post your model RR tips........
- Thread starter Greg from Mi.
- Start date
In my old modelling days, I would heat sprue close to it's melting point, then slowly pull both ends apart, to make "tubing" or "pipes" of whatever diameter I needed, then let it cool.
westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
I buy inexpensive playing cards at the dollar store. These can be used as shims, mixing small amounts of epoxy or setting under the tip of my hot glue gun to catch an errant drip or two.
PaulieT
Model Builder
Clever!
shortwrench
Well-Known Member
Good tip.
However, I am a little more frugal. I use the fake credit cards and laminated advertising materials that come in the mail.
Canalligator
Active Member
I use business cards from the last job I had requiring business cards... ca. 2006. Yes, I had lots of extras.
shortwrench
Well-Known Member
Now that I have gained some experience in adding decoders and repairing HO locos, I have adopted a "standard" procedure to each loco.
I solder a 1/4" copper wire to each track solder pad on the decoder. This makes for a easy access point to power the decoder via
an alligator clip or EZ hook. Since I don't have rollers for the wheels, it's usually cumbersome to feed power to the decoder while the loco is on the bench. Most of my locos with decoder upgrades are gifted locos and is questionable how reliable the continuity between the wheels and
truck pickups are. On some locos I've spent considerable effort re-establishing a good connection between the wheels and pickups.
They are a convenient way to power the decoder as motor, lights, and sound are set up; not having to worry about how good of a connection there is between the wheels and decoder.
I leave them permanently connected. So far, all locos have plenty of clearance between the wires and the loco shell. If there is any concern, a
piece of Kapton or electrical tape over the wires will provide adequate insulation.[
I solder a 1/4" copper wire to each track solder pad on the decoder. This makes for a easy access point to power the decoder via
an alligator clip or EZ hook. Since I don't have rollers for the wheels, it's usually cumbersome to feed power to the decoder while the loco is on the bench. Most of my locos with decoder upgrades are gifted locos and is questionable how reliable the continuity between the wheels and
truck pickups are. On some locos I've spent considerable effort re-establishing a good connection between the wheels and pickups.
They are a convenient way to power the decoder as motor, lights, and sound are set up; not having to worry about how good of a connection there is between the wheels and decoder.
I leave them permanently connected. So far, all locos have plenty of clearance between the wires and the loco shell. If there is any concern, a
piece of Kapton or electrical tape over the wires will provide adequate insulation.[
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westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
This idea would/should work for motor connections. It seems I manage from time to time to have a loco go in reverse instead of forward. While you can adjust CVs to correct this problem, I like to try to keep everything correct from the get-go. And I do not like to do things twice.
Thanks for the tip.
Canalligator
Active Member
When converting a well-used loco to DCC, the first step should be servicing the mechanicals: check/renew lubrication and especially clean the wheels. I find these steps easier to do with a DC supply. It is much harder to do after installing the decoder, because at first it won’t run well enough to keep the wheels turning.
For wheel cleaning, I first scrape the wheels (if needed) with a hobby knife. Then I use the paper towel on track method.
As for lubrication, well, you’ve got it open anyway, might as well. And if they’re as old as my locos, they’re probably due for it.
On Athearn blue box locos, check that the axil bushings are correctly placed in the truck frames. Also make sure the geared axils have not split, they sometimes split with age. If its white rubber motor mounts have dried out, replace them or remount the motor with foam tape.
For wheel cleaning, I first scrape the wheels (if needed) with a hobby knife. Then I use the paper towel on track method.
As for lubrication, well, you’ve got it open anyway, might as well. And if they’re as old as my locos, they’re probably due for it.
On Athearn blue box locos, check that the axil bushings are correctly placed in the truck frames. Also make sure the geared axils have not split, they sometimes split with age. If its white rubber motor mounts have dried out, replace them or remount the motor with foam tape.
