I have some ideas but I am looking for others. I have about a 15 foot stretch on my layout were the track is as long. The track has a nice smooth flow. I want to put a 4 lane rural hwy. that follows along side of the track. (there is an area from my town to the next town were HWY 20 does just that for about ten miles) My layout has a foam core base. As of right now the area where I want to put the road is nice and smooth. The road will only cross the track at one point and that is at the end of the stretch. What do you think,drywall mudd a woodland scenics kit, etc. I am looking for a faded blacktop look not concrete. Any help would be great. Thanks!
Ideas wanted for making a highway
- Thread starter dekker
- Start date
Rico
BN Modeller
Can't remember who on the forum steered me this way, but here's something to consider: http://www.telusplanet.net/public/crowley/ashphalt_roads.htm
Otherwise, I use styrene and sandpaper for roads.
Try googleing scale model roads and see what comes up...
Otherwise, I use styrene and sandpaper for roads.
Try googleing scale model roads and see what comes up...
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Dekker, I hope you don't mind me riding on this thread, but I was just about to post almost the same thing. I'm sure you will benefit with the answer.
I was going to ask:
Has anyone used or know of use with the neoprene "peel and stick" highways and streets that are made by Busch, Noch, Heki? do they work? which is best?
I was going to ask:
Has anyone used or know of use with the neoprene "peel and stick" highways and streets that are made by Busch, Noch, Heki? do they work? which is best?
I've used .010 styrene sheets, cut to size, exclusively for roads. I really hate using plaster for anything, including curbs and sidewalks. It's messy and it never comes out looking right. I've also tried the flexfoam method and it does look good as asphalt if it's painted and weathered right. The cracking that is shown in the picture looks good but just wait until you put your elbow or a drill down on the stuff. Those cracks are now the size of the Grand Canyon.
Styrene can be used for either concrete or asphalt. It's really easy to glue down with latex caulk and it's just a matter of painting and weathering it to get the right look. It's also a lot easier to put down center stripes and road markings, whether you use decals or paint. If you need sidewalks and curbs. thicker styrene works great. You can use a fine tip marker to control things like tar lines on concrete roads or cracks on an asphalt road. I just don't see the need to reinvent the wheel when you have a cheap source of road material available. You can even use the plastic "For Sale" type signs they sell at Walmart and have enough material for every road you'll ever need for $5.
Rex, I've tried those peel and stick roads. They are European in size, which means too narrow for a typical US road. The road markings don't match US road markings, and you still have to paint and weather them if you don't want them to look like neoprene strips. They also have a tendency to start to pull loose from foam after a few months, especially in a humid climate like ours. On top of that, the are expensive as all get out. Other than that, they're fine.
Styrene can be used for either concrete or asphalt. It's really easy to glue down with latex caulk and it's just a matter of painting and weathering it to get the right look. It's also a lot easier to put down center stripes and road markings, whether you use decals or paint. If you need sidewalks and curbs. thicker styrene works great. You can use a fine tip marker to control things like tar lines on concrete roads or cracks on an asphalt road. I just don't see the need to reinvent the wheel when you have a cheap source of road material available. You can even use the plastic "For Sale" type signs they sell at Walmart and have enough material for every road you'll ever need for $5.
Rex, I've tried those peel and stick roads. They are European in size, which means too narrow for a typical US road. The road markings don't match US road markings, and you still have to paint and weather them if you don't want them to look like neoprene strips. They also have a tendency to start to pull loose from foam after a few months, especially in a humid climate like ours. On top of that, the are expensive as all get out. Other than that, they're fine.
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Rex, I generally don't add any texture if it's a main highway. Asphalt on well-paved roads is actually pretty smooth. Check out this newly paved driveway:
If it's more worn asphalt, I use Ken's idea of the sandpaper but I go the opposite way. After the color is the way I want it, I uses 400 grit grey sandpaper and then use a dull exacto blade to scape off the grit until I get the look I want. Not all parts of the road will be equally worn so this gives me the chance to vary the road surface. When I'm done, I use the usual ballast gluing method to secure the grit place. This method also makes it easy to add smooth asphalt patches to an otherwise worn road by not adding any grit.
If it's more worn asphalt, I use Ken's idea of the sandpaper but I go the opposite way. After the color is the way I want it, I uses 400 grit grey sandpaper and then use a dull exacto blade to scape off the grit until I get the look I want. Not all parts of the road will be equally worn so this gives me the chance to vary the road surface. When I'm done, I use the usual ballast gluing method to secure the grit place. This method also makes it easy to add smooth asphalt patches to an otherwise worn road by not adding any grit.
PNKFLOYD
Mikey
Although it is sometimes harder to find now, builder's felt (tarpaper) is the right texture and easy to cut off long pieces. If an old house or shed is being torn down, you can "acquire" several pieces to do an entire layout. It is easily cut with old sissors or a knife.
If the pavement color is too dark, various acrylic paint washes from light to dark gray will work.
More than one way to skin a cat or pave a road!
Mikey
If the pavement color is too dark, various acrylic paint washes from light to dark gray will work.
More than one way to skin a cat or pave a road!
