Laidoffsick
3 Railer
Hey Ron, when you painted your backdrop skies, did you use a flat or semi-gloss type of paint???
Starting the new layout!
- Thread starter Myowngod
- Start date
I used flat paint for the whole backdrop.
After a long hiatus from the construction of this bridge, I have made some good progress over the last week.
I put on the last details and trim on the bridge. I mainly used Rix Products highway divider. You can see the trim under the mini arched section at the top of the towers. Also there is a small keystone like detail that is in between each of the smaller arches.
The next picture you can see the trim on the right tower, but not yet installed on the left tower.
Once I finished all the trim, I FINALLY PAINTED THE BASE COLOR!!!
The color I used is Polly Scale Concrete.
Once the paint had dried, I turned my attention to weathering the bridge. I used a few different techniques; India ink washes, dry-brushing, and chalks. The paint colors are Polly Scale Aged Concrete and Aged White. These colors are used to create the spalling of the concrete and leaching colors from the bridge. The chalks were mainly black, dark brown, dark brownish orange. I got most of my inspiration from photos of the bridge I found on the internet.
I'll get some quick videos of the progress up on Youtube over the next day.
Thanks for checking it out.
I put on the last details and trim on the bridge. I mainly used Rix Products highway divider. You can see the trim under the mini arched section at the top of the towers. Also there is a small keystone like detail that is in between each of the smaller arches.
The next picture you can see the trim on the right tower, but not yet installed on the left tower.
Once I finished all the trim, I FINALLY PAINTED THE BASE COLOR!!!
The color I used is Polly Scale Concrete.
Once the paint had dried, I turned my attention to weathering the bridge. I used a few different techniques; India ink washes, dry-brushing, and chalks. The paint colors are Polly Scale Aged Concrete and Aged White. These colors are used to create the spalling of the concrete and leaching colors from the bridge. The chalks were mainly black, dark brown, dark brownish orange. I got most of my inspiration from photos of the bridge I found on the internet.
I'll get some quick videos of the progress up on Youtube over the next day.
Thanks for checking it out.
Here's the video I made. It covers the bridge project from start to finish... except for the install. That will be in a later video.
Greenlane Bridge Project Video
Now onto the Highline steel girder bridge project. Followed by the Highline stone arched bridge section. I "Promised" my Dad I would have all the bridges for the branch line complete by the next time I come down. He's really itching to get the branch line up and running.
Greenlane Bridge Project Video
Now onto the Highline steel girder bridge project. Followed by the Highline stone arched bridge section. I "Promised" my Dad I would have all the bridges for the branch line complete by the next time I come down. He's really itching to get the branch line up and running.
4Starcstms
Member
Youve done a great job, and your kitbashed Hotel project looked like it'll be pretty neat too.
A+++
A+++
Thanks for the compliments.
I hope this link works. If not the layout file is on the Xtrkcad file list, about 3/4 of the way down the page. Titled "PRR Schuylkill Div revised branch access"
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/cH9bS-...PRR Schuylkill Div revised branch access.xtc
To everyone, I'll be heading down to the layout in about a week. NEW pix and videos to come!
Till next time... (Hopefully soon!)
After Posting a few quick pix on WPF, I finally have time to sit down and do an update from my trip down Jan 29-30.
My Dad and I got a lot of projects done. Most important we drove "THE GOLDEN SPIKE!". But first I turned my efforts to the unfinished roundhouse. This is a picture of the first day we installed the table and roundhouse
After initially installing the roundhouse building back in July 2007, I really wanted to complete the structure. I only had the outside walls and center timbers in place. This is a Walthers Modern Roundhouse with an add-on kit, for a total of 6 stalls. I always had the back walls built, but never finished painting the clerestory windows, front stall doors, and roof panels. The first thing I did when I got to the layout was to airbrush the roof panels a Floquil Grimy Black. While that was drying, I pulled up the 2 halves of the roundhouse stalls and Roto-zipped out the cork and plywood to fit the inspection pit parts in each stall. Once I was happy with the position and depth of the dug out bench work, I glued the pits to the bottom of the floors. I started to glue the back wall sections to the main roundhouse structure. They went together rather nicely. I was worried how they would line up with all of the angles and radii joining up. But no problems. In the second shot below you can see one smoke chimney missing. I was looking all over my bags and toolbox to find it... to no avail. When I got home it was hiding under the instructions for the refinery towers I started building. Ugh!
