery around it. Here's how I created the hatch.
I used 7/16" OSB and cut out the main horizontal surfaces. These are supported by 1x3 boards. The hatch has a 1x2" frame underneath that keeps it aligned on the supports.
Here is the hatch in place.
Once I was happy with the placement of the hatch, I turned my attention to the upper raised platform and tunnels that hid the corner tracks. This broke up the continuous look to the track run, and gave me more room to place industrial structures. Original I wanted to build a mountain in this corner, but with the switch from quarry to refinery the voided that idea.
The retaining wall is made from 1/8" Masonite or tempered hardboard. This is attached to the same kind of 1x3" and OSB sub-structure as the hatch.
Satisfied again, I started to clean up the area and place the refinery structures in their approximate spots. If anyone has any suggestions on where the placement might better suit, then please respond. The backdrops are temporarily place for atmosphere.
Here is a VIDEO of the transformation of the area.
Thanks for reading. And there's more to come...SCENERY FINALLY!!! Stay tuned.
I just haven't had the time to get down to the layout lately. I have been working on a few structures and got a couple trips down there. Another reason I haven't post much is my old computer was just making it not enjoyable to post pictures and videos. It served better as a paper weight. Now I have a NEW LAPTOP!!! (Yeah... with great fanfare.)
Now, onto the the progress post...
One project that I worked on was in the refinery/industrial area of the layout. I haven't done anything to this area before because I just wasn't sure what I wanted there. Originally I was thinking of a mine/quarry site that is found in the general area of Manayunk, Pa. But that really never felt right to me. I think it was my Dad that suggested the refinery idea. I always liked the look of the large Sunco, Sun Oil Company that is along the Schuylkill river, between rt 76 and Pasayunk Ave in Philly. So I found some really good deals on eBAY for the Walthers refinery kit, a Vollmer tank kit, a liquid propane LP sphere storage tank, and an old tyco tank plan on painting and weathering.
I always new there was going to be an access hatch in this spot, but not sure of how to hide it or the structures and scenery around it. Here's how I created the hatch.
I used 7/16" OSB and cut out the main horizontal surfaces. These are supported by 1x3 boards. The hatch has a 1x2" frame underneath that keeps it aligned on the supports.
Here is the hatch in place.
Once I was happy with the placement of the hatch, I turned my attention to the upper raised platform and tunnels that hid the corner tracks. This broke up the continuous look to the track run, and gave me more room to place industrial structures. Original I wanted to build a mountain in this corner, but with the switch from quarry to refinery the voided that idea.
The retaining wall is made from 1/8" Masonite or tempered hardboard. This is attached to the same kind of 1x3" and OSB sub-structure as the hatch.
Satisfied again, I started to clean up the area and place the refinery structures in their approximate spots. If anyone has any suggestions on where the placement might better suit, then please respond. The backdrops are temporarily place for atmosphere.
Here is a VIDEO of the transformation of the area.
Thanks for reading. And there's more to come...SCENERY FINALLY!!! Stay tuned.
4Starcstms
Member
Saw the clip on YouTube, ya did a good job on the transformation. Can't wait to see more. Oh as a side note IIRC Model Railroader did a article on refineries some time back. Ill dig thru my collection and see if I can locate the article.
Thanks 4star,
I would appreciate that if you found that article. Maybe scan it and email it to me.
OK, So I'm finally getting down to the nitty gritty...
THE SCENERY!yippy
The last trip down I got a chance to start greening this layout up a bit. I started by masking off the track and plastic wrapping the Green lane Bridge. I spent way to much time on that bridge to have plaster splattered all over it.