Mikey
Thanks guys; you have some good ideas. Dekker and I will just have to jump in and try them.
The area I need to work on will be from the passenger station through the edge of my service facility, to the town just over the edge of the layout...you know, over yonder.
Mikey, are you talking about roofing (felt) paper? I may have a scrap roll of that somewhere.
The area I need to work on will be from the passenger station through the edge of my service facility, to the town just over the edge of the layout...you know, over yonder
.Mikey, are you talking about roofing (felt) paper? I may have a scrap roll of that somewhere.
Rex, I think Mikey is talking about building paper, which is kraft paper that's been saturated with waterproofing asphalt. It's usually used as undelayment on walls as a vapor barrier. It would be about the right thickness and the texture for an asphalt road would be good since it's real asphalt to begin with. Roofing felt would be a little too thick and the texture would be pretty rough for an HO scale road. Mikey, if I have this wrong, let me know.
Two points worthy of consideration in choosing a material to represent asphalt roads -
Firstly, in 1/87 or 1/160 scale, asphalt roads, while varying in tone or appearance of wear, would show no texture and appear essentially smooth.
Secondly, except were just recently laid down, asphalt is grey in color (similar to very fine grey emery paper), not black, or anything close to it. If one uses a black colored material, then considerable weathering or painting will be necessary to transition it to a reasonably realistic color.
NYW&B
Firstly, in 1/87 or 1/160 scale, asphalt roads, while varying in tone or appearance of wear, would show no texture and appear essentially smooth.
Secondly, except were just recently laid down, asphalt is grey in color (similar to very fine grey emery paper), not black, or anything close to it. If one uses a black colored material, then considerable weathering or painting will be necessary to transition it to a reasonably realistic color.
NYW&B
PNKFLOYD
Mikey
Jim and Rex- sorry that I'm just now getting back to you. REAL busy weekend.
You could use either the roofing felt or the building wrap tarpaper for roads.
The building wrap used on new contruction now is usually plastic sheets, but the older style was essentually a heavy tar-impregnated paper.
Several pieces I used were off and old shed and sun faded to a gray-brown color. We actually used black acrylic paint to show road patches.
Using new paper, I would give it a wash of highly thinned white or light gray latex or acrylic paint. Non-uniform coverage of the wash gives a prototypical appearance to the pavement.
If you use white or carpenters glue to secure the paper to scenery, be sure all creases and wrinkles are out of the paper when you put a weight on it to dry. Use weathering chalks to simulate places where dirt washes across the pavement from dirt roads and driveways.
Hope y'all have a cooler, constructive and productive week.
Mikey
You could use either the roofing felt or the building wrap tarpaper for roads.
The building wrap used on new contruction now is usually plastic sheets, but the older style was essentually a heavy tar-impregnated paper.
Several pieces I used were off and old shed and sun faded to a gray-brown color. We actually used black acrylic paint to show road patches.
Using new paper, I would give it a wash of highly thinned white or light gray latex or acrylic paint. Non-uniform coverage of the wash gives a prototypical appearance to the pavement.
If you use white or carpenters glue to secure the paper to scenery, be sure all creases and wrinkles are out of the paper when you put a weight on it to dry. Use weathering chalks to simulate places where dirt washes across the pavement from dirt roads and driveways.
Hope y'all have a cooler, constructive and productive week.
Mikey
Fuuny
I came to scenery forum to ask about woodland scenics "smooth it" for roads.
I was concerned it might lay down too thick. Anyone have any experience with that stuff?
Also...If you use gray or black sand paper for roads (secondary) what would be the best choice for concrete streets for in town? The sandpaper route sure does make for theoretically nicer looking side walks and curbs made of styrene if your streets downtown are asphalt.
I came to scenery forum to ask about woodland scenics "smooth it" for roads.
I was concerned it might lay down too thick. Anyone have any experience with that stuff?
Also...If you use gray or black sand paper for roads (secondary) what would be the best choice for concrete streets for in town? The sandpaper route sure does make for theoretically nicer looking side walks and curbs made of styrene if your streets downtown are asphalt.
kenw
5th Generation Texian
"Smooth it" appears to be a latex mud or sheetrocking plaster material from what I can tell. I've never used it, but it did seem a bit thick when I snooped inside some many years ago. Basic joint compound from Home Depot would appear to be the same material in much more economical form.
for concrete surfaces, the inherent smoothness of styrene is hard to beat. Scratch it, chip it, beat it up to add realism. Most i've seen are much too "flat" and "smooth" to look real, so if you can use really thin sheets and warp it (hair dryer?) it might help.
I remember seeing one N-scale layout where he used duct tape (yes...) painted a darker grey for roads. Looked darn good at the time, altho I might question the longevity of it.
for concrete surfaces, the inherent smoothness of styrene is hard to beat. Scratch it, chip it, beat it up to add realism. Most i've seen are much too "flat" and "smooth" to look real, so if you can use really thin sheets and warp it (hair dryer?) it might help.
I remember seeing one N-scale layout where he used duct tape (yes...) painted a darker grey for roads. Looked darn good at the time, altho I might question the longevity of it.
