Ditch light instalation


J

julienjj

Noodle is good
I got everything i need to start working on my new ditch light
-1K resistor, 1/4 amps
-Richmond control surface mount leds
- wire
-acrylic glue

The patient is a CN c44-9w, i was wondering, should i rip off the low ditch light and glue them on the anti-climber ? cause i dont think i ever saw a cn unit with the low ditch light

the ditch light are actually a small cube with a fake grey light, should i dremel out the fake light and glue on the LED ?

and finally... should i put a drop of acrylic glue over the led to make a kind of protection ?

I have a lot of questions because i want to be really really really really well documented to avoid any mistake:cool:
 
Not sure if you have gotten a response yet, but I can tell you by my experiences that you should NEVER compromise realism for functionality. In other words, if CN engines don't have low mounted ditchlights, then look into the proper part for the job. I have 3 BNSF dash 9's that have the same ditchlight housings mounted below. One actually has this type of ditchlights in real life. I decided to drill through the original fake plastic housing that athearn has in its place, and it turned out to be more of a pain in the butt doing it this way than getting the part from detailswest (or details associates..can't remember) Also, if you do go the route of mounting them below (which isn't MY preference, but looks pretty good anyways) you could do it as I did here:

1. CAREFULLY remove (with a knife) or drill through (with a pin vise) the plastic ditchlight housing.

*2.a. If you have the better looking replacement part, drill through where the real bulb would be and make sure the hole is big enough that the led or regular bulb will slide through easily. This step is important if you ever need to change the light bulb if it ever blows.

*2.b. If you decide to just use the Athearn low mounted housing, drill it the same way as before. Be careful as the glue holding the housing on there will weaken significantly after you drill though!

3. The bulbs you probably plan to use should be good to double as the lens, so no acrylic should be needed.

4. Lastly, accidents do happen, and when they do (blow a bulb by letting it contact the tracks when they are powered...Yep, that happened!) then by making the holes in ANY ditchlight setup slightly wider than the bulb will alllow you to push them through the backside easily.

You can mount ditchlights on top of the pilot the same exact way. Detailswest and Details associates makes the parts for that setup too! You are already starting out good by planning out your moves. Always check, double check, and triple check your area before you cut ANYTHING. I hope that helps! Good luck!

-Rich
 
I have done plenty of different types of ditchlights using surface mount LEDs.

Here are some examples.

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Many Thanks for the infos, but i would like to see how you passed the wirring inside the loco.

Im going to order the lights this week
 
MGWSY, those are amazing. :)

If you have limited space for the wiring, I've found that thin enameled magnet wire (standard part at Radioshack etc) works great for this kind of thing. 30 awg wire is small enough to pass for power lines in N, and usually small enough to fit anywhere. Plus, it's enamel coated, so no need to strip insulation.
 
I use #36 Self Fluxing Magnet Wire. its the same as enamel coated wire but when you touch the wire with some hot solder it tins it very easily making soldering much easier. I have used magnet wire in the past that you literally had to scrape the enamel off with a sharp Xacto knife as it was the only way to remove it.

Here are some pictures of wiring inside a loco.

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MGWSY said:
I have done plenty of different types of ditchlights using surface mount LEDs.

Here are some examples.

DSC02038.png


DSC02039.png
]

DSC02101.png


DSC02100.png


DSC02096.png


DSC02094.png


SD26DitchlightsF.png


SD26DitchlightsP.png


SD26DitchlightsW.png


DSC06382.png


DSC06385.png
Click to expand...

Hey mark! Is that a walther's or life-like EMD F40PH? If you don't mind me asking. Because I have 12 F40PH's and 8 of them im goin to make ditch lights for them
 
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O ok is it from the 1998 run's or newer because I have a 1998 run of amtrak road number 300 and I have a metrolink road number 840 im not sure what year it was made due to I won it on ebay
 
Mark, I am just wondering what brand of lights or LEDs you are using along with what brand or manufacturer of ditch lights? Are these just Details West pewter drilled out for the lights? Thanks:D
 
Habbyguy said:
Can you tell me where you live so I can come a steal this. :D
I have looked everywhere and can't find any.
Click to expand...

I live in MA so come on down ,lol But if you want that loco then you will have to go to AZ as thats where that unit resides, lol.
 
NWCanuck said:
Mark, I am just wondering what brand of lights or LEDs you are using along with what brand or manufacturer of ditch lights? Are these just Details West pewter drilled out for the lights? Thanks:D
Click to expand...

Those are actually white LEDs painted with Tamiya Clear Orange but since then I have changed my method by using Golden White 0603 SMD LEDs and DW Lenses with DA Ditch Light castings. Looks much better then before.
 
Richmond Controls makes surface mount LEDs that will fit in the castings once you drill them out. Ulrich models sells the leds with wires already attached if you're sloppy at soldering like me.

It's just that I keep destroying the castings because I suck at using tools in general. (fat shaky hands :D )
 
Just take it easy and start small, like an #76 drill and work your way up slowly a couple sizes at a time as there is no rush. The other evening I drilled out 52 castings and inserted Lenses. Thats enough for 13 locos, next will be the wiring of Surface Mount LEDs and gluing them in the housings.
 
MGWSY said:
Those are actually white LEDs painted with Tamiya Clear Orange but since then I have changed my method by using Golden White 0603 SMD LEDs and DW Lenses with DA Ditch Light castings. Looks much better then before.
Click to expand...

Please forgive my ignorance I may need a little more hand holding than this.:eek:

I am wondering if you could tell me what the actual part numbers are for these items. I think I got most of the acronyms, DW (Details West) DA (Detail Associates) but I am not sure what SMD LEDs are? I am also wondering what brand magnet wire you are using? When gluing the lenses into the housing are you using CA or doesn't that cause the clear plastic to haze?

Thanks again for the info!
 
NWCanuck said:
Please forgive my ignorance I may need a little more hand holding than this.:eek:

I am wondering if you could tell me what the actual part numbers are for these items. I think I got most of the acronyms, DW (Details West) DA (Detail Associates) but I am not sure what SMD LEDs are? I am also wondering what brand magnet wire you are using? When gluing the lenses into the housing are you using CA or doesn't that cause the clear plastic to haze?

Thanks again for the info!
Click to expand...

What I use is any of the Detail Associates Ditch Light Castings depending on the prototype installation. I use Details West LN-341 Lenses Which look like a mushroom with the main lens and a mounting pin. I assemble and paint the Ditch Light Housings and drill all the way through for the mounting pin size. Then from the front A countersink the hole to the Lens size about .015" deep. Then I do the same from the rear to fit the LED which varies on what Surface Mount LED you use. Then I press the lens in from the front and glue the led from the rear using Microscale Kristal Klear and let it set overnight, the next day I paint the backs of the housings to cover any light leakage and they are ready to install. As for Magnet wire I use Self Fluxing #38 ga. Magnet Wire I bought on EBay.
 
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