EMD SW1500 Details


Yup. I had them mixed up. Was even on thier website at the same time I made that previous post too and still screwed it up. Oh well.

Jerome. Do you have any expierence detailing MP15s?
 
ChevelleSSguy said:
Yup. I had them mixed up. Was even on thier website at the same time I made that previous post too and still screwed it up. Oh well.

Jerome. Do you have any expierence detailing MP15s?
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Chris, you ask a silly question like that of me??? hehehehe :D If it's a switcher, i'll do it!! LOL :cool:

Which one?? Athearn, Atlas, Con-Cor?????? I have some of each.
 
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wheeler1963 said:
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Jerome, I think have asked you this before but I can not remember or find your answer in other posts. Do you paint your models with oil based paints only or do you dabble with the acrylics from time to time? Also what is the primary colour (name) or brand of black you use for your models that require black?

I think the oil based paints tend to have a smoother finish than the acrylics do. The acrylics seem to dry with a slightly rougher surface and do not lay down as glossy and smooth as the oil based paints do. I noticed this on the F3 model that I painted awhile back. I seem to remember having to do a couple gloss coats to get a suitable decaling surface. You must have an easier time using oil based paint, no?
 
Brad, I use Floquil paints (oil Based) for 99% of my painting. I use Testors gloss and dull-coats mixed 70/30%. The black you see on that BNSF switcher is Floquil's Engine Black with 2 coats of Testors gloss-coat on it. I believe oil based is easier, but that's just my humble opinion. ;)
 
Nice, Thanks for posting those. Are you using a different colour black on the truck side frames or are you just not spraying those with gloss?

I've got a couple more quick ones. When you have to paint the stacks a different colour are you taping them off and spraying them or are you brush painting them? Have you ever use Micro Scales Micro Mask Liquid (Liquid Tape)?

Also as far as window glazing goes, I was going to just going to hold them in place with a dab of Micro Scale Kristal Klear in the corners. The stuff is supposed to dry clear and it is the only thing I can think of that won't fog the glazing other then Canopy Glue. What are you using for your glazing?

Last but not least for the number boards front and back what decal sheet are you using from Micro Scale?

Sorry to hammer you with questions.:D
 
NWCanuck said:
Nice, Thanks for posting those. Are you using a different colour black on the truck side frames or are you just not spraying those with gloss?

I've got a couple more quick ones. When you have to paint the stacks a different colour are you taping them off and spraying them or are you brush painting them? Have you ever use Micro Scales Micro Mask Liquid (Liquid Tape)?

Also as far as window glazing goes, I was going to just going to hold them in place with a dab of Micro Scale Kristal Klear in the corners. The stuff is supposed to dry clear and it is the only thing I can think of that won't fog the glazing other then Canopy Glue. What are you using for your glazing?

Last but not least for the number boards front and back what decal sheet are you using from Micro Scale?

Sorry to hammer you with questions.:D
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Brad, no problem, you know I like to help out.

#1 Usually I dirty up the trucks, so I dull coat them. Just never got any weathering on those yet.

#2 If I do the stacks, I just brush paint those. Don't worry about making a few mistakes, the real RR's do it all of the time!!!! I tried Micro Scales Micro Mask, didn't care to much for it. Was a real pain to get back off of glazing.

#3 Some units I use the stock Athearn glazing, other I use the fancy each window pane kind. If I do use those, I use Formula 560 Canopy Glue.

#4 Number boards are a real pain for the SW's. Nobody makes a really good set of numbers for them. I've heard some people use N scale decals. But even those are really gonna be hard for a 4 digit number. Most of the time I leave them blank.
 
wheeler1963 said:
Chris, you ask a silly question like that of me??? hehehehe :D If it's a switcher, i'll do it!! LOL :cool:

Which one?? Athearn, Atlas, Con-Cor?????? I have some of each.
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I dont have any MPs locos yet. But not only am I a BNSF guy. I also model the CNW and I would like to do several MPs in CNW colors. I presume the Atlas units are the way to go for good quality MP's? Have you dont any CNW switchers before?
 
