It has begun!! The Midland Line.

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NZRMac

In Training Down Under.
here's the start of my new layout

A new sliding compound mitre saw. Not the most expensive but it has a laser guide

And I picked up my supply of wood for the benchwork. There's a hundred metres sitting there.
 
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Steve B

Firefighter
Nice one Ken, that's a nice saw, i got one but mine does not slide back and forward, it just goes up and down so i can't cut anything over 4"x2"
 

RexHea

RAIL BENDER
All Right!! You can make it "fun work" cutting your boards with that saw. It will really make it go quicker and easier than a hand circular saw. Looking forward to progress pictures, Ken. I know you have been waiting a long time to get back into the heart of it all.;) :)
 

grande man

Bonafied Grande Nut
You guys that have the right tools for the job make me sick. :D

Lookin good Ken. I'm looking forward to your progrees reports.
 

NZRMac

In Training Down Under.
Well the skill saw with the wobbly blade just doesn't do it for me anymore:D

I even had permission from the CFO:eek:

I set the end stock up and have made the first cuts, just push the wood till it stops make the cut and be conifident it's the right length. I should have had one years ago.:rolleyes:

More photo's later I suspect.

Ken.
 

NZRMac

In Training Down Under.
The first section is in. 9ft long 28.5" deep and 41" off the floor.

It's even square. I screwed the rear of the cross braces from the front so I can remove them if a turnout control needs to be there (4th pic)

This is exciting ( and extremely nerve racking at the same time ).

Ken.

I'm having fun though.
 

NZRMac

In Training Down Under.
An update, I've been scratching my head over getting the bench work at the right height.
The main one is 41" off the floor and I'm thinking a 18" gap up to the top one.

It's funny on the track plan cause you can't visualise it till it's measured on the wall. I've checked it on the track plan and all the grades should be ok.

I'll use risers to bring the track down to correct level where it heads through the wall at the left end of the first pic.

The windows will become redundent, new backdrops going in.

I have been using a laser level to make sure it's all level, over 25' it's 1/4" out. Not Bad I reckon.
 
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RexHea

RAIL BENDER
:eek: 1/4" out in 25 feet!:eek: Anything less than perfect is totally unacceptable!:mad:

:D Just kidding, Ken:D . Man, you are moving along good. Wish you were here to help me with my addition. Isn't it fun at this point: knowing that with every screw and board you are getting closer to seeing your trains run again.

Keep up the good work. Many say careful laying of the track is the most important part of building a layout...I say if the benchwork isn't carefully put together, the track won't stay that way .;)
 

NZRMac

In Training Down Under.
Oh Yes Master!!

Duly noted, The cross braces are 13" centres on the main section and a little more on the end section:)

1/4" is ok isn't it?:confused:

Ken.
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
1/4" in 25 feet you say? Thats Like an Inch of elevation in 100 feet, thats quite amazing I say... But then again, thats like 2177 HO scale feet, with about 2 feet of elevation, which is what, .015% grade?
 

RexHea

RAIL BENDER
NZRMac said:
1/4" is ok isn't it?:confused:

Ken.
Heck yeah, it's ok. That's not enough to make a loaded box car roll that has bearings in the trucks. Besides, if you run across any areas that have too much of a variance in level, just shim the roadbed with some card stock. Don't think you will need any though.
 

NZRMac

In Training Down Under.
Oh cool I thought I'd made a c*** up on my first day!!

Need more screws!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ken.
 

IronBeltKen

Lazy Daydreamer
NZRMac said:
..., over 25' it's 1/4" out. Not Bad I reckon.
That is more level than the foundation of my above-ground swimming pool - and you know how critically level those have to be!

I threw my benchwork up 5 years ago when I first moved into my current house, over the years the wood has warped and it's not as level as it was back then - I simply inserted props below the legs wherever needed for re-leveling. Not the 'prettiest' solution I admit, but it works for me...:eek:
 

NZRMac

In Training Down Under.
BB Michigan said:
I like those recessed lights in the ceiling. Can't go wrong with that saw either. Nice work btw.

Can't go wrong at $7.50 each nice general lighting for now.

Thanks for the comments! Ken.
 

NZRMac

In Training Down Under.
More progress photos. This is the main gate for visitors. The plan is to have a city station on the lower level with some tall building flats on the backdrop hiding the joins.

Gate closed.


Gate open.


I needed to make it as wide as the sliding door ( large step father!! )

The C shaped side ends of the gate will be completed with a fascia board along the front edge.

The top level on the left isn't there yet.

The left rear corner of the gate has a wheel on it which rolls up a wee ramp and aligns the height perfectly every time, then a slide bolt at the front left (just visible) holds the whole thing shut.

Works for me!!

Ken.
 
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Steve B

Firefighter
Ken that is one awsome looking gate, mine has been swung on, banged by the builder and it still lines up because of the little ramp at the bottom, pretty useless at the moment though as it's all coming out for the grand re building project
 




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