RoadRailer Models
- Thread starter sushob
- Start date
J
JK47
Guest
where did you find this RoadRailer models?
what scale are they in?
i posted on the Class 1 thread to but i figure here is better. all the pictures i had i've deleted because they are repetative.
what scale are they in?
i posted on the Class 1 thread to but i figure here is better. all the pictures i had i've deleted because they are repetative.
These are Bowser HO models. (Sorry I forgot to mention the scale, but I did remember to put it in the HO section). We've been cleaning out the basement and these (along with 16 N-5c cabeese and a Penn State box car) have migrated up to my bedroom. The N-5c's were the first car my dad made the molds for, and he had hoped to collect one of each car he made from there on out, but that just became too much (having 40 paint schemes of the same car just isn't practical for someone who doesn't even have room for a layout).
Link to the Bowser Roadrailers- http://www.bowser-trains.com/horoadrail.php
Update, here's the company that makes the N scale ones. They come in a 10 pack, retail is about $150, they can be found for less online or at shows.
http://www.deluxeinnovations.com/
http://www.deluxeinnovations.com/
RCH
Been Nothin' Since Frisco
I can't point you to any prototype photos, but I've got a couple photos on my website of my models. I have three dozen of the Bowser models, three different schemes in 12 numbers each, and they are mixed into two trains.
One thing I'd highly recommend is the detail kit for the Coupler Mate made by Plano. It really sets the Coupler Mate apart as a model in its own right. Don't forget the drop grabs on the Coupler Mate, too.
Adding metal wheels makes a major difference in the way these models perform, so don't forget them.
One of the most important "details" I've added to my Roadrailer models is painting the highway wheels. There's really nothing to it. I spray the entire wheel white with the airbrush and I don't worry about overspray on the tire. Then I paint the tire with a brown/gray/black mixture while twisting the half axle/tire assembly in my hand using a brush. Finally, I use a fine brush to drop a slightly thinned black into each wheel hand hole. That's really the key to getting the wheels to look good. See here: http://www.geocities.com/norfolksouthernhinose/TCSwheel1.jpg
Weathering on these trailers is heavy for highway trailers, which are clean by comparison to freight cars, but that still means "heavy" is a freight car's "moderate" weathering. The spray from the railroad wheels leaves two feathered vertical streaks in line with the railroad wheel treads at the front and rear of the trailers. I use burnt umber for this kind of road grime and I simply drybrush it on. Then there's the tractor exhaust stains to paint on the leading corner(s) of the trailers, but that should be random since no two tractors are alike. Don't forget the "bow wave" effect on some trailers, either, since it helps show that they do spend some time on the roads and not just on the rails.
You'll also need to paint the roofs of these trailers silver. I lined all mine up and positioned them so close together they touched. Then I sprayed silver from the airbrush. This way I didn't have to mask any of them and it turned out great. I sanded each roof with 1000 grit paper before painting to give it some tooth since Bowser's paint came out so glossy I was afraid I might have issues with it adhering.
If you're not crazy yet, go ahead and paint the tail/running lamps with amber or red as appropriate. Then add air lines from the trailer body to the tandems. Then put some aged rust around the bumper and trailer door....
These are fine models. The real problem with them is how addictive they are.
Here's the page on my site I have dedicated to these trains:
http://www.geocities.com/norfolksouthernhinose/RCsCustomDiesels8.html
One thing I'd highly recommend is the detail kit for the Coupler Mate made by Plano. It really sets the Coupler Mate apart as a model in its own right. Don't forget the drop grabs on the Coupler Mate, too.
Adding metal wheels makes a major difference in the way these models perform, so don't forget them.
One of the most important "details" I've added to my Roadrailer models is painting the highway wheels. There's really nothing to it. I spray the entire wheel white with the airbrush and I don't worry about overspray on the tire. Then I paint the tire with a brown/gray/black mixture while twisting the half axle/tire assembly in my hand using a brush. Finally, I use a fine brush to drop a slightly thinned black into each wheel hand hole. That's really the key to getting the wheels to look good. See here: http://www.geocities.com/norfolksouthernhinose/TCSwheel1.jpg
Weathering on these trailers is heavy for highway trailers, which are clean by comparison to freight cars, but that still means "heavy" is a freight car's "moderate" weathering. The spray from the railroad wheels leaves two feathered vertical streaks in line with the railroad wheel treads at the front and rear of the trailers. I use burnt umber for this kind of road grime and I simply drybrush it on. Then there's the tractor exhaust stains to paint on the leading corner(s) of the trailers, but that should be random since no two tractors are alike. Don't forget the "bow wave" effect on some trailers, either, since it helps show that they do spend some time on the roads and not just on the rails.
You'll also need to paint the roofs of these trailers silver. I lined all mine up and positioned them so close together they touched. Then I sprayed silver from the airbrush. This way I didn't have to mask any of them and it turned out great. I sanded each roof with 1000 grit paper before painting to give it some tooth since Bowser's paint came out so glossy I was afraid I might have issues with it adhering.
If you're not crazy yet, go ahead and paint the tail/running lamps with amber or red as appropriate. Then add air lines from the trailer body to the tandems. Then put some aged rust around the bumper and trailer door....
These are fine models. The real problem with them is how addictive they are.
Here's the page on my site I have dedicated to these trains:
http://www.geocities.com/norfolksouthernhinose/RCsCustomDiesels8.html
HaggisKennedy
Coal Shoveler
I have a handful of TCS, but none are assembled yet. I have one done, but it's a Schneider, I think.