The technique I use to adhere the base texture to the plaster shell is flat interior wall paint. Any tan/brown color will do for this. Most hardware or paint stores will have a mistake pile. Ask to dig through that and find a nice color that suits the area you're modeling. Even if it's not perfect you don't see much of it after the greenery is applied. Re-tinting can be done also for a better match. This paint acts like a glue for the base texture. I had a bunch of old Lifelike bags of tan coarse material. I sprinkle that on pretty heavy. Then I spray it with a little 70% rubbing alcohol (the other 30% is for me ). This is followed by a mix of diluted white glue and water, about a 50/50 mix. I really like the scenic express brand of textures. They have a nice meadow pasture blend that contains static grass, little bits of twigs and rocks. it's kind of an all in one blend. GREAT STUFF.
Here's some shots of the first hill I greened up.
This is a VIDEO of the area I did after the first hill was done for the night. In the next post I start adding plaster rock mold to the area.
THE SCENERY!yippy
The last trip down I got a chance to start greening this layout up a bit. I started by masking off the track and plastic wrapping the Green lane Bridge. I spent way to much time on that bridge to have plaster splattered all over it.
The technique I use to adhere the base texture to the plaster shell is flat interior wall paint. Any tan/brown color will do for this. Most hardware or paint stores will have a mistake pile. Ask to dig through that and find a nice color that suits the area you're modeling. Even if it's not perfect you don't see much of it after the greenery is applied. Re-tinting can be done also for a better match. This paint acts like a glue for the base texture. I had a bunch of old Lifelike bags of tan coarse material. I sprinkle that on pretty heavy. Then I spray it with a little 70% rubbing alcohol (the other 30% is for me
). This is followed by a mix of diluted white glue and water, about a 50/50 mix. I really like the scenic express brand of textures. They have a nice meadow pasture blend that contains static grass, little bits of twigs and rocks. it's kind of an all in one blend. GREAT STUFF.Here's some shots of the first hill I greened up.
This is a VIDEO of the area I did after the first hill was done for the night. In the next post I start adding plaster rock mold to the area.
Secondhandmodeler
All new now!
Nice to see you back at it. Isn't it amazing how good it feels to green things up a little? This layout looks like "the big one" modelers keep thinking about building some day. Keep up the good work.
Things are getting a little "rocky" around here.
After I greened up the place a bit, I REALLY want to start molding some rocks.
I use homemade molds that I have made over the last 18yrs. I use liquid latex rubber and gauze over rocks to make them. You want to find rocks that have a lot of texture(nooks and crannies). They show up much better and more realistic to scale in HO.
Mixing the plaster is a similar process as when I did the paper towel soaked covering over the cardboard webbing. I just mix it a bit thicker then the paper towel mix. This time I used Plaster Of Paris (POP). I need it to be strong and set up quickly. I have always use POP instead of hydro-cal mainly because of $$$. I like to add a grey Tints-all to the plaster to help get the finished color where I need it to be. Don''t be to afraid to add a lot to the batches, it dries lighter then what it looks like in the wet stage. In fact, I wish I made mine dark to start after seeing it completely dry. If you're not happy with the color, you can always darken it with washes of diluted tint.
Once I mix the POP I wet the molds I'm going to use with "Wet Water" (water with a few drops of dish soap in it.) It helps the plaster release from the mold, achieving sharp lines that look like jagged rock.
Fill the molds well and let the mix set up for a minute before applying it to the hardshell. I like to do 1 large mold or 2 small/medium molds at a time. Whatever your hands can handle. Also wet the surface of the hardshell so that the water isn't drawn out of the POP to quickly. That could ruin the mold. Once it has set a bit, press the mold onto the hardshell and hold it there for a minute or 2. (patience) Be sure that the edge all around are making good contact. If the POP oozes out don't worry, you can chip away the excess once the mold is removed. SAVE THE CHIPS!!! They can be used for rubble at the base of the cliffs. Makes sure to color them the same as the finished rock so that they don't stand out like a sore thumb.
Below is on of the molds in place after a couple minutes.
Once the POP has setup for about 5-7 minutes (this varies depending on humidity and temperature) start to peal the side of the mold up all around. Then you peal from one side to the other. If you get any resistance or if it looks to wet still STOP... let it setup another minute. Then finish peeling off the mold. If some of the mold falls off the hardshell don't worry, you can always add a smaller rock mold in that place or... COVER IT WITH A BUSH!
