I'm about to pick up my first DCC loco (Rapido M-420 w/sound) but intend to run it on my DC track for a few months until going full DCC control. I have an MRC 1440 that runs perfectly to spec as far as voltages and throttle. Rapido says their loco is DC/DCC capable. I realize I won't have full control over the loco's features while running DC, but is there anything to keep in mind as far as running it on DC, or can I just run it the same as my old DC unit without worrying about causing it any harm?
DCC on DC
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Smudge617
Well-Known Member
On the whole, it's not recommended, and to save yourself from any problems, I would suggest you remove the decoder and fit a blanking plate to make it wholly a DC locomotive till you have your DCC system in place. I don't know of anyone who runs DCC locomotives on DC.
Once you take the plunge, you will never go back. I was resistant also, but now am thoroughly hooked in the dcc world. Running multiple locos at different speeds, in opposite directions has allowed for the model railroading experience I had only dreamed of in my youth. Almost every dc only locomotive can be converted to dcc sound with a little training, a decent soldering machine and a decent continuity tester. Most of my steamers are converted AHM Rivarossi from the late 60’s or early 70’s and many of my diesels are Proto 2000’s which are affordable and fairly easy to convert. This hobby can be very addicting.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Yeah, but the OP is talking about running a DCC loco on a DC setup for months, not a couple of hours, that's likely to cause some problems, isn't it, simpler to use a blanking plate and know you're going to have problem-free running?
RhB Michael
RhB Lokführer
I would never mix systems no matter how safe they claim it is.
I assume that would disable all features and it would operate the motor only?
Like others have said, I do not run my dcc locos on dc but I do have a dc transformer on my layout. It is behind a dpdt switch and I keep the transformer unplugged the majority of the time. When I need to run a dc loco, usually for testing before adding a decoder, I make sure my other locos are all behind switches which are turned off. I check this carefully. Then I plug in the dc transformer and throw the dpdt switch to activate the dc power. I use this only for testing purposes and do not connect any cars or run any ops. Then, when finished with dc, I reverse the above steps and am back to dcc power. I do not condone mixing dcc and dc locos at any time. This will be a recipe for disaster no matter what the manufacturers state.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
It may operate directional lights, but unfortunately I doubt anything else, certainly no sounds.
But it's your loco so it's your risk, if you want to run it on DC and everything is fine, great, but if it damages the decoder, you're the one having to go buy a new one
Agree 100%. You're putting unnecessary stress on the motor and electronics.
A test run is ok. Full time use could be an expensive experiment.
Your engine won't even start moving until you are at least half throttle and even at full throttle it won't be that much better.
You can always buy a DC version and add the DCC decoder later.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
The OP has already bought the loco, which is why I'm suggesting replacing the decoder with a blanking plate till he has his DCC system up and running.
J.Albert
Well-Known Member
OP:
If you're paying Rapido's prices, I wouldn't recommend modifying anything inside a brand-new unit so as to [supposedly] make it run better on DC. Just not a good idea.
Having said that, the dcc equipped model WILL run on DC.
However, be aware that it won't run as "satisfyingly" as it would on actual dcc.
I don't think it will even move until track voltage is up around 7 volts, and performance may not be "as desired".
Really... if you want dcc... the GO dcc... and leave DC behind.
If you're paying Rapido's prices, I wouldn't recommend modifying anything inside a brand-new unit so as to [supposedly] make it run better on DC. Just not a good idea.
Having said that, the dcc equipped model WILL run on DC.
However, be aware that it won't run as "satisfyingly" as it would on actual dcc.
I don't think it will even move until track voltage is up around 7 volts, and performance may not be "as desired".
Really... if you want dcc... the GO dcc... and leave DC behind.
I'm still setting up an inherited DC 4x8 layout from the 80's and intend to switch over to DCC in the near future. For now, I just wanted to tune up the old equipment (Kadee couplers/steel wheels), and fine tune the existing track/powered switches, as well as cleaning up/lubing my old GP 50 (DC) from the 80's. At the same time, I'm planning for the future, hence the DCC M-420 which was priced way under market value (an offer I couldn't pass up). While I obviously intend to run DCC in the near future, I was hoping to run it on the DC layout on a limited basis rather than just looking at it in the box and drooling. It seems opinions are split 50/50 whether to attempt it or not. Some say they've done it for years with no issues while others say it's like looking Methuselah in the eyes.
Yes, and I just replaced the old non-functioning toy quality Rail Power controller with a Tech 2 1440 transitorized controller. Apparently the MRC 1300 series transformers caused many issues with DCC loco's.
Selector
Well-Known Member
Modern decoders since about 2005 have all been 'dual mode' so that they could claim that they comply with NMRA specifications for DCC. As long as they are in factory default settings, or if the owner has ensured CV29 is in the correct setting (usually a value of 34), the decoder will switch its method of operation according to the quality of the voltage and signal imbedded...if there is one. If it detects only DC, it will still allow the locomotive to light up, make a whistle and bell sound, and reverse direction. Beyond that, it won't have the finer adjustments and features, such a inertia and momentum (CVs 2 and 4 respectively), nor can you adjust individual sounds.
All NMRA compliant decoders should make neutral sounds once they receive about 6 volts to the rails, and from there the locomotive will begin to move as voltage is increased. The reverse switch on the controller should allow bell and whistle function...but always read the manuals for the devices you're controlling to be sure. That means the decoder's manual, your controller's manual, and the locomotive's manual as supplied by the importer.
It comes with Loksound 5 21 pin, and Loksound pretty much says the same thing. That it can operate on DC. It won't be a long term thing and i will use it sparingly for a few months until converting over to full DCC.
