Some noob Benchwork questions


F

fiend540

Member
Ok, I am ready to build my layout I designed, found here, and I need some help to make sure I don't make a dumb mistake :) The keys to my layout are being as light and portable as I will be moving a bunch over the next few years. I have figured out how I am going to make the legs/support setup but I have 2 questions.

My first question is should I put a base of plywood down first, and then a piece of 1" foam or do you think just using a piece of 2" foam will be enough? The rest of my benchwork will be 1 by 4s and I am just wondering if I will need the plywood to maintain shape and rigidity. I also need to know what the minimus thickness I should use, remember I don't want this thing to weight a ton but I need it to be durable:p

My second question is what is the hardware I should use for the bottom of my legs so I can adjust to maintain a level surface. Are you guys using tee nuts?

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First question: You should definitely have plywood, assuming you don't feel like having your layout cave in on you.
Any thickness beyond about a quarter of an inch should be fine.

Second question: I have absolutely no idea. :D
 
I used T-nuts as in your photo but I chose the ones that had the nail or screw holes in the bottom. The ones in your photo can jump out of the leg causing a lot of problems.

NYC_George
 
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If you frame 2" foam with 2x4's, it should be rigid enough for a small layout like yours. You can use plywood if it makes you feel more confident but, assuming you're not planning to sit on the layout, framed foam with plywood gussets to connect the legs should be fine.

Tee nuts will work for leg levelers but there are better products. I personally like and use pool table leg levelers like the ones at http://www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?ITEM_ID=5939&DEPARTMENT_ID=177. They are not expensive and easier to adjust than tee nuts.
 
UP2CSX said:
If you frame 2" foam with 2x4's, it should be rigid enough for a small layout like yours. You can use plywood if it makes you feel more confident but, assuming you're not planning to sit on the layout, framed foam with plywood gussets to connect the legs should be fine.

Tee nuts will work for leg levelers but there are better products. I personally like and use pool table leg levelers like the ones at http://www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?ITEM_ID=5939&DEPARTMENT_ID=177. They are not expensive and easier to adjust than tee nuts.
Click to expand...

I am trying to avoid using 2x4s as they are so much more bulky and heavy. So I guess I will go with 1x4 framing, with say a 3/8 piece of plywood fixed to the top and then a piece of 1" foam over the top of that. Seems like it would be a good compromise of weight vs strength right?

Jim thanks for cluing me in on those leg levelers, they looks really nice and the price is good, I will have to check one of my local billiard stores.
 
I have had zero sagging with 2-inch foam (12-in wide to 30-inch wide) supported on 18-inch centers by metal shelf brackets with no framing. I see no need for plywood underlayment except perhaps for splice plates between sections. Mind you, you can't climb on it, but would you want to with your design?

I admit that I do not have heavy plaster / rock scenery on the 2-inch foam. But you could laminate a couple layers of foam together for more rigidity. You could also glue the foam onto hollow core doors if you wanted.

Proviso: I aim for light, portable, fast, and cheap. I've done the plywood, Homosote, and L-girder thing and I will never go back to that.
 
Even a 1x2 frame with some 1x2's every 18" as supports will make a very rigid layout with 2" of foam. As I said, I really don't see the need for plywood for such a small alyout, especially if you expect to move it. Even if you decide to go with a plywood top, use 2" of foam. You'll short change yourself using 1" foam when you do below grade features like creeks, ditches, and ponds. Don't ask me how I know this. :)
 
I wanted to use table feet, but ended up with carriage bolts with the t-nuts. I got 3" carriage bolts, and in some places, needed as much adjustment as I could get to level the benchwork. Since the benchwork sits on laminate flooring, I added 1x4s cut in 4" squares, to put under the feet to spread out the weight a little, since a carriage bolt has a fairly small head.

2" foam is plenty, which translates roughly into 14.5' in the HO world. 4" is great if you want to do a below grade crossing (like a highway underpass) while keeping the track level and with 0% grade.
 
i'm all about sturdiness. 2x4 frame and plywood. with 2" foam on top.

foam maybe rigid enough without plywood but one stronger tug or lean on it and you have a chasm on your layout. i think it should be able to withstand at least some abuse. fastening stuff underneath directly to foam doesn't sound very good idea to me either.
 
tankist said:
i'm all about sturdiness. 2x4 frame and plywood. with 2" foam on top.

foam maybe rigid enough without plywood but one stronger tug or lean on it and you have a chasm on your layout. i think it should be able to withstand at least some abuse. fastening stuff underneath directly to foam doesn't sound very good idea to me either.
Click to expand...

+1.

Plus, if you're moving it, and accidentally bang it against something, that plywood will be quite useful.
 
I use ground throws for my turnouts and fasten wires with either a glob of caulk or velcro loops to the bottom of the foam. It can get dinged without fascia though.
 
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