Magnet uncoupler?
- Thread starter Duke94
- Start date
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Do the hoses have something to do with the function of the uncoupler? If so, I might have done something stupid as I sniped a bit off the ends to clear part of a cross over.
. You still may be able to bend them down enough that the magnet will work. Buying a bender tool for the hoses and a coupler gauge will help you keep this area working on your cars.
Also, make sure the magnet is in perfect alignment with the track rails and even distance from the rails on the sides.
Oh crap!!! Those were the only 2 good cars I have. I was sure I read another post that said it was OK to nip them off. Another lesson learned.
True, but I was looking forward to being able to switch cars around a yard w/o having to walk around and do it manually. I assume I can buy new couplers. What is the difference between delayed and not delayed uncoupler magnets?
RexHea, thanks for the quick reply. do I get "Standard shank" or "Wisker"? What's the difference?
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ken_23434
Member
There are more than one type of the magnet uncouplers.
There are the permanent magnet ones that mount between the rail on top of the ties and there are the electromagnet ones that mount under the layout(use DC not AC power). Those are the 2 basic types I know of from Kadee. I am sure there are other ones out there too.
I do not have any on my layout, but I have read that there are pretty specific instructions for the mounting locations (height relative to raid top, the height of the couplers, on a straight section of track, not a curve, ...)
Specifying what type you have and how you have mounted would probably help people to answer your question.
There are the permanent magnet ones that mount between the rail on top of the ties and there are the electromagnet ones that mount under the layout(use DC not AC power). Those are the 2 basic types I know of from Kadee. I am sure there are other ones out there too.
I do not have any on my layout, but I have read that there are pretty specific instructions for the mounting locations (height relative to raid top, the height of the couplers, on a straight section of track, not a curve, ...)
Specifying what type you have and how you have mounted would probably help people to answer your question.
The uncouplers are Kadee #321 "Magne-matic" and is a delayed action type. I tried setting one on the track (not glued) to see what it did and nothing happened. I also tried to shim it up above the track a little more (instructions say 1/64") to no avail. Do these require special couplers on the car? The cars are new Bachman Silver series.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Thanks for any help you can give.
hamltnblue
Active Member
The bachmann silvers should work. make sure they have metal hoses. I'm sure they do. Also try flipping the magnet over.
Do the hoses have something to do with the function of the uncoupler? If so, I might have done something stupid as I sniped a bit off the ends to clear part of a cross over.
hamltnblue
Active Member
Yes the hoses are pulled over by the uncoupler. That's what makes it work. If you notice it's the only metal part on the silver series couplers.
OOPS! That was most definitely a no-no
. You still may be able to bend them down enough that the magnet will work. Buying a bender tool for the hoses and a coupler gauge will help you keep this area working on your cars. Also, make sure the magnet is in perfect alignment with the track rails and even distance from the rails on the sides.Oh crap!!! Those were the only 2 good cars I have. I was sure I read another post that said it was OK to nip them off. Another lesson learned.
D&J RailRoad
Professor of HO
The recommendation to snip them off may also recommend that you use the hand magnetic uncoupler. Actually, the hand uncoupler tool is better to use because you can use it anywhere on the layout. So all may not be lost.
True, but I was looking forward to being able to switch cars around a yard w/o having to walk around and do it manually. I assume I can buy new couplers. What is the difference between delayed and not delayed uncoupler magnets?
Larry
Long Winded Old Fart
The difference between a delayed & a non delayed is; The delayed magnet lets you back into the magnet & pull forward a bit & the back up & push the car to the location in the uncoupled mode. What happens is the coupler will stayed uncoupled & you can pull out & it will not couple back up.
On the under the track magnet(delayed) it has a piece of thin metal on the bottom. You have to make sure you have the magnet placed in the correct position(the right side up.) under the tracks. I route out the wood w/my router before I lay the track. The between the rails magnet doesn't always work like you want especially if you don't have the Glad-hand(pipe) adjusted right w/your gage.
I have a whole new way of doing mine, but it would take up a whole page to explain it.
Larry
On the under the track magnet(delayed) it has a piece of thin metal on the bottom. You have to make sure you have the magnet placed in the correct position(the right side up.) under the tracks. I route out the wood w/my router before I lay the track. The between the rails magnet doesn't always work like you want especially if you don't have the Glad-hand(pipe) adjusted right w/your gage.
I have a whole new way of doing mine, but it would take up a whole page to explain it.
Larry
Duke, sure you can buy new couplers and that would be the way to go. I completely understand your reasons for using these, as they add more fun to the switching. I do not use them anymore as they became problematic with full ops and visitors mistakenly parking on them and getting unwanted disconnects.
* I don't know about now, but a couple of years ago, the between rail type were only designed to fit code 100 (as per Kadee) The code 83 had to have the ties cut, the magnet placed in a jig, then put in place on top of a bed of glue. A real pain in the a** but if you didn't do this, the hoses would snag.Do you have code 100 or 83?
When I was using magnets, I used the under-the-track type by Kadee. They are much stronger, but still require a good alignment. Also and as Larry added, you usually need to recess them a little into the sub roadbed. If you can't get a router in, then use a sharp wood chisel. Always use the delayed type and with the reflector metal plate on the bottom.
* I don't know about now, but a couple of years ago, the between rail type were only designed to fit code 100 (as per Kadee) The code 83 had to have the ties cut, the magnet placed in a jig, then put in place on top of a bed of glue. A real pain in the a** but if you didn't do this, the hoses would snag.Do you have code 100 or 83?
When I was using magnets, I used the under-the-track type by Kadee. They are much stronger, but still require a good alignment. Also and as Larry added, you usually need to recess them a little into the sub roadbed. If you can't get a router in, then use a sharp wood chisel. Always use the delayed type and with the reflector metal plate on the bottom.
I have the code 100 track. According to the instructions, all I have to do is glue it in the center of the track directly on the ties. For the life of me, I can't figure out how they uncouple anything. If I put the magnet by hand below the coupler, nothing happens or moves. I didn't realize model trains was going to be so complicated. Lots of newbie learning to do.
Yes, they just glue between the rails for code 100. The magnetic poles are on each side. Each pole pulls the hose nearest to it, separating the coupler. The magnet has to be exactly in the middle or it will have a tendency to pull both hoses the same direction. They do work and work good when installed correctly. Have you laid the mag between the rails and tried it? Having it in your hand will not give the proper distance in height or width. Regardless, if you cut the hoses, its not going to work. The curl that you normally have in the hose is what the mag is moving.
I was looking in the Walthers catalog (awsome catalog!) for couplers for the Bachman Silver series cars and found Kadee "Magne-matic". They list a couple different ones: a No. 5 and a No. 58 in either "standard shank" or "Whisker". Which do I need, or is there a better coupler?
I use No. 5's for most all of my rolling stock. A good all around coupler.
RexHea, thanks for the quick reply. do I get "Standard shank" or "Wisker"? What's the difference?
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