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A helix (as I have discovered) is governed by height, diameter and clearance between layers
I will clean up the "Helix Calculator" I found online (originaly G scale) which I converted to n scale with metric and imperial dimensions and post soon.
Update
Completed to track on Helix 1, bigger job than I thought but very satisfying to get to the bottom.
Will start Helix 2 tommorrow
3 dimensional geometric calculations have never been my strong suit which made me ask a lot of questions and with the help of the calculator to come up with the size of my Helix design.
I am not one for prototypicalism (if that is a word) but it should look right, many people may say this is wrong, well we are individuals.
Helix 1 still requires the guard rail on the inside circumfrence which will be installed once I dont need to constantly but my big hands inside
I fully appreciate any comments/advice so feel free
Fantastic job !!! Keep up the great work and keep those pictures coming . I have a layout in mind that also has two helixs I am loving this !!! Great Job cant wait to see more
This is a great thread, makes me want to get the saw out and build a couple of helixes but i think bunnings has had enough of my hard earned this month
This weekend proved to productive in that I started to lay track on the main level - I even had to pop put and get more track joiners - I was sure I had heaps- anyway I was still able to lay about 25metres of tack and points -about halfway with the track - plus the 20+metres for Helix 2 and the the upper deck
Here are some snaps of this weekends effort
With some track down the layout is staring to take form
Very good so far. You are making quick progress. Everything looks wonderful.
Have you thought of maybe making your corners on the upper level not so sharp? You could cut a peice of wood to fill in each of those corners on the outside edge of layout, sort of like a triangle peice to splice in. I cant think of the correct word for this right now (haven't had my coffee yet)
Your curve on the track would not be as sharp if you did this. You could have nice broad curves...
You could even do this on the lower level, then when you are ready to attach your fascia it will be nice and rounded.
Just a suggestion, no biggie. Im jealous of your 2 helix layout... keep the pictures flowing
Whilst I have a layout drawnup for the top deck this will be the last stage - need some where to put my stuff while I do the bottom deck -
The corner infills will be used if broad corners are required near the edge - maybe a small infill to smooth things out????
I have used infills inside the Helix's for the supports located in the corners
After a week with Flu I have only managed to complete some minor construction issues I have put off, soldering droppers on about a third of the track, Helix 2 finished except for painting and the upper transition.
This week has had me still sutting more power droppers in and still more track, a bit more on Helix 2 and power cabled Helix 1
I have also been able to pickup some good deals on "Ebay" - A collector in NSW is down sizing and I was able to pick up
1 x BALTIMORE & OHIO BLI DCC SOUND BROADWAY LIMITED IMPORTS E8A
1 x ATLAS B30 LOCO CSX B&O Baltimore & Ohio DCC
1 x KATO SD40 LOCOMOTIVE DCC C&O B&O DCC
1 x CON-COR "THE CHESSIE" SIX CAR CARRIAGE SET
I was able to buy an NCE Powercab today from LHS
After all this I was finally able to run a train though Helix 1 - I need to touchup a couple of joints with my pliers (joints on curves!!!!!) but even so 2 trains went up and down with no derailments-
Th Powercab is great, 15 mins from unpack to having a train running -
Note to all - When buying DCC trains through internet have the seller state the long or short address used on the train - will save 5 - 10 mins searching it out on the powercab
Don't know how you soldered the track on the curves, but the procedure I use is to lay the first piece to within 3 or 4 inches of the end. Cut off the rail that is too long. Attach the 2nd piece and solder it while the track is straight. After the joint cools, bend the track to the curve and continue laying. I almost never have a kink this way.
Hopes this helps although it is probably way late!
The joints on the helix which require touch up are the first few - probably from my over eagerness to get started - are still ok to run a train over but not to the standard which I would will want.
These are enough to keep me concentrating, especially when I lay the track on Helix 2 - laying track on a helix is so much harder than flat track - I have seen others lay the track as they buid up the helix but with my design I can only lay track after its built - maybe a different design next time -
Always lessons to be learnt - Old dogs do learn new tricks - Measure twice cut once - Dont cry over spilt milk - Listen to all advise and use what you need