Double Crossover

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cncproadwarrior

cncproadwarrior

North of the 49th
I want to include a double crossover on my 12x8 HO layout. A few questions:

1- I've heard of Shinohara and FastTracks. Any others?

2- Is there one type I should absolutely get or one I should absolutely stay away from?

3- I will be running quite a few SD40 and SD40-2's. Should I go with a no 6 or 8 or will either one do?

Thanks.;)
 
Any commercial turnout will have some flaws. With FastTracks you are doing your own work and you have a certain amout of fleixibility with what you can do--plus you are in control of quality.

With your small road engines either 6 or 8 will work, but 8 will look better and take up more space.
 
If you want an actual double crossover, not a double slip switch, Shinohara or Fast Tracks are about your only optins in HO. Shinohara only makes them in code 100 or code 70 so, if you're using code 83, FastTracks is your remaining choice. The equivalent switch radius is for the Shinohara crossovers is #4 in code 100 and #6 in code 70. A #4 crossover is really too sharp for six axle power at road speed. I would go with a FastTracks jig and make one that fits your space and track code. You can make it as big as your real estate allows and get the longest diverging routes. The few double crossovers you see on prototype railroads are usually in yards but those on mainlines are usually meant to allow trains to operate at normal track speeds through them.
 


Here's a photo of a Shinohara code 100 double crossover. It's the most usefull switch on my layout. It's a great switch.

NYC_George
 
UP2CSX said:
If you want an actual double crossover, not a double slip switch, Shinohara or Fast Tracks are about your only optins in HO. Shinohara only makes them in code 100 or code 70 so, if you're using code 83, FastTracks is your remaining choice. The equivalent switch radius is for the Shinohara crossovers is #4 in code 100 and #6 in code 70. A #4 crossover is really too sharp for six axle power at road speed. I would go with a FastTracks jig and make one that fits your space and track code. You can make it as big as your real estate allows and get the longest diverging routes. The few double crossovers you see on prototype railroads are usually in yards but those on mainlines are usually meant to allow trains to operate at normal track speeds through them.
Click to expand...

Shinohara makes or made code 83. http://cgi.ebay.com/HO-DOUBLE-CROSS...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
 
Thanks.

I can only find #6. Don't think they make a #8, at least not in code 100.:cool:

I understand that wiring these is a nightmare. Anyone have a wiring diagram/instructions?:confused:
 
Only make a NO# 6

I don't think take make a 8. I've had no trouble with any engines or passengers cars crossing over the switches. You will have to paint the frogs though otherwise they will cause a short. If you watch my video on youtube you'll see the switch in action.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsXBHWJsbzg

NYC_George
 
Bernie, I've never seen a #8 Shonohara, probably because it would be so huge. There's a pretty good illustration about how to wire a double crossover at http://www.dixiemtn.com/. You're right, they are complicated to wire. :)

Mike, Shinohara did make a code 83 but hasn't made it for over a year. They are weird company. They seem to make things in batches once every three years or so and then they don't make new batches until three years later, no matter what sold out.
 
There are a couple people selling FasTrack switches on Ebay. I think the double crossovers are going for something like $120, though. I think the kit from FasTracks will cost you about $100 more, and most of their kits come w/ enough material to make more than one switch (5 for most I have looked at).

I understand that you probably only need one of these, but I believe the double crossover layout jig can be used to also make standard switches. So, with the one jig, you have the option of making a single crossover, double crossover, left hand turnout, or right hand turnout. They would all be of one #, though. ie the #8 double crossover could be used to make #8 turnouts.

Buy it, make the turnouts you need, then sell it off to the next guy. Save yourself a lot of $ in the long run.

Even though it is my advice, I have been delaying taking my own advice and buying one of these kits. :o
 


Here's one. Code 83, #8. No jigs or fixtures used, but I drew it up with a CAD progam, then printed it out fullsized and laid out the rails directly on the paper, then took it all up again and relaid it on site.

The electrical plan did take some thought.

dblxovermb5.jpg
 
Yes I've been thinking about buying the FastTracks kit. Their quality looks second to none and building them yourself comes to about the same price as buying Peco or Shinohara.

I've printed out their free turnout and track templates and will be photocopying them and using them as a template for my whole railroad. Then I'll see what actual number I need for most of my turnouts. I'm thinking I'll probably go with the number 6 template and then maybe buy the non-6 turnouts that I need. We'll see.

PS that is very cool JohnP.
 
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Very nice job handlaying that double crossover, John. I did one in my life, for the club I was in, and I'd rather smash a few fingers flat with a mallet than do that again. I did it off a hand drawn template made by one of our drafters. Took about two weeks of evenings to make and the wiring was a nightmare. I decided I could live with staggered crossovers after that. :)
 
Crossover insulation

The Walther’s double crossovers are all set to go although you might have to paint the insulated joints on the crossover itself extending the insulation a little. You have to do this because some rolling stock wheels will touch both the + and – at the same time when crossing over causing a short. The crossover that John built looks fantastic but I would have to wonder about there being no insulation that I can see preventing shorts from happening. I would have to see how it’s wired to prevent this. You could probably do this using the internal switches of a tortoise switch machine if you use them other wise I don’t know.

NYC_George
 
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