I was about to paint my side frames last night and I realized I was missing something. I had bought Detail Associates Part number 2809 "Truck Air Line" for the Blomberg side frames. The problem is that they do not fit. They measure 37mm and the side frames on mine are about 44mm. So I decided to use Details Associates Part number 2504 Brass Wire (0.12") and fabricate my own. The holes were drilled with a #80 bit. The DA version is too short and also sits to high above the cylinders. There maybe another version out there but I need to keep this project moving forward.

View attachment 23169

I also took the extra time while I was at it to remove the Flash from the molding process by scraping it off with the edge of a #11 Blade (Circled in black in the photo). This flash also wraps around the front of the cylinder where the wire goes into the cylinder.

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The finished side frames ready for paint. At 44mm long the wire was cut to fit on the side frame without the need for any glue.

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:D
 
Does anyone know of a Microscale Decal sheet that has decals on it for "Sand" filling locations. I ordered Microscale sheet number 87-48 which is EMD Data but to my surprise this is about the only thing that is not on this sheet.

I sure wish Microscale had a zoom feature on their website because it is almost impossible to see what is really on the sheet when looking at their website.
 
NWCanuck said:
Does anyone know of a Microscale Decal sheet that has decals on it for "Sand" filling locations. I ordered Microscale sheet number 87-48 which is EMD Data but to my surprise this is about the only thing that is not on this sheet.

I sure wish Microscale had a zoom feature on their website because it is almost impossible to see what is really on the sheet when looking at their website.
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brad, i've got you covered. be in the mail tomorrow.
 
wheeler1963 said:
brad, i've got you covered. be in the mail tomorrow.
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That sounds great Jerome, the problem is that I need eight of them. Two for the front and two for the back and I have two units to do. I can't have you send me that many.:eek:

By the way, did you ever get the package I sent you? Just want to make sure you got it.
 
Brad, got 4 small sheets headed your way. Each sheet has 20 FUEL and 20 SAND in white lettering. I used to put them on all of my A&P blue fleet and could never find enough of them on decal sheets. So I special ordered a bunch from Rail Graphics a couple of years ago.
 
Jerome just wondering if you thin your Testors Gloss Coat with Testors Thinner or do you just use a good quality Lacquer thinner?

Like I said before I find that almost all "Polly Scale" acrylic based paints seem to dry very flat. Does anyone else using Polly Scale find that this is the case? I used Testors Gloss coat thinned with a high quality automotive grade lacquer thinner using the ratios off of the back of the Testors Gloss Coat bottle. I find that the Testors Gloss over Polly Scale paint does not dry like "glass" or what I would think in very glossy.

I have put three coats of Gloss over my shells and have started to lay the decals on. The photo below shows the decals on the gloss coat. There are still more decals to go on but I just wanted to post some progress so far.

My concern is that I can see the decal film on the gloss coat and I would have thought it would have blended in more than this. I can't imagine another coat of gloss over this will conceal the decal all the way. Or will the Dull coat take care of this indifference in "sheen"? I have come too far to mess this one up.:eek:

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Just a cab shot, still need to paint the seats and panels.

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Brad, Yes, the only thing I use when mixing Testors Dull or Gloss is Testors Lacquer thinner and brush cleaner. I mix it 70% dull/gloss, 30% thinner. Never had any trouble with that, so I stick with what I know.

You've got a problem there, I can see it just by the pictures. You've got what is called "ghosting". Your gloss-coat was not smooth enough and now you have air space showing behind the decals. Once decals are applied to gloss, they should actually show a bit darker than the surrounding paint. This pictures shows you how glossy a black unit should be before you put on decals.

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I've done this in the past myself. You've got 2 ways to go as far as I know.

1. Try slicing thin lines in the decals and reapply lots of decal set. (Not always successful).

2. Soak the unit in warm water and remove the decals you've already applied. Re-gloss it and start over.

I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but it's the only ways I know of to fix what you have there.
 
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As for painting the gauges, handles, etc. on the control stand in the cab, I'd suggest Sharpie fine tip markers. That's what i use.
 
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