Here's an area with a mold in place and a few just completed rocks.
Don't worry if the rocks don't have exactly the same color tone, Mother Nature's doesn't either. I evened out some of the color differences by spraying a wash of diluted Tints-All across the whole area. After that spray is dry I can either darken it up some more or start to hi-lite and shadow the surface of the rocks. This will really bring out the texture of the molds.
Here's some photos and a VIDEO of the area.
And finally a couple overall views of the area I scenic-ed on the last trip.
I can't wait to get back down to the layout to add more scenery and trees and bushes to this area.
Again, thanks for checking this out.
After I greened up the place a bit, I REALLY want to start molding some rocks.
I use homemade molds that I have made over the last 18yrs. I use liquid latex rubber and gauze over rocks to make them. You want to find rocks that have a lot of texture(nooks and crannies). They show up much better and more realistic to scale in HO.
Mixing the plaster is a similar process as when I did the paper towel soaked covering over the cardboard webbing. I just mix it a bit thicker then the paper towel mix. This time I used Plaster Of Paris (POP). I need it to be strong and set up quickly. I have always use POP instead of hydro-cal mainly because of $$$. I like to add a grey Tints-all to the plaster to help get the finished color where I need it to be. Don''t be to afraid to add a lot to the batches, it dries lighter then what it looks like in the wet stage. In fact, I wish I made mine dark to start after seeing it completely dry. If you're not happy with the color, you can always darken it with washes of diluted tint.
Once I mix the POP I wet the molds I'm going to use with "Wet Water" (water with a few drops of dish soap in it.) It helps the plaster release from the mold, achieving sharp lines that look like jagged rock.
Fill the molds well and let the mix set up for a minute before applying it to the hardshell. I like to do 1 large mold or 2 small/medium molds at a time. Whatever your hands can handle. Also wet the surface of the hardshell so that the water isn't drawn out of the POP to quickly. That could ruin the mold. Once it has set a bit, press the mold onto the hardshell and hold it there for a minute or 2. (patience
) Be sure that the edge all around are making good contact. If the POP oozes out don't worry, you can chip away the excess once the mold is removed. SAVE THE CHIPS!!! They can be used for rubble at the base of the cliffs. Makes sure to color them the same as the finished rock so that they don't stand out like a sore thumb.Below is on of the molds in place after a couple minutes.
Once the POP has setup for about 5-7 minutes (this varies depending on humidity and temperature) start to peal the side of the mold up all around. Then you peal from one side to the other. If you get any resistance or if it looks to wet still STOP... let it setup another minute. Then finish peeling off the mold. If some of the mold falls off the hardshell don't worry, you can always add a smaller rock mold in that place or... COVER IT WITH A BUSH!
Here's an area with a mold in place and a few just completed rocks.
Don't worry if the rocks don't have exactly the same color tone, Mother Nature's doesn't either.
I evened out some of the color differences by spraying a wash of diluted Tints-All across the whole area. After that spray is dry I can either darken it up some more or start to hi-lite and shadow the surface of the rocks. This will really bring out the texture of the molds.Here's some photos and a VIDEO of the area.
And finally a couple overall views of the area I scenic-ed on the last trip.
I can't wait to get back down to the layout to add more scenery and trees and bushes to this area.
Again, thanks for checking this out.
4Starcstms
Member
Ron, no luck in finding that article. We moved back in April and half my stuff (okay MOST of it) is still packed, including magazines. I'll spend a bit looking again today. I thinkI might be better off searching on MR's site..
The scenery is the cool part, watching it all come to life. And IMHO all it takes is practice to get good, and the refusal to give up.. cant try it only once and give up when it doesnt turn out like somebody's who has been doing it for awhile.. Like so many other things in life..