I have a few prototype photos lying around somewhere....
Kennedy
I have a few prototype photos lying around somewhere....
Kennedy
RCH
Been Nothin' Since Frisco
I don't know what the problem is with my site. I get a 404 error, so I guess it's down. But, I've been *slowly* migrating the meaningful content to my ISP-provided webspace site, anyway. The problem with geocities is that when your site sees too many hits at a time, geocities shuts down access to it. Images cannot be directly linked, either (i.e., I can't put [ img ] brackets around the URL and get it to show up here), which is a big problem for a showoff like me.
So, my solution is to rebuild the pages from scratch in Mozilla Composer. Also, since SBC only gives me 10MB of space, I'm using my pbase.com account to host the site images, that way I don't hog up my SBC space with images when it is better used for HTML files. It is a very slow process, especially since I work on a computer all day and the last thing I want to do is come home to do more computer work. But, unlike my job, I really enjoy doing it, so occasionally I'll suffer through the CTS and knock a page or two out.
However, since I probably won't be getting to any of this NS/Triple Crown stuff for quite awhile, I can't offer a replacement page. But, if you can tell me what you'd like to see, I should be able to get it posted, sans description of course. Pictures speak louder than words, though, don't they?
So, my solution is to rebuild the pages from scratch in Mozilla Composer. Also, since SBC only gives me 10MB of space, I'm using my pbase.com account to host the site images, that way I don't hog up my SBC space with images when it is better used for HTML files. It is a very slow process, especially since I work on a computer all day and the last thing I want to do is come home to do more computer work. But, unlike my job, I really enjoy doing it, so occasionally I'll suffer through the CTS and knock a page or two out.
However, since I probably won't be getting to any of this NS/Triple Crown stuff for quite awhile, I can't offer a replacement page. But, if you can tell me what you'd like to see, I should be able to get it posted, sans description of course. Pictures speak louder than words, though, don't they?
I was looking for the pictures of the wheels you did...they really set the whole thing off. I was trying to figure out if those were the stock Bowser wheels on the Roadrailers, because mine seem to have studs sticking out, where yours seem to have holes going in... 
Either way, the white paint makes a huge difference.
I also recall you doing something with air lines (I think...maybe?)
And lastly, do you have a shot of the Coupler Mate with the Plano detail kit installed? I'm considering purchasing several of them, as they seem to be an outstanding product.
Thanks for your help!
Either way, the white paint makes a huge difference.I also recall you doing something with air lines (I think...maybe?)
And lastly, do you have a shot of the Coupler Mate with the Plano detail kit installed? I'm considering purchasing several of them, as they seem to be an outstanding product.
Thanks for your help!
RCH
Been Nothin' Since Frisco
Hmmm, I think I've just seen the strangest version of geocities.com yet. When I go to that page, all I see is:
"Everything is OK"
I was going to try to link the individual images to you, but it looks like that's something I'll have to do at home.
I never did add air lines, but that shouldn't be too difficult a project. The wheels are just the stock Bowser wheels, and there are little depressions molded into the wheel face for the hand holes. I'm not sure why yours wouldn't be the same way, unless there was some sort of change in production.
And, yes, the Plano kit is an absolutely stunning addition to the Bowser Coupler Mate. Try the Plano site for images.
Edit: Here's the link to the frame on the Plano site showing the Coupler Mate:
http://www.planomodelproducts.com/320.htm
"Everything is OK"
I was going to try to link the individual images to you, but it looks like that's something I'll have to do at home.
I never did add air lines, but that shouldn't be too difficult a project. The wheels are just the stock Bowser wheels, and there are little depressions molded into the wheel face for the hand holes. I'm not sure why yours wouldn't be the same way, unless there was some sort of change in production.
And, yes, the Plano kit is an absolutely stunning addition to the Bowser Coupler Mate. Try the Plano site for images.
Edit: Here's the link to the frame on the Plano site showing the Coupler Mate:
http://www.planomodelproducts.com/320.htm
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RCH
Been Nothin' Since Frisco
Yes, their site and my photos don't do it justice. You really need to see these detail kits in person. I even debated whether or not I should post my own photos on my website originally because they didn't show what I held in my hand. And to think Plano's photos were in part the reason I wanted to have a page about their kit - I thought my photos would turn out better...
RCH
Been Nothin' Since Frisco
Josh,
I don't know if you're "rolling your own" Long Runners or using the Walthers version, but you should expect to have to modify the landing gear on the straddling trailer to be even shorter than the shorter of the two that Bowser supplies in either case. I think you might be able to get away without trimming anything if you're using really broad curves and you're doing one of the half flush deck/half flange deck Long Runners, since the landing gear rides over the flush deck car. But just using the stock Walthers car means you'll have to do some modification. Some of the prototype cars I've seen have the deck widened at the point where the landing gear of the straddling trailer would be. If I knew a number series off the top of my head, I'd post a link to a prototype photo.
I don't know if you're "rolling your own" Long Runners or using the Walthers version, but you should expect to have to modify the landing gear on the straddling trailer to be even shorter than the shorter of the two that Bowser supplies in either case. I think you might be able to get away without trimming anything if you're using really broad curves and you're doing one of the half flush deck/half flange deck Long Runners, since the landing gear rides over the flush deck car. But just using the stock Walthers car means you'll have to do some modification. Some of the prototype cars I've seen have the deck widened at the point where the landing gear of the straddling trailer would be. If I knew a number series off the top of my head, I'd post a link to a prototype photo.
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