I install them next time.
Another quick shot of grimy black on the roof and onto the clerestory window sections. Now they were a little bit more tricky to align the curve too. This is the only shot of the roof I got. (forgot to shoot more of the roof progress)
The I popped in the 12 doors in the front of the stalls and glued the frames around them. This really started to finish off the whole structure.
After doing a little shaving off of some of the roof panels to make them align better the roundhouse was complete.
The only thing left to do is hook up the electrical for the lighting. I have a few outside fixtures, and also strung light down each side of the bays. I may eventually add in some more interior detail, but I'm very happy how this building turned out. I've said it before...They eat up a lot of real estate, but turntables and roundhouse are worth it!
My Dad and I got a lot of projects done. Most important we drove "THE GOLDEN SPIKE!". But first I turned my efforts to the unfinished roundhouse. This is a picture of the first day we installed the table and roundhouse
After initially installing the roundhouse building back in July 2007, I really wanted to complete the structure. I only had the outside walls and center timbers in place. This is a Walthers Modern Roundhouse with an add-on kit, for a total of 6 stalls. I always had the back walls built, but never finished painting the clerestory windows, front stall doors, and roof panels. The first thing I did when I got to the layout was to airbrush the roof panels a Floquil Grimy Black. While that was drying, I pulled up the 2 halves of the roundhouse stalls and Roto-zipped out the cork and plywood to fit the inspection pit parts in each stall. Once I was happy with the position and depth of the dug out bench work, I glued the pits to the bottom of the floors. I started to glue the back wall sections to the main roundhouse structure. They went together rather nicely. I was worried how they would line up with all of the angles and radii joining up. But no problems. In the second shot below you can see one smoke chimney missing. I was looking all over my bags and toolbox to find it... to no avail. When I got home it was hiding under the instructions for the refinery towers I started building. Ugh!
I install them next time.Another quick shot of grimy black on the roof and onto the clerestory window sections. Now they were a little bit more tricky to align the curve too. This is the only shot of the roof I got. (forgot to shoot more of the roof progress
)The I popped in the 12 doors in the front of the stalls and glued the frames around them. This really started to finish off the whole structure.
After doing a little shaving off of some of the roof panels to make them align better the roundhouse was complete.
The only thing left to do is hook up the electrical for the lighting. I have a few outside fixtures, and also strung light down each side of the bays. I may eventually add in some more interior detail, but I'm very happy how this building turned out.
I've said it before...They eat up a lot of real estate, but turntables and roundhouse are worth it!
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The next step was to finally bridge the 2 gaps in the branch line. This included the High Line viaduct and the Greenlane bridge.
The Greenlane bridge was almost complete scratch built. You can see a VIDEO of the build. There is only one track going across this span. Just after the bridge, the track splits into a passing siding where a small station will be located. This area is the highest point on the layout. The town is going to be called Manayunk. A town found just west of Philadelphia, up the Schuylkill river.
Once the track passes the station area it feeds a spur to a team track and a manufacturing plant. Just passed that point the branch line ducks behind the center peninsula backdrop and emerges on the other side of the layout. At this point it splits into a double track and crosses over the High Line viaduct. The prototype of this bridge is found just west of 30th St Station in Philly. The viaduct is made up of a variety of different style bridges. I used a double track Walthers Warren truss, a Micro Engineering 150ft. double city viaduct, a set of Walthers plate girders, and a set of 4 N-scale stone arch tunnel portals that were spliced together to form a long arched span. All of these styles can be found on the High Line.