The scenery is the cool part, watching it all come to life. And IMHO all it takes is practice to get good, and the refusal to give up.. cant try it only once and give up when it doesnt turn out like somebody's who has been doing it for awhile.. Like so many other things in life..
4Starcstms
Member
July 2010 -
Ethanol: An industry you can model
By Detlef Kurpanek
Add this modern plant to your layout
I know this isnt the article I remember, I'm still looking -
Ethanol: An industry you can model
By Detlef Kurpanek
Add this modern plant to your layout
I know this isnt the article I remember, I'm still looking -
Thanks for your efforts. You're right, I really enjoy the scenery part of the hobby. I can't wait to start really adding details to this area...
I've been YouTubing for inspiration and have enjoyed watching your progress over a scattered number of posts. I finally read where you pointed a viewer here to see the entire chronicle. I'll surely be catching up on what I've missed through this forum. Thanks for taking the time to film and post your impressive project. I'm a Pennsy/NYC modeler myself, which of course adds an intrinsic appeal to it for me.
I too shared the hobby with my dad, starting back in the mid 70's. I ended up marrying and raising children and dad passed away in '98. The collection we built has been in boxes nearly three decades, but the passion of the proverbial dream layout has never waned.
I'm now starting over for the second time and just bought a small home. I've spent the past two weeks designing to fit the space and the majority of the living area (a hallway and two rooms) has the full scale design on the floor. Benchwork is about to begin.
It's been a delight reimmersing myself in the hobby, and thanks to YouTube and people like yourself who allow others to ride along, this rebirth is as exciting as the first time around. And my dad's guiding me through it all; his presence is very clear.
You've blessed me with your work. I was moved to write.
Keep stoking. I'll be watching from the siding.
Regards.
-- Drew
I too shared the hobby with my dad, starting back in the mid 70's. I ended up marrying and raising children and dad passed away in '98. The collection we built has been in boxes nearly three decades, but the passion of the proverbial dream layout has never waned.
I'm now starting over for the second time and just bought a small home. I've spent the past two weeks designing to fit the space and the majority of the living area (a hallway and two rooms) has the full scale design on the floor. Benchwork is about to begin.
It's been a delight reimmersing myself in the hobby, and thanks to YouTube and people like yourself who allow others to ride along, this rebirth is as exciting as the first time around. And my dad's guiding me through it all; his presence is very clear.
You've blessed me with your work. I was moved to write.
Keep stoking. I'll be watching from the siding.
Regards.
-- Drew
Ron and Dad --
Had to follow up with another post.
It's taken me the weekend but I've pored through all 34 pages of posts, pics and links. What a journey.
Dare I say epic?
I don't get caught up in much online, but this is too cool. I'm glad you never tired of it and have seen it through thus far. You've got me considering a similar online chronicle (though probably scaled down in content) since I'm still in the infancy stage. It's easy [now] to begin.
I laughed out loud when I read of Nagengast Hardware. Though now a Florida transplant I'm a Queens boy born and bred. They've been around since I was a kid. My dad first took me there. More hardware than hobby in the early days but they grew in their selection some. Haven't been there in a ton of years. You've made me want to visit when I take a trip in June (it's our class' combined 50th birthday...yikes!). Kind of odd to hear they're online, but why not? And good for them. $2.40 was actually the best price I'd seen anywhere online for flex, so that's good to know.
Unfortunately I'm tied to code 100 still. I've got 50 Shinohara switches dad bought that I wouldn't want to have to purchase. (I've used 42 in the design.) The 90 pieces of flex I'll need are enough. (We're mostly all cheap hobbyists -- especially now.)
But prototyical appearance aside, that weight was around forever and was good enough for everyone in the late 70's. I'm old school and proud of it, though I do wish I was starting off with DCC. Unfortunately that'll have to wait. And I've got way too many engines to even think about outfitting very many of them. But it'll be a great addition one day.
One last thing. Seeing all that multi track mainline of yours caused me to rethink a section of mine. I decided to turn it double track. It was a "why didn't I do that to begin with?" moment.
