EMD SW1500 Details


NWCanuck said:
I think I have found a solution for my decoder and sound dilemma here:

http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=1647

Looks like the "LokSound 16 x 25 mm (.640" x 1") speaker" is the solution. I think I am still going to go with a Soundtraxx decoder though. Also the link is proof that "Josh" (jbaakko) is everywhere!:D
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If I may quote myself, it gets better. It seems SoundTraxx has recently posted a new Decoder Selector here:

http://www.soundtraxx.com/choose/step1.php

And wouldn’t you know it they have gone the extra mile with a PDF file regarding everything you need to know about equipping your SW1500 models here:

http://www.soundtraxx.com/documents/appnotes/SW1000&SW-1500App.pdf
 
wheeler1963 said:
Brad, Have you finished up these 2 yet?
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Thanks for reminding me.:eek:

Both units are fully decaled and ready for the final gloss coat, dull coat and some weathering. I kind of slacked off on them and was working on some other stuff thinking that I would wait for the decoders and sound before final assembly. It would save me taking them apart again for the decoders after they were all finished. But in reality there is no reason I couldn't just finish them up and worry about the decoders later. I am away next week but when I get back I think I am going to wrap these guys up.

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Man it’s been awhile, I had to go digging to find this one again. I started talking about this project near the end of October 2010 and it is April 2011 now. I was almost feeling bad about the whole time line and then I thought about how long it takes Atlas to build and release a loco these days (U30C!) and started feeling good again.

I was getting hung up on how to convert these locos to LEDs. I tried using some square surface mount LEDs but wasn't really happy with the fit. Then I remembered I had some round LEDs that I got from Mark for his ditch light installs. I started messing around with them and as it turns out two of them soldered in series is the exact width of the headlights. With the light pipes Jerome sent me for the Blue Box version SW1500, I think my problem is finally solved.

Here is a close up (as close as I could get) of the lights soldered in series. Wire leads are for testing and will have to be rerouted for fit.

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Here are some shots from the manufactures website for clarity. The shape of the contacts makes them a perfect fit to one another for soldering in series. I recommend using a liquid flux to get the solder to flow and to reduce the iron to LED time (only takes a second to flow). I also used the tape on the work bench method to hold them while I soldered them. I will also probably use the magnet wire Mark sent me for the final connections to the decoder.

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Well, well, well!! Mr Brad has returned to this one finally!! LOL ;) Been looking forward to seeing the finish twins here Brad.
 
wheeler1963 said:
Well, well, well!! Mr Brad has returned to this one finally!! LOL ;) Been looking forward to seeing the finish twins here Brad.
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I know brutal eh! This must be like watching paint dry for a guy that bangs out a half dozen or more of these a week. I have to admit I was having some issues with knowing what parts I needed for these things. Anytime I found that I needed something that I missed and it was another week of waiting for parts arrivals (no LHS around me really stock to many detail parts anymore). The nice thing is that after doing these I will know for the next time what I need and will order everything all at once.

I am wondering what I should do about the windows glazings on the all weather windows. Should I just leave them blank or get some clear glazings and custom cut to fit?

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I didn't bother with the undecorated hand rails that came with the RTR and ordered some replacements for a NS SW1500 which were black with yellow risers. I then lightly sanded them with 1000 grit in hopes that whatever I put on them will adhear better? The real reason was that I wanted them to match the Polly Scale "Steam Power" black that is on the shell because all the stock railings are very shiny and from what I have heard it is hard to get paint to stick to them. Should I then hit the railing with some Dull Coat to seal and protect them?

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Other than this I am ready to weather and then on last coat of dull coat.:D
 
Brad, I'd try and put the glazing in there. You've gone this far not to complete them. I'd use the dull-coat on the hand rails after the color coat. Just baby those things and you'll be OK.
 
Sounds good to me. I will swing by the LHS and see if they have any clear styrene for the windows. I was kind of surprised that the all weather windows did not come with glazing. And while I am there do you know what # Kadees fit the RTR. I am always confused by the insane selection of couplers they have?
 
Brad, the P2K all-weather windows have a nice glass insert. I've been saving them from ones I've bought lately. I use the KayDee #158 scale whisker couplers.
 
wheeler1963 said:
Brad, the P2K all-weather windows have a nice glass insert. I've been saving them from ones I've bought lately. I use the KayDee #158 scale whisker couplers.
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I just checked a P2K RS27 that I have still in the box and you are right about the nice all weather windows. Too bad for me I used DA all weather windows, but it should not be a big deal to shape some clear styrene to fit.

Would you say that Kadee #158's are an all round good fit for most locos? I have some Atlas with Accumates and some Athearns with McHenry's and some Exactrail boxcars with Kadee #58's which if I am right are the same as #158 for length and shape except #158's have whiskers and #58 have centering pocket. I would rather buy are bulk pack of 25 vs. 2 pair packs.
 
It'll be a bit hard getting those little pieces in there from inside the cab. But I'm sure you'll get it done. I love the #158's. Mark started me using them. They work great on the Athearn BB engines with the KayDee coupler boxes. I'm going back and retro fitting all my switchers with them. And screw mounting the boxes.
 
PaulB said:
Two Athearn SW1500's arrived on my doorstep today :D. There is a pic of my current roster added as an attachment. Now I have four projects to work on.

As regards the two new SW 1500's, the running boards look very smooth. I noticed there are some posts earlier in the thread about Cannon & Co. mesh etchings, however it seems they don't quite fit the new models. Is there any information anyone can give me about mesh etchings for the runnning boards.
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Cannon part number 2037 will get you all the steps and some of the tread plate that you need for the front and back. The side tread plate does not look right on the model because of the over sized notches cut out for the railings.

http://shop.cannonandco.net/product.sc?productId=155&categoryId=16

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The solution is to custom cut tread plate from Cannon part number 2016. Then all you have to do is drill out the holes for your railings once the side tread plate is in place.