This is the viaduct before I started working on it this trip. The city viaduct section to the left is not installed, just sitting there.
The pier to the left is a Chooch item and the double sided pier in the middle is a handmade one my Dad and I made from some scrap engineered lumber and a 1x1 board. Once it was painted up it looked fine.
This is me actually working on gluing sown the track to the warren truss bridge.
This is the Walthers plate girder kit.
An overall view of the High Line Viaduct.
And overhead shot. The 3 track mainline that you see in the top of the picture will be hidden behind a large city scape. This is the area that the Reading Terminal building will be located.
Once the track was secured to the viaduct stretch, all we had to do was fill in the gap from there to the left to meet up with the rest of the branch line that was making it's way up from the left area of the layout. Just to the left of the stone arched section of the viaduct is where the Golden Spike is located... Thank God!
The Greenlane bridge was almost complete scratch built. You can see a VIDEO of the build. There is only one track going across this span. Just after the bridge, the track splits into a passing siding where a small station will be located. This area is the highest point on the layout. The town is going to be called Manayunk. A town found just west of Philadelphia, up the Schuylkill river.
Once the track passes the station area it feeds a spur to a team track and a manufacturing plant. Just passed that point the branch line ducks behind the center peninsula backdrop and emerges on the other side of the layout. At this point it splits into a double track and crosses over the High Line viaduct. The prototype of this bridge is found just west of 30th St Station in Philly. The viaduct is made up of a variety of different style bridges. I used a double track Walthers Warren truss, a Micro Engineering 150ft. double city viaduct, a set of Walthers plate girders, and a set of 4 N-scale stone arch tunnel portals that were spliced together to form a long arched span. All of these styles can be found on the High Line.
This is the viaduct before I started working on it this trip. The city viaduct section to the left is not installed, just sitting there.
The pier to the left is a Chooch item and the double sided pier in the middle is a handmade one my Dad and I made from some scrap engineered lumber and a 1x1 board. Once it was painted up it looked fine.
This is me actually working on gluing sown the track to the warren truss bridge.
This is the Walthers plate girder kit.
An overall view of the High Line Viaduct.
And overhead shot. The 3 track mainline that you see in the top of the picture will be hidden behind a large city scape. This is the area that the Reading Terminal building will be located.
Once the track was secured to the viaduct stretch, all we had to do was fill in the gap from there to the left to meet up with the rest of the branch line that was making it's way up from the left area of the layout. Just to the left of the stone arched section of the viaduct is where the Golden Spike is located... Thank God!
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Finally an update!
It has been a LOONNNGGGG time since my last major update. I finally had a chance to get down the Pennsylvania Railroad-Schuylkill Division.
The major project that I wanted to work on this trip was beginning the plastering of the rural mountain side of the layout.This area will be the Manayunk region, just west of Philadelphia. It's along the Schuylkill river.
The first thing I had to do to prep for the mess task of plastering was to cover up the tracks with 1-1/2" or 2" blue masking tape, also know as painters tape. Plaster has a way of finding it's way into every area you don't want it. So COVER UP EVERYTHING!. Invest in a few plastic drop clothes. You can use them on the floor as well as cut small pieces out to cover any structures near the plaster blast zone.
I have a bunch of picture to follow as well as progress videos and a couple How-to videos on plastering mountain scenery.
I hope any of this will be useful to someone.
It has been a LOONNNGGGG time since my last major update. I finally had a chance to get down the Pennsylvania Railroad-Schuylkill Division.
The major project that I wanted to work on this trip was beginning the plastering of the rural mountain side of the layout.This area will be the Manayunk region, just west of Philadelphia. It's along the Schuylkill river.
The first thing I had to do to prep for the mess task of plastering was to cover up the tracks with 1-1/2" or 2" blue masking tape, also know as painters tape. Plaster has a way of finding it's way into every area you don't want it. So COVER UP EVERYTHING!.
Invest in a few plastic drop clothes. You can use them on the floor as well as cut small pieces out to cover any structures near the plaster blast zone.I have a bunch of picture to follow as well as progress videos and a couple How-to videos on plastering mountain scenery.
