Flange-ways in our Turnouts


There is a saying that goes: "The enemy of the good is the better," and in this case it might apply to solutions to your problems. As in "the enemy of the good solution (messing around with the flangeway tolerances) is the better...the easier...and that would be to overweight the cars and locomotives both. Perhaps to several times over the NMRA standard, in fact. The [HO] La Mesa MRR club does exactly this--a hundred car train might weigh 50 lbs (!) , which goes a long, long way to minimizing or even eliminating derailments.
I'm going to go out on a limb here (please don't take offense) and guess that if the problems are with off the shelf, rather than handlaid turnouts, then the train lengths are quite a bit shorter than 100 cars...in which case weighting the cars well over NMRA standard is probably a much simpler solution. Moreover, the heavy cars LOOK a lot better too--there is a perceptible feel of weight and inertia to all the cars...or the ones you overweight anyway.
I'll opine further: If flangeway depth is really a problem, then do be aware there is a tradeoff in which all the wheels might ride along the bottom of the flanges, but at the expense of the some of the treads riding too high, and thereby failing to make contact with the rails (which can also exacerbate the problems you are battling). Treads riding up and off the rails can also create electrical problems, as regards simple things like power to a locomotive--if the gaps are wide enough, the wheelsets might not make contact to draw power, resulting in stutter.
There can be similar problems with regard to track detector/detection circuits
Unless you are willing to start milling or turning wheelsets to tighter tolerances, it's certainly simpler to use whatever RP25 wheelsets you can buy off the shelf. Perhaps sort them, measure them, and discard the ones that are just too "rough."

There is also the old adage: "Don't reinvent the wheel," and in this case I'll point you toward "Proto: 87," a tighter standard, who's adherents have probably already battled through these problems and found workable solutions. You might peruse what they have already done, and follow their suggestions.

In any case, I wish you good luck battling the problems, however you choose to do it.



Good places to start, perhaps.
 
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I had heard that this 'extra weighting' can produce positive results. I may keep that in mind if I run across a particularly troublesome car.

Thar very small flange on those RP 25 wheels certainly keeps up to really exact track laying.
 
It does appear that Code 83 users have less problems, as these came along after the Code 100 rail products, and since most were targeted at the American market, there were adjustments made in the design of them.

Are there many (any) European track/turnout manufactures supplying Code 83 stuff (other than Peco).
Peco, Piko and Noch are all manufacturers of HO scale track in Europe, as far as I know only Peco supply the alternative code track products.
 
If I may make a suggestion: how about closing-frog turnouts (aka "high-speed" turnouts)? There's was a decent article on the topic in (if I recall correctly) the September 1981 issue of Model Railroader. While less prototypical (though they do show up on some high speed lines), they do eliminate wheel drop. The old Tru-Scale versions are long out of manufacture, but it's a decent project for hand-laying.
 
the atlas custom line number six switches that i used on my layout received three modifications .. the all took a couple of hours before i started laying them down .. first i install small jumper wires on the point to stock rails so they no longer had to rely on physical contact, second , i lightly filed the top of the frog [some were just a bit high], and last, i added small 0.010 inch black polystyrene shims to the bottom of the flange ways in the frog areas [the original ones would drop the wheel a bit]
 
the atlas custom line number six switches that i used on my layout received three modifications .. the all took a couple of hours before i started laying them down .. first i install small jumper wires on the point to stock rails so they no longer had to rely on physical contact, second , i lightly filed the top of the frog [some were just a bit high], and last, i added small 0.010 inch black polystyrene shims to the bottom of the flange ways in the frog areas [the original ones would drop the wheel a bit]
Exactly how I tune up all of my Atlas switches.
 
I basically do the same as wvg_ca and Willie do. Also, I use a truck as my gauge to determine when the switch is tuned properly. If the truck rolls smoothly and I mean completely smooth, through a switch, I'm done. If not, I continue tuning, much as wig_ca states. I only had one or two switches that I had a problem with wheels dropping and I fixed them by adding shims, as already mentioned. Most of my issues have been caused by high frogs and narrow flange-ways. Both of which I fix using a small file. Every switch should be tuned before you consider installing it. It is far easier to do so, before they are installed. When tuning make sure to add a piece of sectional track to each leg of the switch. Obviously, when installed the legs will have something attached to them, so they should be tested that way. And it gives you more distance to roll the truck. Glenn
 
The main problem I've had, ocassionally, with Peco Code 100 turnouts, is that the guardrails are designed for OO scale, and don't pull the wheels away from the point of the frog. Doesn't always happen, but the cure is to install .010" shim on the guardrail across from the stock rail. The other recommendations are excellent, where needed.
 



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