Thanks.
In fact, thank you for any number of things I've seen in your series that have helped in one way or another, either as a refresher or a 'gee, that's a good way to do that' kind of thing.
I'm no spring chicken modeler, but for me one of the greatest things about the world's greatest hobby is the seemingly endless ways there are to achieve basically the same result: reliable running track and maximum scenic realism. I've always enjoyed seeing -- and learning from -- how others get there.
And as you enter the latter stages of development it's clear that your vision and planning have served your empire well. My hope is that my own sizeable dream line runs a parallel track to yours.
In admiration,
-- Spotster and Drew
Had to follow up with another post.
It's taken me the weekend but I've pored through all 34 pages of posts, pics and links. What a journey.
Dare I say epic?
I don't get caught up in much online, but this is too cool. I'm glad you never tired of it and have seen it through thus far. You've got me considering a similar online chronicle (though probably scaled down in content) since I'm still in the infancy stage. It's easy [now] to begin.
I laughed out loud when I read of Nagengast Hardware. Though now a Florida transplant I'm a Queens boy born and bred. They've been around since I was a kid. My dad first took me there. More hardware than hobby in the early days but they grew in their selection some. Haven't been there in a ton of years. You've made me want to visit when I take a trip in June (it's our class' combined 50th birthday...yikes!). Kind of odd to hear they're online, but why not? And good for them. $2.40 was actually the best price I'd seen anywhere online for flex, so that's good to know.
Unfortunately I'm tied to code 100 still. I've got 50 Shinohara switches dad bought that I wouldn't want to have to purchase. (I've used 42 in the design.) The 90 pieces of flex I'll need are enough. (We're mostly all cheap hobbyists -- especially now.)
But prototyical appearance aside, that weight was around forever and was good enough for everyone in the late 70's. I'm old school and proud of it, though I do wish I was starting off with DCC. Unfortunately that'll have to wait. And I've got way too many engines to even think about outfitting very many of them. But it'll be a great addition one day.
One last thing. Seeing all that multi track mainline of yours caused me to rethink a section of mine. I decided to turn it double track. It was a "why didn't I do that to begin with?" moment.
Thanks.
In fact, thank you for any number of things I've seen in your series that have helped in one way or another, either as a refresher or a 'gee, that's a good way to do that' kind of thing.
I'm no spring chicken modeler, but for me one of the greatest things about the world's greatest hobby is the seemingly endless ways there are to achieve basically the same result: reliable running track and maximum scenic realism. I've always enjoyed seeing -- and learning from -- how others get there.
And as you enter the latter stages of development it's clear that your vision and planning have served your empire well. My hope is that my own sizeable dream line runs a parallel track to yours.
In admiration,
-- Spotster
and DrewRon:
Happy Holidays to you and your family! I stumbled across your saga while browsing around on YouTube and now I'm hooked - your thread here has become a part of my regular reading.
I built all kinds of models when I was a child, but on my best day I was just an average builder. I do know enough about modeling to appreciate the skills involved in what you and your dad are doing and it is truly amazing! Like lots of others, I anxiously await the next installment.
Your layout also brings back lots of memories. I was born and raised in South Jersey (Burllington) and in the '60s I went to undergraduate school at Drexel in Phila. For several years I took the PRR commuter train between Bristol, PA and 30th St. station. 30th St. is truly a fascinating place and I can't wait to see your model with the interior. Sometimes there would be some time to kill between my last class and the next train and, instead of going to the library and doing something useful, I would head over to the station to look around and people watch. When you detail the interior, maybe you could include a geeky Drexel student.
Keep up the great work!
Bruce Troxell
Happy Holidays to you and your family! I stumbled across your saga while browsing around on YouTube and now I'm hooked - your thread here has become a part of my regular reading.
I built all kinds of models when I was a child, but on my best day I was just an average builder. I do know enough about modeling to appreciate the skills involved in what you and your dad are doing and it is truly amazing! Like lots of others, I anxiously await the next installment.
