Decal issues?

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jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
So, I've been toying with the Testors decals, and I'm getting some major issues. I thought it was that I didn't let the ink dry. I printed a new sheet today, and it had over 3 hours to dry before I tried the Testors decal set. Now the ink is bleeding out. :eek: I dunno whats going wrong, it seems like the ink isn't setting at all, and just resting on top of the film.

I'm using a Lexmark Z705 printer, and starting to get leery of the printer, think it might be the problem? :rolleyes:

I guess I'll have to try the new printer I'm picking up Thursday (all in one deal-o...).
 

hminky

Member
I bought a cheap Lexmark All-in-one X3350 at Walmart for printing color decals. It is for "photo printing" and the ink seems to be more waterproof than normal ink jet ink. If you print on clear decal paper the decals will be translucent and lack the white part of the image. It prints well on the Testors paper.

Harold
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Jeff:
I printed a new sheet today, and it had over 3 hours to dry before I tried the Testors decal set.
It seems the decal set is part of the problem, or maybe the ink isn't setting. I'm going to pick up an all in one jobber tonight.
 

sushob

Entrepreneurial Teen
Jeff:
It seems the decal set is part of the problem, or maybe the ink isn't setting. I'm going to pick up an all in one jobber tonight.
I didn't have any problems with the Testors kit and my older Dell (Lexmark) inkjet. I have a color laser though now...
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Can't be an age issue for the ink either, its about 2 months old only! I figure if the new printed does the same, I'll call Testor's and ask what I'm doing wrong.
 
Testors Decal Bonder

I thought it was that I didn't let the ink dry. I printed a new sheet today, and it had over 3 hours to dry before I tried the Testors decal set. Now the ink is bleeding out. :eek: I dunno whats going wrong, it seems like the ink isn't setting at all, and just resting on top of the film.
Are you aware that you need to spray your decal sheet with Testors Decal Bonder after printing it on your PC, prior to actually using the decals (and applying Testors Decal Set)? :confused:
 
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sushob

Entrepreneurial Teen
Are you aware that you need to spray your decal sheet with Testors Decal Bonder after printing it on your PC, prior to actually using the decals (and applying Testors Decal Set)? :confused:
I believe he was referring to the 'bonder' spray can when he said 'decal set,' not something like Solvaset. It sounds like the 'bonder' is actually what is causing the decals to run.

I don't know how well it could work, but you could try shooting it with dull coat instead of the dedicated bonder. I didn't have any trouble with the bonder in my kit, but maybe you got a bad batch...
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Testors says not to use the dull coat, the bonder/"set" stuff soaks into the film to make the ink hold, but it doesn't seem to do it, just cause it to bleed.
 
Testors says not to use the dull coat, the bonder/"set" stuff soaks into the film to make the ink hold, but it doesn't seem to do it, just cause it to bleed.
It would really be a big mistake if Testors developed this kit just to find out that certain inks don't bond! I was going to order one of these kits, but now, I don't know... :confused:
 
Testors Decal System

Now the ink is bleeding out. :eek: I dunno whats going wrong, it seems like the ink isn't setting at all, and just resting on top of the film. I guess I'll have to try the new printer I'm picking up Thursday (all in one deal-o...).
Did you solve the problem - was the printer the culprit? :confused:
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Oh shoot, I haven't gotten around to it yet. I'm looking for a crisp shot of the "three point safety system" & "Remote Control Locomotive" labels, to test with a white sheet on the new printer, I don't want to waste my last clear sheet!
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
So I made a few test runs. Testors says to use normal settings. Due to the fine scale lettering, I used "Maximum DPI" which gives me 1200dpi, it did good. I have not yet use the bonder, I'll do that tomorrow. I also made a run ad 600dpi, and its already cracked, and the text is iffy. So, Maximum DPI, or photo mode is the better choice, we'll see about the bonder issue later.

Oh, here's a sample copy of the decals I made.

The RCL images may be a tad wide, and don't print very clear. The ATEX decals turned out good, besides the "Tree Expert Co./Railroad Division" part. The TIPZ decals are for a few repainted 45' dry vans I have. Then there's the Cargill, & NREX decals (for NREX 745...) and some TTEX Long Runner decals (testing it, I think I just need to track the microscale ones).
 
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Anxious for word about the bonder...

So I made a few test runs. Testors says to use normal settings. Due to the fine scale lettering, I used "Maximum DPI" which gives me 1200dpi, it did good. I have not yet use the bonder, I'll do that tomorrow.
Your decals look GREAT! I'm really anxious to hear if the bonder makes them run or not... :confused:
 

IronBeltKen

Lazy Daydreamer
Could Epson DuraBrite ink make a difference?

Your decals look GREAT! I'm really anxious to hear if the bonder makes them run or not... :confused:
I use an Epson Stylus C66 ($79 model) inkjet. It uses Epson 'DuraBrite' color inks, which they claim won't run if you get them wet. Not sure about that part, but I can tell you they don't run under Testors Decal Bonder - at least they haven't yet, anyway!
 

sushob

Entrepreneurial Teen
If you're printing out signs, couldn't you just print them directly onto thin styrene and skip the decal step altogether? I haven't tried it yet, but I have some .010" sheets of white styrene I'm planning to try it on eventually. I don't know how well the ink would stick, but it might work alright with a laser.
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
If you're printing out signs, couldn't you just print them directly onto thin styrene and skip the decal step altogether? I haven't tried it yet, but I have some .010" sheets of white styrene I'm planning to try it on eventually. I don't know how well the ink would stick, but it might work alright with a laser.
Interesting idea there! Never thought of that. I made the signs as a test. The inkjet is iffy down at that detail level, I'd think a screen printer might work much better then the inkjet.

The RCL & signs turned out so-so... After I let the bonder set, I'll scan the finished copies so you all can see what it does.
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Cripes, I think I'll try another brand, and use the last few with Dullcote. I just about "destroyed" half the "good" decals on the 1200DPI sheet. It seems like only the black ones bleed, and the reds & blues bleed out of them. I tried to scan it but it doesn't show the bleeding on the image well, but here it is anyways:
View attachment 4768

The TTEX, NREX, ATEX0006, Asplundh, smaller ATEX 0006 & Cargill/305 all bled out. I can still use the TTEX ones (since I have to cut them anyways), the RCL (if they fit well), the signs, and TIPZ decals. The ATEX stuff is "ruined". I'll send the proof to Rail Graphics sometime soon.
 
I just received my kit, and while I haven't printed anything yet, I would like to say that the software included in the package is pretty much useless. It only allows you to work with graphics that are included on the CD, and they're all geared toward other hobbies. You have to purchase the upgraded software to be able to import your own graphics.

So, I dumped Testors software and will use MS Word instead. I set up a 5.5" x 8.5 inch "page", which matches the decal paper. Then, I simply inserted each graphic and resized at will. If you want text, use a paint program to insert text into a graphic object and proceed as if it was a picture!
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Well the ink think becomes an issue, still. HOWEVER, I re-coated (5th coat now) on the original print, and its working good. All three of the white sheets bled & the 2nd of the two clear I used bled. I thought it might work with many very fine coats, it coats and seals better but still bled out on the 2nd pass, as with every other time.

So basically, my first print was the only good one, and I'm 1 for 5. I have Monday off, so I'll call Trestors then and question it.

As for making them, I used 24 bit Bitmap, in paint, then printed from IRfanview. I just set the "attributes" in paint to 5x8.
 




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