Question about flex track and track connectors

[Necrosaro420]

Is flex track a good choice for a layout? Also the little pieces that connect the tracks together (name?) what is the best type/brand of those to use? I plan on using the nickle silver track

 

[Frisco's_Iantha_Branch]

I will make the argument (if there is an argument) that flex track is the way to go. Yes, you will defiantly want nickle silver rail. Here are the brands in that make flex track in HO scale that i can think of off the top of my head: Atlas, Micro Engineering, Peco, and Walther/Shinohara. I use Atlas because it is easy to find, it bends easily, and it comes in both code 100 and code 83. Micro engineering comes in code 100, code 83 (weathered and non weathered), and code 70. I've heard it's hard to bend, but it comes in code 70 for people that model branch lines (like my self, but I ended up with code 100 because of some switches that where given to me). I think the Peco and the Walthers flex track only comes in Code 100, I'd have to check. I think the Walthers track comes in lengths of 39". And those "little pieces" are rail joiners. I recommend using them on both rails. but eventually they Occidise after a few years and you have to use solder to make the electrical connection.
Hope this helps.

 

[Rico]

If you go with code 83 flex like the Walthers joiners with the bolt detail on the sides.
I use flex except for tighter curves where sectional holds its shape better.

 

[bigB]

Practice with a soldering iron. Curves are the hardest part. I compare learning to solder good flextrack curves to getting good at taping drywall--takes a fair amount of practice to get good at and youll definitely know if its not done right.

 

[Secondhandmodeler]

Peco makes code 83 as well as code 100. Though it's more expensive, I like the fact that Peco holds it's curve once you bend it. Makes for much easier track laying.

I'll second the comment on soldering. If you are to use flex track on curves, you will have to solder the tracks together to not get a kink at the ends of the tracks.

 

[tankist]

Nickels silver is the only viable material today.for good joints you will have to solder it. unless it is in complex area or i need insulated join, i don't use joiners - all soldered.

 

[Necrosaro420]

I usually solder stuff everday so that isnt a problem =) But where are you soldering these at? The bottoms?

 

[tankist]

if you punch "soldering flextrack" in the search filed, the thread that comes up right ater yours is this one:

http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15439&highlight=soldering+flextrack

 

[bigB]

Basically you join the rails with joiners, flux the joint, hold a soldering iron so that it touches both rail and joiner, hold solder on joint (dont touch w soldering iron). solder will flow in joint. repeat on inside of joint and on other rail ( both sides).

 

[Necrosaro420]

Ahhh yeah I was checking out that thread after you pointed it out thanks. My question about that though is do you solder the inside/outside of the rail joints, or from the bottom? I assume you just put enough so that the wheels dont make a clacking noise etc

 

[bigB]

Solder the sides of both joints(in 4 places total). Itll flow in the top too but just file it smooth with a jewels file,etc.

 

[P&W]

Ahhh yeah I was checking out that thread after you pointed it out thanks. My question about that though is do you solder the inside/outside of the rail joints, or from the bottom? I assume you just put enough so that the wheels dont make a clacking noise etc

I don't mind some of the clacking, afterall the real ones do it. I don't have a layout now, but, on my 2nd one growing up, I actually staggered some of the joints to get some clacking.

 

[Selector]

Ahhh yeah I was checking out that thread after you pointed it out thanks. My question about that though is do you solder the inside/outside of the rail joints, or from the bottom? I assume you just put enough so that the wheels dont make a clacking noise etc

You don't need, and probably don't want, solder between the webs and the heads of the rails. (The clacking isn't very realistic IMO, but it is innocuous to me...I don't mind it...). When we say to solder the rails, we mean to rube a little flux on the rail ends and slip them into the joiner. Leave about 1/16" if you want a louder click from the wheels, but there is no reason to leave any spacing...shove 'em up tight.

Then, hold the solder wire to the middle of the joiner top, right at the spot where the two rails abut each other, and touch your hot iron tip to the same spot. It should take maybe one full second and you should be able to remove the iron. If it is a small hobby tip, and not so hot, it may take two or three seconds. But the solder wire should quickly appear to feed itself into the space inside the joiner. That is what you want...solder in there binding the rail feet and creating a thick plug of metal that forms a strong bond.

By the way, flextrack doesn't bend hardly at all in the last 1.5" at each end. Soldering will help to encourage those ends to maintain the curvature that the rest of each length maintains. However, you can actually impart a permanent curve to flextrack. It takes some care, but you would have to bend it tightly around a pipe or piece of wood, just enough so that when you let it go free it has retained some permanent curvature. You can also make the rails ends curve a bit, but it is tricker.

The very best way to get your joints to curve nicely is to stagger them. You can place joiners where the fixed (non-sliding) rails have to meet, but slip the sliding rail five or six ties deep into the other rail section, similarly displacing that receiving section's sliding rail. Remove a tie there, or file it down so that the joiner won't creat an upward kink. But that is where you place the soldered joiner. That way, the one sliding rail helps to make the joint conform to the rest of the desired curvature.

-Crandell

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

Rail joiners, no matter who makes them and what they are made of' will start to oxidize over time. In some areas that time is shorter than in others. Here it's only a few months to a little under a year before the humidity causes oxidation (corrosion) between the rail joiners and the rails. For this reason I solder all the rail joiners in a given block. The open gap between the rail blocks allows for any expansion and/or contraction.

 

[Frisco's_Iantha_Branch]

Well, actualy the setup i have is little differnent than most others. I use flex track straight to the plywood, no cork. So what I do is take off a couple ties at the end, put on the railjoiners, and get it in their square. Then I drill a hole and screw down the first end. the just bend it around, cut it and do the same.

 

[tankist]

... The open gap between the rail blocks allows for any expansion and/or contraction.

Jeffey, even with the gap, if you soldered both rails to joiner it is still rigid connection. how is that helps with any expansion contraction?

Well, actualy the setup i have is little differnent than most others. I use flex track straight to the plywood, no cork. So what I do is take off a couple ties at the end, put on the railjoiners, and get it in their square. Then I drill a hole and screw down the first end. the just bend it around, cut it and do the same.

one word - why? could you please explain the advantages of your approach?

 

[Rico]

I don't think Jeff solders the joiners that are between electrical blocks, just within them.

 

[Necrosaro420]

So you should use joiners and then solder the joiners to the track, or no? Getting confused by some of the responces =) Thanks!

 

[tankist]

So you should use joiners and then solder the joiners to the track, or no? Getting confused by some of the responces =) Thanks!

you got several responses as to how people do it. at this point the only thing you should do is evaluate the suggestions , pick the one that makes most sense to you and try it out.

 

[hamltnblue]

Basically you want to solder feeders directly to the track as much as possible. On some areas you might want to solder the joiners. I personally recommend that the more joiners not soldered the better. Also placing them with a little gap now and them could help. I learned the hard way about may of last year when one day I went to the basement and the track has warped a few inches over the track bed in one area. The wood contracted a bit and the joiners were soldered so there was no give to compensate.