Your layout also brings back lots of memories. I was born and raised in South Jersey (Burllington) and in the '60s I went to undergraduate school at Drexel in Phila. For several years I took the PRR commuter train between Bristol, PA and 30th St. station. 30th St. is truly a fascinating place and I can't wait to see your model with the interior. Sometimes there would be some time to kill between my last class and the next train and, instead of going to the library and doing something useful, I would head over to the station to look around and people watch. When you detail the interior, maybe you could include a geeky Drexel student.
Keep up the great work!
Bruce Troxell
Let there be green...and the green was good.
I made it down to the layout last week and got some fun things done.
I was going to sleep next to my wife and the layout (literally) last trip I was down. I was telling her how I was going to put up skirting around the layout and how it will really dress things up a lot. Hide all the "Yucky" stuff under the layout. Mentioned about tacking fabric up underneath to hide it. She said,"You could get your Mom to pleat the fabric to make it look better. She would love to have a part in this layout". I thought that was a great idea. So the next day at my Mom's I brought it up to her. She used to work in one of the Casinos in Atlantic City and said she used catering skirts around the banquet tables all the time. And that I should check into those.
Well, with the 1st Google search I found commercial skirting made of heavy cotton. For a 13ft run it would have cost me $170 minus the shipping! I almost had a heart attack in the computer chair. I needed almost 50ft! So my searches lead me to Ebay of course, and with a fresh $100 in ebay gift cards from Christmas...My search continued. I found a few sellers with synthetic skirts in just the right color for $2 per foot , That would only come to $117 with the shipping! Needless to say... I don't have those Ebay gift cards anymore.LOL. I bought them that night. A week later they were in my hands.
They were nicer then I expected. They are pleated and have the Velcro backing on them already (the loop side). My Dad had some leftover Velcro hook left from an old job. It was just enough, and I mean JUST. After we were done there was literally 6" left.
The color is perfect Pennsy Tuscan Red. It goes great with the green fascia we painted.
Here's some before and after shots.
This shot is with the 1st skirt installed only. You can see the major difference it makes to the overall appearance.
Finito,Completo!
I LOVE how this project turned out, and at a reasonable price.
There's more pix and vids to come... More scenery. Yippee!
I made it down to the layout last week and got some fun things done.
I was going to sleep next to my wife and the layout (literally) last trip I was down. I was telling her how I was going to put up skirting around the layout and how it will really dress things up a lot. Hide all the "Yucky" stuff under the layout. Mentioned about tacking fabric up underneath to hide it. She said,"You could get your Mom to pleat the fabric to make it look better. She would love to have a part in this layout". I thought that was a great idea. So the next day at my Mom's I brought it up to her. She used to work in one of the Casinos in Atlantic City and said she used catering skirts around the banquet tables all the time. And that I should check into those.
Well, with the 1st Google search I found commercial skirting made of heavy cotton. For a 13ft run it would have cost me $170 minus the shipping!
I almost had a heart attack in the computer chair. I needed almost 50ft! So my searches lead me to Ebay of course, and with a fresh $100 in ebay gift cards from Christmas...My search continued. I found a few sellers with synthetic skirts in just the right color for $2 per foot , That would only come to $117 with the shipping! Needless to say... I don't have those Ebay gift cards anymore.LOL. I bought them that night. A week later they were in my hands.They were nicer then I expected. They are pleated and have the Velcro backing on them already (the loop side). My Dad had some leftover Velcro hook left from an old job. It was just enough, and I mean JUST. After we were done there was literally 6" left.
The color is perfect Pennsy Tuscan Red. It goes great with the green fascia we painted.
Here's some before and after shots.
This shot is with the 1st skirt installed only. You can see the major difference it makes to the overall appearance.
Finito,Completo!
I LOVE how this project turned out, and at a reasonable price.
There's more pix and vids to come... More scenery. Yippee!
