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Well-Known Member
I've mentioned these two projects in several postings scattered throughout the forum, but I thought I would bring them together in one single subject thread,...and particularly since I intend to utilize the same chassis for both projects.

PRR BP-20 loco (the looong shark)
"One other idea that I have in the back of my mind just for the fun of it was to create a plastic model of the PRR BP-20 (long Shark engine). I have some older Shark engine shells I was going to experiment with cutting up and making the longer version BP20. (Nobody makes it in plastic(yet) so I thought it might be interesting to experiment on). And the Proto 1000 chassis for the DL 109 makes an almost perfect fit for the BP-20, " NOTE: Well, not a 'perfect fit' as we'll see.
View attachment 35337

View attachment 35338

DL-110 or B-unit fpr DL-109
Santa Fe had one, and several other roads had one or two. On this kitbash it will not be necessary to extend the stock chassis.

Another of my postings that I can not find the images for that I posted ?????


Well-Known Member
Went back and inserted some photos into the discussions on this subject thread. Had to hunt up the photos on an old external hard drive.

I never finished these two projects as I got distracted by getting married to a Thai lady (in Thailand), and going off on some boat design projects.

Building a new layout now down in FL, so eventually I drag these two projects out into the daylight.

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Well-Known Member
Thanks Bobby,

I'll probably have to get someone to help me with the painting and decals as I have that ambitious new train layout in planning, and I just don't know when I will ever have the time nor a clean painting station set up anytime soon. (and I lack the experience in painting and decaling train models)


Well-Known Member
Hang in there! I've got about three years of different projects (NOT model railroad) that seem to get pushed back by one thing or another. That could take another 30 years, which is why I tell my doctors I need to last until 108! Right now I'm waiting for some Mantua steam locomotive pilots to arrive, as well as some Cal Scale details from Bowser.
Stay well and safe!


Days Gone Bye!
Staff member
BRIAN - I would not concern myself with "paint stripping" at this stage. Before I would do that, I would try a light coat, or two, of primer - then the silver and decals. Looks as if you have done a great job on mating the shells - a little "white" squadron putty and a touch of sanding should cover any seam.


Days Gone Bye!
Staff member
I have used the Squadron Green and more recently the "White" version which I like much better.
I have not tried the Testers brand, but that may actually be better due to the smaller tube and expense.
Pretty sure they are the same like material?


Well-Known Member
Looks like I am getting back to this subject of the B-unit for my SF DL 109,...

If I do the sound in the A-unit, I don't think I will need sound in my kit-bashed B-unit,...just a dcc motor decoder?

In another situation I have a very nice BLI E1 B-unit with paragon 3 sounds that could run with an unsounded A unit


Does anyone have some photos/description of their dcc/sound installation into these Proto 1000 chassis??


Well-Known Member
Another installation description,..

I found this interesting excerpt,..
To save me a little money and some sanity, I will be installing one LokSound decoder per A-B or A-A set. One unit will get the LokSound, the other will get LokPilot or dummied-out. I plan to map a second prime mover into the sound decoder with a separate function key for on-off. That way I can operate a matched set with both PM sounds running, or the sound unit alone or in an unlike consist with one PM sound running.


Well-Known Member

DCC IT! Building a Rocket! Converting a HO Scale Proto 1000 Rock Island ALCO DL-109 (And Consist)

EDITED: I was rather disappointed in this video...not much good info on the specific decoder installation.
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Well-Known Member
Okay back to the BB-20 kitbash, after a long break in time.

The correct length of the shell setting on the 'too short chassis',..and then setting over a scale drawing of the BP20


If i line the centers of the front truck up,..

Then the rear truck center needs to be 'adjusted',

I will have to lengthen the chassis about 1/2" to make the truck spacing correct,...I'm thinking of adding a 1/2" square steel tube somewhere between the 2 trucks to get the proper wheelbase,..

And likely I may add a very small addition to the end of that chassis to correct the rear coupler mounting.


Well-Known Member
Yesterday I cut my frame into 2 pieces and determined I could not use the square 1/2" metal tubes I had been thinking in gluing in to lengthen the chassis. It turns out they would have restricted the space down the center that I needed for the drive shaft.

As an alternative I found I had a nice strong wood strip that I could fashion a 3-sided spacer block from (2 sides and a bottom piece). I cut that up and lathered it with JB Weld, then pressed all together with a long clamp, and let it thoroughly set up over night. I cleaned up some of the overhang this morning with a file and a saw, and everything appeared solid,...good job I said to myself.

A little later I went out and picked it up , and it fell apart into 2 pieces with no force on it at all !!
the JB Weld appears to have stuck to the wood, but not to the one surface of the metal frame?
(this photo was taken after it had fallen apart)

DSCF9276.jpg DSCF9277.jpg

I'm wondering if I had some sort of contaminant on that metal surface as JB Weld should surely stick to that? The other end appears to be holding up fine??


Well-Known Member
I decided to retry the glue method first. Then if that fails a second time, I'll look at mechanical methods. I guess I just trust JB Weld, and wanted to give it a second try. I filed the surfaces once again, then cleaned them with solvent, and reglued them to sit over night. Sunday morning will be another test.

Appears my new gluing has worked,...we'll see long term. Meanwhile I think I will add a few additional supports.

I will have to add a little addition to the chassis at the rear to extend that support of a rear coupler.



Not a pretty looking job, but hopefully it works long term.


Well-Known Member
I decided to add some additional strengthening to my frame joint,...just as a precaution.

I added this thin plate of brass (.01") to the bottom, and made it fairly large in size to spread the loads. I decided to attach it with the super glue I get at Harbor Freight that has served me well with a few other projects,..
DSCF9283.jpg DSCF9284.jpg

If that glue doesn't work out I can easily remove it and use something else.

Then on the top of the frame I used that same superglue to attach 2 pieces of very strong music wire,..
DSCF9287.jpg DSCF9288.jpg

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