Grade Crossings...

[JeffShultz]

It seems like one of the toughest things to make look "right" is where the road and the railroad meet. This is a triple track grade crossing that I recently put in - it still looks pretty rough.

Let's see yours!

 

[kenw]

these are really a lot harder to do than i thought when I started on mine. Part of the problem is that they tend to be foreground items and very visible!

I finally went the simple route and trimmmed a piece of sandpaper (same as I use for asphalt roads) and after gluing it to some styrene to bulk it up a bit, just glued it in place. Done!

If you are lucky enough (or plan better than me...) and have straight track at your crossings, you can use pre-scored Evergreen styrene sheet that has the score lines in it to match scale wood planking. Some brown paint like Jeff has done here and you're done.

A modern precast concrete and rubber crossing is going to take some work....anyone game?

 

[sushob]

Well, first of all, my layout consists of a 2-foot piece of scrap wood that has enough room for all of three cars. I did include a road though, even if my lil' display track is only 3 inches wide . I did have two crossing signs, but I believe my math book has overcome them, as this board resides on my desk/table. The white paint splotch is a result of painting my ceiling and not being careful LoL. I apologize for the poor photo.

 

[George D]

It looks good, Jeff. You get extra degree of difficulty points for having that piece of curved track under the road.

George

 

[CBCNSfan]

Hmm! gutsy aint you. Well I have to do a crossing, but no way would I tackle a three track crossing let alone one with a curve in it! I'll just follow your lead and use sandpaper. However one difficulty for me is there is very noticable grade where I want to put the crossing so I think that'll be enough challange for me. Nice crossing work in both the above pictures.
Cheers Willis


Arrrg! there's 3 pics

 

[modelbob]

Jeff,

One small critique on your crossing and a suggestion...

The critique is that your white lines are WAY too close. I understand the need for selective compression, but they definitely should be back a scale 10 feet at least, if not more. Even that is close, but it will look better.

The suggestion is to clean up the edges of your road a bit. If you look at a typical asphalt highway, the edges are usually pretty even, unless it's very old and crumbling. Try smoothing yours out a bit, and then put some gravel edging on them.

Here's a good example of what I'm talking about. Obviously this is a pretty minor road, it looks like it's only one lane wide. Still it's got gravel shoulders and no large drop-offs. It doesn't have any stripes, probably due to the road being tar and chips.
http://www.railroadforums.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=15210&sort=1&cat=604&page=1

PS - Yes, I'm being picky, and no most folks won't notice this stuff. Part of what our company does is install crossings and signals, so I see stuff most folks never know exists.

 

[JeffShultz]

Okay, first the wooden crossing is made by Blair Line and is a Walthers item - you can go to my homepage http://www.shultzinfosystems.com/ and click on the "new photos" story and get all the links - and the rubber ones are Walther's Cornerstone. The Cornerstone kit provides more than you need, including approach ramps and a section that will go between a double-track section. It also provides two sets of grade crossings.
The Blair Line crossing is stained, multiple times, with Minwax Dark Walnut 216.
I agree the lines look wrong. They're white art pencil... which will probably get "erased" in some fashion.
As for the edges, they aren't nearly done - I'll be using sculpt-a-mold or spackling paste to finish the edges off and give it some shoulder.

 

[JeffShultz]

It looks good, Jeff. You get extra degree of difficulty points for having that piece of curved track under the road.

George

I darn near pounded my head flat when I realized I'd stuck myself in that situation....

 

[JeffShultz]

A modern precast concrete and rubber crossing is going to take some work....anyone game?

Walthers already does....

Wooden (Blair Line):
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/184-165

Concrete (usable)
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3140

Rubber:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3137

 

[CBCNSfan]

( By Willis) "However one difficulty for me is there is very noticable grade where I want to put the crossing so I think that'll be enough challange for me."

Thanks for the photo Bob, that's almost exactly what I want. Difference will be operating gates, arms whatever with the lights.

almost exactly (oxymoron for the day)

Cheers Willis

 

[kenw]

those do look great but making your own is all the fun!

why else would I spend hours making these when I could buy them already made?

But I guess that's the part of the hobby I like: making things. A lot of the kits you can buy are actually better looking and certainly take the guess work out of the effort but making it out of whatever I can find is somehow more satisfying to me.

It may also explain why my layout remains mosty unfinished....

 

[B_Kosanda]

What are you talking about Ken? You lay sandpaper down for roads? Go you paint it?

Bill

 

[B_Kosanda]

I meant "do" you paint it, not "go" you paint it.

 

[B_Kosanda]

My most recent roads are made of drywall compound and the rubber crossings are made of styrene glued in place and painted black. I'll try to take a pic of the crossing. One problem I have is that if I use a Bright Boy on the tracks and am not careful, it scratches the paint off the styrene, because it butts right up against the rails. Yikes.

Bill

Bill

 

[kenw]

Yes, Bill, sandpaper for roads, parking lots, roofs whatever migth be done from asphalt. 400-600 grit dark grey /black paper has the right texture for asphalt. Sometimes a light coat of grimey black will soften it up a bit.

spend a few minutes in the sandpaper aisle at the local mega-hardware store and find some that suits your needs.

and don't use the wife's good sewing scissors....