I hope any of this will be useful to someone.
Let me take a step back. Before I get to deep into this trips projects, let me show you a video I made of the layout prior to starting anything. The last couple trips I was down there I forgot to bring my camera, so I didn't get a chance to take any videos of past projects. They include finishing the roundhouse, and building the High Line viaduct.
I also show the refinery structures I completed. They are a Walther's kit and a Vollmer kit. I still have a couple other kits to build for use in this scene. These are just pix of them, this is not where they belong on the layout.
Here is the pre/post progress VIDEO.
I also show the refinery structures I completed. They are a Walther's kit and a Vollmer kit. I still have a couple other kits to build for use in this scene. These are just pix of them, this is not where they belong on the layout.
Here is the pre/post progress VIDEO.
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I'm getting to my favorite part of the hobby... The SCENERY.
A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away... this is what the area looked like prior to me plastering it.
Now with just an afternoon of plaster dust flying around and paper towels slopping all over, this is the result.
There was some prep work involved before I could start the actual plastering.
This is a VIDEO of that process.
I used a bunch of paper towels. I like to use the 1/2 sheet size. I find them easier to handle while plastering. I recommend using Plaster Of Paris (POP) to do the hard shell on the layout, although on this particular time I tried plaster wall patch. I didn't get the desired results as in the past when using POP. The shell is harder using POP. And dries a lot faster. Oh-well lesson learned. I will follow up with some Structolite plaster, this is similar to Sculptamold. I will fill in all the divots and holes with this stuff. I also need 1-1/2" and 2" blue masking tape/painters tape to cover up all the tracks. Get yourself some lite plastic drop clothes to cover the floors and any structure you want to protect. After snagging some water and a couple plastic buckets... let's get to plastering scenery!
Here's a VIDEO of the plastering process.
After a few hours of plastering here is the result.
I hope some of this info is helpful to you.
Thanks for checking it out.
A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away... this is what the area looked like prior to me plastering it.
Now with just an afternoon of plaster dust flying around and paper towels slopping all over, this is the result.
There was some prep work involved before I could start the actual plastering.
This is a VIDEO of that process.
I used a bunch of paper towels. I like to use the 1/2 sheet size. I find them easier to handle while plastering. I recommend using Plaster Of Paris (POP) to do the hard shell on the layout, although on this particular time I tried plaster wall patch. I didn't get the desired results as in the past when using POP. The shell is harder using POP. And dries a lot faster. Oh-well lesson learned. I will follow up with some Structolite plaster, this is similar to Sculptamold. I will fill in all the divots and holes with this stuff. I also need 1-1/2" and 2" blue masking tape/painters tape to cover up all the tracks. Get yourself some lite plastic drop clothes to cover the floors and any structure you want to protect. After snagging some water and a couple plastic buckets... let's get to plastering scenery!
Here's a VIDEO of the plastering process.
After a few hours of plastering here is the result.
I hope some of this info is helpful to you.
Thanks for checking it out.
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Thanks NYSW, We're working hard on this layout. I'm proud how it's turning out so far.
Here is a quick video of how my Dad made the letters that are used on the PRR name plate. It is mounted to the fascia just as you walk down the hall, seeing the layout for the first time. I always envisioned some form of plaque here.
VIDEO
Here is a quick video of how my Dad made the letters that are used on the PRR name plate. It is mounted to the fascia just as you walk down the hall, seeing the layout for the first time. I always envisioned some form of plaque here.
VIDEO
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ho/ttothemoss
Member
I love your layout I keep my eyes open for any update's you do first seen your layout on you tube and love it keep it up........
I've been using the freeware program "XtrkCAD". It's a great program for being free. Here's a link to the Yahoo group that supports the program. You can find the download there too.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XTrkCad/
If you need any help just ask me or join the Yahoo group and post away. The people there are very helpful.
Good luck with your new layout, and have FUN!