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http://shop.cannonandco.net/product.sc?productId=123&categoryId=16

Here is what it should look like. Some of the holes have been drilled for the railings in this photo

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In this photo you can see the parts from 2037 are in brass and the custom cut parts from 2016 are in copper. One thing I should note is that you will have to decide whether or not you want the tread plate over the anti climber or not. If you want it you will have to sand down the thickness of the drop step so it will slide under the tread plate. You will not be able to raise or lower this detail part if you decide to go this route. In the photo I show the tread plate installed over the anti climber but decided after the fact to remove it before painting and install the drop steps in the upright position. I just thought it looked better.

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Hope this helps with your SW1500.
 
Brad, did you ever get any word back from Cannon about their thread kit not fitting the RTR SW1500's????
 
wheeler1963 said:
Brad, did you ever get any word back from Cannon about their thread kit not fitting the RTR SW1500's????
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I did get a reply back from Dave who I assume is the owner of Cannon and Company. It was about six months ago now but he did not seem to see an issue with the fit. I pretty much blew it off and at that point took your suggestion of substituting the 2016 tread plate for the catwalk.

Here is the picture I posted for him over on Diesel Detailer showing the miss alignment.

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Here is the "Wheeler" solution using 2016 tread plate. I was a little surprised that he (Dave) didn't say much about my suggestion of using 2016 tread plate in the 2037 kit, I mean come on, we all know how to drill a hole.

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So for those watching, to make it look right on an Athearn SW1500 RTR with deck mounted railings, you will need Cannon 2037 and 2016 tread plate and some very minor modifications.
 
Thanks for the advice Brad. I've just moved towns and I am getting around to working out the parts list. Now, I have a difficult decision, which prototype?

Here are two pics from RRphotoarchives.

On the left we have South Buffalo Railway #7 and #5 respectively. No. 7 is ex-RF&P. No. 5 (and no.6) are ex-SP. This is what the locos looked like in the late '80s and early '90s.

So there is one choice, an SB railway based around the Lackwanna steel works toward the end of it's days.

The pic on the right is a USS loco at Granite. The no. is 1248, I think. This is a good example on which to base a freelance model.

So I need to decide on whether to go with the SB rwy or a freelance shortline before I can make up a parts list. Any advice?
 
No ideas, eh? No problem, I've thought of a solution. I'll model all three.

I currently have two undecorated standard SW1500's (says 95840 on the box). The people at Athearn say they have the hood, cab and light boards for the SP style. Dan's casting has the decals in HO, N and Z (I need the HO for no5, the N scale for no.7 and the Z scale for a future slug project).


It's seems there is no obstical to modelling the South Buffalo locos. I might proceed with my original idea and model the SB rwy. But it can be hard to choose which rototypes or whether freelance might be better.


OK, once I have the Athearn SP parts to do up one of the standard models as South Buffalo no.5, what other parts will I need?


List of General Details for All Models

2x Canon & Co SW1500 steps/walkways: part 2037
1x Canon & Co tread strips: part 2016
1x Detail Associates AAR lift bars: part 229-2212
1x Detail Associates Eyebolts: part 229-2206

Not sure about these:
1x Detail Associates radiator grills SW units: part 229-2709
1x Detail Associates Class lights (7"?): part 229-1709

The grill looks wrong for this prototype. It is of a diagonal pattern rather than the square type. I think it is suitable for earlier EMD switchers. The solution might be to use parts from this and the Atlas radiator cover from their MP15DC. And a quick check shows Atlas does indeed sell the front grilles as spares. Item code 990218

The lights need replacing on the model but I haven't yet measured the holes. I guess them to be about 1mm which would equal the scale 4'5" version (part 229-1708). But if closer to 2mm, then the scale 7" would be right. I'll edit this later after I dig a ruler and caliphers out of their boxes.



Specific Details

SB no. 5.

This is an ex-SP loco, so I'd imagine it has the same antennas and such like. I've attached a pic of no.6 (no.5 is the one behind it). I need to hunt for more photos.

SB no.7

This is the ex-RF&P loco, which I'll model in the years immediately following its aquisition. So it will still be in patched RF&P colours.

I think it has a firecracker antenna and it has spark arrestors. Detail associates does no make the right type. Does anyone know which comany makes them? These are the closest I can find:

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/247-131
 
Paul you don't need class lights. In all 4 of the pictures you show, all of the class lights have been removed. As for the spark arrestors, tube styrene filed, sanded, cut to fit will work. I made these for the WC SW1500's.

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Jerome, how do you manage to make those old blue box SW1500's look so good?:eek:

I intend to use the class light plastic for the headlights with a light source inside the hood. Perhaps that is an old fashion way of doing it. Do you fix LEDs dirrectly into the headlight holes?

In regard to the spark arrestors, may I ask about some dimensions? What is the diameter and length of the main drum and the small exhaust pipe?

Here's a little pic of a train I took earlier today. Ops, it's not a switcher so I'll add a switch pic too in compensation.
 
Paul, I think the BB SW's are the easiest to build. They are tough and very forgiving when building them. Are you doing the newer RTR SW's for your builds? I use the Athearn stock headlight lenses with an LED behind them. Spark arrestors, ummmmmmmm I just kinda made them. LOL Shoot me a PM with your address and I'll send you a pair as examples. Nice steamer, where was that at???
 
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